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‘Top Chef Masters,’ Ep. 3: Offal on the Street

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Last week’s episode of Top Chef Masters showed that competition can be downright warm and fuzzy. While Graham and Wylie each vowed to undo the other, their tag-teaming antics showed it was all in good fun. And before the judging, all four chefs baked cookies together! So many hugs. So much teamwork.

This week’s episode was a very different story.

Contestants

Rick Bayless
Frontera Grill, Topolobampo
Charity: Frontera Farmer Foundation

Cindy Pawlcyn
Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, Go Fish, and Mustards Grill
Charity: Community Health Clinic Ole

Wilo Benet
Pikayo, Payá, Varita, Puerto Rico Governor's Mansion
Charity: San Jorge Children's Foundation

Ludo Lefebvre
L’Orangerie
Charity: C.H.A.S.E. for Life

Warning: Spoilers ahead.

Their heated battle, after the jump.

The Quickfire Challenge: Palates and Palettes

Each of the four chefs drew knives that revealed a colored blade, and were told to use only that color in their dish. They were judged by a panel of food writers and photographers—women, we were told, who "spend their lives thinking about how food looks."

Cocksure Ludo Lefebvre worked with a palette of red—steak tartare with tomato, watermelon, and a beet juice to pour over the top. But the tomato never made it out of the fridge, and the waiters forgot the beet juice. When they ran out with it, four minutes later, the judges still weren't impressed. "Would this have been more appealing with the beet juice?" Kelly asked. Their answer was clear. "No."

Better were Cindy Pawlcyn's grits under yellow curry, and Rick Bayless's beautiful bamboo-roasted green veggies with a tomatillo-based mole verde. But the winner was Wilo Benet, with a smoked salmon tartare in a lovely lake of tomato-laced coconut milk—even though he forgot to take off the metal mold. (Hey Wilo—that's silver, not orange.)

The Elimination Challenge: Offal On The Street

The chefs were then prepped for their elimination challenge: making street food for a crowd at Universal Studios, each using a different protein. Not too hard, right? Until the meats were unveiled: tripe, pig's ear, tongue, and beef heart. While the eternally peppy Bayless seemed quite pleased ("I love tongue!"), Lefebvre all but flew into a rage. ("Of course I know how to cook pig's ear! I am French! In France you have to cook everything!")

Pawlcyn got to work on a menudo stew, and Wilo Benet revised a Puerto Rican sandwich, stuffing beef hearts and rich cheese sauce into a pita. With Bayless clearly in his sights, Lefebvre declared that he was making a pig's ear quesadilla. ("I can do Mexican! I am going to beat Bayless at his own game!")

But he consulted Bayless on ingredients, accidentally let his chopped pig's ear form a solid block, and couldn't quite get those quesadillas to cook. "Have you ever made quesadillas before?" the judges asked. Lefebvre snickered but didn't answer.

The final verdict: Bayless's bacon, chorizo, and tongue tacos were a huge hit. "I would have another one right now," declared the often-persnickety Gael Greene. Pawlcyn's tripe stew: tender, but underseasoned. Benet's pita sandwiches: yummy, but with too many ingredients, and a limp pita that should have been toasted. And the quesadillas? Well, they weren't quite quesadillas. "This seems like a grilled cheese... with pig's ear," chuckled James Oseland. That looks about right.

After some (not particularly suspenseful) deliberation, Bayless took the prize. He beamed from ear to ear. "How much did you pay the judges?" grumbled Lefebvre—always the good sportsman.

The real story here was in the clash of character. This episode was crafted as a battle of good and evil: the big-hearted Puerto Rican who teared up when talking about charity; the affable Northern Californian who, even after her loss, said she "couldn't wait to cook tripe again"; the unfailingly lovable Bayless... and the surly, oily, insufferable Frenchman who whined about pig's ears, dismissed the other chefs with a snort, and yelled at Bayless when he tried to help him box up his food.

Bayless stuck to what he knew, and won. Lefebvre let his ego get in the way, and went down in flames. It's pretty certain that the producers, always with a heavy hand in the Top Chef pot, set it up this way. But it's still satisfying to watch the forces of good triumph. At least until the next round.

What did you think? Was justice served?

28 Comments:

I think that something other than ears should have been chosen as an ingredient. Whoever got stuck with that was going to be at a grievous disadvantage. Testicles would have been better.

Stop and think about it. What would you have done with pig's ears? They are basically gristle encased in leather.

Having said all of this, Lefebvre isn't half the cook or the man his countryman Hubert Kelelr is and he blew himself out of the water. Did I enjoy watching that? Not especially, but such things are a part of life and it was a good lesson.

It appeared to me that three of the four chefs had really tried to hide the main ingredient with the presence of other meats or an abundance of cheese.

I don't think you could find a more advantageous challenge for Rick Bayless if you tried. In the end he had to execute, but Mexican was the ideal vehicle for this challenge.

@dineomite: I agree completely- as soon as it was "Street food" and "Tongue", I knew he'd have to be making lengua tacos. This was his challenge to lose, in my opinion.

That being said, I still love Rick Bayless' personality and how you really can't seem to bring that man down!

I have had absolutely amazing deep fried pig's ears at The Spotted Pig. When done right the skin puffs up into a golden crispy shell and the inner cartilage becomes soft and velvety. Really delicious. Doesn't need any tarting up, just a little salad on the side to cut the grease with acidity.

I didn't watch the show, but I must say that I really can't stand Rick Bayless. I've watched his PBS show a few times, his overwrought pedantic delivery, his annoying intonations, even his damn kids talk like him. I just want to smack him. And his food is pretty boring. I'm sure it's delicious but it's always the same thing over and over. Maybe it's because I find Mexican food in general to be pretty boring.

Unfortunately, episode 3 has been my least favorite so far, and it was mostly because of Lefebvre's attitude. Its really a shame because I'm sure he is a very highly skilled chef and I love the concept behind Ludo Bites, but that ego! On the one hand, I think he really does push himself and has very high personal expectations, but rather than channeling his nerve (or nerves...) into his work he takes it out on his competitors (and sous chefs, I'm sure) and the food suffers. I admire his... ballsyness, but he lacks focus and professionalism.

Anyone else remember Lefebvre on Iron Chef against Batali?

*Sigh* Oh well. The good news is: John Besh is in next week's episode!!! 8D

Pig ears can be awesome. I've had a great crispy pig ear salad at Michael's Genuine in Miami where they are fried, puffy and crispy. My 11-yr old son won't stop stealing them off the plate. I've also had a great stew of ears and trotters at an asador in Segovia. If anyone was at a disadvantage it was Pawlcyn just because tripe usually takes a long time to cook. I could have sworn at one point I heard Ludo say "I am coming for you, Ricky Bayless."

I do love that Rick Bayless won, even though I think that his background kind of set him up nicely for this competition. I thought that ego aside it was a stupid move for Ludo to do a type of food that was not his style. There has to be a french soup that he could have made that he would have shown through, but I thought that it was nice to see him get taken down hard.

I didn't see the show but I am quite pleased Rick Bayless won. I enjoy his show immensely and it's because his personality is so pleasing. He speaks without a whiff of arrogance and has what appears to be insurmountable patience and kindness. And even though I can't eat 85% of what he makes because I am "spicyness challenged" I faithfully watch his show if for nothing else than to enjoy the warmth of his personality and his passion for the Latino food and culture.

Mexican food boring? What??!?!
I find that hard to believe anyone would say such a thing considering the many regions in Mexico where all the foods are different. You must be thinking Taco Bell is Mexican.

frodnesor, excellent ricky bobby reference.
i, too, love crispy pigs' ears. yum yum.
everything sounded good in theory.

Nope. I've been to Puerto Vallarta and had a personal chef go to the market for me every morning and prepare me three meals a day plus snacks, for a week, with gorgeous, fresh produce and seafood. She was a fantastic cook. I also ate out at the best restaurants in town. I've eaten in Tijuana and San Diego and LA, in Phoenix AZ, as well as in Mexican joints all over the country, further removed from Mexico. From high end white table cloth to taco stands. It's good. It's just, well, boring. It all ends up tasting the same. And Rick Bayless is the Ned Flanders of cooking. I can't stand his impassioned earnestness and I hate his halting way of delivering his corny lines.

And I haven't eaten taco bell since being in college, about fifteen years ago.

"I also ate out at the best restaurants in town. I've eaten in Tijuana and San Diego and LA, in Phoenix AZ, as well as in Mexican joints all over the country, further removed from Mexico. From high end white table cloth to taco stands. It's good. It's just, well, boring. It all ends up tasting the same."

Hmmm, simon--have you thought that maybe it's just you?

Yes it is me. I find it boring. What part of that didn't you understand?

@simon - NED FLANDERS! THAT'S IT! I couldn't sleep last night trying to think of who he reminded me of. Why are his top teeth so frickin' straight? Why does he chuckle? How does his hair stand up so cheerily, and where is his green sweater?

Thank you, I can rest well tonight.

"I also ate out at the best restaurants in town. I've eaten in Tijuana and San Diego and LA, in Phoenix AZ, as well as in Mexican joints all over the country, further removed from Mexico. From high end white table cloth to taco stands. It's good. It's just, well, boring. It all ends up tasting the same."

Hmmm, simon--have you thought that maybe it's just you?

Perhaps it was your delivery, my friend. You see, there is a difference between exclaiming that a thing (in this case, Mexican food) is boring, Full Stop and explaining that your particular palate cannot discern the difference between the dishes in a particular region's food.

From your delivery, I understood you to be describing the food itself as boring (as in, "that barn is grey") versus your perception of the food ("because I am color blind, that barn looks grey). The difference is subtle, but it's there.

Damn, and then I underscore my biting wit by accidentally posting twice.
Going to go beat myself up now.

I thought the Frenchman's attitude was despicable and his snide remark about Bayless paying off the judges a greater insult than Bobby Flay's cutting board trick.
I will no longer eat french fries--I'm sticking to European chips.

The barn is a desaturated mid value shade of brown. And Mexican food is boring, for the most part.

Aside from getting stressed and cranky at prep time, I think Ludo's bragging and ribbing was mostly tongue-in-cheek. He was grinning the whole time, and when he was actually put on the spot, he seemed nervous and genuine. The challenge put him way outside his comfort zone, and I got the impression from the start that he didn't actually think he was going to win.

rick bayless is a straight up dick.

I was so proud of WILO BENET... He is an awesome chef and his food is amazing. If you ever come to PR and money is no object (because it's quite expensive for PR standards), you should book a reservation at his restaurant PIKAYO at the PR Museum of Art. It's lovely...

And tripletas are a very, very popular street food here... it's like the construction worker lunch of choice. He went for what he knows... and stayed true to his style of cooking.

I was hoping he would reach the champions round to see him compete again, but I was very proud to see him take second place. I was also proud to see the exposure given to teh San Jorge Children's Hospital...

I'm telling you... it's PRican week here in SE.

I started watching this episode but changed the channel before it really got started because that French guy was rolling his eyes and being pissy over Rick Bayless and his enthusiasm. I figured that if I wanted to smack someone within seconds of being introduced to them it didn't bode for relaxing TV.

Anyway, I'm tickled to hear that RB won. He's goofy but his goofiness is so good-hearted and harmless that I totally forgive him.

Seikel, Rick Bayless is a straight up dick? That's a remarkably hostile remark that seems to have no basis in fact.

I wrote about him for a magazine a few years ago, and he was nothing except kind and generous with his time.

Thought Ludo would go for chicharones - the "street" folks would have recognized fried pork rinds immediately. Thought Wilo's offering was good for the crowd but not for the judges as the beef heart was buried among more traditional sandwich meats.

This was the first episode where the staging by producers just jumped off the screen. Not even one person in the crowd was shown turning their noses up at offal. Obviously a herded group during a cold day at a theme park. The Bayless/Ludo conflict seemed contrived as well.

hahaha ned flanders! spot on...

tongue was definitely the easiest of the four! but i think tripe is much more difficult than pig ear... not really a fair challenge - everyone should have had the same body part or ones that were of equivalent difficulty.

fully behind Martini Me - Bayless is the man!

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