Standard grill grates are designed to be spread out, with space between them providing direct exposure to intense heat so that you get the charred, caramelized, slightly smoky taste of perfectly grilled food. Why, then, would you ever need cookware that stands between you and your grill?

While open grates are fine for bigger items, grilling small or delicate foods like seafood or vegetables can require acrobatics to prevent things falling into the fire. That's where grill cookware comes in. But can it give you the same results as grilling directly on the grates? To find out, America's Test Kitchen fired up the grill using nine products. The bottom line: A grill pan is a valuable accessory—as long as it's the right design and material. Watch the video review above for information about the winner, or read the full comparison on AmericasTestKitchen.com (free registration required).

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