Snapshots from Scotland: Deep-Fried Mars Bars
"After a few minutes, I was handed what looked like a single frozen fish stick on a plate."
I had heard about the art of candy bar-frying for a long time and I didn't explore it for all sorts of reasons. Was fear one of them? Yes. And the bizarreness of it all too. So, I toughened up and headed to the Carron Fish Bar in Stonehaven, Scotland, the birthplace of the deep-fried Mars Bar.
What was I afraid of? Yes, they must be really fattening, but lots of other foods are too and most of them tend not to scare me. And it was the sort of folk food I normally would revel in. I mean, it wasn't fugu. A deep-fried candy bar could be washed down with a cup of hot tea and walked off with an afternoon stroll.
For the past twenty-odd years, the Carron (formerly the Haven) has served deep-fried Mars Bars and has seen their fame spread around the world. While I was the first to tell the staff of their popularity in Brooklyn, New York—specifically at Chip Shop—they already had seen people from all over come to their shop for a taste. Soon, Doug, the man who claimed to be the inventor, was pulling a Mars Bar out of the fridge, splashing it with water so flour would stick, dipping it in batter, and frying away while Kelsey, a young woman who also worked in the shop was bouncing around with excitement.
After a few minutes, I was handed what looked like a single frozen fish stick on a plate. It was my deep-fried Mars Bar. I paid the price (one pound even*) and headed across the street to a public space where I began to eat the bar.
It should go without saying that the deep-fried Mars Bar didn't care what anybody thought of it. It had a flavor and life of its own—layers of warm chocolate, a crispy crust, and rivulets of brown goo seeping through. I took one bite and fell in love.
Like haggis, this Scottish dish is misrepresented. If it were presented to you in a fine restaurant in New York or London, you'd be delighted to try it. I can hear the raves—the way the different layers of chocolate mix, the contrast between the crispy outside and the molten interior (I think I stole that line from a real restaurant review somewhere) and how the combining of components was a tour de force of molecular gastronomy.
After I finished, I strolled around Stonehaven for a while. It was mostly modern buildings on a pleasant enough harbor. Not really a worthwhile destination for an American tourist. Except of course, if they wanted one of those deep-fried Mars Bars.
*Note: this is less than one half the price that's charged for the same item in New York City. I have calculated that if you ate 700 fried Mars Bars, it would be cheaper to fly to Scotland and grab a train to Stonehaven than to have them in, say, Brooklyn.
The Carron Fish Bar
1 Allardice Street, Stonehaven Scotland (map)
(UK) 01569 765377
carronfishbar.webecomservices.co.uk
Mondays through Saturdays 12 to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Sundays 4:30 to 10 p.m.
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15 Comments:
I think I've seen this place (or one similar) on one of Bourdain's trips to Scotland. Sure, the thought of a fried candy bar may sicken some but not I! Bring it on baby!
arm1970 at 9:15AM on 06/08/09
mmm, chip shop, how i love you.
I'll pay the extra price- i've eaten enough of these things already, but i think if ANYONE ate 700, they'd drop dead right there of a massive heart attack.
fried reeses cups are pretty good too.
BrooklynBaker at 9:17AM on 06/08/09
A Salt and a Battery in NY serves this as well. Don't think I'll try it though.
http://asaltandbattery.com/menu
gargupie at 9:41AM on 06/08/09
Nothing new to me, as we tend to deep-fry all kinds of things down here in Texas. Especially at the fair. :)
mollykate678 at 9:46AM on 06/08/09
It should be noted that a Mars bar in the UK is better known as a Milky Way here in the US. (About 25 years ago Mars Candy seriously considered renaming the US candy to match the European "standard" which would have made this post unnecessary.)
tankwatkins at 9:49AM on 06/08/09
Insane isn't evil, it's just insane.
Grumpy Old Man at 10:27AM on 06/08/09
@tankwatkins I thought Milky Way and Mars Bars were separate entities? Mars Bars - at least here in Canada - have a layer of caramel, whereas Milky Ways do not.
As for that menu above, a side of "cheese and pineapple" on your salad! I think the owners are perpetually pregnant :)
conky at 11:44AM on 06/08/09
I like that you did the math on the price different. Ive never tried the mars bar always been intrigued, i almost tried a deep fried oreo but decided against for some "healthy living" reason, which now feels stupid
Edwardkimuk at 1:49PM on 06/08/09
@Conky - Milky Ways in the US have caramel. A Milky Way without caramel is a 3 Musketeers. Once upon a time there was a Mars bar in the US that was basically a Milky Way with almonds. So it kinda sounds like the US 3 Musketeers = European Mars bar.
Am I right? Wrong? Seriously delusional and know way too much about candy bars?
The only deep fried 'novelty' I've had was deep fried Oreos and they weren't good- the cookies got really soft and the batter did nothing for it. I would like to try a candy bar if someone would split it with me!
AuntJone at 1:51PM on 06/08/09
Seriously gross! But, it makes me feel better about eating donuts and french fries once in a while.
Although, I don't mean to pass judgement, after all, I posted about once liking squeeze cheese today so I'm hardly beyond reproach in the gross food department.
http://danamccauley.wordpress.com
DanaMcCauley at 10:35PM on 06/08/09
I used to eat loads of these things when I went to the Haven for chips at lunchtimes from school. Really sweet and probably atrociously bad for you, but an excellent occasional treat.
Anyway just to correct a couple of points in this excellent article. I was a regular customer when these were invented, the local story is that a guy (a local teenager the same age as me) went in and asked for one as a joke and they made it. But it wasn't over 20 years ago, it would have been the mid 90s. So probably about 12 - 15 years ago. Also I don't think the guy that invented it is still working there as he was the owner when it was the Haven, not the current owner now it's the Carron. Still a great chip shop though.
Also the last paragraph "Not really a worthwhile destination for an American tourist.". I'm sorry you didn't enjoy your visit, but there are lots of excellent reasons to visit Stonehaven (as busloads of American tourists seem to have been discovering for as long as I can remember). From the brooding Dunnottar Castle on top of the cliffs above the town, to sitting on the harbour wall drinking a pint in the summer sun, the unique fireballs ceremony at Hogmany or the Stonehaven Folk Festival in July.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stonehaven
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunnottar_Castle
Apart from that thanks for featuring my hometown on Serious Eats! A nice surprise when I was browsing for delicousness today.
chrisoff at 8:03AM on 06/09/09
They have deep fried Mars bars every year at a booth at the Scottish festival near me. They are the only reason I go. Well, those and the cute boys in kilts. :)
TheBaney at 8:13PM on 06/09/09
I hope they use a separate fryalator for the deep-fried candybars; the alternative doesn't sound like it would taste good, w/candy bar batter coating taking on the flavor of the seafood that was just fried in the same oil >shudders
I would like to know what "mock chop" is, if anyone from the UK could explain please?
if those prices were in American Dollars, you would have some seriously cheap eats!
iamon02 at 1:34PM on 06/15/09
The US version of the Mars bar is no more. Originally, it was topped with 3 whole almonds. At one time it was my favorite candy bar. Few people felt as I did and it was "new and improved." Almond bits were incorporated into the nougat and the ones on top disappeared. I never ate one again. At least now I was on the side of history. The Mars bar in Europe and Canada is the same as the US MilkyWay, nougat with a layer of caramel.
In the 1980's the John and Forrest Mars decided that they needed to end the confusion across borders regarding their wares and name products the same in every country. Among other things this would have switched the names between the MilkyWay and the Mars bar here in the US. This was controversial enough that when the President of M&M/Mars fought against it; it cost him his job. In the end, however, sanity ruled and the US names were retained in the US.
The effect is seen in other Mars products, however. Pedigree Pet Foods is a Mars product and brand in England. The Mars brands in the US were KalKan dog and cat foods, Mealtime dry dog food, and Crave dry cat food. These, for the most part, became Pedigree dog food and Whiskas cat food. I did much of the marketing research on changing the dog food brand names in the US. The proposed names did not do well with consumers.
tankwatkins at 1:35PM on 06/15/09
Fried stuff = county fair.
Many similar items on the menu.
Wonder if Ohio was settled by Scots? Maybe my husband should wear his kilt to the fair this year... =)
akk328 at 2:33PM on 06/15/09