Hot Dog Of The Week: Philly Combo
Note: Please welcome Hawk Krall, a Philly-based illustrator who will be chiming in with his hot dog wisdom and original artwork on a regular basis. Take it away, Hawk!
The Philly Combo is a hot dog variation unique to the Philadelphia area. Believed to have originated at Levis Hot Dogs, which was open between 1895 and 1992 on 6th and South Streets, this kosher-inspired concoction consists of an all-beef hot dog and a potato fish cake topped with mustard and onions. Moe's Hot Dogs here in Philly still serves up this classic, and even has Levis Champ Cherry soda to wash it down.
Over the years, variations have evolved including the addition of pepper hash or pepper cabbage, a Pennsylvania Dutch cousin of cole slaw. While likely not an option at Levis' in 1895 this combination can be found at Lenny's Hot Dogs in Feasterville and Johnny's Hots on Delaware Avenue.
The fish-cake combo with pepper hash stands as one of the few remaining culinary monuments to the early days of Philadelphia eating that were heavy on the seafood and influenced by Jewish and Pennsylvania Dutch traditions.
At APJ Texas Weiners in center city Philadelphia, you can also order a combo loaded with "Greek sauce," a smooth meat sauce similar to chili, but without beans or tomato, often flavored with allspice or cinnamon, and popularized by Greek-owned Texas-weiner style hot dog stands beginning in the 1920s.
A few of the older cheesesteak stands including Pat's and Philip's offer the fish cake on a hot dog roll—without the hot dog, but available smothered in onions and Cheez Whiz. Or for a real Italian version, head to Texas Weiners in deep south Philly for a fish cake with broccoli rabe and provolone.
As far as I know, no fine dining chefs have yet attempted a haute cuisine take on this Philadelphia classic. Most importantly, while a hot dog and fish cake smothered in yellow mustard, meat sauce, and pepper hash might sound bizarre, it's actually really delicious.
There's a lot of recipes out there for pepper hash but my favorite is still this very simple recipe from my Pennsylvania Dutch grandmother. Here's the pepper hash recipe »
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11 Comments:
What the heck is a potato fish cake? Is is like a crab cake? What kind of fish is involved here.
lambowner at 4:29PM on 06/23/09
I used to love the Levis' combo dog of a fish cake and hot dog. The fish cake was a white fish flaked into mashed potatoes and fried to perfection. The combination of flavors with the deli mustard on a steamed bun was heaven. One of my childhood favorites that ended with the shop closing in '92.
halvacook at 4:38PM on 06/23/09
hahah the diced onions look like little ice cubes
cute :)
hungrychristel at 5:32PM on 06/23/09
A Fish Cake is basically a potato cake with some fish in it. Most (if not all) of the local hot dog eateries get theirs from a box in the freezer.
Traditionally it wasn't much more than cooked potato, eggs, white fish and matzoh meal formed into a patty.
Here's a simple recipe:
http://www.recipesource.com/ethnic/non-regional/jewish/fish-cakes1.html
And a little history:
http://www.ou.org/shabbat_shalom/column/fish_patty_recipe/
I would think a modern version with cod, fresh herbs and panko breadcrumbs would be pretty great.
Hawk Krall at 8:58AM on 06/24/09
See, I've always affectionately called this the Philly Surf & Turf, and I thought that this was its official name.
kessler at 9:13AM on 06/24/09
Grew up in the 'burbs, so I don't remember the fish cake part. But, we used to get the BEST hotdogs at Lennies(?) in Margate, right next to Lucy the Elephant. Grilled dog, pepper hash, mustard and relish for me (don't like raw onions) and probably a coke. Tasted absolutely fabulous!
I still like hotdogs grilled with pepper hash, mustard and relish. Somethings never go out of style.....
duncan1205 at 3:51PM on 06/26/09
OMG! I haven't had one of these since '92. I am definitely going to try and find Moes and get two of these bad boys. What a memory for me. And thanks to Hawk Krall for turning me on to a new website. I am known for my whitefish salad and being an African American woman, people are amazed. I then tell them I worked for a Jewish butcher and his wife from the time I was 10 years old until I was 17, and they taught me how to make traditional Jewish foods.
seefoodcook at 5:05PM on 06/26/09
The term "Philadelphia surf & turf" is relatively modern and probably coined by Holly Moore.
For some reason I don't think the combo ever made it to Jersey, or even out of the city for that matter.
Moe's is definitely my favorite place to have the combo these days. The only one that I haven't tried is Lenny's.
If anyone knows of anywhere in Philly that serves the Combo that I missed, let me know!
Hawk Krall at 11:55AM on 07/01/09
I thought there was something unkosher about mixing beef and fish?
salvaggio50 at 5:50PM on 07/01/09
Hot dog/fish cake combo can be also found at the hot dog stand on S.Fifth Street just south of South Street in Philadelphia.
I don't think they offer pepper hash - which is a great condiment to
compliment both the hot dog and fish cake. But they do have sauerkraut-
which is almost as good as the pepper hash.
I really enjoy your food graphics !!
mandosteve at 2:22AM on 07/02/09
salvaggio-
The fish cake comes from Jewish / Kosher cooking and became a staple of general Philadelphia eating in the early 1900's. Levis was popular with Philadelphia's (at that time very large) Jewish immigrant population. But you're right, combining beef and fish is not technically kosher, but not necessarily followed to this day.
You could put the Combo in the category of kosher style. That's actually why I find it so interesting, that it's the product of several different cultures coming together.
mandosteve-
Thanks! I'll have to check out that stand on 5th & south..
Hawk Krall at 9:46AM on 07/02/09