Kenji hasn't technically done a Food Lab column on chili cheese fries, but he has written about all the parts separately: thin and crispy fries, chili, and cheese sauce. SE'r Becca Porter took it upon herself to pile them all together and create the fantasy Food Lab chili cheese fries. "The fries once again turned out so perfect (better than McDonald's!!) that it was almost a shame to cover them in chili and cheese, but man it is a glorious combination." We salute you, Becca.