• Share:
  • Send to Reddit
  • Send to StumbleUpon
  • Send to Facebook
  • Send to del.icio.us
  • Send to digg

City Flavor Guide: Cincinnati

cincinnati-greetings-from.jpg

Editor's note: For our Cincinnati City Flavor Guide we serious eaters have turned to Cincinnati Magazine food editor Donna Covrett. And why not? Donna says she spent her childhood "journaling her family’s meals" before "spending 20 years as a pastry chef." She has spent the last ten years chronicling the Cincinnati food scene, first as the dining editor for Cincinnati CityBeat, then at Cincinnati Magazine since 2005. According to Donna, Cincinnati has long had a vibrant food scene that extends well beyond chili five-ways and the seriously delicious Graeter's ice cream. Take it away, Donna. —EL

Chili

20090729-cincinnati-chili.jpg

Photograph from puroticorico on Flickr

Spankin' good five-ways. Yes, we’re talking about food—Serious eats, Cincinnati style. When you pull up a stool at any counter of the dozens of independently owned and operated chili parlors in the Greater Cincinnati region (more per capita than…anywhere) and order a five-way, the only immoderate indulgence you’ll be consenting to is a plate of spaghetti layered with chili, onions, beans, and cheese. Created in 1922 by local Greek immigrants, the thin meat sauce perfumed with cinnamon and allspice is closer to its pastitsio roots than "chili" as conceived in the American southwest, and the merits of individual brands and parlors are endlessly debated by Cincinnati residents and visitors alike. Skyline Chili is sweeter and (supposedly) contains chocolate; Gold Star Chili spicier with a rich reddish hue. Cayenne pepper lingers on the palate from Camp Washington Chili, and Empress Chili—the original—is thin and dark with a prominent allspice smack.

Skyline Chili: multiple locations; search at skylinechili.com. Gold Star Chili: multiple locations; search at goldstarchili.com. Camp Washington Chili: 3005 Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati OH 45225 (map); 513-541-0061. Empress Chili: multiple locations; Google map

Goetta

But if you can’t rock the five-way, consider our other regional fave, goetta. Similar to scrapple (c’mon, any serious foodie knows what that is—or if not, refer to Wikipedia), goetta is made from ground pork shoulder, pinhead oats, onion, herbs, and spices. Like its culinary cousin, it’s formed into loaves, sliced, and fried (in bacon drippings if you’re going whole hog). Local diners such as the wildly popular Tucker’s Restaurant (family owned and operated for 63 years) serve it for breakfast graced with a fried egg. You’ll find it on double-decker sandwiches, in burgers, dogs, and even fudge. Like our local chili, we have entire festivals around the stuff. Unconventional, sure…but that’s just how we roll.

Tucker’s Restaurant: 1637 Vine Street, Cincinnati OH 45202 (map); 513-721-7123.

Fine Dining

Don’t be so quick to roll your eyes at our rube-ish ways. Fine dining? We’ve got that too. I’d stand both Nicola's and Boca up against any contemporary Italian restaurant in New York City. At Nicola’s, the enormously talented chef Cristian Pietoso makes luxurious, silky, hand-made pastas and administers to meats with the care attended to a lover. At Boca, chefs David Falk and Jono Fries tuck quail eggs and ricotta into ethereal pillows of ravioli, and serve a braised pork shank on polenta that’s nothing short of orgasmilicious man food.

Chef David Cook has been walking the culinary high wire and stalking the gaps for 10 years at his restaurant, Daveed's at 934. And praise the lard for chef Sean Daly of Hugo—the man has a way with pig. Cured, smoked, or cooked, it lends a distinct flavor to his low-country menu steeped in both soul and contemporary swank. Orchid's at Palm Court is a benchmark of fine dining and fine service. Housed in the gilded splendor and lavish French art deco finery of the Hilton Netherland, chef Todd Kelly weaves intricately arranged melodies of prime cuts, colorful produce, fine grains, and delicate sauces into a savory whirlygig of dishes.

Nicola's: 1420 Sycamore Street, Cincinnati OH 45202 (map); 513-721-6200. Boca: 3200 Madison Road, Cincinnati OH 45209 (map); 513-542-2022. Daveed's at 934: 934 Hatch Street, Cincinnati, OH 45202 (map; 513-721-2665. Hugo: 3235 Madison Road, Cincinnati, OH 45209 (map); 513-321-4846. Orchid's at Palm Court: 35 West Fifth Street, Cincinnati OH 45202 (map); 513-421-9100.

Local

Locavore? We're in the Midwest after all—everyone has two degrees of agrarian separation. At Nectar, chef Julie Francis creates thoughtful, innately feminine dishes that seem to spring from the loins of Mother Earth, and packs her neighborhood restaurant for the twice-monthly dinner club featuring a single ingredient done five ways. With the local grower / artisan present, it's educational, personal, and memorable dining.

Nectar: 1000 Delta Avenue, Cincinnati OH 45208 (map); 513-929-0525.

Ice Cream

20090729-cincinnati-graeters.jpg

Photograph from surlygirl on Flickr

No serious eating in Cincinnati is realized without ice cream. Woven into our dining landscape, we are home to award winning handcrafted ice creams such as Graeter's (three words: black raspberry chip) and Aglamesis Brothers, and a dozen seasonal creamy whip stands (my summer is not complete without a pineapple milkshake and hot mett standing at the window of Mr. Gene's Dog House). Hungry? Excellent.

Graeter's: multiple locations; view at graeters.com. Aglamesis Brothers: 3046 Madison Road, Cincinnati, OH 45209 (map); 513-531-5196; 9899 Montgomery Road, Cincinnati, OH 45242 (map); 513-791-7082. Mr. Gene's Dog House: 3703 Beekman Street, Cincinnati, OH 45223 (map); 513-541-7636.

23 Comments:

I recently drove through Cincinnati and stopped at a Skyline Chili. I'd always wanted to try it, so I ordered a three-way. It was edible, but it wasn't the best thing I've ever had. I think I expected better flavor from the chili to spice up plain noodles and bland cheese, but it just tasted like cinnamon and nutmeg - which I don't mind, but it wasn't enough to carry the dish. As a result, it wasn't very satisfying.

If I ever eat at another Skyline, I think I'll try the full five-way and see if it's any better.

I'd heard wonderful things about Skyline, but I think it's highly overrated. I've made Cincinnati chili from a recipe in Jane and Michael Stern's Square Meals and it was MUCH better than what I had at Skyline! I've also made it from a recipe that appeared in Cook's Country and it was better than Skyline's. That recipe was a little easier than the Stern's recipe.

I know this is all subjective...but how are you going to talk about fine dining in Cincinnati and not mention Honey in Northside. That place routinely blows my mind.

Also, we have a lot of breweries. Most of them are delicious, a few are not.

I grew up in Cincinnati but no longer live there, and Skyline and Graeters are must-haves whenever I return. I do think that Cincinnati chili is sort of an acquired taste - so many people I've told to try it didn't get it. It is unusual. Graeters is the best ice cream on this planet! They are known for their "chip" flavors because instead of using actual chips, they just pour in streams of chocolate as the ice cream mixes and it breaks off into various size chunks. I have found 3 inch chunks of chocolate in my ice cream!!!

I love Cincinnati chili. In my opinion, no one does it better than Skyline; they are a model of perfect food service. Graeter's is pretty good, and yes their blackberry chocolate chip is as good as billed.

The Hungry Traveler visited Skyline Chili

http://havestomachwilltravel.com/2009/05/21/skyline-chili-ohio/

I am probably the only Cincinnatian that dislikes both Skyline AND Graeters. Graeters just doesn't compare to Aglamesis Brothers to me. Aglamesis also has an adorable icecream parlor decor that I can't resist.

Also, how can you forget to mention Terry's Turf Club? Consider to be the best burgers in Cincinnati (if not Ohio) and definitely lives up to that claim!

I am so thrilled to see that you mentioned Tuckers! Carla and Joe work so hard to serve some kick ass diner cuisine, and they rarely get a nod, so that is terrific!

I am with Adrian, I don't know how you can not mention not only Honey in Northside, but Slims as well. Slims is such a unique and savory dining experience that any foodie would cherish.

I also question mentioning Nicola's but not a mention of Jean-Robert? Lavamatic? Jean-Ro? Hello? He's only the greatest chef in Cincinnati.

@Katy66: Pigall's has been closed since February 27th, at which time Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel severed ties with his former business partner as well as all of the restaurants you mentioned. He is not currently the chef of a restaurant, but in a teaching capacity at Midwest Culinary Institute. Quality & service at both JeanRo Bistro and Lavomatic have slid seriously downhill since his February departure.

To all: Obviously, not a comprehensive list, but just a guideline to serious eating in Cincinnati. As we all know, there are so many more!

I grew up in Chicago, so for me, chili is as follows:

1) Beef. Thick cuts of beef. Simmered for aeons until they fall apart when touched.
2) Beans. Kidney beans.
3) Tomato sauce.
4) Spices and peppers. The hotter the better.
5) Onions, cheese and sour cream on top.

Enjoyed the Cincinnati foodie update! Keep them coming...

T - 50 miles North

I moved to Cincinnati two years ago, and dutifully visited Skyline. It is horrible! It's just a fast food chain, and is an insult both to chili and to spaghetti. Skip it. I think it's all conceived as a mean trick that the locals play on newbies like me. (Many locals have told me that "it's an acquired taste" - not one I want to acquire!)

What I love, though, is Findlay Market. From spring thorugh fall, local growers populate the outside farmers' market, and inside all year round are great seafood counters, Amish poultry, to-die-for pork and sausages, and a great spice place. If you're cooking in Cincinnati, you should start here.

@cmwriter 2005 - sadly, you're absolutely correct about the Jean-Robert departure - Lavomatic is a far cry from what it used to be. I haven't made it to any of his other former restaurants since he split, but I can imagine.

I spent about a month in Cincinnati for work a few years ago. First time I went to Skyline, I thought it was mediocre and didn't get it. Then I went a second time and it wasn't bad. After the third time I was hooked. It grows on you. Also remember the commericals instructing you how to eat it. Cut into pieces rather than swirl it around a fork.

A three way with hot sauce and crumbled oyster crackers on top. That is a fine lunch

Also really enjoyed Daveeds a few times when I was there.

We stopped at Skyline on our way to Cedar Point because I wanted to try Cincinnati chili. Ugh. Awful. It stuck with us, and not in a good way. I don't know how people can eat that stuff regularly.

Steak n' Shake does a chili 5-way, and though it isn't the world's most perfect food, it's still better than that crap we had at Skyline.

This interesting topic came about two weeks too late! We are Canadians and stopped in downtown Cincinnati for the night - it was July 4th and we wandered around and walked a bridge over to a big Munich-like beer hall and strolled around the waterfront. We enjoyed it so much that on the way back, we stopped in Covington because we had read about the Mainstrasse district. We ate at a "German" restaurant called, Warsteiner (at least that is what the name on a table umbrella on the patio said.) We all wanted to taste the local food and we ordered different kinds of Schnitzel, potato pancake and red cabbage. Without a doubt, it was one of the worst meals I have ever eaten. Everything was inedible, not one of the four of us was able to finish our meal. We were bitterly disappointed - the waitress was sweet, but did not follow through and ask why none of us ate our meals. I suppose we should have complained, but after an eleven hour drive, none of us had the heart. I will save this article for next year!

I guess Skyline chili is really an acquired taste, to someone like me who hasn't acquired the taste for it, it's just over cooked cheap spaghetti and watery chili. Graeters on the other hand, I love. Specially the strawberry chip, watermelon sorbet, and peach.

Cincinnati is a tradition-bound place and may have more restaurants that are simply "resting on their laurels" than other cities of its size and demographics. It's not unusual to encounter people who admit to patronizing mediocre restaurants solely because they remember them as the place they took their high school prom date, or where the family ate on Sundays back in the 1960s when great-grandma was still alive.

To bareneed, I know the bad restaurant you're talking about, and am puzzled how it remains in business. It's particularly ironic that in this ethnically German community, the best German food--which you also happened upon--is from a chain: see
http://www.hofbrauhausnewport.com/about.html

@CholeA - thank you for responding. We did not eat at Hofbrauhaus, but we pass through the area every year and we will try it next time. As I said, we are just passing through (it is about the mid point to Charleston, S.C.) and we are tired because of the number of hours sitting in the car, but we loved the atmosphere of the city and will certainly return.

Cincinnati food is overrated. From it's Chili, to its pizza to its ice cream. It's all fair, but nothing outstanding. @ChloeA is exactly right. Cincinnati is pretty conservative an very much so about tradition. I lived on the Kentucky side of the river for 5 years but worked in Cincinnati and when I travel there now, there is not one restaurant I am just dying to visit. I even have a hard time making recommendations to people who assume I would know loads of great places to eat after living there. Sadly, if I do suggest something, I always feel the need to qualify it with, "But this was 4 years ago, it might not be any good now."

Yay cincinnati! No, i don't do the cincy style chili thing either. coneys are pretty good. Love graeters and goetta. But come on, we've got Jungle Jims and nothing beats that. I only live 5 minutes away :)

bareneed: Bahahah Warsteiner is a brand of beer. You stopped at the Hofbrauhaus Newport which is authentic German food. There are only three of them, one in Munich (the original) one in Newport Kentucky (this is the one you were at) and one in Las Vegas. All of their beer is imported from the Munich resturant. Its unfortuante that you did not enjoy your meal as it is a favorite!

In Covington's MainStrasse, the German restaurant is Wertheim's.

People go to Skyline because it's all they know, but it doesn't compare to the real chili parlors in Cincinnati -- Price Hill, Camp Washington, Blue Ash and the 30 or so other independantly owned mom and pop legitimate chili parlors in town. Judging Cincinnati Chili by going to Skyline (or Goldstar) is like judging Hamburgers by going to McDonalds. Or judging New York City by going to Times Square. Or judging America by listening to Paris Hilton.

@bareneed Warsteiner = beer, Wertheim's=lousy

The Hofbrauhaus in Newport, the Munich-style beer house is a replica of the Hofbrauhaus in Munich. This used to be the only Hofbrauhaus in the U.S. until they built one in Pittsburgh. Hofbrauhaus and Mecklenburg Gardens are Cincinnati's better choices for German food. (Or come back for one of the many Oktoberfests).

Add a comment:

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment:

 

HTML Hints

Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>

Comment Guidelines

Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.

If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.