Gadgets: Progressive International Folding Mandoline Slicer
Even though it's not the most commonly used gadget, I've always thought that there was a fairly essential place for a mandoline in every kitchen. The question is, when you're shopping for a gadget that you're not going to use often, how worthwhile is it to invest in a quality product versus a budget buy? There seemed to be one particularly obvious way to find out, so I followed my intuition and brought home a gently priced, user-friendly version of the ever-dangerous tool: the Progressive International Folding Mandoline Slicer.
One of the reasons that this particular mandoline comes in at such a reasonable cost (under $20 at amazon.com) is that its body is made of plastic rather than metal. This almost seemed like an advantage to me--it meant less space for rust and an easier clean, even if that perfectly sleek look was somewhat compromised. However, I quickly came to learn that there were lots of other pros and cons to the machine.
Rather than having an adjustable slicer, the Progressive International model features three plates that can be interchanged for different results: thick, thin, and ultra-thin slices, along with the same options for julienne cuts. Easy as they are to configure, I was admittedly a little afraid when popping them in and out required me to apply pressure right near the blade, and winced when removing one plate almost seemed to nick or dent it. That couldn't be a good sign. And the pegs that hold your vegetables to the finger guard are temperamental too, which meant that my patience ran out just as I stopped fearing the machine (this, in turn, made my friends bite their nails in concern over my safety).
Even still, the mandoline works well enough when all the parts work in unison. It's kind of a big "if" to deal with, but once you get going, you're good until you're done. And a compact carrying case that keeps all parts (body and gadget) safe is a feature that should be made standard for any such tool.
Unless you're planning on doing some serious cooking with a mandoline or have the expendable budget, I probably wouldn't recommend going for a top-of-the-line model, but I'm not sure I'd recommend this one either. Looks like we're back at square one.
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14 Comments:
Thanks for the review! I was actually considering this exact item on Amazon.
semarr at 11:55AM on 09/24/09
Interesting!
I bought the Kyocera slicer almost a year ago, and it has been great.
http://www.amazon.com/Kyocera-Adjustable-Mandoline-Slicer-Red/dp/B000HZBXOA/ref=pd_bxgy_k_text_c
It is also plastic, but with a ceramic blade, and was about $25. It's not free-standing, you have to slice over a bowl, but it's quite thin and can hang on the wall with other flat gadgets when not in use. There's an adjustable bar behind the blade that give you options for thin, really thin, really super thin, and ridiculously thin, but no julienne option (Kyocera also sells a julienne slicer, but I would rarely have a use for it.) And since the blade is ceramic, we throw it on the top rack of the dishwasher - a big selling point for me!!
CEBakes at 12:17PM on 09/24/09
I really appreciate the information you provided and the timing is perfect. I have always wanted a mandoline-slicer and was planning on buying one this weekend. Since I am unfamiliar with the types of mandoline's available and whether plastic or metal would make a difference, after reading the article I think I would prefer plastic and a less expensive one for I may not use that often. It's funny though, the last few recipes I tried a mandoline would have come in handy,
Thank you for the information!
margaretbruce7 at 12:29PM on 09/24/09
I personally love the De Buyer mandoline, since its more versatile than some of the other cheaper ones... but to me, you get what you pay for.
Granted, it costs about $200, but I look at it this way. Its like buying a good set of knives, you buy it right the first time and youll never have to buy them again. Plus this thing does waffle cuts.. how cool is that ;)
I like that its sturdy, so if im slicing something, I don't want it moving around, which the rubber feet come in handy. Lastly, I love that it holds the blades underneath the unit and are easy to take out and put in another one.
I just love this thing... best $200 I spent on a kitchen gadget.
plazmaorb at 12:32PM on 09/24/09
I love my mandoline. Like plazmaorb says, though, you do get what you pay for. I'm not much of a fan of the lighter weight plastic mandolines. They seem like they'd be ok for slicing lighter fare, but I'd think they'd move around too much for anything heavy.
I also have a cut-resistant glove that I wear when using my mandoline. I think these are almost essential.
MarvinDog at 12:55PM on 09/24/09
My Cuisinart food processor has a slicing blade - two in fact - one thick and one thin. I use them in lieu of a mandoline and have been satisfied with the results in every day use.
no fear of slicing fingers and it's "adequate" for my needs.
suegsf at 12:59PM on 09/24/09
My Cuisinart food processor has a slicing blade - two in fact - one thick and one thin. I use them in lieu of a mandoline and have been satisfied with the results in every day use.
no fear of slicing fingers and it's "adequate" for my needs.
suegsf at 1:00PM on 09/24/09
I keep on pouring over the oxo mini mandolin whenever I see it. Could you maybe take it for a spin next? I'd really like an inexpensive one.
annabanannas at 2:18PM on 09/24/09
I, too, have the $25 Kyocera mandoline that CEBakes linked to and I love it. I keep it on my pegboard with a couple of other utensils and gadgets and I use it pretty often. It's lightweight, but not in a bad way.
emgroff at 2:54PM on 09/24/09
@plazmaorb -- you're right. you definitely get what you pay for. i'm still hoping there are reasonably priced products out there that can do the job "well enough" though!
@CEBakes -- I definitely looked at the Kyocera, but I'm not going to lie--one of the main functions of a mandoline for me is making perfect fries. And if there's no julienne option, there are no fries!!
@annabananas -- I'll totally keep it in mind the next time I pick up a mandoline.. Stick around!
Nikki Goldstein at 4:21PM on 09/24/09
Anyone watch that Hell's Kitchen or Top Chef episode a week or so ago where someone nearly sliced their fingers off with a mandoline? Poor finger tips looked like they were barely hanging on. Yeahhhhhh...I haven't actually been able to erase that image in my mind since.
As if I weren't terrified of mandolines before. I'll probably end up investing in a food processor like suegsf.
hungryhungryhippo at 1:17AM on 09/25/09
@Nikki Goldstein
Yep, perfect fries is the main function of my mandoline as well.
@hungryhungryhippo
I nicked myself every time I cut fries until I got a glove. I like to think of myself as being a safe operator in the kitchen, but man-- this thing got me every time.
MarvinDog at 11:30AM on 09/25/09
Had this mandoline, that exact problem with the finger guards ended up injuring my thumb! So ... yes, no love for this machine.
sarahlizzy at 1:18PM on 09/25/09
I have a Benriner and love it. It's plastic and freestanding, sharp as anything and dangerous as heck (lol). Cost about 25 bucks and I can plow through 5lbs of potatoes for a gratin in just a couple of minutes...makes beautiful julienne too.
I also have the Oxo mandoline, a big bulky job and it SUCKS. 80 bucks and it just doesn't seem sharp enough...it's almost impossible to push a potato through. The concept is great, but execution is terrible.
scarletini at 3:35PM on 10/08/09