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'Am I Obsolete?' Asks 'San Francisco Chronicle' Food Critic Michael Bauer

Image from Between Meals

On his blog Between Meals, longtime San Francisco Chronicle food editor and restaurant critic Michael Bauer recounts discussion from a recent forum concerning the changing face of food journalism. Panelists were asked about the rise of Yelp, reviews on OpenTable, and the profusion of food bloggers on the Internet. At one point, Bauer said, “It used to be that newspapers were the only local voices; now we're one among many.”

In reflecting on the panel, Bauer asks his readers, “Am I obsolete?” It’s a question that crops up more and more, as user-driven review sites and food-centric blogs take off. Ruth Reichl recently suggested at a Columbia Journalism School lecture that the days of the critic's supremacy have passed, and every other navel-gazing op-ed questions the future of traditional journalism. But not too many established critics would concede, or even allow the possibility of, their own irrelevance.

What do you think? Will various Internet sources replace newspaper dinosaurs? Or will there always be a place for traditional critics in print?

16 Comments:

One of the things the democratization of the media should teach us is that people are not looking for the "best" source of information. That is what the news media looks to provide. The "right" information, even if it is low quality, may be what people have been looking for all along. New media also satisfies a desire for fresh voices. But I think where traditional media will always be better is when it comes to establishing standards, both for themselves and for whatever the media attempts to criticize or describe. Professional standards for journalists matter. Whether they matter or not, though, I think their voices will be drowned out by the sheer volume of other voices, especially on local matters, and by the loss of profits by their employers.

> But not too many established critics would concede,
> or even allow the possibility of, their own irrelevance.

Does this come as a surprise to anyone? "You know what, I'm being paid to do what many others do for free. Please eliminated my job."

The question should not be, "Are bloggers as good as professional journalists?" I would turn it around: How are professional journalists better than bloggers?

Is it fair to say that there will always be a place for quality? I'm not sure that amateurs posting on sites such as Yelp carry as much influence as professional critics like Bauer and Frank Bruni. B&B go to a restaurant many times and have the weight of experience behind them when they write a review. It doesn't mean their judgements are iron-clad perfect - that's never the case with any critic - but they are well-informed, and most people know that and acknowledge their authority.

I'm not sure what the use patterns are for food media, but I'm willing to bet that people read a number of different sources - newspaper, blog, social media, sites such as this one - for food news. It's a healthy thing for the traditional critics to mix it up with scrappy onliners. Bauer should take all the interest in his profession as a complement and a friendly challenge.

As someone who was recently let go from my local hometown newspaper (I wasn't a writer or a critic, either; I did the "behind the scenes" printing stuff), I have to admit to being personally bothered by the intense navel-gazing of the newspaper industry. Instead of making changes and doing something to help themselves, they're just complaining about it and laying off a large amount of their staff.

I'm 25; a member of a generation raised to be self-assured and self-indulgent. Sure, we could read the newspaper and the opinions of other people, but why the heck should we when we can just write our own opinion in our blogs? Obviously I have NOTHING against food blogs, nor do I think that blogs caused the (slow, incredibly annoying) death of newspaper...I think that newspapers didn't keep up. I'll read a review of a restaurant from a professional food critic and regard it with the same amount of decency as a review I read on OpenTable.

Food critics will never be obsolete, nor will their established industry in print -- they will simply have to change with the times. Likewise, every meal at a restaurant will never be the same, and every experience is different; 10 people could love a place, 10 others could hate it, they all could have ordered the same meal. Nowadays we get that full view of places thanks to sites like this one (and Chow, and Yelp, and...). It doesn't make a printed food critic obsolete at all, it just makes them a part of something much bigger -- they're a single viola in the orchestra, not the conductor, though they still may rank as first chair in their group.

Likewise with the newspaper industry: they aren't obsolete, they've just lost their status at the top of the pile and they have no idea how to get back to the top, not realizing that being at the top might not be possible when there's so many voices and opinions out there.

I like to think that pro food critics/journalists take their jobs and writing more seriously than your casual blogger or yelp commenter. If one's job is to review restaurants and write about food then I hope plenty of time and energy goes into that persuit. If one is say, a banker, with a passion for food and a yelp account, how much time does one really have to devote to food writing?

I never think it's a bad idea for the general population to have a voice, and I tend to distrust those who do. For example, we've all heard the stories of professional restaurant critics who go to lengths in order to mask their identities since service changes depending on the customer. Perhaps this is why restaurants can be so hostile to blogs which voice the opinions of the average person, those of us who don't get the start treatment. Furthermore, I'm dong a PhD in art history. Does this mean that my opinion of art is the only valid one because I do it for a living (or will someday)? Are you not allowed to like or dislike the things you see at MoMA because you're not a professional? I think not.

@sailordave, the flip side of that coin is, a professional food writer might be working under deadline pressure and only have a limited amount of time or expense budget to explore the menu of a place. A banker with a passion for food is free to take all the time they want, as well as devoting as much 'column space' as they want to photos and such.

I absolutely think that print critics will go the way of the dinosaurs. (Print itself will go the way of the dinosaurs--it's far too expensive to produce relative to websites.) But there will always be influential people on the web whose voices carry farther and louder than others. Whether that's people being paid to write on a blog like this, or people doing it for free on Yelp, doesn't much matter.

What does matter is that restaurants won't be able to get away with preferentially treating critics over regular customers anymore. Hopefully this will mean we all get better food and service! Restaurants will be on their best behavior, frightened that any disappointed guest could air their grievances so publicly.

I don't understand why people keep pitting bloggers against journalists, when both fulfill different roles: bloggers provide subjective, first-person accounts, while reporters strive for objective, just-the-facts news.

Now, I'm a reporter, and I love blogs. But for some things, bloggers don't have the access required to show all sides of an issue, or the understanding of media rules and legislation. (This is mostly true of personal blogs, not group or institutional ones.)

Critics give you different information than the average Yelp reviewer: they can tell you the history and background of a chef/restaurant/dish, the technique required, what goes on behind the scenes, and maybe even the chef or owner's point of view. The Yelp reviewer gives you the outsider's view, the is-it-worth-it bottom line -- plus commentary on the skanky crowd and the bathrooms that smell like weed. They're complimentary.

man, they'll never be obsolete as long as there are newspapers. the readership is so much stronger than food blogs. you can't compare restaurant critics to any ol' food blogger, you have to specifically compare it to a restaurant blog. comparing a critic to a home recipes blog just doesn't make sense.

if you just count the restaurant bloggers out there, very very few even sniff the numbers that read Bruni every week. The newspapers just need to grow up. They need to learn how to monetize their content before they become obsolete. It's a shame that in the beginning they didn't all collude to get behind a pay-wall. Now they're all scrambling to see who can lay people off the fastest.

Food bloggers aren't making restaurant critics obsolete. Newspapers are doing that because they can't stay in business.

I really hate when people differentiate between journalists and bloggers, as if they are polar opposites. Bruni "blogs" on the New York Times website... and many "bloggers" freelance for newspapers. Ed Levine wrote for the Times for years. Is he a journalist or a blogger? Answer- he's both.

It's not "blogging" that's making print critics "obsolete", it's the medium. It's the internet itself, which allows everybody access to a multitude of opinions. In the past, a food critic for a major newspaper was the only game in town. Now there are infinite ways to get information, so the critic might be feeling less important or less powerful. But in the end, the cream will rise to the top.

If what you write, whether it's on a blog, or "website", or newspaper, or whatever, is not well researched, or you rave about subpar restaurants, or you generally have no clue what you are talking about- people aren't going to read what you have to say. If you do the opposite, you will be relevant. In theory critics have jobs because they are good at what they do. If they continue to be good, they will be relevant- no matter what format their opinions show up in.

Yelp is great. I love it, and use it often. But it will never be a total replacement for a single, first person, well informed opinion from somebody I have come to trust over time: whether it's a friend, a "blogger", or "newspaper critic".

I would not let any critic, certainly not a blogger or commentator, determine my restaurant choice. Criticism, food, music, literature, whatever it is, is meant as a guide. But the primary differences between blogging and journalism, and they are important differences, are balance and qualification.

Journalists in paid positions had to compete with any number of qualified applicants to get a job. With few exceptions, the qualifications of the person writing the article or review is going to be better just by virtue of competition. There is some skill involved in both writing and critique, you know? It is not about bestowing upon the world your amazing opinion.

Which brings me to balance; journalists, regardless of what the average person thinks, have the concept of balance thrust upon us from our first day on the school paper and in every job in which we ever work. (I suppose the obvious exception is Fox News where they think if you scream, “Fair and balanced” enough it makes it so…) We often fail, sometimes miserably but balance is, at least, the goal and that makes all the difference in the world.

The internet is an amazing world with some great voices to be heard; it’s just that there is an awful lot of noise to pick through in finding something worthwhile. As for the internet finally giving “the people a voice” (and newsflash, not all people actually deserve to be heard) Tim and Nina Zagat began doing that, in print, nearly 30 years ago.

If I actually respected Bauer's opinion, I would say that he is still relevant, but Bauer is too often fooled by a restaurant's atmosphere, branding, cachet to be able to judge what is good food.

For example, Bauer actually believes that Betelnut SF is one of the best Asian restaurants in the city. Is he kidding me? Betelnut is inconsistent and the food is awful. He's just another self-important writer who likes to hear the sound of his own voice. The less relevance people like him have, the better.

I would think that most people are interested in what "real people" think, what they can really expect from their own viewpoint level, as opposed to what a perfect aesthete expects. Obviously with the high-end restaurants there's an element of window-shopping, but Bauer et al aren't going to make me spend my money there--a glowing review from a foodie friend will, someone whose tastes I know and trust, and also know that they didn't get special treatment because they were recognized.

@Deb07 - "Journalists in paid positions had to compete with any number of qualified applicants to get a job."

But that doesn't necessarily mean they are uniquely qualified. That ends up being determined by their writing. Bruni wasn't a food critic before he got the job at the New York Times. His popularity or credibility has been dictated by how good or bad his reviews are.

It's the same with so called bloggers. The ones who do it well, have a lot of readers. The ones who don't, don't. To lump them all together as "bloggers" and put the group forward as somehow being different or the "opposite" of journalists, I think is wrong. Blogging is just the format, not a measure of the writer. (I guess that was my main point.)

@ Zach: I get what you're saying, and you're right that there's a lot of overlap, what with many reporters blogging and bloggers making a living from their work.

But there are differences, in that the average amateur blogger (ie, one not paid by a news provider) doesn't have to follow the same rules of fairness and accuracy that reporters do. They also don't have the same access to people and organizations, making it hard to report all sides of a story.

That said, in many cases, I think bloggers are better suited to report certain stories that benefit from a little opinion.

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