Hot Dog of the Week: Charlie's Pool Room
"By not having a Charlie's hot dog, it's like skipping a chapter in this book called life."
[Art and photographs: Hawk Krall]
Over Labor Day weekend I had the opportunity to visit what might be one of the country's most unique hot dog joints. Hidden on backroads in western New Jersey near the Pennsylvania border—closer to the mountains than the ocean—lies Charlie's Pool Room. Located on a residential street, it's easy to miss. In fact, finding this place was like an episode of Lost. The street names didn't match up to my road atlas or Google maps, and the GPS went haywire and told us we were still in Pennsylvania.
Charlie's started out in 1925 as a neighborhood pool room that also served hot dogs. I was expecting beer, bikers, and maybe video poker, but the big "No Swearing" sign shot that theory down immediately. The atmosphere is more of an old-time candy store meets visionary art shrine—with hot dogs. Amazing. And so are the hot dogs.
These are Kunzler brand, German-style beef and pork hot dogs from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. You can order a plain but the specialty is the Mealie, which comes with their grandmothers' "irreverent" Hungarian onion sauce, hot peppers, fresh finely diced onions, and a pickle on the side. Whatever you do, don't put the pickle on the dog. This is New Jersey, not Chicago.
I don't know if traditional condiments are even available (I didn't ask). But either way, you don't need them. The unusual name comes from the idea that one hot dog is enough for an entire meal, although I admittedly had three.
The Kunzler dogs were really good, surprisingly unique with a smokey flavor, just crispy enough from being pan-fried. Grandma Fencz's onion sauce is a spicy-sweet concoction, perfect with these dogs. Similar to New York City-style red onion sauce, it's made in-house and I would guess contains some combination of onion, tomato product, vinegar, spices and sugar. Sodas are available from the machine in front; chips at the counter.
The wait can be be a bit long because the dogs are made to order by John Fencz. His brother Joe works the front. But there's plenty to look at and read while you wait. The inside is covered in hand-lettered signs with quotes from the Bible and Thomas Jefferson, the Bill of Rights, and pool table rules rarely used anymore. And Joe is a great host who gladly runs through the history of Charlie's and will answer any questions you might have.
The customer testimonials are my favorite:
"By not having a Charlie's hot dog, it's like skipping a chapter in this book called life. -C.T."
"These hot dogs have made me a better man - J.M."
The lone table, which seats about eight, is covered in laminated articles about Charlie's, local newspapers, and piles of Chick Tracts. There's also benches along the wall where you could sit if there was a crowd, but this has only happened a few times. Most of their business seems to be take-out and food tourists who often call ahead.
In fact, Joe said that Charlie's was ready to close a few years ago. The neighborhood, once a mini Main Street, had all but disappeared, with nearby businesses closing or moving except for them. Then out of the blue people started showing up, saying they had read about Charlie's online.
The Fencz brothers didn't own a computer then and still don't, but attribute the renewed interest in Charlie's to hot dog aficionados and writers such as Holly Moore and John Fox (aka hotdoglover), both of whom tipped me off to this place (thanks guys).
Since then Charlie's has been the subject of many local news articles and even landed a spot in Jane and Michael Stern's latest book 500 Things To Eat Before It's Too Late. Joe says that in the last few years they've had people travel from as far as Florida just to sit and have a few of their signature dogs.
Let's hope the buzz grows and Charlie's remains open for years to come.
Charlie's Pool Room
1122 East Boulevard, Alpha NJ 08865 (map)
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15 Comments:
I spent the first 30 years of my life within 15-20 miles of this place and never heard of it. I now live in GA and have been twice in the past year. There's nothing like it anywhere and, if there is a Hot Dog Hall of Fame, CPR should be a charter member.
grampart at 1:01PM on 09/18/09
I'm glad that you got the chance to experience (and enjoy) Charlies Pool Room. I would have to say that this is the most unique hot dog establishment I've been to. Their Hungarian sauce is different and a topping that people seek out. Sort of like the homemade relish at Rutt's Hut, the Texas Weiner chili at the Hot Grill, the special sauce at Flo's and so on. I don't eat onions so I haven't tasted the Hungarian sauce, but people I know rave about it. Combine that with the made to order dogs and the one of a kind atmosphere, and you have a winner.
Joe once told me that without the sauce it would be just another dog. I disagree. These dogs are prepared well in a frying pan, are fresh, hot and have a nice pleasing, though mild flavor. I get mine with mustard and a pickle on the side.
Charlies took a big hit when Ingersoll Rand in Philipsburg closed down. But thanks to the internet and sites like this one, Charlies became known to many new customers. As mentioned, it is very hard to find. I usually get lost when I come. But it's worth the long ride. Excellent article Hawk.
hotdoglover at 1:19PM on 09/18/09
The only way I found it was thanks to printed out Mapquest directions, and even then it was tough.
Joe and John are great guys. According to them, they used to be hippies and hardcore gamblers, but they got religion and turned their lives around, eventually taking the place over from their dad, who used to cut hair in the now-vacant barbershop next door.
Clarifying a couple of things. They don't have a computer, but one of the brothers regularly goes to the public library to surf the Net. He is especially good at finding mentions of their place, which he prints and adds to their collection.
Secondly, the dogs are pan fried, but what gives them extra zip is that they are pan-fried in oil. They used to use Crisco, but it got too pricey, so they use cooking oil they buy in bulk.
Their religiosity might be off-putting to some, but they really don't shove it down your throat or preach at you (with the exception of the tracts and Bible verses on the walls). Get over that and you'll have a fine time. My girlfriend and I went there two or three times one summer, then came back late the next summer and were stunned when Joe greeted us by name. He remembered!
Oh, and the mealie is simply the finest dog I've ever had, with Coney Island Lunch in Scranton, PA, a distant second.
growler at 5:26PM on 09/18/09
I don't know of any place in the country where a hot dog is made with such loving care. John stands over the frying pan, constantly turning the dogs, slicing hash marks in the when the time is right, turning them some more. Each dog is perfectly cooked.
To make a mealie John bends over the finished hot dog and slowly and precisely lays each pepper strip in just the right place.
It is impossible for me to state who serves the best hot dog in the country. I do think Charlie's Pool Room is the best place in the country to eat a hot dog or ten.
Holly Moore at 6:00PM on 09/18/09
The dogs in West Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania are milder pork and beef franks usually served with yellow mustard and pickle. The common brands are Kunzler, Berk's, and Hatfield. I've had the Kunzler brand at several places in the area, but it always tastes better at Charlies. Prepared just right. They use Wesson oil and steam the buns.
Joe has quite a memory and remembers every one who walks through the door. You won't meet owners who care more about their product and customers than Joe and John. Two all around great guys who deserve to do well. Many places do well because of factors like location and reputation. Or they might be the only game in town. Other places serving superior dogs and providing better service are forced to close down. I've seen it. Sadly serving a top notch dog with care is no longer a guarantee of success in these times. Which is why I'm happy that Charlies is doing well. It would have been a shame if they had to close down.
Charlies would make a great stop on the New Jersey Hot Dog Tour. Unfortunately they are not able to serve 50 plus people with one small frying pan. But Joe and John are gracious enough to open on their day off exclusively for myself and a small group of about 15. They've done this in the past and they will do it next month for me. Most in my group attend the annual Tour and many name Charlies as their favorite hot dog joint.
People's tastes are personal and subjective. But in all the time I have been reading reviews and comments about hot dog establishments, Charlies Pool Room is the only one where I've never come across a bad review or even read of anyone saying that they didn't like their dogs.
hotdoglover at 7:08PM on 09/18/09
John, you need to get yourself to Scranton to try Coney Island Lunch (the real one, not the sham imposters on the main drag). They serve a local weiner, Guttheinz. And in some of the supermarkets' deli sections you can find equally good local dogs, like Schiff's and another whose name I forget at the moment.
growler at 7:31PM on 09/18/09
Do you have an address? I get to PA about once a year for a beer festival in Adamstown. I believe Schiff's is a kosher dog from Boston that was just revived by the original owner's grandson. I would love to try them as I've heard that they are very good. Heard of Guttheinz but never had them.
hotdoglover at 8:00PM on 09/18/09
Found the address. Lackawana Ave. in Scranton.
hotdoglover at 8:02PM on 09/18/09
http://www.texas-wiener.com/ourworldfamoustexaswiener.htm
If this is the place, their site says they serve a Berks all beef dog.
hotdoglover at 8:06PM on 09/18/09
No, Schiff's is a meat store and supermarket in Scranton.
And that's the impostor. I stupidly added "Lunch" when the original is just Coney Island. Here's their Web site: http://www.coneyislandofscranton.com/CIOS1/Welcome.html The place is all spiffed up now, after is was gutted by an arson last year. So glad they stuck with it and reopened.
growler at 8:20PM on 09/18/09
Yeah I came across those two Scranton Texas Lunch spots when researching the Texas Weiner article. Some crazy history going on in hot dog etymology, since they describe the dogs as both "texas weiners" and "coney island".
They both seem to claim to be the original and the debate seems pretty heated. If I make it out there will definitely try both.
Also in the poconos that weekend (after Charlie's) was surprised at the hot dog selection in the supermarkets. Picked up some Thumann's and cooked them on the grill, really really good.
Hawk Krall at 11:39AM on 09/20/09
Were they the ones in the blue and white package? These are the natural casing 6 to a lb beef and pork franks that Thumann's are known for.
hotdoglover at 6:56PM on 09/20/09
pool room? like billiards or swimming pool?
l_destouches at 7:36PM on 09/22/09
hotdoglover- yes they were the beef and pork Thumann's, incredible... some of the best I've had.
destouches- definitely billiards. no swimming here. the pool table is rarely used these says though. There's also a pinball machine.. used to be more of a neighborhood game room before they became known for their dogs.
Hawk Krall at 8:12PM on 09/22/09
Had lunch today at Charlies, Great as usual, I rate the mealie the best in the country,second is flow's on route 1 in Maine, third is the Texas winner on rt 22 in greenbrook N.J. and 4th is Ruts hut also in New Jersey . also Joe and John are great and there place is unusual to say the least
Bigrich at 4:40PM on 10/09/09