I was hanging out with Mark Miller, founding chef of Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and author of The Great Chile Book, at a big chefs conference here in Mexico City not too long ago. At some point, a few of us decided to play hookie and go explore Coyoacán. So, along with Ruth Alegria, the International Association of Culinary Professionals country coordinator for Mexico, and Monica Solis, a talented Mexican chef, we headed out.
Coyoacán is a quaint, peaceful neighborhood in the south of the city. Often billed as a sort of Mexican Greenwich Village, it has the feel of a small, vibrant town— probably because for most of its history, it was.