Laid-off Restaurant Critic's Plan B? Cook
Editor's note: Today marks the debut on Serious Eats of Leslie Kelly. Leslie was most recently the restaurant critic for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer, which eliminated its print version last month--along with Leslie's position there. Now she's cooking. Leslie will show up periodically to report on her transition from the pen to the pan.
Photograph courtesy of Serious Pie
Talk about the tables turning. After more than 15 years reviewing restaurants for newspapers in Spokane, Washington, Memphis, and, most recently, in Seattle, I now find myself in a very foreign place: working in restaurant kitchens for Tom Douglas, a nominee for outstanding restaurateur at this year's James Beard Foundation.
My journey from critic to cook began shortly after getting the gut-wrenching news the paper in which my reviews have appeared the past two years--the Seattle Post-Intelligencer--would soon be toast. The last print edition rolled off the presses March 16, a sad day, mourned over with seemingly endless rounds of drinks at a pub not far from the paper's iconic neon globe.
But in the weeks leading up to my final review, I doubled back to a few of my favorite places, just to beef up those last expense reports. Serious Pie, the latest entry in the Tom Douglas's eclectic lineup of restaurants, was at the top of the list. This wicked-fine pizza place won me over with its intensely flavorful crust and luxe toppings: Italian truffle cheese and chanterelles, pancetta and clams, salami house-cured by sous chef Tony Catini and line cook Kenan Fox.
While having a solo lunch, getting lost in the roasted Yukon gold pizza and a glass of Sangiovese, I asked the server if I could buy one of the shirts he was wearing, a cocoa-hued tee with a whimsical logo. Sorry, he said, you have to work here.
Oh. Really?
Fast forward six weeks and I was pulling a Friday night shift: sautéeing calamari, slicing salami, shucking clams, even throwing some dough, all under the patient guidance of chef Gray Brooks. And, yes, wearing my new shirt.
When I initially approached Douglas about being an apprentice, he asked if I had any experience. Gulp. Well, no. There was that week-long intensive course at the CIA in Napa Valley, but I had never worked in a professional kitchen.
After a couple of weeks, I'm still not sure I can cut it. The experience has changed my life in one dramatic way, though. I've developed a foot fetish. Or, that's what it feels like. Standing for eight hours straight sent me scrambling for suggestions on what were the most comfortable shoes. Birkis? Danskos? Plain ol' sneaks? I'm open to any and all advice.
In the meantime, I'm going to spend the next couple of days facing up to my flour-phobia while taking a turn in the bread department. The place where they make that incredible pizza dough. I'll fill you in on how it goes next week.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
19 Comments:
Good to hear you landed on your feet, Kelly...maybe more on your feet than you intended. As PI readers, we missed you and look forward to your posts here on SE!
Chou Peng Qart at 2:38PM on 04/10/09
If only running shoes came in hard-toe, black. Danskos are instead, the shiny, coal-colored Mercedes-Benz-shoes that drive me around a 10 hour Friday-night cocktail shift.
SecretStashSalt at 2:50PM on 04/10/09
second the dansko's.... wearing them longer than i care to remember.
hey, good luck, it's a time of transition for many of us.... one thing for sure is that nothing ever stays the same. make the best of it, no matter what.
pooch at 2:54PM on 04/10/09
Hi Leslie,
I really like MBTs for lots of standing/walking. They are expensive, but they are the only shoes I can wear if I'm standing for long periods of time.
cooklocal at 3:08PM on 04/10/09
danskos are the only things i can walk and stand in for long periods. they got me through years as a busser, waitress, cocktail waitress, coat-check girl. not to mention 6 years as a new yorker who walked a lot.
i swear by them! and their more casual (less clog looking) line -- see the "vita" worked well for long nights on my feet too.
katalia at 3:42PM on 04/10/09
danskos, easy to clean off the crust of flour that forms after working 10 hours in the bakery. when i started, i was told to buy them a size or two up because your feet really spread when you start standing on them 10 to 12 hours a day. i didn't believe them and bought them in my size. after two days, i sold them to a culinary student and went up a size!
dmarina at 3:54PM on 04/10/09
Good luck with your new endeavor - you're lucky to find a restaurant where you only have to stand 8 hours at a time. Most are more like 12-15!
That's a pain in the knees.
btw, I've had a pair of polyurethane Klogs that are very comfortable, and haven't worn out after 4.5 years of 6-day weeks, 14 hours a day. They also only cost $25.
Not as attractive and doesn't have the macho factor of wearing those uncomfortable leather and wood Danskos, but I'd take looking like a wuss but saving money and being more comfortable over being a bad-ass wooden clog-wearer any day!
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 5:08PM on 04/10/09
Get Crocs. They're ugly, but pretty cheap and super comfy for long days.
ChefDJen at 6:44PM on 04/10/09
I have Birkis, they do me right.
Wow, you're lucky to have a cooking job, a damn good and coveted cooking job, when this city is crawling with un- or under-employed experienced cooks. I hope you make the best of it!
Welcome to Serious Eats and sorry bout the P.I...
sailordave at 7:41PM on 04/10/09
You're an inspiration to many of us out-of-work journalists, LK. I hope, though, that I don't have to stand on my feet for eight or more hours at a time as you are doing. Or wear, uh, Danskos? Or worse, Crocs? Lets hope that there's a book in here somewhere. I'll read it.
Danwebster at 10:24PM on 04/10/09
Doc Martens - but they have to be the ones made in England, not China. It kind of sucks putting them on in the morning - I know squishy sneakers are so tempting - but after 10 hours on your feet, the ankle support of a good pair of boots makes a huge difference!
croquecamille at 12:19PM on 04/11/09
Yo Leslie,
Definitely go with Dansko's. I have a bad back and was recommended these shoes a few years ago by nurses and doctors, and let me tell you, they have been a godsend while standing for twelve hour shifts. Your feet are probably going to feel a little tired, but that's what insoles are for.
On a side note, I just left my job to work in the pizza business. Pizza Brutta in Madison, WI. I always wanted to learn the wood-fired oven method, and make fresh mozzarella.
Good luck, Joe
moesizlacks at 3:28PM on 04/11/09
Seconding Crocs. I've tried Danskos - they felt okay for an hour or two, but the hardness really takes its toll after many hours. Crocs are amazing - light and squishy, yet secure. They make a culinary version with no holes (aka hot grease ports).
But obviously tons of people in this thread love Danskos so YMMV.
hsawtelle at 10:33PM on 04/12/09
Birkis black Kitchen Clogs all the way! I LIVED in mine for the past 10 years! (Well, a few pairs actually)
Good luck on your new job!
Erinay77 at 3:17AM on 04/13/09
Kelly:
I've tried Crocs, Danskos, Birkis, Skechers, etc, etc.
All of em.
Timberland has just released in the past year their PRO line of footwear. Timberland PRO Black is what you want.
Prairie at 2:59PM on 04/13/09
Funny thing, I live 2 miles from the Dansko warehouse and 7 years ago bought a pair for a trip to New Orleans. I had heard they were great for walking and I had just had foot surgery. Besides, I could get some of the styles for one half the retail price. After walking around the Quarter one morning I had to change to something else. Seems as though my very flat feet didn't benefit from them. My daughter swears by them like many of you. She got my stylish new Dansko sandals.
Make sure you wear them around your house for a while before committing to any make, because as you have found out standing for long periods of time is a hard activity. I am a massage therapist and have found Trekkers from Lands End have been comfortable for my work.
Good luck to you.
janaatwg at 3:25PM on 04/13/09
Leslie -
You can always come back to Memphis. We miss you!
grantparish at 9:40PM on 04/14/09
Thanks to everyone for these great suggestions! The subject of sore feet obviously struck a nerve...
Here's what I ended up going with:
http://lesliekellywhininganddining.blogspot.com/2009/04/my-new-shoes.html
Leslie Kelly at 3:33PM on 04/17/09
I look forward to reading this series. Looks like it's going to be interesting!
CanadianFoodieGirl at 11:05AM on 04/20/09