Serious Cheese: Macaroni and Cheese Product
"Many of the 'cheesiest' products in the supermarket are not made with real cheese."
When I was a kid, Kraft used to run a very memorable commercial for their boxed Macaroni and Cheese in which they marketed their product as "the cheesiest." In fact, it was so cheesy, the ad argued, it should be called "Kraft Cheese and Macaroni," as if the order of the components determined their relative importance.
Well, Kraft's dirty little not-so-secret is that their boxed macaroni and cheese doesn't even contain real cheese but a sort of alchemical admixture of cheese's component parts: whey, milkfat, and milk protein concentrate. And now, if Sen. Darrel Aubertine's bill passes in the New York State Senate, Kraft and other companies selling products that contain milk protein concentrate, caseins, or caseinates will have to label their food as "cheese products," and not "cheese."
I hope this bill passes. Cheese is almost sacrosanct to me, an amazingly complex food made from that most precious commodity, a mother's milk. It's a food that deserves respect. Whenever I see products that tout they are made "from real cheese," a little part of me has to laugh—as if food with the word cheese in its name could be made from something other than real cheese.
But of course the joke's on me; many of the "cheesiest" products in the supermarket are not made with real cheese. So I see a law forcing manufacturers to tell the truth on their labels as a good thing.
What about you? Is this a justified crackdown on misleading advertising? Or just an overzealous legislator trying to force his pastoral ideals on the free market?
About the author: Jamie Forrest publishes Curdnerds.com from his apartment in Brooklyn, New York, where he lives with his wife, his daughter, and his cheese.
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30 Comments:
I hope this passes. I ALWAYS make my son's mac and cheese from scratch for this reason. It's not like making a bechamel and adding cheese takes much more time or effort than the boxed stuff. Not to mention it tastes a million times better.
meleyna at 3:13PM on 03/10/09
I, too, hope this passes. Let's try to honest about what we're eating and where or what it's coming from. I do have to confess that during the college years, that blue box was a staple among my housemates; it was also known as Kraft Mac&Glue.
dhorst at 3:25PM on 03/10/09
@dhorst, interesting you guys called it Mac&Glue. the article from Syracuse.com states that:
"The vast majority of [milk protein concentrates] are imported from countries such as the Ukraine, China and India, Aubertine said, and they are not regulated as food products because they are also widely used for glue. [Milk protein concentrates], for example, form the glue that affixes labels to beer bottles."
jamieforrest at 3:28PM on 03/10/09
It still amazes me that such outright lies can be placed on one of our most precious commodities. People believe advertising, it's a sad thing, but it's true. We need to rescind the allowance of companies labeling their wares as things they are not. It's just plain false advertising, and we wouldn't allow it elsewhere - why on foodstuffs?
devlyn at 3:33PM on 03/10/09
I'm not sure it would make much of a difference. I mean, does anyone REALLY think that cheese can be made into an indefinitely shelf-stable, florescent orange, powder? There's no resemblance between Orange Death and a good cheddar. Or even a mediocre cheddar.
myrnie_twin at 3:34PM on 03/10/09
@jamieforrest--that's kind of interesting for a couple of reasons.
It was more than 20 years ago that we called it Mac&Glue and that was in Potsdam, NY. I believe I was the one who started the nick name and it was probably due to the fact that my grandfather was a dairy farmer there in Northern NYS. In fact, he used to brag to his fellow farmers that there wasn't a cheese too sharp for his granddaughter's tongue (That was when I was around 3 or 4 years old). I just hadn't had processed food like that until college (except for cheese doodles). And that orange stuff does taste more like glue than cheese and seems act more as a binder than anything else.
Here I am now, living in a 'burb of Syracuse and the article you point out is from Syracuse.com. Made me smile and I'll have to go look for the article now. I usually just use Syracuse.com to get the Mens' SU Basketball schedule or to place a classified. Shame on me for not reading it more often. And I guess the next time my husband is drinking a Molson, I'll be thinking about the label glue's relation to that little blue box.
dhorst at 3:51PM on 03/10/09
Here in Canada, the same product has gone by the name "Kraft Dinner" for as long as I can remember, for this very reason. In Canada, you can't claim it's cheese if it's not. (I try to stay away from the "Chocolatey Chip" cookies too).
Although I guess the feds feel that the question of whether or not it qualifies as "Dinner" is best left up to you.
So, take note, when visiting Canada, avoid the "Chocolatey Chip" cookies and the mayonnaise-style dressing, but KD is awesome no matter what the heck it is they put in there.
To quote some lyrics from the Barenaked Ladies: "If I had a million dollars... we wouldn't have to eat Kraft Dinner ('but we WOULD eat Kraft Dinner'... 'Of course we would, we'd just eat MORE')"
kevster at 4:06PM on 03/10/09
I think that anyone who cares that it's not really cheese already knows it's not really cheese. And anyone who doesn't already recognize that detail won't notice (and/or care) if it's renamed to cheese product. They could rename it "Macaroni and Crap" and it would remain one of my comfort foods (though I do prefer Hodgson Mill's whole wheat mac and cheese, which actually does list "cheese" as an ingredient, though you'd have to be dumb to think it's going to be anything like making homemade macaroni and cheese with high quality cheese).
The cheese thing doesn't bother me nearly as much as seeing "organic wheat flour" listed on bread, since I feel like companies are taking advantage of the "I'm just starting to make an effort to eat healthy" group and deliberately trying to deceive the customer into thinking it's whole wheat. Particularly when it's labelled as "whole wheat bread," yet "organic wheat flour" is the first ingredient and "whole wheat" isn't until halfway down the list.
cycorider at 4:21PM on 03/10/09
oh my god, that powder isn't actually cheese? what's next, are you going to tell me that cap'n crunch 'crunch berries' are not in fact berries?!?
look, i'm all for honesty in labelling, but as long as the actual ingredients are printed on the back, let them call it macaroni and cheese-truffle-foie gras-steak-and-lobster for all i care.
and further in defense of kraft- i've tasted great cheese. i love great cheese. but i also love kraft mac and cheese. it is cheap, not particularly nutritious, salty, buttery, and filling, and sometimes that is absolutely perfect.
mr guy at 4:32PM on 03/10/09
Alchemical indeed! Kraft has succeeded in turning lead into gold!
Pointy at 4:36PM on 03/10/09
Best thing about KD is using it as a canvas for other creations. Mmmmm...
kevster at 4:46PM on 03/10/09
Put me in the "doesn't matter" camp. You know what you're getting with the Blue Box. It's never going to be a substitute for homemade gooey goodness, but changing the name won't change what's in the box.
popcornfordinner at 4:47PM on 03/10/09
I definitely would've thought Sen. Albertine overzealous before I read In Defense of Food. I think labeling things as imitation help us be conscious of what we're consuming, and it might change the way people who don't care as much about food think about processed food products.
marchpane at 7:50PM on 03/10/09
I agree that the labeling should be changed, if for no other reason than truth in advertising. However, it is interesting to note that in the Figs cookbook, none other than Todd English insists upon using Cabot (I think) powdered cheddar for his mac and cheese recipe. I don't recall exactly what the headnote said, but it is something to the effect of the way the powder helps the sauce come together. I wasn't turned off from trying the recipe because of the "cheese" powder itself - more because it is only available by mail order.
susanl73 at 8:15PM on 03/10/09
I am just writing in to say that while I know that it is boxed, mutated, alchemical crap, and of course we would all be better off eating something that Jacques Pepin, or at least Mark Bittman created, I love Kraft Mac n Cheese, or KD, or whatever the heck you call it. Especially with sliced hot dogs. And ketchup.
Let the flame war begin.
meglo91 at 9:54PM on 03/10/09
What I think is kind of sneaky is nutrition labeling of packaged foods; you look at calories/fat/sodiumper serving and you realize the "serving" is tiny.
hmw0029 at 11:02PM on 03/10/09
@hmw0029 - Like there's anyone who doesn't sit down and eat a whole box to themselves, right?
cickert at 11:12PM on 03/10/09
I am surprised this legislation isn't already in place. There are some products that are already labelled as "cheese products." Why do so if it isn't required? (I am thinking specifically of spray cheese, which seemed really delicious to me another life ago.)
buttonwillowsix at 12:36AM on 03/11/09
@cickert,
yeah who eats only 1/4 of a medium pizza for dinner? not me.
hmw0029 at 7:41AM on 03/11/09
There are people who think it's real cheese? Don't they read ingredients? Okay, I know that not everyone does and so that question is somewhat rhetorical, but they should. In general people should inform themselves. Food manufacturers are accountable but so are consumers who don't read the packaging but have the ability to do so. To me it's common sense.
I'm sometimes amazed that companies will put warnings on packaging to cover their asses because people lack common sense. The non-food related "Avoid contact with eyes" is a favourite, as is the food-related "Contents are hot." You mean, hot coffee can burn you if spilled? All because some guy decided to sue McDonald's once. I'm sorry, but if you're too dumb to realize the risk of hot coffee you deserve to get burned. Natural selection. Survival of the fittest. Thinning the herd.
That all said, I'm all for transparency, even if it's bad for PR.
CanadianFoodieGirl at 10:35AM on 03/11/09
i guess i wouldn't have a problem with the law but i'm having real trouble caring about this, i'm definitely in the "wait, you seriously thought kraft mac and cheese used real cheese?" camp.
sloppy at 12:54PM on 03/11/09
I have to say i am for this legislation. I am one of those that understands that yes, Kraft M&C is not real cheese. But i know that through heresay and by inferring that neon orange powder didn't really originate from a cow. If you asked me to look at the ingredients, which all SOUND vaguely cheese & milk related (whey protein, milk concentrate, etc) i would not automatically assume its NOT cheese. Why? Because i don't understand the laws that govern ingredients lists and i am not an expert cheese maker, and furthermore, my favorite cheeses are fresh and not processed, and therefore don't have an ingredient list for me to compare against. So yea, i would assume that whey stuff and milk stuff is somehow related to cheese, sure.
Slap a "cheese product" label on that baby already!
mh330 at 1:24PM on 03/11/09
There are people out there that think that the boxed stuff is made with real cheese and they are feeding a calcium rich meal to their kids - I know of more than a few. Even after I tell them to read the label, they still think that the powdered stuff is made from dried cheese and continue to feed it to their kids. I hope this law passes.
People should also read the Velveeta label; the ads Kraft used to run saying how it's "made with real cheese," implying that cheese is a primary ingredient, are a joke.
MMinNYC at 3:02PM on 03/11/09
Kraft was my holy grail of mac and cheese for years. I mourned its loss from my kitchen when I got married and converted to a kosher kitchen. I've had it a few times since then, and I realized the real stuff is much better. Shocking, I know, but for someone who grew up on Kraft, it's hard to break the habit. I don't think I ever paid attention at the time if it was real cheese. I probably wouldn't have cared. Now I do, of course!
mncheese at 11:24AM on 03/12/09
@mncheese, Have you tried Wacky Mac? http://www.noyolks.com/mac_cheese.html
jamieforrest at 11:27AM on 03/12/09
@mncheese: Kraft isn't kosher? We had it growing up, but my mom would sometimes buy non certified/hechshered food items if the ingredient list looked okay. Wacky Mac is indeed kosher. One of my synagogues sells boxes of it to use as graggers on Purim, then donates the boxes - as well as the money raised - to the hungry. It's two mitzvahs in one.
CanadianFoodieGirl at 11:57AM on 03/12/09
Dang, this made me feel old, and i'm not even 40. When I was a kid, Mac n Cheese didn't even come in a box as far as I know. Let alone advertised on TV.
Nothing beats the real deal mom used ot make.
Raiders757 at 8:20PM on 03/12/09
I don't think people will care...I mean, I doubt they will notice the product part. Like calling chocolate that's not really chocolate "chocolate candy" if I didn't know that's what it meant I'll just think they are being redundant.
joyciel at 2:03AM on 03/13/09
@ CanadianFoodieGirl Nope, it's not kosher, at least not in the U.S. I know Wacky Mac is kosher, but I prefer the Fould's brand. It's not real cheese, either, but it's very creamy.
mncheese at 1:31PM on 03/16/09
The Annie's brand is very good -- more of a craft as opposed to Kraft item -- and we always support Bernie the Bunny in all his products.
Stushi at 4:37PM on 03/16/09