Hot Dog Of The Week: Detroit Coneys
"Like any hot dog style that's been around for almost 100 years, the Detroit Coney has migrated far and wide."
[Artwork: Hawk Krall]
Detroit's Coney Island hot dog phenomenon has almost nothing to do with Brooklyn's Coney Island (similar to its cousin the Texas Weiner, which has absolutely no relation to Texas). At first glance, the Coney might just look like your average chili dog—but don't say that to anyone in Michigan, Ohio, upstate New York, or any of the other far-reaching places where the Coney has migrated.
In Detroit, a "Coney" is a natural casing beef and pork dog covered in ridiculous amounts of Coney Sauce, yellow mustard, and chopped fresh onions. Served at Greek diners at all hours, one of the defining characteristics of a Coney seems to be the sauce—there's so much of it, you need a plate and full set of silverware. Cheese is an option but not as standard until you start moving toward Ohio and Cincinnati chili territory.
Two Coney dogs from Lafayette Coney Island in Detroit. [Flickr: mollyali]
The mysterious "Coney Sauce" bears a resemblance to the Texas Chili and Greek Sauce you find on hot dogs in New Jersey—beef chili, no beans, cooked slowly and flavored with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. Some recipes call for ground-up hot dogs thrown in the mix (as do some Jersey Greek sauce recipes). But the difference is in the texture and secret ingredients like beef hearts, lard, bacon grease, and olives. The Detroit Coney sauce is much "wetter" and a bit milder than the East Coast's Greek sauce, and more often served on its own in a bowl.
Many of the older Coney Island restaurants in Detroit also offer what they call a loose hamburger, a Detroit version of the Maid-Rite burger, but served on a hot dog bun. The truly adventurous can order a combo: a hot dog covered in both Coney sauce and loose meat plus cheese, onions and mustard. At this point we're almost getting into poutine and Frito pie territory (which sounds pretty good to me).
The Legend of the Detroit Coney Dog
It goes back to Gust Keros, a Greek immigrant who went to Detroit (by way of Coney Island, New York) and opened American Coney Island in 1912. A few years later his brother opened Lafayette Coney Island right nextdoor, and both still operate to this day in an awesome side-by-side restaurant battle.
Inside American Coney Island. [Flickr: like, totally]
All over Detroit there's an abundance of Coney Island restaurants that serve Coney dogs as well as a full diner menu of gyros, liver and onions, Greek salads, hot wings, and fish sandwiches. The atmosphere is more like an East Coast greasy spoon or Greek pizza place than a hot dog stand.
Like any hot dog style that's been around for almost 100 years, the Coney has migrated far and wide. In Flint, Michigan you can get a Flint Coney that locals will stress has nothing to do with Detroit. A Flint Coney has a much dryer sauce that doesn't run everywhere (similar to the "loose hamburger" mentioned above) and seems to favor Koegel's brand hot dogs. Over in Jackson, Todoroff's has been open since 1914 and sells chili, baked beans, hot dogs and beer next to the train station.
Video: Foodways in Michigan
This video covers all kinds of iconic Michigan foods, but at around 1:40, it pays special tribute to the Coney Dog.
Coney Dogs Outside of Michigan
You can find Coney Islands as far east as Massachusetts (at George's Coney Island Hot Dogs in Worcester) and north into Canada.
But by far the most interesting riff on the Detroit Coney has got to be the "Michigan" or "Red Hots" served in Northeastern New York state at institutions like Clare and Carl's, where they serve the dogs blanketed in Coney sauce, on New England-style buns—a variation I hope to try someday soon.
There's a sort of "Hot Dog Twilight Zone" in central New York state and Pennsylvania where the "Texas Weiner-Coney Dog" line is very hard to define. Some stands use both "Texas" and "Coney" terms on their menus, and are usually Greek-owned (or used to be). Generally the hot dog wording is indicative of where the regions cultural and culinary influence comes from—the East Coast or the heartland. Sort of like the invisible "Hoagie-Submarine Sandwich" line in New Jersey that separates the Philadelphia-Jersey folks from the New York-Jersey folks.
If you want to make your own Coney sauce, check out this great recipe made with beef hearts. Or if you're in the area, swing by one of these Detroit and Flint Coney Island Dog institutions.
American Coney Island
115 Michigan Avenue, Detroit MI 48226 (map)
313-961-7758
Lafayette Coney Island
118 W. Lafayette Blvd., Detroit MI 48226 (map)
313-964-8198
Angelo's Coney Island
1816 Davison Road, Flint MI 48506 (map)
810-233-4000
Todoroff's Original Coney Island
1200 W. Parnall Road, Jackson MI 49201 (map)
517-841-1000
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17 Comments:
One thing that one may not understand about coneys, that make it very different from any other hot dog, is the casing. When you bite into a Detroit Coney Island Hot Dog it "SNAPS!", deliciously at that. That is perhaps the most memorable unique component to the dish. Furthermore, Lafayette is infinitely better and more revered than American. It is the most legitimate spot to get a coney dog. If you get a coney without chili cheese fries there, you are doing yourself a tremendous disservice. I am a Grosse Pointe native a suburb that is truly outside of Detroit and am a revered authority on coney dogs!!!!
Timothyrows at 2:46PM on 10/09/09
Skyline Chili, one of the two giants of cincinnati sells a package mix to make at home which is very good. My personal favorite is my hometown greek boys, the Regas family's Deluxe Coney Island in Duluth, MN. Their meat sauce is also beanless, but doesn't have the sweet spice like Michigan (cinnamon, cardoman, etc). I don't particularly care for the ones in the SE, like in Alabama where "hot dog sauce", is a runny red mix with slivered onion.
burgerdogboy at 2:50PM on 10/09/09
No thanks I've been to Detroit.
redfish at 3:00PM on 10/09/09
You can't talk about dogs in Michigan without paying a little blog time to Yesterdog. Sure it's 300 miles from Detroit, and not a Coney Dog, but it's a delicious Michigan dog nonetheless!
http://www.yesterdog.com/
mgort89 at 3:20PM on 10/09/09
The difference between the traditional Detroit Coney and the Flint Coney is similar to the difference between the Passaic County (Paterson/Clifton) Texas Weiner and the Plainfield area Texas Weiner. The Passaic County version is "wetter' and thinner than the Plainfield area version which resembles the Flint Coney. The Flint Coney is indeed drier than the Plainfield area Texas Weiner. While the traditional Detroit Coney may be wetter than the East Coast version in general, as you mentioned in the article, it is not wetter than the Texas Weiners in Passaic County. The Hot Grill, Libby's, and Pappy's Diner serve Texas Weiners that are as wet/thin as the Detroit Coney if not more so.
One other difference is that the Detroit Coneys (both traditional and Flint) are grilled, while in Passaic County, N.J. they are deep fried. The cooking method is important. The Plainfield area Texas Weiner is grilled.
In Pennsylvania, New York, and Connecticut the terms Texas Weiner and Coney are often interchangeable. Texas Weiner is more common the closer you are to Jersey.
Have you been to Detroit? And if so, do you prefer Lafayette or American? There is quite a rivalry here which reminds me of the rivalry between Callahan's and Hiram's in Jersey. Two places right next to each other that both thrived despite the competition. Both had loyal fans that would never set foot in the other place.
The Michigans in upstate New York are grilled or steamed and the chili often is a tomatoey chili similar to the chili served at hot dog trucks in Newark, N.J. and Hudson County. The dogs used are mostly Glazier brand. A beef/pork blend, but much more well seasoned than what is served at Texas Weiner/Coney joints. A lot of garlic and paprika.
I really enjoy this series on regional styles although personally I don't particularly care for most of the stuff that goes on these dogs. But many do and it's interesting to see what people like around the country. Detroit Coneys and Texas Weiners are 2 regional styles that I happen to enjoy. As is the Newark style Italian Hot Dog, Jersey deep fried dog, New York Deli style dog, and to a lesser extent, the Chicago style or Depression dog. I'm not crazy about the many Mexican or Latin American dogs with their many toppings, the Seattle dog featured last week, the Puka Dog, or any other that focuses on an abundance of ingredients. But I enjoy reading about them and hearing all kinds of opinions. Keep em coming!
hotdoglover at 3:34PM on 10/09/09
LAFAYETTE CONEY ISLAND IS MY MECCA.
1 coney, 1 loose, and a Vernors.
My dad grew up going there, I've been going since I was in diapers. Nothing compares.
(p.s. Lafayette and American are owned by the same family, I think...which has always been a part of the joke AFAIK)
omnomnom at 5:48PM on 10/09/09
Okay, I sound like a freak, but really, this post just made my husband go to a local coney joint to satiate our craving. We live too far from Detroit now to make it to Lafayette for quick eats, but there are a couple of okay coneys here in Lansing.
omnomnom at 5:55PM on 10/09/09
I grew up on the Flint dog, and lived 1.5 blocks from Angelo's about 20 years ago, so that's the one I like. I also like Todoroff's Jackson-style dog as it's closest to the Flint style, with the American/Lafeyette Detroit versions last.
For anyone interested, my recipes for two styles of Flint coney sauces are on a PDF here. Print that on two sides of one piece of paper and fold it in thirds for a little pamphlet on the subject. Two sauce recipes are there, one made with ground chuck and ground Koegel Vienna's with the natural casings, answering rumors that Angelo's sauce has the dogs in it. The other recipe is based on ground chuck, ground beef heart and beef kidneys for a more traditional taste that's also more accurate.
Finally, Koegel makes their own version of the Detroit coney sauce. Uptown Coney in Ann Arbor and Chelsea serve this sauce but on the same Koegel Viennas used in the Flint coney.
LunaPierCook at 7:16PM on 10/09/09
i used to live in royal oak. i miss the coneys, but i miss the dark snack from chickens hack with broasted potatoes more. (yesterdog rules too)
gastronomeg at 10:37AM on 10/10/09
Be still my beating heart as you have written about something that resonates so strongly in me. I grew up about 5 blocks from Angelo's in Flint and have been away from Michigan for over 13 years now yet my craving for a dog from Angelo's is incessant. I've had other coney's but Angelo's is still the king. Yes the sauce matters but so do the dogs themselves. Koegels are by far the best tasting hotdog I've ever eaten and as such I essentially won't eat any other brand. I'm thrilled that they are finally online and can order their sauce.
Bunnyman at 4:09PM on 10/10/09
I've been going to Lafayette for over 40 years. I think our kids first taste of meat was the Coney sauce. It's our family's favorite place.
We just saw the film "Whip It" with Ellen Page an Drew Barrymore. Part of it was filmed in Detroit, and the food fight scene was filmed at Lafayette Coney Island. I'd recognize that place anywhere.
Rene ala Carte at 12:09AM on 10/11/09
i prefer Lafayette, but if it's more crowded i'm fine with American. Two dogs with everything, NO cheese. Vernors, maybe fries.
Sausages in general and hot dogs in particular are great in Michigan. High standards and lots of appreciative cooks and eaters!
juana at 9:04PM on 10/11/09
How could Athen's Coney Island (Woodward) not be on your list?!? I live in California and wax poetic about the Athen's loose burgers (onions and yellow mustard) of my childhood. I would try to make my own coneys at home, but can't get past the whole beef hearts thing.
greenfeet at 7:18PM on 10/12/09
I just want to add another voice to the Detroiters who are all about Lafayette. I'm back for a visit later this week, and now I'll have to make a Coney run!
Rinsewind at 8:13PM on 10/12/09
@burgerdogboy and company: Detroit coney island chili is not sweet at all, nor does it have a taste of cinnamon to it. Skyline chili on the other hand has a very strong sweet and cinnamony flavor. Detroit chili is a much more savory flavor
Timothyrows at 10:02AM on 10/13/09
i have developed a instant coney hot dog sauce which can be made in 5 min. if you like a free sample e-mail me at olucy3@yahoo.com or checkout our web site greekhotdogsauce.com
greekhotdogsauce.com at 12:29PM on 10/21/09
@greekhotdogsauce
that's amazing. think I might order some up and give it a shot.
Speaking of things for sale, check out my brand new prints available of the above Detroit Coney artwork:
http://www.hawkkrall.net/prints
Hawk Krall at 2:33PM on 10/21/09