Serious Cocktails: Gin-to-Vermouth Ratios in Martinis
"Julia Child preferred an Upside-Down Martini, with five times as much dry vermouth as gin in the glass."
You wouldn’t know it by looking at the way it’s used today, but vermouth was the belle of the mixological ball once upon a time. While vermouth can list details such as “revolutionized the late 19th century cocktail” and “enabled creation of the Manhattan and the martini” on its resume, today it's like the elderly greeters at Wal-Mart, picking up whatever gigs it can get in the years that came after the glory ones.
While vermouth played a major role in countless cocktails from the Gilded Age and beyond, perhaps no other drink has been as tightly connected to its contemporary fortunes as the martini. As Jonathan Miles pointed out in last Sunday’s New York Times, some early incarnations of the martini included equal parts gin and vermouth, and as recently as the 1930s, a two-to-one gin-to-vermouth ratio was the norm. (These drinks typically included a dash of orange bitters, which some may consider sacrilege, but I say hold your tongue until you’ve tried it.)
Some martini predecessors made with sweet vermouth went even further, with recipes calling for two parts of vermouth to one of gin. Indeed, the “dry martini” moniker was originally intended to denote a drink made with dry vermouth rather than sweet, and was completely unrelated to the quantity of vermouth in the glass. But in the 1940s, all that changed—the two-to-one martini began to look about as old-fashioned as a horse and buggy. Why?
Who knows.
Some have theorized that since “drier” martinis are more potent—with less vermouth in the glass, bartenders would pour more gin to keep the drink the same size as before—they became preferred by those seeking more alcoholic bang for the buck. Others have suggested that the middling quality of American vermouth, pretty much the only stuff available during and immediately after the war, may have had something to do with it. Others have said it's much like many other trends and fads—everybody started doing it simply because everybody else was doing it.
Regardless of the cause, the era of the super-dry martini had begun, and droppers, atomizers, and rituals ranging from elaborate to just plain silly became de rigeur every time cocktail hour rolled around.
As Miles notes, not everybody got on board of the less-is-better bandwagon. Julia Child preferred an Upside-Down Martini, with five times as much dry vermouth as gin in the glass. And in recent years, craft-cocktail bars across the country have rediscovered the beauty of vermouth, and have begun serving two-to-one or one-to-one martinis with increasing frequency.
Along with this change in fortune for vermouth comes a change in attitude—bartenders are realizing that as an aromatized wine, vermouth behaves more like Chardonnay than like whiskey—to be served at its best, it needs to be fresh, and kept refrigerated to prolong its short shelf life.
Fewer drinks get people more riled up than the martini, so let’s hear your take on martini formulas. Do you take a twenty-to-one, arid-as-the-desert approach to your martinis, or a vermouth-is-freakin-delicious approach to this old standard? Or does your martini find itself somewhere in between?
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29 Comments:
I don't know the exact ratio used, but I've been known to ask for my martinis "wet." I like vermouth! Where's the fun in a glass of neat gin?
My belief is that people are ever more concerned with appearing sophisticated and making the "correct," tasteful choice--which generally ends up meaning the dryer the better, whether it's chocolate that's 1 million % cacao, or avoiding rieslings, or, in this case, dispensing with the vermouth. It's all very silly.
Michele Humes at 7:23PM on 08/19/09
Ogden Nash would rather dispense with vermouth....
"There is something about a Martini,
A tingle remarkably pleasant;
A yellow, a mellow Martini;
I wish I had one at present.
There is something about a Martini,
Ere the dining and dancing begin,
And to tell you the truth,
It is not the vermouth--
I think that perhaps it's the gin." -
And with One page Cookbooks : 1001 cocktails, you can whip up your own poison the way you like !
http://ramkicooks.blogspot.com/2008/01/1001-cocktails-mixing-cocktails-in.html
Siramki at 7:48PM on 08/19/09
I must admit I kind of hate vermouth. Probably it's because I've never had great stuff; perhaps I'd change my mind if I changed my vermouth. At any rate, a martini for me really is about the quality of the gin (or, gasp, vodka).
A swirl of vermouth around the glass, a goodly poor of gin or vodka shaken with ice and three gorgonzola-stuffed green olives, and I'm a very happy man.
johnmccollum at 9:02PM on 08/19/09
From what I've heard/read, the increased amount of vermouth to gin in martinis of yore were more due to the stankiness of the gin than anything else. Today's gins are very refined, and multiple times distilled.
I used to drink vodka martinis, extra dry. But once I switched over to gin I now prefer a splash of vermouth. Still, no more than a quarter of an ounce. I still would rather taste a good gin than vermouth.
Maybe we don't have any good vermouths here though.
schmonsequences at 9:17PM on 08/19/09
Boy was I surprised when, studying abroad in Italy at 20, I asked for a "martini" at the bar, and was served a glass of vermouth!
producestories at 9:22PM on 08/19/09
"These drinks typically included a dash of orange bitters, which some may consider sacrilege, but I say hold your tongue until you’ve tried it."
Hah! Having recently discovered Improved Holland Gin Cocktails, I can testify that a dash or to of bitters (I'm using someone's homemade Boker's) in an otherwise "dry" martini-like cocktail makes a wonderful addition.
Michael
Mr Manhattan at 9:56PM on 08/19/09
Vermouth, blech.
lambowner at 10:11PM on 08/19/09
please hold the gin, hold the vermouth and make mine vodka....olives, please ..... no offense to gin drinkers....
pooch at 10:37PM on 08/19/09
I used to pour a small measure of Vermouth into a chilled glass, swirl it around, then pour it out. Then I'd pour in the shaken Gin.
NotAmerican at 1:49AM on 08/20/09
I'm pretty disappointed with SE commenters right now
JeffM2001 at 2:05AM on 08/20/09
@NotAmerican - that's how I prefer my martinis. As far as I'm concerned, if it's not gin, it's not a martini.
SconnieGirl at 2:53AM on 08/20/09
My martinis are simple:
2-3oz of good gin
.5oz of good dry vermouth
Optional dash or two of orange bitters
Stirred until cold
Served in a chilled cocktail glass
Garnished with 1 or 3 olives (never 2)
jbramley at 8:23AM on 08/20/09
I like some vermouth in my drink or it's just a glass of gin. I ate a restaurant that used droppers once (Bern's Steak House) and I thought it was pretty silly.
redfish at 8:27AM on 08/20/09
I prefer a 3:1 ratio with a dash of orange bitters, stirred and strained, if a good vermouth (such as Dolin or Noilly Prat) can be used.
Certainly not trying to push a brand, but I would recommend the vodka martini drinkers try using Plymouth gin if interested in venturing into the gin martini realm, it's very smooth and the botanicals don't hit you across the face like a Tanqueray or Beefeater. I enjoy Beefeater martinis more and more these days but Plymouth was my gateway gin martini and still something I find enjoyable (along with it being great for all kinds of cocktails).
skb104 at 8:58AM on 08/20/09
Most people who claim to hate vermouth haven't had good quality, freshly opened vermouth. That half empty bottle of Martini & Rossi that's been sitting under the bar for ten years is going to taste awful.
Like with anchovies (another delicious food with a bad reputation), at some point it became fashionable to hate vermouth and to state this loudly and often.
My preferred martini:
3:1 Gin:Vermouth
Twist of lemon peel
Benitowine at 9:07AM on 08/20/09
I can see the orange bitters. I used to be firmly in the pass-the-vermouth-bottle-over-the-shaker camp, but since buying a decent vermouth, started slowly increasing the amount of vermouth. Currently, my martini is one and a half shots of gin (2 1/4 oz) and 1/4 shot (3/8 oz) each of dry vermouth and Campari.
MarvinDog at 10:28AM on 08/20/09
Nothing beats a Gin martini, or Vodka Martini. However, I do prefer my Gin dry. I most commonly order a Belvedere Vodka Dirty, 3 Olives...When I feel good, I get it with a splash of Jalapeño juice...w00t!
thefoodassassin at 10:50AM on 08/20/09
I'm a 3:1 gin:vermouth person myself. But I like mine dirty as well...just a drop of olive juice but hold the olive.
expat39520 at 10:54AM on 08/20/09
I take a medium-dry martini, with the vermouth swirled through the ice in the shaker but discarded before adding the gin. As for the base alcohol, a vodka martini is as much a martini as an appletini or a chocolate martini.
Olives, incidentally are better than twists.
shoneyjoe at 10:59AM on 08/20/09
I've tried, but I'm not a vermouth person. Drier the better.
Just introduce my Sapphire to the bottle of vermouth, and I'm happy--no more is necessary.
bdf76 at 11:52AM on 08/20/09
A few squirts from a vermouth mister and your good. By the second one, I usually just skip it all together ;)
GrimChef at 12:35PM on 08/20/09
I take a swig of vermouth between gobfuls of chilled gin.
It's the only way to drink a proper martini.
oh_no_eric at 12:36PM on 08/20/09
Brings to mind one of my favorite lines from the TV series MASH:
"I'd like a dry martini, Mr. Quoc, a very dry martini. A very dry, arrid, barren, desiccated, veritable dustbowel of a martini. I want a martini that could be declared a disaster area. Mix me just such a martini." -- Hawkeye
Lorenzo at 1:10PM on 08/20/09
ice cold Bombay Sapphire and I raise my glass towards Italy. that's about enought Vermouth for me.
jennywinker at 5:13PM on 08/20/09
I go 2:1 for my martinis. I prefer Junipero Gin, Lillet Blanc for vermouth (though I've just discovered Dolin), a dash of Regan's Orange bitters, and a lemon twist. There's nothing better.
Marvin at 6:55PM on 08/20/09
Yeah as a Gin (sweet) lover I only like the smallest splash of Vermmie.
hungrychristel at 4:45PM on 08/21/09
OK. Let's get a few things straight.
1. A "dry" martini isn't called "dry" because it doesn't have any vermouth. Rather, the moniker comes from the recipe--Dry gin (as opposed to Old Tom) and dry vermouth.
2. People who say they don't like vermouth have never tasted fresh, cold vermouth.
3. Good, FRESH, cold vermouth (Dolin, or a few others) is fleshy, pretty, and bright, and fills in all of the gaps in the gin. The flavor is light, though, so you need more to get to balance. I use a 1:1 ratio for a dry Martini, but that is because I like the fleshiness more than others. Also, a drink composed of an ounce of $30 gin and an ounce of $13 vermouth is cheaper than one composed of 2 ounces of $30 gin.
4. Dash of orange bitters, both to maintain the drink's legacy as a capital-c Cocktail and provide a bright edge.
5. Stir (to avoid cloudiness and thin mouthfeel) in a good thin mixing glass or a shaker tin, with a lot of ice (fill the mixing vessel!) and strain (julep strainer if you can find one).
6. A lemon twist, expressed, rimmed, and discarded, appears to be the current garnishing orthodoxy. If you must have olives, make sure they are COLD. Nothing like mucking with a drink's temperature like putting three huge warm bombs into the precious, glacial elixir.
7. Enjoy!
schnook at 11:27AM on 08/23/09
Good fresh vermouth makes all the difference to making a great and delicious aperitif, martini and martinez, even and especially at 1:1 ratio.
A straight 2oz to 3oz pour of spirit is a sufficiently discordant if not dangerous way to start a meal and/or end an evening.
olives and cheese-stuffed olives are a treasure, best enjoyed on the side. how sad to limit to what fits on a toothpick!
Eric Seed at 10:36PM on 08/24/09
A big fad that's typical of Martini yuppies is to swish the vermouth around in the glass, pour it down the drain, then fill it up with cold gin or nowadays, vodka. Like Schnook says, good cold vermouth makes all the difference. You wouldn't be pouring it down the drain if you didn't buy that cheap bottle of vermouth.
ChefR0bert at 2:05PM on 08/25/09