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[Photographs: Citizen Taco]

FoodHeads

616 West 34th Street, Austin TX 78705 (map); 512-420-8400; foodheads.com

A good lunch is hard to find, a good lunch restaurant even harder, where the menu is so vast and even-keeled that only a fool would insist on maintaining a "usual." Amid the current profusion of food carts and eateries that specialize in one or two items, FoodHeads boasts a long list of sandwiches that verge on the artisanal—think grilled squash and fresh mozzarella with cilantro pesto and blackberry balsamic vinaigrette—without being pretentious.

Eight-plus years of wheat-intolerance have left me mostly undesirous of glutinous creations, but the sight of a sandwich at FoodHeads often sets off pangs of lust. Fortunately they have more than just sandwiches, including superlative soups, salads, and a number of daily specials. FoodHeads also happens to serve the best fish tacos in Austin, which I confess to ordering more often than not. Wrapped in two toasted corn tortillas, the lightly-seasoned grilled tilapia filets have a firm but flaky texture and a whole lot of flavor. Then come the fixings: fresh cabbage, tomatoes, white onion, avocado, cilantro, blended homemade pico de gallo, and a side of creamy carrot and cabbage slaw.

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Your two-taco order will be gone before you know it, at which point I recommend one of FoodHeads' outstanding soups. The chicken tortilla is one of the best in town (ordering the small size would be torture) and I love their stellar cold concoctions like watermelon gazpacho and chilled cucumber mango.

Located in a converted house north of the UT campus, FoodHeads offers ample indoor and outdoor seating with mismatched tables and chairs that make it feel like the large living room it once was. If they didn't close their doors at 4 p.m., the crowd of devoted regulars would probably stay here all night.

FoodHeads

FoodHeads

616 W 34th St btw Guadalupe St & King St Austin TX 78705 5124208400

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