Michael Kornick, executive chef of MK and now part-owner of DMK Burger Bar, has always had a way with fries. Though it's no indication of the quality of my last meal at MK four years ago, which I remember as generally excellent, the only course I really remember was the cup of frites with truffle cream.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago when, to my delight, I was able to score the same quality frites and truffle cream ($3/small, $5/large) at his burger bar à la carte, without having to drop my what might otherwise be my two-year-old's college savings on dinner. The fries, which were skin on, irregular, and well salted, were worthy of the reputation they've gained over the years.
What, was especially surprising, though were the sweet potato fries ($2/small, $4/large), whose potential cloyingness was tempered by a beautiful lemon Tabasco aoli. Most sweet potato fries I've come across have been more limp than Verbal Kint in the movie The Usual Suspects. These were sharp and crispy, and puffy and soft inside.
My previous favorite sweet potato fry came courtesy of fRedhots and Fries, but I think the DMK Burger version is the new Chicago champion.