A Catherine Zeta-Jones-Like Eggplant Burlesque at Taxim in Chicago
Melitzanosalata, though it may sound like a rare form of civilization threatening virus, is actually one of the best Greek eggplant spreads I have ever eaten. Most eggplant spreads I've had tend to be slimy—choking them down triggers the gag reflex due to the fact that I imagine this is what the leftover guts of a Gremlin melted in the sun might taste like.
The Melitzanosalata at Taxim, Chicago’s new gourmet Greek spot (by gourmet I mean they don’t serve 1,000 covers a night nor get most of their ingredients delivered via multiple Sysco Tractor Trailers), a charcoal-grilled eggplant purée larded with tahini and studded with crunchy and creamy toasted pine nuts, is more like the kind of velvety purée you’d find at The French Laundry.
It’s so smooth and clean and luxuriantly coating on your tongue, you imagine it must have been run through a sieve five hundred times by a team of trembling sous chefs. Then there's the matter of a sultry smoky essence from the grill, sort of the taste equivalent of a Catherine Zeta-Jones Chicago-esque burlesque of sorts that runs through the spread, making it unforgettable.
There are a lot more complex, well-executed dishes at Taxim, but the balance, skill, and simplicity of this dish is maybe the best example that chef David Schneider is about to become one of Chicago’s culinary stars.
Taxim
1558 N Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, IL 60622 (map)
773-252-1558
taximchicago.com
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7 Comments:
I understand that most store-bought variations of this kind of stuff are usually not the best example, i.e sahara brand babaganoush...but GREMLIN GUTS in the sun? a little dramz no?!
heavymetalpizzaparty at 11:48AM on 08/13/09
Melitzanosalata is baba ganoush by a different name. Like you say, it's simple and delicious. Not only that, it's easier, cheaper, and infinitely more delicious if you just make it at home. While it takes about a half hour to make, it requires very little labor.
I learned this recipe from a Lebanese friend, who in turn learned it from her grandmother. It's tangy, smoky and slightly sweet, with a complexity of flavor belying the simplicity of this recipe.
Take two eggplants with no bruises and throw them directly on top of your gas stovetop or grill. Let them sit on the grill at high heat, turning every five minutes, for about fifteen minutes, or until the eggplants have fully collapsed. Don't worry about charring -- that's what gives baba its smoky flavour. Eggplants can sometimes release liquid as they roast, but it's easy to clean up afterwards.
While the eggplant is roasting, combine a finely chopped garlic clove with the juice of half a lemon and about a tablespoon of tahini in a large mixing bowl.
When the eggplants have collapsed, wrap them in plastic wrap and allow them to steam until they've cooled off – this will make it much easier to remove the charred skin from the flesh of the eggplant. I prefer to do this under cold running water, although many chefs will tell you this reduces the overall smokiness of the dish. Remove the seeds from the flesh as well.
Finally, add the eggplant to the bowl containing the other ingredients, mix thoroughly with a fork, and you're done. If you like, finish it with a little olive oil and a garnish -- like the pine nuts at Taxim.
I love eating baba by itself, but obviously it serves well with pita as well.
eatup at 12:10PM on 08/13/09
@eatup, do you put the eggplants directly on the burner? or do you use a grate of some sort?
engmcmuffin at 12:49PM on 08/13/09
You put the eggplants on your stove as is - on top of the same grate you put your pots and pans on.
Two notes: I forgot to mention you need to add salt. Also, PLEASE don't take my recipe at face value – play with it! I always do.
eatup at 12:54PM on 08/13/09
From what I remember, melitzanosalata is actually different than baba ghanoush in that it *doesn't* have tahini, but rather olive oil and sometimes vinegar, tomatoes, etc.
weheartfood at 1:23PM on 08/13/09
Do not do it one an electric stove. Only over a gas flame. Or broil them.
CJ McD at 1:23PM on 08/13/09
@weheartfood, Hm...to be honest, I've never had (or heard of) melitzanosalata, so my post was a bit premature to say the least. I only based my assertion on Nagrani's description of the dish. Sorry for the misinformation!
eatup at 1:50PM on 08/13/09