Taste Test: Finding the Best Apples for Baking

It's astounding these days the number of apples you can find at a market. No longer does the Red Delicious—which I remember as the quintessential lunchroom apple—hold the only place in the supermarket aisle. Pippin, Jonagold, Golden Noble, Winesap, Pink Lady, Schmidtberger Reinette—every name makes my mouth water with anticipation.
It used to be you bought a bag of Granny Smith apples when you wanted to bake, and you added enough sugar to counteract their tartness. But now which apples are the best for baking pie?
Certainly, not all of them are good for that purpose. There are many great eating apples, whether tart, sweet, mild, or fragrant. But would the same apples I love to eat as I'm walking home from the market perform well under a pastry shell? Check out the results of my taste test after the jump.
Taste Test Method
For an apple to succeed, it needs to hold its shape after cooking—just enough to remain un-mushy, but still melt in the mouth. It also must have a balance of tart and sweet, a complex yet bright taste, and most importantly, maintain a good "appley" flavor.
I tested a variety of cultivars available at my local Whole Foods, all organic, some familiar types and others more unusual. I bought about 3/4 a pound of each variety—two to three apples—then peeled, cored, and chopped them into 1 1/2-inch chunks. Each batch was tossed with 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of flour, and 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, typical ingredients for a pie filling. However, no other seasoning was used to let the full flavor of the apple stay prominent.

The apple chunks were then pressed snugly into a medium-sized ramekin and topped with a round of pastry, which holds much of the moisture in and is just how the apples would cook were they in a real apple pie. I slit the top of the pastry with a knife to allow some steam to escape. I decided to use frozen pastry from Trader Joe's, which comes in discs rather than aluminum pie tins. This allowed me to cut them to size and use them for tops. But most importantly, the Trader Joe's pastry is made with real butter and, I'll admit, is delicious.

Each "pie" was cooked at 375°F for 35 minutes. Once all of them were cooked and transferred to bowls awaiting tasting, I warmed them briefly in a low oven to equal temperatures.
After baking, I rated each batch for texture, tartness/sweetness, flavor, and "appleness." The results were surprising, with three clear winners and three runners-up. Two of them, however, emerged well behind the rest.
The Apples

The apples I tested were as follows: Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Fuji, Jonagold, Russet, Orin, Gala, and Honeycrisp.
Both "Delicious" varieties were chosen because they are so readily available. Fuji and Gala are also quite ubiquitous. Honeycrisp is the apple everyone seems to be raving about these days—my wife and I have gone through close to a bushel just eating them for snacks this year—so I couldn't pass that up. The rest—Jonagold, Orin, and Russet—I picked up because they were at the store. I've recently read up on Russets while researching how to make hard apple cider, and remember one authority claiming they were the absolute best variety of apple on the planet. So yes, I picked up some of those.
These were the results.
The Runners-Up
Golden Delicious
Commonly referred to as a good baking apple, and easily located in your average grocery store.
Before Baking: Soft and sweet, a pleasant taste but a rather mealy texture.
After Baking: Gooey and sweet, the Golden Delicious baked into a pleasant flavor that was relatively apple-y. It completely lost its shape, though, and it wasn't far from being "mushy." But this tasted exactly like apple pie should taste, and I was pretty happy.
Jonagold
A less common variety, which is actually a hybrid of Golden Delicious and the more acidic Jonathon.
Before Baking: Crisp and tart with lots of juiciness.
After Baking: None of the tartness was lost in the baking—sweetness was fleeting at best. It scored a little higher than Golden Delicious on pure apple flavor, and its texture was fabulous, stewy but firm enough. But if you like sweetness, you might look elsewhere.
Honeycrisp
Developed in the early 1970s at the University of Minnesota, this has since become extremely popular. It is perhaps the most prized eating apple.
Before Baking: Honeycrisps live up to their reputation. These were firm and juicy, with a perfect balance of sweet and tart.
After Baking: Complex and subtle, this apple scored huge on the flavor scale. Some nice tart notes. Texture-wise, though, it was less exciting, turning out a bit mushy. A good choice, but its qualities in baking pale to those in eating.
The Winners
Michigan Russett
"Russet" apples are not actually a single variety, but "russeting" happens to some apple culitivars, when the skin becomes somewhat tough and leathery. Because of this "imperfection," they are not as commercially popular, but many consider them to have superior flavor and aroma. With that endorsement, it may surprise you to hear that these apples came in as the cheapest of those selected, a consideration when you're buying enough apples for a pie.
Before Baking: Less than perfectly crisp, the flavor of the flesh was nonetheless marvelous. Apple-y and heady, with an exceptional flavor.
After Baking: The apple flavor only became more superb with baking. Slightly more tart than sweet, but very well-balanced, the texture was also outstanding: not broken down, but gently yielding. For the person with more love of balance than sweetness, who doesn't mind gentle tartness, this is a remarkable baking apple.
Orin
Probably the least common apple that I tried, it is mostly prized as an eating apple. It's sweeter than it is tart, which appeals to some. These particular Orins hailed from Washington state.
Before Baking: Crisp and sweet, that's the name of the game with Orins. True to form, this was a refreshing apple.
After Baking: Sweeter than tart, but still well-balanced: Just as it is for eating, the balance of flavors was spot-on. It scored the highest of all the apples on the "appley" scale and had the same outstanding texture of the russet: firm, yet just soft enough to have relinquished itself to the pie.
Gala
Like the Jonagold, this apple descends from the Golden Delicious variety, this time crossed with Kidd's Orange Red. It is sweet and mild, and extensively cultivated.
Before Baking: Not the crispest of apples, though certainly pleasant, I've bitten into better apples. The flavor was good, though, and quite sweet.
After Baking: Like the Orin, this apple is on the sweeter side, but not overly so. It had a marvelous texture after baking, perhaps the best. It held its form, but melted with one bite. And what's more, it's one of the most readily available varieties year-round.
Skip 'Em
Inevitably, a couple apples just didn't turn out. In both cases, it was mostly a texture issue, and for opposite reasons: While the Red Delicious baked into a mushy, overly-sweet mess, the Fuji was far too firm and didn't create the yielding filling everyone wants in a pie. Perhaps the Fuji would be better sautéed first for awhile so it could cook longer—an experiment for another time. Neither the Red Delicious or the Fuji had an overwhelmingly good apple flavor, either.
Conclusions

What makes a good apple pie apple? The two most important qualities are texture and good apple flavor, which I've learned since consuming more butter, flour, sugar, and apples than a man ought to in a two-day period. All three winners excelled in the texture department and had good honest apple flavor. Some were sweeter, some more tart. But that, to me, is more personal preference.
This experiment could hardly be called conclusive since there are so many more apple varieties to try that (for example, this survey left out Granny Smith apples, which are very tart and supposedly excellent for baking), but I feel that some good work was done nonetheless. If I were to make an apple pie tomorrow, I would go straight back to Russets and Orins, using both in a single pie to bring both the tart and sweet into a single batch (I'm a big believer in hybrid vigor).
But if my options were more limited and I only had one choice, the Gala is a very respectable baking apple. It's available most everywhere and has great texture, flavor, and is fairly priced.
Serious Eaters, what are your favorite baking apples?
About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. After a year in Estonia, he's now living in Chicago.
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52 Comments:
I'm surprised that Gala did so well, I shall have to try that.
Back in the UK I used to use Cox's Orange Pippins (they're apples despite confusingly containing the word "orange" in their name!) for baking, but I haven't seen them here.
Richard @ The Bewildered Brit at 8:06PM on 11/19/09
No Granny Smiths in the lineup? We use them in my family's pies. When I take a pie to share, everyone is pleasantly surprised by what kind of apples we use.
cara_mia at 8:25PM on 11/19/09
I am really surprised at one omission: Northern Spy. Here in Ontario they are considered *the* superior pie apple by most home bakers.... I wait every fall to buy my own bushel to squirrel away. They are ugly, knobbly and not worth eating raw, but are excellent keepers. Are they so difficult to find elsewhere? Or is this what you mean by "russet"?
mcvixen at 8:32PM on 11/19/09
Articles like this make Serious Eats a great website. I love taste-tests, however subjective the results.
I find the variety of apples bewildering, and can now use this piece to help me explore some different possibilities.
Up to now, I have stuck to Granny Smith for my pies, as I like a very tart apple pie. Granny has the right texture, and I balance the sweetness with a little sugar, and adjust the apple flavor by adding apple cider syrup:
www.woodscidermill.com
I make my homemade applesauce with Honeycrisp. They are terrific.
I don't care for the cloying/sweet Golden Delicious. And, as we all know, mealy, awful Red Delicious was bred as horse food. The author could have skipped that one entirely.
Looking forward to trying some new apples after next week. Thanks again for posting this review.
salpico at 8:39PM on 11/19/09
Northern Spies for pies and applesauce. They perfectly fit your description of holding their shape - firm and soft and at the same time, with a balance of tart and sweet and a unique spiciness. I even like to eat them, but know that's not what they're best known for.
Until the Spies come in (mid-October) I like Cortlands for baking.
lemonfair at 9:06PM on 11/19/09
I like Gala a lot for pies but Empires are also really great. The Golden D. makes a superior french apple tart. This is a great taste test, more apples varieties please!
mgnnn at 9:09PM on 11/19/09
We had a Spy tree out back at our cottage; Mom sent home the most wonderful pies and crisps from September until Thanksgiving.
Two more varieties that I hardly ever see at stores anymore, but remember from my youth: Spartan, and Winesap. Both had the firmness required for baking, but had real apple flavour, not the tart simulacrum of Granny Smiths.
KevinB at 9:12PM on 11/19/09
Sometimes, I even get brave and (cough, gasp!) and mix apples in a pie. My current favorite mix, and easy to find are Grannies and Golden Delicious.
Shecooks at 9:48PM on 11/19/09
I always use a combination of apples for pie, usually including Macoun and Cortland, Empire and others, depending on what is available. I slice the harder apples thinner than the others, for even baking. I love Honeycrisp apples for eating out of hand, but they are among the worst apples for pie.
Lippy at 10:57PM on 11/19/09
I know I'm probably the only person in the world who feels this way, but Macintosh will always be my favorite for both eating and cooking. To my taste buds, they are the quintessential apple.
Kerosena at 11:41PM on 11/19/09
I'm a big fan of Empires, but these days I mix Empires with whatever I've got from the CSA! We recently got a bunch of Romes and I think they're better in things such as muffins, rather than pies.
YourDoctrinaire at 12:06AM on 11/20/09
My pies are generally about 1/2 Gala, 1/4 Honeycrisp and 1/4 Granny Smith. Instead of just dumping them in the pie, I lay them in carefully - 2 slices of Gala, 1 slice of Honeycrisp and 1 slice of Gala - wash, rinse, repeat.
critter42 at 12:39AM on 11/20/09
I've always used Golden Delicious, unless there are other apples that need using up. I've used Galas, but I definitely prefer the Goldens. Perhaps it's because my mother (and her mother before her) always used them, and nostalgia and tradition influence my tastes?
Skythe at 1:15AM on 11/20/09
I love using gala apples combined with granny smith.
Ilana Z at 1:23AM on 11/20/09
You guys read my mind. I was seriously just looking for an article like this a couple of days ago. I found that NPR one that's under "Related," but this one certainly makes me happy, since Galas are easy to find (and inexpensive) to get around here! And I do enjoy Galas as raw snacking apples too, so extras will not go to waste.
@Kerosena, Macs are my favorite to eat as raw snacking apples. I don't care if they're not the most crisp apple in the world, because the slight tart perfect taste makes up for it. I don't think I've ever baked with them though, for whatever reason.
cycorider at 1:35AM on 11/20/09
Personally, I hear all this hype about Honeycrisps, but every one that I've bought has been very disappointing. My favorite eating apple of all time is the Jazz apple, but when not in season, a regular old Fuji beats a Honeycrips everytime, if you ask me.
meleyna at 1:38AM on 11/20/09
I'm a Rome person. I swear by Rome Beauty and Red Rome for pies, turnovers and fried apples with pork chops. Luckily, we have an independent year 'round produce market nearby that stocks them during pie season.
I like Paula Red and Cindy Red for baking, too, but they're really hard to find.
betteirene at 2:18AM on 11/20/09
I love SE taste tests. Thanks. I don't make many pies, but I love to eat Fuji apples.
catmistress at 3:21AM on 11/20/09
for my money, gala is the way to go for apple pies--nicely done. most outstanding taste test ever, and that's that.
grace24 at 4:03AM on 11/20/09
I'm a native of upstate NY and lived my first 40 years in the middle of apple country and most of the old-school farm ladies used 20 Ounce apples for baking and applesauce. Macs, Romes and Spies made frequent appearances too, but 20 OZ. ruled.
beersnob at 5:39AM on 11/20/09
Many bakers recommend a mix of apple varieties; I like Grannys for texture and Golden Delicious for flavor.
DrGaellon at 7:12AM on 11/20/09
Honeycrisps are terrible for pies. Their amazing texture is best left raw. They're decent for sauces and stews but given that they're more expensive than other apples, you really shouldn't be cooking them - their texture when raw is unparalleled so just eat them as is!
The best apples for pies are Northern Spy, Stayman Winesap, and Newtown Pippin. I use a combination of the first two - there's something about that Pippin that I just don't like.
My favorite apples are Macouns - they work well in pies, too, but make sure to use small ones (large ones are overgrown and are mealy - Macs are meant to be small) and mix them with something else, like the Northern Spy.
charm city cupcake at 7:53AM on 11/20/09
This is a fabulous post!
@Kerosena, Macs have been in my apple pies for years! We'd go apple picking in Massachusetts every Fall and fill our bushels with Macs and Cortlands, and we'd mix those for our pies. I think there's nothing that signifies Fall to me quite like a crisp Macintosh pulled off a tree and eaten in the orchard. I get teary just to think of it. It's hard to find really crisp Macs down here in Atlanta, because it's not the most popular apple to grow in these southern orchards -- so by the time my grocery store gets them, they are past their crispy peak.
Given the choice, I'd do a mixture of Macs and Cortlands, but I've also enjoyed going the Granny Smith route and upping my sugar just a tad. I love the tartness of the granny and how it holds up in the pie.
juliebugsmama at 8:07AM on 11/20/09
It seems to me you missed some of the classic pie apples: Granny Smith, Winesap, Macintosh, and Jonathons. Also in my opinion you cooked the pies for far too short a time. I have won awards with my apple pies baked fro 1.5 hours at 350.
bemijohm at 8:13AM on 11/20/09
The best part of this article are the comments. It's amazing how different everyone's opinions are about apples, and how strongly they hold onto their apple beliefs!
The interesting thing about apples is that just 100 years ago, you could buy somewhere around 800 types of apples at stores and grocers, whereas today, you really can't find more than 80 types. Most of the heirloom varieties have almost totally disappeared, except for the stray forgotten orchard in someone's back yard. It does make you wonder what kinds of delicious flavors we're missing.
As for what I like, well, I guess it depends on the time of year. Year round, I love nothing more than to eat a lovely Gala. They're usually the cheapest apple in the store, stores easily and is pretty tasty. I love the soft skin. Later in the year, Macs and Cortlands are are top at my list, especially when the local orchard has pick-your-own. Lately I've been eating a lot of Empires, which are really good, sweet and crispy.
I hardly ever make pies, so the only thing I'm looking for in an apple is a pleasant snack.
Jewelsie at 8:28AM on 11/20/09
@Bemijohm, I think that since the pies were actually small tarts instead of full sized pies, it's perfectly logical to only cook them for 35 minutes. Otherwise you're going to over cook them.
Jewelsie at 8:30AM on 11/20/09
Macs and Courtlands are my favorite baking/cooking apple. they bake down, yet somehow hold part of their shape during cooking. Maybe it's my new england upbringing, but they are the only apple I'll be using next week for my pies.
aaronsmom at 9:01AM on 11/20/09
Granny Smith and Braeburns are also good.
ChefR0bert at 9:21AM on 11/20/09
Add me to the group who give affection to Macs and Cortlands--both are what apples are "supposed" to taste like, to my palate: like a great glass of fresh-milled cider! Both are great bakers, though I prefer Cortlands for pie and sauce and MacIntoshes for crisps or simple baked-apples...Yum.
I made a batch of applesauce this past weekend from Macouns, and was pleased with the results--an interesting fresh-sawed wood back note I've never experienced before. Not my fav, but an interesting twist.
BobbieAnne at 9:55AM on 11/20/09
I'm with you Kerosena! I always feel kinda silly admitting that in the baking world cause they're not supposed to be the best baking apple, but I love them and use them for everything.
BrooklynBaker at 9:57AM on 11/20/09
Empires----an improved descendant of the Macintosh-------tart and crisp to eat and great flavor in pies, applesauce whatever. (Although Honeycrisp are still my faves for eating out of hand fresh---for people who don't see them as special, consider the source was it a supermarket (yuck) or fresh off the tree or farmers market, they don't do so well at room temp so if they've been off the tree for a couple weeks they become pretty inferior unless kept cool.
sally599 at 10:24AM on 11/20/09
Macintosh and Granny smith, heavy on the granny, are my winning combo.
Cantaloupe Alone at 1:55PM on 11/20/09
My mom always used Granny Smiths because she is not too big on sugary tastes so I used those until I took a baking class in Philadelphia years ago with a pastry chef from a well known restaurant who ONLY used Golden Delicious. I started using them then and have never looked back but I do sometimes use equal Golden Delicious and Granny Smiths to even out the sweetness. Northern Spy is an interesting thought but Macs and Empires I would think would turn to mush!!!
suschef at 2:46PM on 11/20/09
New England tradition demands baldwin apples.
Baldwin:
Raw: bland and uninteresting
Baked: Full of layered spicy notes
I'm down in VA where Baldwins cannot be found, so I'm experimenting tonight with a heirloom variety called "gold rush" which is an ugly beast, but crunchy, tart, and with a lot of layered flavors when raw. We'll see how it cooks up.
jennylynnpie at 3:38PM on 11/20/09
Winesaps! I had forgotten about them. Used to love them and think they were the best in pies! Haven't seen one in ages.
Lindie at 3:59PM on 11/20/09
Cortlands should surely be considered, a pamphlet put out by NYS apple growers names them as the best for pie. I am a Macoun fan myself, both for pie and out of hand snacking.
dmcavanagh at 7:47PM on 11/20/09
My new favorite this fall is jonagold for pies. Made a perfect tarte tatin this year: soft, cooked, and held its shape, though with tarte tatin, the apples are more cooked than they are baked. I have to say that in an informal crisp test I performed (I make dinner at a shelter twice a month) golden delicous outperformed granny smith by a mile. The grannies turned to mush while the goldens were sweet and held their shape. I'd think it would be hard to do an apple pie test without any apple pie seasoning though. Who's to say that plain apples in the presence of cinnamon, nutmeg, etc. would still perform the same?
Otabenga at 9:27AM on 11/21/09
Emily of Black Rock Orchard swears by Ida Reds.
If I've only got a choice of supermarket fruit, Golden Delicious is my favorite option, but at the farmers' market, I prefer talking to growers, sampling, and then selecting a mixture.
Eliz. at 7:15PM on 11/21/09
i just made the most unbelievable {if i do say so myself} tarte tatin with mostly pink ladies, with some russets, pippins, and winesaps thrown in. heaven!
cybercita at 7:53PM on 11/22/09
Haven't seen it mentioned yet, but Ambrosia's seem to bake up really well with a lot of flavor. Haven't tried them in a pie yet, but in muffins & other baked goods the texture holds up really well, and the flavor deepens and becomes more complex.
dawnp at 9:20AM on 11/23/09
I wonder if the Russet & Orin are regional apples because the Whole Foods in my area (PA) doesnt carry them. I'm going to try a mixture of Gala, Golden Del & Granny Smith w/the vodka pie crust!
Watch out!
Krimpetgirl at 10:09AM on 11/23/09
About 1 1/2 hours outside of LA (off the 10) there is a great apple growing region called Oak Glen, you can get all the heirloom varieties you can dream of. My current little bit of apple heaven... Arkansas Black- little sweet, little tart and super crisp. I don't like my fruit cooked, so I have no idea how they would bake, but if you can get your hands on them... so good!
beresh at 12:31PM on 11/23/09
Maybe, if possible, the seeds of those far-flung 800 apple varieties should be carefully collected and saved in the deep cold seed bank up in ?Finland?Sweden? Future generations may need them along with all the other vast varieties of foodstuffs our planet used to provide. Sadly, our modern-day food delivery system just can't handle the variety and logistics involved in providing them to us readily. Another reason for "back to the land"! We must seek them out...farmer's markets etc. Just as an aside...anyone remember when the Shriners, dressed as clowns, used to sell big delicious Macs on city street corners as a fundraiser? One of my treasured memories of the 50s!!
EWhiskers at 2:10PM on 11/23/09
I made my first batch of applesauce 35 years ago at the suggestion of my new MIL with Courtlands and since I bought a couple of bushels I would use them for pies and crisps as well. They don't require added sugar and the sauce is pink and the kids always thought that the color made it special. Each year I find I run out sooner than I should since there are more grandkids:-)
janaatwg at 4:25PM on 11/23/09
I like Ida Reds but can't find them anymore. I use a mix of Gala, Granny Smith and Macintosh. Not really much variety here in the stores, lucky to get those. The best way to get great tasting heirloom apple varieties is to plant a tree or two in your yard. If you are lucky enough to have a yard. We have seven acres and went a little crazy. Here are two great nurseries with excellent quality and service :
http://www.vintagevirginiaapples.com/
http://www.raintreenursery.com/
We have planted 30 or so fruit trees and we're waiting....in 3 more years they should start producing. What we're going to do with it all I don't know, but we just couldn't resist all the different varieties!
angelfood at 6:46PM on 11/23/09
I used to use Golden Delish (with skin on) in my pies. Keeping the skin on, helped maintain the firmness of this otherwise, kind of mushy apple, and their relative sweetness allowed me to cut back on the sugar I would normally add. However, after finding them at the farmer's market in Union Square, I've become a Mutsu/Crispin convert. You only need one (one!) apple to fill an entire, normal depth, pie and these apples compliment traditional pie spices really well. I'm making two for thanksgiving (a regular one and a bacon cheddar one)!
My mom, on the other hand, uses freshly picked Cortland apples and has for years.
h0rcrux at 11:15AM on 11/24/09
Sad we cant get bramleys cooking apples here :( oh well. I got mystery apples in my CSA and used those, lets hope they work!
jennywenny at 6:18PM on 11/25/09
Hey Kerosena, I've with you: Macintoshes are the best eating apples. I like their tender (fragile?) flesh and sweetness. I've always used Granny Smiths for baking, but this article will get me to expand my horizons.
ChessiePique at 10:08AM on 11/29/09
Yes, I often bake with Gala. I've preferred them for the reasons that you listed. It's sweet already. And it holds up well (such that it isn't mush but not too firm either).
wunami at 2:10AM on 12/01/09
Nice to hear about Galas as they are so commonly found.
One apple missing from the list though is the DUCHESS, It ripens early and is pretty mealy to eat out of hand. However it is the apple of choice in our family for pies and applesauce. It is not found in commercial markets as it bruises too easily. It can still be found here in Wisconsin at farmers markets in late August or early September. Holds its shape, melts in your mouth and has great flavor.
ajohng at 9:30AM on 12/02/09
Northern Spy apples are actually pretty notoriously hard to find in some areas (I live in southeastern PA). For the longest time my mom raved about them and told us how they were such a good baking apple, and my dad always teased her about these seemingly non-existent apples! Last year though, a friend finally tracked some down at a farm near her hometown, and I am now a firm believer in the superiority of Northern Spies for baking.
b_dub at 12:27PM on 12/06/09
My favorite apple for eating plain is Pink Lady. Any fairly crisp, tart apple is good for baking, though.
LaserLiza at 9:57AM on 01/30/10