Alton Brown Says No to Stuffing the Turkey

Alton Brown would not approve of this. ©iStockphoto.com/MentalArt
First order of business: stuffing is what goes into the bird and dressing is cooked separately, usually in a casserole dish.
Alton Brown is not against dressing, the mandatory Thanksgiving side of bready, herb-flecked goodness. He is against stuffing. A quote from his new book Good Eats: The Early Years:
When it comes to turkey, Stuffing Is Evil. That's because stuffing goes into the middle of the bird and is extremely porous. That means that as the turkey around it cooks, juices that may contain salmonella bacteria soak into the stuffing, which then must be cooked to a minimum of 165°F in order to be safe. Getting the stuffing to this temperature usually means overcooking the turkey.
The way I see it, cooking stuffing inside a turkey turns the turkey into a rather costly seal-a-meal bag. If you're a stuffing fan, I suggest cooking it separately (in which case it's "dressing," not stuffing) and inserting it into the bird while it rests. Odds are no one will notice the difference.
My family always went the dressing route, but then again, we called it "stuffing." Using the proper terminology can lead to confusion since some people hear dressing and just picture a big bottle of Ranch—and a pan of that coming out of the oven would be gross.
Related
Mark Bittman's Favorite Bread Stuffing
Everyday Food's Pecan Cornbread Dressing
The Silver Palate's Corn Bread-Sausage Stuffing With Apples
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58 Comments:
How can you compare all the delicious turkey juice and fat that mixes into the stuffing as it's slow cooked inside the turkey to some lame bread casserole?
Simple, homemade bread stuff made with homemade white bread (no crust), butter, onions, celery, salt, pepper (and a little thyme), cooked inside a big turkey is fantastically delicious! One of the tastiest things in life!
Anyway, Alton has turned into a skinny lo-carb freak. Who cares what he says about food anymore?
peekpoke at 8:09PM on 11/10/09
So do I. Stuffing becomes greasy when cooked in the bird (a desired result by some but not me). You have to roast the bird way past done to get the stuffing temperature safe and by that time you sacrifice the turkey quality. Oh, I know there will be those who say "I roast my turkey with the stuffing in it and it never comes out dry." Dry, in that case, is subjective.
therealchiffonade at 8:10PM on 11/10/09
I've been eating stuffing from inside the turkey every chance I've gotten through my 48 years. I've not gotten sick from it and have never heard of anyone else doing so. And the bag simply works. This kind of Spam from Alton Brown is why his opinions don't interest me at all.
LunaPierCook at 8:29PM on 11/10/09
I tend to prefer cooking it outside, but it's not hard at all to cook it in the turkey in a way that doesn't require cooking the turkey dry. Heat the stuffing in the microwave to, oh, 130, 140, something like that, then stuff it into a makeshift cheesecloth bag in the cavity. It will hit temperature fine, the bird will stay moist, and you simply pull the bag out in one piece. (Thanks to Cook's Illustrated for both ideas, I believe.)
Sky Full of Bacon at 8:36PM on 11/10/09
Not to get to pollan on you but doesn't the risk of salmonella directly correlate to the quality of the bird? Sure industrial birds run a higher risk and since most people eat them maybe Alton is doing a public service but I was hoping for a more Brownian answer like how the hydrophylic bread sucked all the juice from the breast or something. If salmonella and e. coli are the reason to avoid stuffing then I'm not worried.
christopher at 8:58PM on 11/10/09
We always had dressing, and called it dressing.
My wife did stuff a couple of ducks a couple of years ago. No one died from food poisoning.
Allan at 9:04PM on 11/10/09
Alton Brown used to be cool. His anniversary show was a great example of how downhill he has spiraled. It's called stuffing. Semantics are only as useful as the meaning conveyed. Stove Top Stuffing. In a casserole dish.. in a turkey... they're both stuffing. Don't ruin the holidays with useless bickering over semantics!
Christopher also illuminates an important point. Small technical difficulty here. If your turkey has salmonella, and you have to cook the stuffing to 165 degrees to kill the salmonella, then you ALSO have to cook the TURKEY to 165 degrees, or the evil salmonella's still gonna getcha'!
FlavorCountry at 9:05PM on 11/10/09
@Allan: There's no risk of salmonella from duck. The risk comes from the way poultry is "farmed" in the US. Not the birds themselves. Ducks are not raised the same way chickens and turkeys are. One of the more interesting facts I learned while getting my sanitation certificate.
VerySmallAnna at 9:10PM on 11/10/09
We always cook it outside but that's only because its so good that the amount we make would not fit in the bird.
bobbob at 9:58PM on 11/10/09
We always had stuffing inside and an extra casserole of it on the side. The stuffing from inside the bird was always the deliciousest.
Yukiyummy at 10:09PM on 11/10/09
@FlavorCountry - I think the point is that to get the stuffing to 165, the bird on the outside will get over 165. Like...overdone.
I *think* that is the point. But maybe newfangled oven technology can overcome that?
lawofmurphy at 10:29PM on 11/10/09
I will pretend I never read that.
yayfood at 10:46PM on 11/10/09
I've only had stuffing from inside the bird once. It was Stove-top. My mother-in-law (who admits she can't cook). The stuffing was a thick, pasty substance, and the bird flaked apart like a mound of sawdust. She now makes a ham (or I cook when we go back east).
beth1 at 11:13PM on 11/10/09
Right, Lawofmurphy, the point is that to get the hard core of stuffing at the center to 165F, you have to cook the outer bird to the consistency of pine bark. Unless it's something other than ice cold to begin with.
Sky Full of Bacon at 11:24PM on 11/10/09
@FlavorCountry: This is one of the original fundamental Alton Brownisms. Whether you agree with it or not, he made it pretty clear in Season 1 of Good Eats. Maybe he's "not cool anymore", but this has been his mantra since he was a nobody.
painaxl at 11:46PM on 11/10/09
Alton has changed his tune about stuffing though. Now he advocates precooking the stuffing and stuff it hot into the bird so it'll be at 165 when the bird is done.
Either way, I'm not much of a fan of fishing more out of the insides of a bird.
Lyra Ngalia at 11:46PM on 11/10/09
We don't eat much turkey, but on the rare occasions we do, I baste the bird with melted butter, and use the pan drippings to put in the pan of dressing. And the dressing will have sausage in it, which also helps keep it moist.
NotAmerican at 11:47PM on 11/10/09
Well, Alton, I say no to Welch's grape juice so...whateveryrmomworksatmcdonlds!
(JK, AB, we're still cool.)
sailordave at 12:02AM on 11/11/09
I can no longer pretend. I just looked up "stuffing" on FN's website and found AB's recipe for stuffed turkey, in which he microwaves the stuffing for 6 minutes before stuffing the bird and putting the thing in the oven. I'm no food scientist, but doesn't it seem that if you put hot stuffing into a cold bird, the stuffing is still going to cool down before the inside of the bird gets up to 165? It seems like a fruitless (except for the dried cherries) effort to prevent contamination.
And who is this guy if he's stuffing turkeys with cherries? And what is a bird? We just don't know. ;)
yayfood at 12:08AM on 11/11/09
omg, sailordave. lol!
yayfood at 12:09AM on 11/11/09
@abercrombie--you have now made me reconsider those Christmas purchases I was going to make from Abercrombie and Fitch. Go spam someone else's site.
beth1 at 2:50AM on 11/11/09
In the past we've cooked it inside the bird and outside the bird. I've never noticed a difference in real flavor between the two. I think it's about starting with high quality ingredients that will produce an amazing dish! If you are worried about your stuffing being dry, most likely you will be serving it with gravy, which also adds another layer of deep flavors.
Laura Klein at 3:01AM on 11/11/09
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this.
You don't HEAT UP dressing and then stuff the bird, for safety reasons.
You also don't stuff the bird and overcook the turkey.
Simply put, you stuff the bird, get the bird to temp, pull it, unload the stuffing into a separate baking dish and then finish the stuffing while the bird rests.
All problems solved. You get the cooked-in-the-bird flavor, safety, and a moist turkey, too. No more drama. Yay!
tmj529 at 4:58AM on 11/11/09
haha @tmj529....i can live with that!
_greenbean at 6:34AM on 11/11/09
Here in the UK you are always told that stuffing inside the cavity is a no-no for these reasons and that's why you stuff the neck end of the bird. If you remove the wishbone too (sorry kids) you can get those lovely slices of bothe meat & stuffing when you carve.
English Annie at 7:15AM on 11/11/09
to get the stuffing to 165,the bird on the outside will get over 165. Like...overdone.
Yes, this would be the point. And to my knowledge, there is no piece of kitchen technology that can selectively heat different parts of a food to different temperatures. I'd rather have a 100% perfectly roasted, moist turkey than take a chance on either a) overcooking the turkey or b) poisoning my guests. Seems like a no brainer to me.
If one insists on "turkey" flavor in stuffing, defat the drippings as you would for gravy and drizzle some of this nectar into your stuffing, safely in its baking dish.
therealchiffonade at 8:17AM on 11/11/09
Try sticking the turkey's neck into the "dressing" wrapped up in foil. Stick that in the oven while the turkey's cooking, and you'll never know the difference. And the empty cavity will also let the hot air circulate better...
doron at 9:20AM on 11/11/09
We have both, stuffing and dressing and alas,....NO ONE HAS EVER GOTTEN SICK! I'll be enjoying my "ass dressing" this year (as my dad calls it)! lol
Lvn4life at 9:27AM on 11/11/09
Yeah, I think you guys are missing the point of this article--in order for the stuffing to be safe to eat, you have to overcook the bird. The average person GROSSLY overcooks a turkey, each and every year, thus the stuffing is A-OK safe to eat.
tmj529's solution is perfect.
dootsie at 9:32AM on 11/11/09
One side of our family stuffs, the other mostly doesn't. The only tasty part of the stuffed stuffing is the bit that sticks out and gets crispy, so only one person gets something good and not gooshy and pasty. Put it in a dish and everyone gets some yummy.
Wanna talk bad "stuffing"? My late MIL, bless her little heart, made stovetop stuffing, but not from the box. Fresh, soft white bread, huge chunks of onion, a couple of tablespoons of sage, and canned chicken broth in a sauce pan until warm. It was the consiistancy of wet paper mache and never saw the inside of an oven. But her dinner rolls were to die for.
Cary at 9:49AM on 11/11/09
I cook the neck and giblets on the stove top while the turkey (a very large one) is starting to cook. Then make the dressing with the broth and neck meat. It ends up with plenty of turkey flavor, is cooked to perfection in a pan with a nice crust on it, and isn't risky.
lemonfair at 10:11AM on 11/11/09
Yes and people eat blowfish (fugu) all the time and some of them don't even die! It's not wise to risk a) the quality of the turkey by overcooking (because yes, some of us actually do eat it and b) possibly making people sick - however remote the chance.
Who knows? People who favor stuffing the turkey may do so well into old age but having owned a restaurant, I wouldn't take the chance. Why ruin a perfectly good feast by finding out that someone hurled all the way home because they ate stuffing that was cooked in the bird and the juice that seeped into the stuffing wasn't cooked to temperature? I won't risk the drying out of my turkey and logical solution is to cook bird and stuffing separately.
Try this. Stick a probe thermometer set to alert at 161 into the thickest part of the breast and stick another probe therm set to alert at 165 into the cavity dead center of the stuffing. If the alarm in the stuffing does not alert within 60 seconds the alarm in the breast, you're witnessing the very reason I don't stuff the turkey.
therealchiffonade at 10:27AM on 11/11/09
In my experience, Thanksgiving turkey made the typical way is always over cooked--probably because of the stuffing technique. Until we started following Alton Brown's directions for making a turkey, it always required tons of gravy. Now the white meat is moist and flavorful, and the pan of stuffing is perfectly delicious! Don't knock it until you've tried it--maybe experiment another day of the year and see how you like it.
LaurenK at 10:44AM on 11/11/09
"However remote the chance" is the death of every form of cooking.
You're in a lot more danger from the drive to where you're having T-day dinner than from the deadly stuffing in the center of your silent killer turkey. Get a grip!
Sky Full of Bacon at 11:06AM on 11/11/09
I just make corn bread to have on the side. Mostly because I don't particularly care for stuffing. Problem solved!
Amandarama at 12:01PM on 11/11/09
People sure are passionate about their stuffing/dressing. I've never thought about the salmonella aspect of it. I can't remember a time I've had stuffing (from inside a bird).
Cassaendra at 12:17PM on 11/11/09
I just fry the turkey and make the dressing on the side...no debate in our house.
jcrisco at 12:40PM on 11/11/09
Oh please. There is a slightly lower instance of dying from undercooked... carrots vs. undercooked turkey. This IS a serious subject.
therealchiffonade at 1:22PM on 11/11/09
I really appreciate AB's concern for food safety. Nobody thinks they've ever sickened anyone, but the millions of people that get foodborne illnesses every year suggest otherwise. Around 80% of chickens sampled have campyloacter and/or salmonella. I'd bet the numbers are pretty high for turkey, too. Use a thermometer, like AB suggests, and make sure all parts of the bird and/or stuffing reach 165 for safety.
sfullers at 1:29PM on 11/11/09
Cook's Illustrated figured out years ago how to get the best of both worlds - butterfly the turkey and roast it (flat) on a rack set over a pan of stuffing. The drippings flavor the stuffing AND the breast doesn't dry out before the legs are done. Brilliant!
AlterJ at 3:15PM on 11/11/09
I always stuff my turkey with sausage, sage, and onion stuffing. I have for over 30 years and am still alive and gobbling. There is nothing better than the delicious moist stuffing infused with the juices, and there is never a scrap leftover. I line the cavity of the turkey with cheesecloth, stuff the turkey and remove the stuffing while the turkey rests and put in the oven to keep warm. My favorite is the ball of stuffing from the neck flap. Anyone who touches that will suffer slow death. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, it is my gift for all my labor.
lamora at 6:43PM on 11/11/09
You all missed my point. At 165 degrees, you've already lost the battle. Turkey is overcooked at 165 degrees. Food safety? C'est la vie...
FlavorCountry at 8:32PM on 11/11/09
Turkey is absolutely not overcooked at 165. In fact, 170 in the breast is more palatable than 165. About 180 is best for the fattier dark meat.
Remove from the oven at 161 in the breast for perfect post-oven heat rise in a decent-sized bird.
sfullers at 11:50PM on 11/11/09
The perfect degree of doneness as sensed by the probe therm is 161 in the breast. As the turkey rests, tented, it will go up in temp. If it's first pulled from the oven at 165, it will be dry when it's fully rested.
therealchiffonade at 5:42AM on 11/12/09
Just to throw this into the mix: for people who don't eat turkey but like stuffing, it is nice to have the stuffing as 'dressing.'
People who do eat the turkey can always take dressing, put their cut turkey slices on top of the mix, and then let the juices seep down and pour gravy on it, if desired. Those who do not eat turkey can take the stuffing and mix it with their veggies for juice. Then, everyone is happy. And if your turkey is so dry no juice dribbles into the stuffing, then you understand why I don't like turkey :)
HeartofGlass at 6:30AM on 11/12/09
An easy fix:
Make the turkey and stuffing seperately. Stuff the turkey with lemon, herbs, garlic, etc. and when it's done, discard all of that and replace with the stuffing just before serving. It might take 5 more minutes at most. You're actually saving time and money since a stuffed turkey takes longer to cook.
ChefR0bert at 9:25AM on 11/12/09
WWPD
Sort of like WWJD, but it's What Would Pilgrims Do?? They'd stuff that bird, they'd also stuff under and around the bird. Who has room for 2 roasting pans in their ovens?? Not the pilgrims!
Judith klinger at 1:00PM on 11/12/09
As good as AB's brined turkey is, I'll take what he says as gold on T-giving!
Streyeder at 4:21PM on 11/12/09
The probes that come with supermarket turkeys are set to pop up at 185 F, which is 20 degrees hotter than the government recommended 165 F for poultry. This is the reason most Americans have dry turkey on Thanksgiving. 165 F is recommended as more of a precaution for pregant women, young children and senior citizens, or those more susceptible to foodborne illness; these are the same people who shouldn't eat sushi. At 165 F, it ensures that absolutely no bacteria is present. However, any good piece of poultry you have ever had at a restaurant was NOT cooked to 165 F. At 140-145 F, the meat should be perfectly cooked and perfectly safe for the average healthy person. The temperature should be gauged between the leg and thigh area of the bird, but be careful not to hit the bone or the temperature will skyrocket. When the juices are clear, the bird is cooked. In truth, all bacteria should be annihilated at 135 F, but stick to 165 F if you have a more sensitive immune system.
ChefR0bert at 4:34PM on 11/12/09
YES, Chef Robert! So true! This is why I completely ignore the stupid button popup therms. I leave it in the whole time I'm roasting the bird and after it's rested, I remove the plastic therm.
therealchiffonade at 6:01PM on 11/12/09
"Food safety? C'est la vie..."
Don't you mean C'est la guerre? (Or as Bugs Bunny says it: "cest la gwerry.") Let's face it, there's an ongoing battle against dry turkey and sick stuffing.
therealchiffonade at 5:34AM on 11/13/09
For somebody whose shows are based mostly around scientific fact, you sure missed the ball with this excerpt and 165F.
mandoopandoo at 10:01PM on 11/13/09
I like the "in the bird, moister" version of stuffing.
The solution that works best for me is to make my "stuffing" in the crockpot.
Follow nearly any recipe for stuffing/dressing.
Put it in to a lightly greased crockpot.
Cook on High for 45 minutes, then turn to Low.
The "newer" crockpots that cook hotter in temperature will have the stuffing ready to serve after four hours on Low. If you then turn the setting on to Warm and sit at the table a couple of hours later, those who like the part of the stuffing that tends to crisp up outside the bird will have a ring of crispier stuffing next to the wall of the crockpot. Those who prefer the moister stuffing that tends to be typical of being made inside the bird will have the rest.
In my older heirloom crockpots, the stuffing can go as long as seven to eight hours on Low after the first 45 minutes just fine. You have to know your crockpots.
I own five crockpots of varying size, and they get a good work out at the holidays. With the bird for Thanksgiving, and the standing rib roast in December, oven space is at a premium since I do not have double ovens. I use my crockpots for everything, from soup, through sides, to dessert. Having electrical outlets and sturdy tables on the patio to set them up on also frees up counter space.
Consider the crockpot option! You'll never do a holiday meal without again. ;)
Oh...and "hi" everybody.
It's the holidays.
Time to return.
I'll try not to make a name for myself as a spammer again.
*blush*
Gator Pam at 9:36AM on 11/16/09
Welcome back Gator Pam!!! You have been missed:
http://www.seriouseats.com/talk/2009/09/whats-for-dinner-tonight-the-comebackgatorpam-edition.html
yayfood at 12:09PM on 11/16/09
Welcome back Gator Pam!
I think AB changed his opinion on stuffing. I caught an episode on Sat at the gym (no cable at home) where he was in fact stuffing a turkey with challah stuffing... which was pre-stuffed in a cloth bag.
hmw0029 at 12:58PM on 11/16/09
I never put anything inside any bird except some aromatics, herbs, half a lemon, etc, whether chicken, turkey or duck. For the person who said the dressing otherwise doesn't get all the fat and flavor, that's easy: Put turkey stock in and on the dressing. Every year I make quarts of turkey stock in the weeks before Thanksgiving, from turkey backs, wings, necks, and other bony bits that start showing up in the market about now. Roast them first of course, with some aromatics, and then simmer. Chill, remove fat, strain, reduce by half, and freeze the resulting luscious dark demi-glace, so it's all on tap for Turkey Day. How on earth do you get enough gravy otherwise?
I like the crunch of baked dressings; in the bird they just get gooey. We do two dressings; cornbread-pecan-sausage-lovage and oyster. I would hate to see either one of them buried in a turkey.
amishtoo at 1:59PM on 11/16/09
I like stuffing the bird because, in my pseudoscientific experience, it seems to keep the breast from cooking as fast... seems like the bird cooks more evenly when stuffed. But, it's true... when you take it out, let's just say it's not something you'd want to serve to someone with a compromised immune system. So... stuff the bird, and make enough to bake some outside the bird as well. Eat the dressing while the stuffing comes up to the proper temp in the oven. Satisfy both the dressing AND the stuffing (with yummy drippings) devotees.
hefetc at 6:40PM on 11/16/09
I work in a public kitchen (a non-profit) and we get all types of people volunteering and one thing that I know is that most people have no real idea of food safety and for the most part it is an act of G-d that they have not killed themselves.
On a lighter note what you can always do is 30 mins before the turkey is done remove the stuffing and put in rough cut veggies and some of the stuffing on the outside just for looks. Return the turkey back to the oven to finish. With the stuffing just put in in the oven until it cooks also. You get the best of both worlds
kah9932 at 11:47PM on 11/16/09