Kiss My Grits at Province in Chicago
My Serious Eats colleague Nick Kindelsperger recently posted an excellent recipe for shrimp and grits. And though I love to cook, I've been busier than Rachael Ray at a cookware convention these days. Though, with my appetite whetted for the southern classic, I did what every red blooded American male does when he can’t do it for free: I paid for it.
Not just any sandy, goopy mass topped with rubbery frozen shrimp would do. I turned to a guy I could trust for my fix: Chicago chef Randy Zweiban of Province. Zwieban lards Anson Mills organic grits with creamy Manchego and tops them with plump farm raised, perfectly cooked shrimp. The Anson Mills grits are both soft and creamy with a touch of toothsome grain. For those used to denture-soft, creamy glops, the range of texture yielded by the Anson Mill's grits make is so interesting to the palate, you don't really even need butter, milk, or any adulterant. That being said, I’ll take cheese on anything, and I appreciate Zweiban's overture.
What's cool about this dish is that it's not really a high end interpretation of the classic. It's basically the classic with a different type of cheese, honoring Zweiban's Pan-Latin cooking style.
Though I gave Zweiban a little guff when I interviewed him last year for offering burgers and chicken along with his inspired creations, he'd responded that he wanted to use comfort foods as a gateway to his more creative, but less familiar dishes. It's a smart move, and it's paid off.
Dishes like shrimp and grits have attracted one of the most diverse clientele to a higher end dining rooms I've seen in a while. You’ve got CTA employees and traditional blue collar Chicagoans bumping up against City Hall politicians and scenesters at Province. Now that's a sight that's as tasty as the grits.
Province
161 North Jefferson Street, Chicago IL 60661 (b/n W Lake Street and W Randolph Drive; map)
312-669-9900
provincerestaurant.com
About the author: Michael Nagrant writes for Serious Eats from Chicago, where he also publishes Hungry magazine. Michael never met an organ meat he didn't like. He hopes to meet many more.
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6 Comments:
Classic shrimp and grits don't have cheese of any kind. Just sayin'
Lilla at 11:36AM on 02/12/09
This looks like a delicious dish. Grits are pretty much the same as polenta, right? A while ago I made spicy shrimp with polenta and corn. It was a fast and delicious recipe!
orchidgirl at 11:59AM on 02/12/09
farm raised shrimp. what a drag. the wild shrimp comming out of the gulf right now are perfect. dont eat farm raised shrimp.
parker23 at 2:10PM on 02/12/09
you have a double post goin on ;)
redzerostar at 2:33PM on 02/12/09
I agree. Whenever possible, American gulf shrimp are preferable. Though I can't change what the chef has chosen, and they were really good. Agreed, that cheese is certainly not used in every recipe and probably not the original, but it's generally used so much in modern times, that's "classic" has become displaced by recipes from whose momma is doin' the cooking.
Michael Nagrant at 2:41PM on 02/12/09
Here is a quick version of Shrimp and Grits. Cheese may not be included in the classic Shrimp and Grits recipes, but it sure does add an element of excitement.I add chipotle white cheddar cheese to mine. Try this recipe at home, and look for American wild shrimp.
Shrimp and Grits
3 cups chicken broth
3/4 cup quick cook grits
1 cup (4 ounces) chipotle white cheddar cheese
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3/4 pound thick sliced bacon, cut into 1/4-inch matchsticks
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound shelled and deveined large shrimp
3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a boil. Whisk in the grits and cook over moderately high heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and grits are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cheese and butter, season with salt and pepper and whisk until the cheese is melted.
In a large skillet, heat oil until shimmering. Add the bacon and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon is slightly crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a towel-lined plate to drain.
Pour off all but 4 tablespoons of the bacon drippings in the skillet. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and add to skillet. Cook shrimp 1 minute, flip to other side and add garlic to pan; cooking an additional minute or two, until shrimp is beginning to curl. Add parsley and reserved bacon; season with salt and pepper and serve over chipotle white cheddar grits.
4 servings
tabletalk at 3:23PM on 02/12/09