Critic-Turned-Cook Goes Job Hunting
Critic Turned Cook follows former Seattle Post-Intelligencer food critic Leslie Kelly on her journey away from the keyboard and into the kitchen. Take it away, Leslie!
There’s nothing more depressing than trying to find a job, especially in this depressed economy. Ever since I decided to make the leap from being a food critic to working as a cook, I’ve managed to land some plum spots using my connections. Because, you know, it’s not what you know; it’s who you know.
Still, I really wanted to find a position without dangling my well-seasoned resumé as a professional eater. Fat chance, right?
I started where most cooks do: putting in my application at a fast food restaurant. And immediately started getting cold feet. As much as I admired the community-oriented business model of Seattle-based Dick’s—they pay living wages, benefits and give scholarships to college-bound employees—I couldn’t picture myself flipping burgers at one in the morning. (Heck, it’d probably take me two years before I worked into that prime shift anyway.)
I scoured Craigslist and found few jobs for which I was qualified. Dishwasher/prep cook? Maybe. Some of the listings seemed to be expecting a whole lot, while others aimed low. I thought about applying to be a "fun personality" at a café. But then I saw they wanted somebody who could "walk and chew gum at the same time, flip eggs and pancakes" and—this was the deal-breaker—get to work by six in the morning.
What’s heartening about cruising through the culinary classifieds is seeing that there are so many options for skilled cooks. It’s not all about white linen tablecloths—there are also cafés, bistros, dive bars. I've also met people who work as private chefs and others who bounce easily between kitchens.
It seems part of the draw with being a professional cook is that you can be nomadic. If Seattle’s gray skies don’t suit, then you can relocate to sunny climes. When I floated the idea of spending the winter cooking on Maui to my otherwise very supportive husband, he said: “Honey don't.”
“You're having way too much fun,” he protested.
Okay, back down to Earth. I will continue to send my slim cooking resume around, citing my experience working at Tom Douglas restaurants, at Shultzy’s, and in my ‘hood, at Betty.
Anybody want to share suggestions on how to get your foot in the kitchen door? I know I’m new to it, but I am willing to do just about anything.
About the author: Leslie Kelly is the former restaurant critic for the defunct Seattle Post-Intelligencer. She's been cooking around the city and chronicling her journey from pen to pan for Serious Eats. She also blogs at LeslieKellyWhiningandDining.blogspot.com.
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13 Comments:
About 10 years ago I worked as the breakfast cook at a nursing home. It was really fun. I had no prior experience except as a home cook. I worked from 5am-1pm, 3 days on and three days off. I'd start by making a huge batch of hot cereal, and then make whatever else was on that day's menue-- french toast for 100, pancakes for 100. It was also my responsibility to set up the trays, the juices, the milks, and dish out the food. And then there would be stuff that I'd start for the lunch cook. I really enjoyed that job for some reason.
Trilby at 1:56PM on 08/13/09
Willing to do just about anything except work early mornings or late nights? Good luck with that.
artychoke at 2:57PM on 08/13/09
Enthusiasm goes a long way. I got my first kitchen job in a fine-dining restaurant fresh out of culinary school with no other kitchen experience in large part because I had a good attitude and was excited about the restaurant's tasting menu concept.
And sorry to tell you, but artychoke is right. Early mornings or late nights are going to be required at some point.
croquecamille at 3:02PM on 08/13/09
I'm up for working late and/or early... just not so sure if I could muster the "fun personality" at 6 in the a.m.
Leslie Kelly at 5:34PM on 08/13/09
You are gonna be up against a few things the first I see not your lack of experience but the fact that people are gonna see you as just there for a bit to write things then gone.
Also kiss your nights weekends etc goodbye they are not yours anymore.
It will be interesting. I will keep reading. It would be really cool if when you write about the job search you not only describe the jobs you find but also state the wages being offered for whats expected. Definitely a chance to shine a light on that.
tyler durden at 7:22PM on 08/13/09
Delancey's -- the new pizza place in Ballard is looking for someone to do prep work. delanceyseattle@gmail.com
Bunnee at 10:57PM on 08/13/09
I landed a job as a cook due to a firing at a Freebird's in Austin. Turns out, its NOT the easiest kitchen to start in. I think I actually shed a tear of frustration once. I swore off foodservice--loving food does not equal loving restaurant life. Then I worked a painfully dull job at a Panera Bread in Arlington. Swore off food service again. Now I wrangled my way into a new job, as a Sushi Chef at a high-end sushi bar. Its an incredible amount of work and has few pluses, but some of us are destined(read: doomed) to kitchens. Its a mindset, and one that doesn't involve hiring skills. The trick is not quitting your job, but you get a job in a kitchen on a whim of a manager--they'll hire anyone if and only if they feel like it.
johndoughy at 1:12AM on 08/14/09
Allow me to clarify: I was told by a manager he'd never hire culinary school grads because they think cleaning is below them and have better ways to make the food. I also saw a sushi chef applicant rejected because he was tall(sushi bars are small places, and elbows can get dangerous). Qualifications are a waste of time, as you will always be working with a careless professional chef, a neatfreak, a slob, and the owner's kid, who will kill any magic the job may have held. Managers hire in restaurants less like Sifu in Kung Fu Panda and more like Yubaba in Spirited Away.
johndoughy at 1:20AM on 08/14/09
apply often.... I got my first job after applying everyday to every job I could find whether I was qualified or not.
radioface at 11:13AM on 08/14/09
Thanks for the tip Bunnee!
I've got an interview Tuesday morning. Wish me luck!
Leslie Kelly at 11:18AM on 08/14/09
I'm having a difficult time landing a culinary job after graduating this year from a great culinary school in NYC. I graduated with honors with a focus on upscale Southern Mexican cuisine, specifically that of the Yucatan. I have read many books about this cuisine and I am continuing to practice my skills on a weekly basis. At every trail/stage that I attend in the NY/NJ area, I exude enthusiasm, knowledge yet humbleness and proper culinary technique. Each one of these restaurants has offered me a position, but they all want me to work from 8am-5pm.
I am in my 20s, living on my own far from family and friends and currently working in the finance field. Making a career switch has to be gradual, not sudden. I would not be able to survive without job security to pay my bills. That is why in the beginning, I would only be able to work part-time from about 3pm to close during the week and all day on the weekends. That space allows for more than a standard 40 hour work week, but all of these places are only looking for a prep cook for the morning shift. I understand the cut in pay, the change of livelihood associated with becoming a chef, and the sacrifices it takes, however, I have not had any realistic opportunities to become the great chef that I am meant to be.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
ChefR0bert at 11:26AM on 08/19/09
"I have not had any realistic opportunities to become the great chef that I am meant to be".
that, sir, right there, is your problem. it sounds as though you've had plenty of opportunities thrown at you--but, none of them have matched your fairytale version of how you've decided that your culinary career should pan out. the life is all about paying your dues, bub. it doesn't matter if you've graduated at the top of your class--being able to thrown down, out in the real world, on the line, day in and day out, with passion, dedication, vision, burns, and sweat is what weeds out the dilettantes from the chefs. it sounds like you need a reality check.
meatscissors at 1:29PM on 10/30/09
very inspiring words... thank you. i am guilty of expecting too much, but i've gotten better. i've recently accepted a position that deviated from my initial expectations, yet still maintained some of the things i was looking for. im very happy where i am now. cheers!
ChefR0bert at 11:23AM on 11/04/09