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What is Chinese Brown Sauce Made Of?

20090701brownsauce.jpg

Photograph by Robyn Lee

Brown sauce: the beloved basic in every Chinese take-out joint in America. But what's in it? It seems like there's a different recipe wherever you look—for example, compare the recipes found at Eat Close to Home, Epicurious, and Rasa Malaysia. Besides the requisite soy sauce and oyster sauce, I found variations including beef broth, corn starch, potato flour, Hoisin sauce, ketchup, and, oh, about five hundred other ingredients. At food blog The Heavy Table, Kelly Hailstone tries to find out what brown sauce is made of by calling local Chinese restaurants, but finds no answers. Even her own mother, a native of Hong Kong, wouldn't tell her.

I'm not really looking for the authentic stuff here, just the sauce I find on my $5 lunch special from Monday to Friday. Has anyone ever figured out what's exactly in this generic binder of chicken and broccoli?

30 Comments:

When I make my own (and it generally comes out tasting pretty damn close), I use: soy sauce, mirin, minced garlic, honey, sesame oil, and cornstarch as needed.

I usually do 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1/2 cup chicken broth, a couple cloves on minced garlic, and 2 tsp or so of arrowroot or cornstarch.

well your recipes don't sound TOO scarey!

I'm always reminded of the answer I overheard at the Wong Kei in London when asked about its ingredients: "It's brown. It's sauce."

I'm sure there is hoisin and oil in the mixture but I can't seem to get it perfected.

It's a mix of soya and oh, yah, "brown". Is it the same "brown" in English brown sauce? Best not to ask...

Just try different combination and ration of ingredients you already have, the base is comprised of mostly soy sauce, sugar, oyster sauce, broth, rice wine and a bit of cornstarch. or at least the version I make at home does. but try add different stuff to get the taste you're familiar with. Just experiment and taste to adjust to your likings

I work at a few chinese restaurants when I was a little younger. "brown sauce" is basically a play on watered(brothed, more accurately)-down soy sauce.

The Chinese restaurants I worked at would pre-combine at least a 5-gallon bucket of it at a time. It starts out with 1/3 Kikkoman soy sauce and 2/3 chicken stock. Between a cup and a pint of sugar and MSG (or a substitute) is added to each 5 gallon bucket along with about a cup of minced garlic. That should give you a good place to start and I don't recall it having any other ingredients (I didn't cook nor make the sauce, but being a food fan at heart, I would watch the cooks make it).

When they actually cook up the dish, pre-mixed brown sauce is heated up and thickened with corn or potato starch.

...Oh and I left out a pint of rice wine in the base recipe, thought there was something else.

Serious question: I admit to enjoying egg fu yung sometimes. Some restaurants top it with the standard brown sauce being discussed here, others with something lighter brown in color and kind of resembling a milk gravy. I much prefer the latter. Anybody know how to make it?

Valerie's recipe is close to what we use, and seems to be spot-on.

I make mine with soy, hoisin sauce, cornstarch, chickenbroth.

SUCH a good question, and i'm so happy that there are really good answers listed here. In a similar vein, does anyone know what's in the white sauce (usually used in lighter dishes with shrimp and vegetables)???

My mom taught me it's soy sauce, garlic, cornstarch slurry to thicken. Very simple. Sometimes I add other stuff to mix it up.

@ mh330 - it's just cornstarch slurry added to the juices of whatever dish as it's cooking.

I hope this clears things up a bit:

"GLOP: A versatile substance with a pivotal role in the cuisine known as
Chinese-American, where it functions as a binding, flavoring, and
lubricating agent all in one. Not a juice, not a sauce, not a gravy,
not a starch, and not quite an emulsion, it becomes an element of
presentation with the addition of red food coloring."

from The Devil's Food Dictionary: A Pioneering Culinary Reference Work Consisting Entirely of Lies (Frogchart Press)

You're all wrong. It's crack, only savorier.

Mine is very similar to tideandthyme's! I just do two parts broth to one part soy sauce (low sodium for me, though), lots of minced garlic, and 1 TB of cornstarch mixed with a few drops of water. If I feel like spicing it up I'll add Sriracha (so incredible); to make it a little sweeter I'll add some honey or apple/orange juice, whatever I have on hand. But I think that base is pretty versatile.

As with most Asian food that I consume, ignorance is really bliss. I don't know what it is, but if I'm still alive, please don't tell me (and yes, I am from Southeast Asia, so this isn't a racist statement).

Good to know that that sauce probably isn't vegetarian!

I want to thank you for this post - I was just wondering this the other day!

@wookie- Amen! I'm also pretty sure that those little Chinese donuts are also laced with crack...only sweeter and greasier

@ wookie...."savorier"....somehow I know exactly what you you mean.

I use DARK soy - more accurately - Mushroom Soy - in my "brown" sauce.

It's darker and richer and we like the flavor of it. I took a class - a lot of years ago - from Ken Hom and he introduced us to a lot of ingreients that I hadn't used before.

I forgot one other item - several people mentioned using chicken stock - I use homemade beef stock made with carmelized onionis and roasted garlic as well as the mushroom soy.....

@AnaPowell I generally assume that brown foods, when ordered in restaurants, aren't vegetarian.

white pepper is in there.

Hi Grace - thanks for linking to me. I checked out the other recipes, and will tell you that beef broth is definitely not in the typical Chinese brown sauce because Chinese restaurants don't usually have beef broth. What they might use is chicken broth or stock. Other than that, it's pretty much soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, starch, some sesame oil, some white pepper, and Chinese rice wine depending on the dish. Dark soy sauce might be added too if you want color. Do check out my recipe and see if you like it. :)

All of these recipes sound so professional! I'm not sure if the $5 special uses anything exotic, though. Soy sauce, cornstarch, some kind of oil, and definitely garlic.

There was a place that I used to eat at on 7th Avenue and 30-something Street in NYC (they've since closed). Their brown sauce was the most addictive. I used to buy some on Friday nights to take home and eat on Saturday.

Their brown sauce probably had a Herculean amount of MSG in it. Whenever you ate there your heartbeat would race, you'd be agitated easily, and your energy level would increase. I ate there for a month straight one time and had to withdraw myself slowly.
Scott

I'm so trying this tonight!! Thank you all you guys!

I just made my own version based off of Claypot's version, and it turned out really well!!

1/2 cup Kikkoman soy sauce
1 1/2 cup vegetable broth
2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp garlic salt
2 tbps (rounded) flour

I just heated up the broth and soy sauce, added everything except for the flour, and then slowly added the flour bit by bit while whisking quickly and kept whisking till it thickened. Even my (picky) husband liked it!!! Now I'm gonna put it on my veggie and seafood stir-fry :D

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