A Hamburger Today
Is Mayo Making a Comeback?
With fried chicken, bacon, and other fatty comfort foods feeling a renaissance, it makes sense that mayo would jump on board too. Nostalgia sells, and Hellmann's, perhaps the king of the mayo brands, is capitalizing on that.
As Ad Week points out, their recent ads recall the good ol' days of meat and potatoes and so-called "real food," which includes the gloopy amalgam of eggs, oil, and vinegar. Even Bobby Flay is appearing in Hellmann's ads this holiday season, touting it as an essential part of the Thanksgiving spread, making mashed potatoes mashier and apple-cranberry crisps gooier.
Cheeseburger man Kevin Pang of the Chicago Tribune recently called it the underrated condiment and John Kessler of the Atlanta Journal Constitution pronounced Hellmann's the winner of a mayo taste-test, noting the emotional attachments people have with regional brands.
Yikes. As a mayo hater, this makes me a little nervous. Will it be harder to avoid as more chefs toy with esoteric mayos and home cooks sneak it into dishes?