The New Yorker's Annual Food Issue Is Out
The November 22 issue of The New Yorker is the special food issue. Here is a peek at a few of the articles. Note: you need a subscription to read most of them online.
Burger Queen: Lauren Collins writes about chef April Bloomfield's gastropub revolution. "Copious is a word I like to use when buttering my potatoes,' Bloomfield says. But in the kitchen she is as composed as her cooking is brazen."
No Daily Specials: Calvin Trillin reports on Mosca's restaurant in Louisiana. "From Highway 90, Mosca's looks roughly the same as it did when it opened in 1946--a small white clapboard building on a deserted stretch of a double-lane highway thirty or forty minutes from the center of New Orleans."
Down Under: Jane Kramer praises root vegetables. "Roots were scary, the cautionary stuff of fairy tales and folklore. Childhood habits of mind can be hard to break. The writer cooked with all manner of root vegetables--carrots, potatoes, and also parsnips, rutabagas, turnips, and sweet potatoes--for thirty years before she thought of them as a family or even put the words 'root' and 'vegetable' together."
Magical Dinners: Chang-rae Lee recalls Thanksgiving in 1972 with his sister at the Harbor House apartments ("red brick, low-rise, shot through with blacks and Puerto Ricans"), who are the only members of the family speaking English, are bickering over what parts of the turkey might be best.
The First Kitchen: Lauren Collins writes about food served at the White House during Franklin Roosevelt's presidency. "Eleanor Roosevelt had been planning the White House meals since well before the Inauguration, commissioning nutritious, low-cost menus from the home-economics faculty at Cornell, in the hope of making the White House a demonstration project for conscientious cookery during the Depression."
Nature's Spoils: Burkhard Bilger profiles Sandor Katz and the underground pickling movement. "A self-avowed 'fermentation fetishist,' Katz travels around the country giving lectures and demonstrations, spreading the gospel of sauerkraut, dill pickles, and all foods transformed and ennobled by bacteria."