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The Secret Ingredient: Rose Water

20090513rosewater.jpg

Imagine that you are asleep, and you are dreaming. And in this dream, you are a bee. You are cruising on autopilot through an English garden. This really is the stuff of dreams—being so surrounded by food, that you don’t know where to begin. You buzz from one rose to another, and then you find one: big and fuchsia and reeking to high heaven of perfuming rose. You shuffle your little body, antennae first, down into the center of the rose, and crash down into the bottom. As you toss yourself around in pollen, the great petals harbor you in, and you positively bathe in sweet, musky rose. Right before you wake up, you may have an inkling of how rose water tastes.

I think sometimes that I should have been named Rose, like my grandmother. When I was growing up, my favorite Disney movie was Alice in Wonderland, because of that terrific scene where the deck of cards are painting the roses red. I wear Red Roses perfume by Jo Malone. My favorite tea is Black and Rose. All I ever order at Laduree in Paris is rose macarons. A bouquet of white roses are basking on the windowsill as I write. And my coat—it has the pattern of roses. I’m not exaggerating.

So this month’s Secret Ingredient, rose water, was like heaven to write. Usually I get two or three ideas and test them until they’re right. This month, I had so many I just had to pick my favorite three: Melon and Mozzarella Salad with Rose Water Vinaigrette and Crisp Prosciutto, Berries with Rose Sabayon, and Rosey Rosé.

Rose water was invented in the medieval Islamic world by chemists who would sell it to both the culinary and cosmetic markets. It is made from the essential oil of roses, made from the steam distillation of rose petals. Though it is often found in sweet things, there is no sweetness to rose water. Instead, the clear liquid looks and pours like water, except that it has that scent of granny’s perfume.

Although it is relatively rare in the U.S., rose water is used all over the world. As I said, France flavors macarons, religieuses, éclairs, sorbets, and madeleines with rose water. In India, rose water is used in rice puddings and lassis. Rose is the staple flavor of Turkish delight. In England, rose petals are used in teas. And although the flavor of rose is rare in the U.S., rose water itself is not hard to find at all. In fact, you can find it at almost any gourmet shop, Middle Eastern shop, exotic food store, or well-stocked supermarket. Smaller, more expensive bottles are imported from France, while larger, less expensive bottles are brought in from the Middle East.

This month, April showers have brought May flowers. And flowers are massively underutilized in American cooking. The colors are vibrant, the scents and flavors exotic. It’s time to buy yourself a bouquet, stop, and smell the roses.

Rose Water Recipes

Rosey Rosé
Melon and Mozzarella Salad with Rose Water Vinaigrette and Crisp Prosciutto
Berries with Rose Sabayon

17 Comments:

At our bed and breakfast, I often use orange flower water as a flavor enhancer for fresh fruit in the summer. It is a great way to add a subtle bit of flavor without any added sugar. I have rose water on hand, also, but the perfumey smell overwhelms me a bit - I prefer the orange.

No local stores near me carry it, but both rose water and orange flower water can be ordered online from King Arthur Flour.

Jeanne
Thomas Shepherd Inn B&B
Shepherdstown, WV

Candied rose petals in rose water ice cream is by far my favorite use for the stuff.

Simon, can you post a recipe here? Both for the candied rose petals and the ice cream?

If you're in Tacoma, WA, stop by MSM Deli on 6th (just west of where it meets Division and Sprague) to pick up rose water for these recipes. And check out their surprisingly good selection of beers while you're there.

i use it to flavor macarons for a very subtle taste

In the summer we add a couple drops of rose water to almond syrup and seltzer to make a very refreshing soda.

I've made rose water frozen yogurt with my homemade yogurt - it was incredible! I love my little bottle of rose water.

there's a nice tea - earl grey with rose petals in it .... so delicious.... anything with rosewater is ethereal.

@Thomas6; orange blossom water is also an excellent ingredient in cocktails. Try it with vodka and a dash of chocolate liqueur, with a wedge of orange rubbed on the glass.

@Jeanne: I do the same thing! I tend to use orange flower water on citrus and melons (except watermelon), and rosewater on berries and watermelon.

@simon: I second that recipe request--I've always wanted to try one with dark chocolate and candied violets, in a similar vein.

@Edwardkimuk: Rose is my favorite macaron flavor by far. Isn't it perfect?

@pooch: Yes! I believe that blend is known as Mademoiselle Grey; and the lavender version is known as Marquis Grey. I am absolutely obsessed with them, and make them at home all the time.

As for orange flower water, I can't tell whether I love it more than rosewater on any particular day. I adore them both, and I think I'll do an orange flower Secret Ingredient as well. I just did a cooking show with an orange flower creme brulee; if you want to check out the recipe, here's the link.

@NotAmerican: The cocktail sounds incredible.

The rose water ice cream is quite simple: make your standard ice cream base and add rose water to taste. The amount will vary depending on the volume of base you make. I mix in some chopped, lightly toasted pistachios and a few dollops of rose petal jam, and garnish with a couple petals of candied rose. You can make your own rose petal preserves and candied petals, and you can also buy them at places such as Kalustyans. If you do make your own, it goes without saying that you must buy organic flowers that have not been sprayed with pesticides and grown with chemical fertilizers. Any variety of rose will work (white pink, yellow, etc) so long as they are very fragrant.

Recipes:

Rosewater Ice Cream with Meyer Lemon Zest

Makes about 1 pint

Ingredients:

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
2 large egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
Grated zest of a Meyer lemon
1 to 2 tablespoons rosewater, to taste

Method:

1. Add an inch of water to the bottom half of a double boiler and bring it to a simmer over a medium flame. (See below if you do not have a double boiler.)
2. Combine the milk and cream in another pot and heat the mixture gently over a low flame.
3. In the top of the double boiler, whisk the egg yolks and sugar to combine.. Set the mixture over the simmering water and keep whisking as you slowly pour in the warm milk and cream. Continue to whisk until the mixture begins to thicken—do not allow it to boil or it will curdle. When the mixture has thickened enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, remove from the heat.
4. Stir in the grated lemon zest and let cool to room temperature.
5. Stir in one tablespoon of rosewater and taste. If a stronger flavor is desired, add a little more rosewater, a teaspoon at a time. Pour the mixture into a covered container and chill in the refrigerator for 3 or more hours.
6. Taste the mixture after it is cold and adjust the flavor if necessary. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. [The freezing process is when the mix-ins are added, when the ice cream is about 2/3 or the way there]
7. Serve as soon as it is ready, garnished with organic, unsprayed rose petals if desired.

Note: If you do not have a double boiler, you can approximate one by setting a large, heat-proof bowl into the top of medium, heavy-bottomed pot filled with an inch of water. Be sure that the simmering water does not touch the bottom of the bowl, or the ice cream mixture may curdle. The bowl should sit partway into the pot, but well above the water.

Rose Petal Preserves

Ingredients:
4 oz [ORGANIC UNSPRAYED] Rosa Damascena Petals (about 8 cups loosely packed petals)
1/2 Cup Freshly Squeezed Lemon Juice (about 2 medium lemons)
1 1/2 Cups Cold Water
2 Cups Sugar
1 Packet Powdered Fruit pectin

Gather only the petals from the roses. Rinse petals well with cold water in a strainer or colander. Place in a large shallow saucepan.

Drain well.

Add to the petals lemon juice, water and sugar. Mixture should be more shallow than deep.

Stir over heat while slowly bringing to a boil to dissolve the sugar. Once sugar is dissolved bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer gently, covered for 30 minutes.

Blend the fruit pectin with some of the liquid from the pan, add this mixture back into the pan and stir without boiling until fully dissolved.

Bring back to boiling, reduce heat, simmer gently for a minute or so.

Pour into hot, sterilized canning jars, invert to seal. Store in a cool, dark place.


Candied Rose Petals (easy version)

Ingredients

2 organic roses, petals removed
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1/2 cup sugar

Directions

Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Brush both sides of each rose petal with the beaten egg white and dip in the sugar. Let dry on the wax paper


Candied Rose Petals

Ingredients:

1/3 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
rose petals
powdered or fine granulated sugar

Directions:

Add water to granulated sugar. Boil slowly until the syrup hardens when dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire: stir carefully for a moment until it begins to granulate; place the saucepan in a pan of hot water, and with small pincers dip the petals. one at a time, putting them on a china platter to harden. When partially dry, dip them in powdered or fine granulated sugar and let stand in a dry place for twenty-four hours.

@simon: Thank you! This is great.

De rien :)

I was just about to jump in here to say how much I like to make pistachio rosewater ice cream, but it looks like simon beat me too it!

i love rosewater and add it to yogurt, sorbet, and lemonade, among other things.

I love you, Kerry Saretsky! Your blog is fabulous. I am enjoying Provence along with you (well, I am projecting myself there anyway..). I feel I found a kindred spirit in the world of tastes, at last! Merci pour les recettes maroccaine.

Anyone who appreciates rose and orange flower waters, preserved lemons, lavandre, olives and all the bounty of the Middle Earth is truly blessed! Kerry, I'm waiting for your BOOK!

Merci @ Simon aussi!!! These recipes are very compelling - I can't wait for my roses to bloom!

Ahhh, I feel so REFRESHED!!!

@Pointy: Oh, I love you too! Thanks! Thanks for vising French Revolution, too. Feel free to project as much as you can. I love Provence; it is my favorite place. I'm just happy to share it! When and if there is a book, you'll know about it!

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