A piece in the New York Times today states the obvious: Upscale food magazines are reacting to the economic downturn by focusing on recipes and stories about meatloaf, macaroni and cheese, and burgers instead of missives on the joys of
foie gras, caviar, and Kobe beef.
The cover from the various March issues tell all:
- Bon Appétit: "Comfort Food Now" is a coverline; the photo is shephard's pie
- Food & Wine: Root vegetable gratin, a fancy-pants casserole, is the cover
- Gourmet: Grilled ham and cheese sandwich on the cover
Interestingly, the story barely mentions the web at all, which is kind of strange when you think about it.
There was nothing in the story on the effect that the internet in general and blogs specifically are having on the food glossies. It was as if the story had been written during the last recession and just spruced up with some fresh quotes.
The reality is that at this moment people passionate about food have many wonderful sources to go to for recipes, food news and entertainment, and restaurant reviews. As a result the food glossies no longer have a monopoly on food lovers' attention.