Is Mayo Making a Comeback?
With fried chicken, bacon, and other fatty comfort foods feeling a renaissance, it makes sense that mayo would jump on board too. Nostalgia sells, and Hellmann's, perhaps the king of the mayo brands, is capitalizing on that.
As Ad Week points out, their recent ads recall the good ol' days of meat and potatoes and so-called "real food," which includes the gloopy amalgam of eggs, oil, and vinegar. Even Bobby Flay is appearing in Hellmann's ads this holiday season, touting it as an essential part of the Thanksgiving spread, making mashed potatoes mashier and apple-cranberry crisps gooier.
Cheeseburger man Kevin Pang of the Chicago Tribune recently called it the underrated condiment and John Kessler of the Atlanta Journal Constitution pronounced Hellmann's the winner of a mayo taste-test, noting the emotional attachments people have with regional brands.
Yikes. As a mayo hater, this makes me a little nervous. Will it be harder to avoid as more chefs toy with esoteric mayos and home cooks sneak it into dishes?
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41 Comments:
Hellman's / Best Foods hasn't been the same since they started using HFCS. It's an off flavor to what used to be my favorite mayo.
jackiecat at 7:36PM on 11/09/09
Hellman's is what most people think of as "real" mayonnaise. Unless they've actually tasted freshly-made mayonnaise, or even what you might call "esoteric" mayos, Hellman's is the pinnacle of what's readily available. Mayonnaise, real butter ... to me these are "real" ingredients (even the esoteric varities are real) that are a whole lot better-tasting than their fakers.
Besides, is there any conceptual difference between "designer" mayos and, say, various olive oils used for dipping? Not really.
God forbid Miracle Whip is used in anything I eat. Their current ad, that of, "We will not tone it down", just makes me nauseous.
LunaPierCook at 7:43PM on 11/09/09
I used to make a mayo cake (mayo in place of eggs, oil and vinegar (for baking soda)) and feed it to my brother who hates mayo. He still doesn't know after 10 years.
Yukiyummy at 7:48PM on 11/09/09
To be honest I had no idea mayo was "out".
frankweiler at 7:51PM on 11/09/09
My mom was the worst mayo offender. She'd sneak it into mashed potatoes, biscuits, and whatever else she could. And then she'd save the jar (which I had to wash). There is no smell more gag-inducing than the smell of steamy-hot mayo. To this day, the smell of may makes me gag.
beth1 at 7:56PM on 11/09/09
aaaaand we wonder why theres an obesity epidemic in this country? perhaps because many people are fond of glopping PURE FAT on top of everything they eat. ick. my roommate freshman year would eat mayo by the spoonful, straight from the jar. i've been turned off every since... tehina is a much better replacement.
Ilana Z at 8:16PM on 11/09/09
mmmmm I love mayonnaise. I do add it to my mashed potatoes in lieu of butter, along with roasted garlic. I've not seen that many people glop mayo on top of any food, actually, though I have been known to eat it with my fries the once every 2 months or so I eat them. I doubt that the amount of mayonnaise people are eating is what's causing any kind of epidemic. Ranch dressing on the other hand (under which many a tasty morsel of food has been drowned, or so I've seen first hand)... *shudder*
devlyn at 8:27PM on 11/09/09
I must have missed it.
Didn't know mayo was "gone" from the food scene.
CJ McD at 8:30PM on 11/09/09
Hellman's / Best Foods has changed in the last few years, it's now moving towards a Miracle Whip/Lite Mayo sort of flavor, more sweet and sour. Maybe people's perceptions of what Mayo is supposed to taste like has been distorted by Lite Mayos (which are all sweet)?
It's quite off-putting.
(yes, homemade is great, but has no shelf life, you going to whip up a batch to get a couple tablespoons for a BLT?)
peekpoke at 9:02PM on 11/09/09
I have always associated mayo with the result of a grilled cheese sandwich - the look, the smell, the taste...gag...
finewinendine at 9:26PM on 11/09/09
frankweiler, you are right...good 'old fashioned' mayo, fresh made or Hellman's brand, was never out with me...
Ever heard of a good BLT without it?
Erin, you are implying what exactly...
gutreactions at 9:43PM on 11/09/09
Even "real" mayonnaise from Hellman's or other regional/national brands has water in it, which (along with chemical stabilizers) lightens it up some. Jackiecat may be distressed to learn that Hellman's Real Mayo does not include HFCS unless they're allowed to count it as a "natural flavoring," and I don't think they can. They do list sugar as an ingredient, though.
And as for homemade not lasting—it lasts about a week in a sealed jar, and you can easily make just one cup (16 tablespoons, 8 sandwiches) with one egg yolk and a cup of oil. Heck, make it directly in the jar that you'll store it in if your immersion blender has one of those otherwise-useless whisk attachments. That kind of speed in an enclosed space is just perfect for homemade mayo in a wide-mouth jar. That's what I do.
mdeatherage at 10:32PM on 11/09/09
I'm not a fan of mayo in its natural state...I like it on sandwiches when its mixed with other things, pesto, red peppers, etc. Without the mix-in's no thank you. Well i have no exception, tuna and chicken salads. Only if I made them and know exactly how much is in there
rumanddiet at 10:50PM on 11/09/09
I'm one of those Yurpian heathens who loves to dip her pommes de terre frites in mayo...
And I wasn't aware it was "out," either.
Yeah, homemade mayo is best. But I keep a jar of Hellmann's in the fridge.
Ali at 11:02PM on 11/09/09
Ahhhhhhhhhh...pommes frites dipped in homemade mayo. Heaven!
I love homemade mayo and it never goes to waste. I can (and have) eaten directly from the container.
kayrob at 11:34PM on 11/09/09
@mdeatherage
Actually, hellman's doesn't even contain chemical stabilizers (unless you count the lecithin in egg yolks). There's some EDTA in there, which is what prevents it from oxidizing (the main problem with homemade mayo, and why Hellman's lasts longer than homemade), but that's a preservative, not a stibilizer. As far as mass-produced products go, Hellman's is way up there on the "purity" scale with Häagen-Dazs!
And I'm with you - I almost always have some form of homemade mayo in the fridge (be it mayo, aioli, or burger "sauce"). Countless uses for the stuff. Actually, I just used some mayo today because I ran out of eggs halfway through breading a batch of chicken cutlets. A little mayo/mustard/flour batter works great as the "sticky" layer in breading.
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 12:08AM on 11/10/09
in a perfect world i would always make my own but i can't really justify it unless i'm making a big batch of potato or egg salad. for everyday it's kewpie all the way although it may be time to give hellman's another chance.
propermake at 12:22AM on 11/10/09
Mayo is gross except for egg, potato, or tuna salad, and then just enough to barely hold it together. I make my chicken salad with plain yogurt because it tastes lighter and brighter. I also eat it with steamed artichokes at my parents' house, I can't do it anywhere else, same with drinking milk with dinner, I can only do it at my parents' house.
sarahj at 12:46AM on 11/10/09
I can only think that Marshall's family from How I Met Your Mother eats mayo with everything. I mean...they eat that crazy salad that is like half mayo and half random junk food.
wunami at 12:56AM on 11/10/09
Kenji: One takes corrections seriously from the author of the "foolproof pie crust" recipe, as well as the revised mashed potato technique that I think everyone should use. I sit corrected; I saw the EDTA in the ingredient list but mistook it for a stabilizer (i.e., "protecting quality" by keeping it from separating even though water is the second ingredient).
One of my key takeaways from Ruhlman's book Ratio was that you really can make a tiny batch of mayonnaise if that's all you need. If you truly only need ½ cup or so and you find it just too eggy, I suppose you can always break the yolk into a small bowl and pour half of it into your mixing bowl to start the emulsion, but I doubt that'd be necessary. One yolk will probably emulsify nearly two cups of oil if properly mixed, I think I read, so making ½ cup from one yolk should be no problem, and it really does take about a minute with that stupid electric whisk that I never thought I'd use for anything.
(The other use I found for it? Stirring tahini in the big jar mine comes in. I never got it that thoroughly mixed with anything else. But I don't use it for actual whisking; it's just too hard to control outside of a jar.)
mdeatherage at 1:43AM on 11/10/09
@mdeatherage: no need to take me any more seriously than the next serious eater... (p.s., that mashed potato recipe is Dave Pazmiño's, not mine!)
One yolk can easily emulsify a full two cups. There's actually enough lecithin in an egg yolk that once you have a stable emulsion started, as long as your ratio of water to oil is correct, you can make a huge quantity of mayonnaise with a single yolk. I've done as much as two quarts, and I've heard you can do more (this is just hearsay, but I believe that most commercial mayo manufacturers do way more than that in order to keep down the cost of the most expensive ingredient: the egg yolk). The key is to add oil until it looks like it's about to break, then add water to fix the ratio. Just alternate back and forth and you can keep going until your food processor is full (or your whisk-hand has fallen off).
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 1:53AM on 11/10/09
I love mayo and now that it is made with free range eggs and they do the range including the lighter ones, my girlfriend will eat it to.
stevewarner at 5:10AM on 11/10/09
Cooks Illustrated/ATK picks Hellman's.
They also say the Hellman's made with Canola oil is much "healthier", darned near as good straight, and indistinguishable when put in a dish.
That's what I have been buying for the last several months, and it is very good.
Remander at 7:20AM on 11/10/09
Anything as gloriously French as mayonnaise and french fries is okay in my book - mayo has such a weird place in culture now. Beloved among chefs and broadly in Middle America, but ignored by a significant slice of food-lovers.
silvermike at 7:54AM on 11/10/09
I love mayo, or at least I did until I fell in love with Hellman's light mayo. This summer I decided I was going back to real mayo, and it just didn't cut if for me. So Hellman's light continues to be the longest ingredient list I eat.
lemonfair at 7:56AM on 11/10/09
I am a huge fan of Duke's Mayonnaise. It has tons of flavor and it might just be a southern thing, but it is delicious.
AdamW1234 at 8:23AM on 11/10/09
I can't get why some people have a huge repulsion to mayo. I worked with a girl once whose parent's owned a bakery, and she actually had a mayo phobia! It totally freaked her out, made her gag, and otherwise made her crazy just having someone say the word. I don't get that. What's wrong with mayo? It's just oil and water, right?
I can understand where you would gag if you saw someone eating mayo plain. That's pretty gross sounding, but to each his own. I know people who eat ketchup straight out of the bottle.
As for putting mayo straight into dishes, what's wrong with that? I mean, I wouldn't put it in every dish, but for certain things, it brings a rich, lovely flavor to the dish. And is it really much different than putting water, oil and eggs into the dish? I would think it would be a great substitute for those things.
Anyway, I think some people are really over reacting to mayo. It's a condiment just like any other, and if you don't like you, that's ok. But there's no need to bash those who do like it.
Jewelsie at 8:26AM on 11/10/09
Gross. Mayo freaks me out.
Homemade, flavored mayos as a component to a dish are the only versions excluded.
BrooklynBaker at 9:04AM on 11/10/09
ditto on the "who knew mayo needed to make a comeback" comments.
carriebwc at 9:47AM on 11/10/09
I used to use mayo on a lot of things, but as I taught myself to be a better cook, I generally discovered that there are far superior sauces out there. I'll use it in a potato or chicken salad, though. And I'll still dip fries in it, if I happen to be in a situation where fries and mayo are in alignment in front of me, but I don't seek it out.
kevster at 10:04AM on 11/10/09
Hellman's has nothing on Duke's. Thats the way to go.
CarltonFist at 10:21AM on 11/10/09
mayo is a perfect condiment. and to those who say it's gross "by itself"... what condiments do you eat "by themselves"?
I must say though i'm surprised to hear about mayo in mashed potatoes. I love the stuff as much as anybody but i've never heard of that.
with french fries, i love to double-dip once in mayo, and once in ketchup. Mayo is a must on almost any cold-cut sandwich, and an absolutely essential supporting player in potato salad.
also, i've made my own mayonnaise, but i'm not totally convinced that it's better than hellman's. some things are best left to the experts...
mr guy at 10:25AM on 11/10/09
I love mayo - Best Foods while growing up and Hellmann's the past 15 years of my life...and Kewpie throughout my entire life.
When I am served fries, I make it a point to ask for mayonnaise, ketchup, and yellow mustard. I love fries in my concoction of mayo > ketchup >>> mustard.
Right now, I am eating lunch I brought from home -- yakisoba with fried Spam; cauliflower, broccoli, chicken, and edamame simmered in rayu, shoyu broth, ginger, and garlic; Kewpie mayonnaise; and seaweed.
Last night, I saw a clip of a popular type of ramen served with mayonnaise in Gunma prefecture, IIRC. It looks like shoyu broth mixed with Kewpie mayonnaise. The final *appearance* was similar to tonkotsu ramen. I'm definitely going to try it soon! :)
Cassaendra at 11:38AM on 11/10/09
I do love mayo. I grew up in a brown rice and broccoli kind of family, and when I was going through adolescent growth spurts I'd eat mayo straight out of the jar (for some reason we always had mayo in the fridge), which I suspect was a response to the lack of necessary fat in my diet.
I still love mayo. I often doctor up Hellman's if I'm too lazy to make my own- whisk in some olive oil, or even better, olive oil in which I've roasted garlic, or bacon fat, as well as herbs and spices and such. And when I make grilled cheese sandwiches, I smear mayo on the outside of the bread instead of melting butter- works incredibly well.
thatgrrl at 11:48AM on 11/10/09
I love mayo! On the left coast it was Best Foods, where I am now it is Duke's. I am the chick who, as a child, ate mayo and sugar on white bread. I have used it in my mashed potatoes, baked potatoes, the chocolate mayo cake, as the fat for a grilled cheese sandwich. I like the tangy taste. I have tried changing over to mustard, but I just have to have mayo with my tuna salad.
queenbleu at 11:50AM on 11/10/09
Poor Beth. I almost gagged with you at the thought of washing the mayo jar as a child. I will use a limited amount of Hellman's in recipes, but I have to hold my breath, avert my gaze as I glop it from the jar, and stir it in very quickly. There is also a waiting period before I can eat the food.
Rocquie at 1:44PM on 11/10/09
Mayo never left my side.
AnnieNT at 3:21PM on 11/10/09
As far as store-bought mayo-esque condiments go, Miracle Whip wins hands down, in my opinion!
On the other hand, few things are better than fresh, homemade mayo.
FlavorCountry at 9:15PM on 11/10/09
I used to mix it into Kraft Dinner. (that's Kraft Macaroni n'cheese to you Americans)
That was a pretty darn good idea when I was 17. Now the thought makes me want to go to the gym.
kevster at 9:26PM on 11/10/09
A comeback? When did it go away?
chanterelle at 11:17PM on 11/10/09
Comebacks are just marketing tricks. What I'd like to see make an actual comeback is the glass jars Hellman's used to use.
mcmvoices at 9:57AM on 11/14/09