In Videos: Chef Dan Barber Speaks on Sustainable Foie Gras
On Monday night, Dan Barber, the pioneering farm-to-table chef of Blue Hill, won the James Beard Foundation award for Outstanding Chef of the year. This video of him at the Taste3 conference in Napa Valley last year focuses on the politics of foie gras. "The problem for chefs is that it's so freakin' delicious." True, true. Sure, you can cook great food without it, but that's like biking the Tour de France without steroids, he jokes. Barber mostly talks about a farmer named Eduardo Sousa, who works on a small farm in Spain and doesn't torture his quackers before we spread them on crackers.
Now, what I really want to know—what's that guitar doing on stage? Was there a foie gras jam session we missed off camera? The video, after the jump.
Dan Barber Speaks on Sustainable Foie Gras
[via Food Mayhem]
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My James Beard Case for Dan Barber: A Food Porn Essay
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17 Comments:
Wow that was a great speech. I've always loved Fois Gras but I always thought there was something missing or artificial about the character of the ingredient. I had read about how Jews pretty much invented the stuff in search of an alternative source of Kosher fat and always wondered how a much more "naturaly" raised product would taste.
Again Dab Barber simply instills food envy and jealousy in me.
Seina at 12:40PM on 05/07/09
"something missing or artificial about the character of the ingredient"
??? What do you mean? This makes very little sense.
simon at 12:45PM on 05/07/09
Maybe it just seemed too consistant no matter where I got it and lacking a punch that regional foods posses. I would liken it to an unaged steak to an aged one, just missing a single note but still tasty anyway.
Seina at 12:58PM on 05/07/09
Heh, I was there and don't remember Barber using the guitar. I think it was for the next speaker.
Jen Maiser at 1:14PM on 05/07/09
@ Seina. Yeah, I think you're right about the Jewish connection. I think I heard somewhere that the intentional fattening of animals for various reasons dates way back to the time of the Egyptians.
pastry262 at 1:23PM on 05/07/09
Interesting article....and Funny this topic us up.
I was hoping for your opinions on this eaters:
I've been reading about PETA's (I think) involvement with the European Union's sucess in affecting Canada's Seal-hunting market--
it's determined that this is inhumane.
So I ask:
Isn't force-feeding geese inhumane? This is a European export right?
hungrychristel at 2:41PM on 05/07/09
@Hungrychristel
First off, PETA is well-known for it's double standards and hypocrisy, and only picking battles it knows it can win (save the cute baby seals, even though their populations are destroying fishing stocks and they need to be culled for the good of the ecosystem!)
As far as foie goes though, it is by no means inhumane, when done properly. The foie around here comes from two farms in the Hudson valley in NY, and I believe one more in CA. We don't import any of the fresh european stuff, which tends to be of a lower quality in any case. The farms in the hudson valley both produce foie in the humanes way imaginable. I've seen the farms, and know. The ducks are better treated than any food-destined animals I've ever seen.
People get the false impression that it's inhumane because they tend to anthropomorphize the ducks. They don't understand that placing the feeding tube down their necks doesn't hurt (their necks are calcified because they need to be able to deal with eating whole fish/swallowing rocks, etc), and that gorging is a natural tendency for them - even in the wild. Sure, it doesn't go to the extent that it does when gorged in foie farms, but they are not tortured by the extra weight by any means, any more than an overweight person is tortured by their extra weight.
Feel good about eating foie. It's the chicken, beef, pork, eggs, and milk in the supermarket that people should be crying out for. The spineless back-patting hypocrites at PETA who make it difficult for decent, well-intentioned farmers to do business (like La Bella farms or Hudson Valley Foie) while not even glancing at the real criminals (the US meat and dairy industry) make me sick to my stomach.
GoodEaterKenji at 3:55PM on 05/07/09
Well written point, Kenji. I couldn't agree with you more.
ElissaLovesToEat at 4:08PM on 05/07/09
Who'd want to eat that stuff anyway? It looks like something my cat pukes up on the rug every few months.
ratbuddy at 4:16PM on 05/07/09
"lacking a punch that regional foods posses."
Huh? You are still making no sense. If you didn't like it, that's one thing. But foie gras *is* a traditional, regional food. It hails primarily from southwestern France. And likening to a non aged steak is also nonsensical. Personally, I love it. Simply seasoned and quickly seared, cured and made into a torchon, or cooked into a terrine with some armagnac, dried fruits and pistachios, the stuff is the food of the gods as far as I'm concerned. I make a foie gras ravioli dish that is one of the best things I've ever eaten, anywhere. The shaved foie "snow" over pine nut brittle with litchi gelée at Ko is like crack. Foie gras tarte tatin is something to kill for. The stuff in and of itself is sweet and milky and very mild. When not properly seasoned it is very bland. It could be that you just didn't get any good stuff. Or, that you just don't like it. No one says you have to like it.
simon at 4:22PM on 05/07/09
@GoodEaterKenji - Thank you~! I will continue to savour the fois :D
hungrychristel at 4:53PM on 05/07/09
@ratbuddy - giver a try! I swear! I'm no liver-lover but I'm a fois-devourer!
hungrychristel at 4:56PM on 05/07/09
Really beautiful speech - I'm so glad I watched it! It was inspiring.
marchpane at 5:34PM on 05/07/09
Goodeaterkenji - thank you so much for your comments! I couldn't have said it better myself. My name's Eileen and I am the current president of Students for Animal Welfare at the Cornell School of Veterinary Medicine. Last month, I also had the opportunity for visit the farm in Hudson Valley, NY. The reason I decided to go was because I wanted to see first hand, and decide for myself how inhumane froie gras production was. I followed the production from ducklings to gavaging to slaughter and I must agree that the ducks at this farm are treated far better than most any other production animal. Before coming to veterinary school, I had years of experience working with wild ducks at a local wildlife rehabilitation center. Ducks are my favorite animal. These ducks at the Hudson Valley farm were not stressed and they were well treated.
I also want to make a few comments regarding anthropomorphism and how it affects animal welfare. People tend to judge and value animals based on how much the animals remind us of ourselves. Chimpanzees and dogs are obviously worthy of consideration since they're social and intelligent in ways to which we can relate. Chickens, lizards and mice on the other hand - well, not many people lose much sleep if a lizard is eaten by a dog... but it a dog is eaten by a snake, that's another story. What makes these animals so much less worthy of our compassion? These "lower" species are deemed less worthy of consideration because they don't remind us quite as much of ourselves....I guess ducks are cute enough to make the cut.
In many ways, anthropomorphism is a very good thing - it is what drives us to want to help animals in need! But often times the acts of well intentioned people are misguided and ultimately end up doing more harm than good. For example, take the issue of horse slaughter. Until recently, tens of thousands of unwanted horses were being slaughtered and exported for meat to countries like France and Japan each year. Many people were so disturbed by the thought of slaughtering a horse that they pushed for legislature to ban horse slaughter...many of them went so far as to open horse sanctuaries.The problem is that horses are expensive to feed and keep and many horses ended up dying from starvation and malnutrition. Many more are now being shipped to Mexico for slaughter (where welfare slaughter standards are much more lax). The road to hell is paved with good intentions right?
In regards to gavaging ducks - ducks do not have a gag reflex like we do. What's more, these ducks have evolved to eat large thorny fish - and they have developed a thick layer of cornified epithelium (thick calloused skin - like at the bottom of our feet!) to deal with this. They could care less about a smooth 1 inch wide tube being passed down their throat - they react much more to the physical handling of being fed. Again, I am extremely familiar with duck behavior and the ducks being gavaged at this farm were not stressed...I think there are also cortisol studies to back this up.
In my opinion, the people at PETA have used people's good intentions to manipulate and deceive the general public.
To people out that have been refraining from eating froie gras because of animal welfare concerns, I applaud you for being so thoughtful. I encourage anyone to take a tour of the foie gras facilities at Hudson Valley, they are very nice people and would be happy to have you.
To the members of PETA, shame on you for focusing so much energy on a non-issue. There are plenty of legitimate animal welfare issues out there that must be addressed. Tens of millions of animals are being euthanized in shelters each day because of irresponsible pet ownership. Large scale, profit driven agriculture have lowered our welfare standards to a point where squeezing multiple chickens into a small battery cage is morally acceptable...
I lose sleep over eating eggs and bacon, and over not doing more for the local animal shelters. Foie gras isn't even on my radar anymore.
wormwooddove at 11:14PM on 05/09/09
@wormwooddove - Thank you! Really interesting info I'm glad you shared that :D
hungrychristel at 3:13PM on 05/11/09
@wormwooddove and @GoodEaterKenji, thanks. I truly enjoy being educated on these matters, and now I think I can eat my foie gras in relative peace of mind, with something to snap back at to some of my PETA-inclined friends.
Also, I love TED videos :)
hungryhungryhippo at 5:25AM on 05/12/09
I also wanted to add that my comments above were directed towards the farming practices of the foie gras farms in upstate new york. Farming practices in Europe are much different due to the tremendous demand in Europe... but, I don't feel knowledgeable enough to comment on them right now. Most of the fresh foie gras used in restaurants in the US are not imported from Europe
wormwooddove at 6:46PM on 05/12/09