[Photographs: Dreamfarm.com]

Mashed potatoes are one of those side dishes that we eat—and crave—year round, but demand perfection from on Thanksgiving. So what makes the perfect mashed potatoes? That depends on who you ask. And what makes the perfect potato masher is clearly dependent upon that answer.

For me, the perfect mashed potatoes are silky smooth—they sculpt into clean ribbons when you run your fork through them and smoosh effortlessly against the roof of your mouth. Last year's potato masher lent itself well to chunkier mashed potatoes, allowing square-shaped chunks through its dime-sized holes. This year, I turned my attention to a tool that seemed more poised for my kind of taters: the Smood ($19.95, amazon.com). Silly name aside (mindless computer games circa 2000, anyone?), the Australian design is cropping up at stores like Williams-Sonoma and Crate and Barrel, and its gaining popularity only seemed gimmicky until I gave it its first whirl.

The Snood's functionality relies on its spring base, whose silicone rim traps veggies firmly in its grip, be it potatoes or avocados or anything in between. It's somewhat easier to use that the Joseph Joseph model, yielding creamy results unlike any I've ever come across. It's not an instant effect—you do need to go through the mix three or four times to really eliminate lumps—but it's remarkable how effortless it is to get such smooth spuds. Chalk it up to the tightly coiled spring, which only lets thin ribbons of potato pass through. Prefer some lumps? Press your potatoes once or twice and a few will remain.

What's your preference: silky or chunky?