Served: No Sick Days in the Restaurant Biz
I was coughing, sneezing, sweating. I was a hot mess. My first thought: Who can work for me?
I blog by day and wait tables in a New York City restaurant by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
It’s two years ago. My restaurant has only been open a few weeks, and I’m scheduled to work the opening shift. This means I will come in early and prepare the dining room for service: set the tables, fold napkins, slice bread, and the last, pretty touch—place a candle on each table and along the bar.
Hours ago, I woke up feeling queasy and headachy. But I’m needed at work and make a point to put my flagging health out of my mind. At the restaurant, I barely manage to wipe down two tables before I must book it to the bathroom. And puke.
“OK,” I think, “I got it out of my system. I’m fine now.”
The owner and the fromager are in the dining room, talking shop. “How are you feeling?” B., the former, inquires. I am pretty yellowish.
“Not great,” I admit, “but I think I’ll be OK.” For a minute, I resume table wiping. Then I’m back in the bathroom. This is not good. The walls are not so robust; poor B. and T. must listen to my miserable barfing.
“Sweetie,” T. says, “Go home!”
“But what will you do?” I know I am in no shape to wait tables, but I feel awful about leaving the restaurant in a bind.
“We’ll work it out,” T. insists. But through the bathroom walls (I’m still throwing up) I can hear their panicked plotting. We are a tiny, brand new place, and there is no one to cover for me. They start calling friends, acquaintances, former coworkers.
“But do you know anyone who can wait tables tonight?” they ask, just in case, as I wobble pathetically home. I don’t.
Don’t Be a Pussy
Every cook knows you better be on your deathbed before you even consider calling in sick. (Might you be able to pop off your deathbed for a few hours during dinner rush?). It’s part of the culture of the kitchen. Everyone is needed, no matter what. Slice off your thumb at noon? Can you be back by three, stitched up and ready for the long night ahead?
What happens if the thumb decapitation occurs during busy service? That’s why God made bandages. Now is no time for hospitable visits. Be a man! Fire two trout, one short rib! And please, don't get any blood on the plate.
Where I used to hostess, the hot new sous chef had a dimply skinned red arm. “What’s his story?” I asked a coworker.
“His arm got in the way of hot oil. He refused to take care of the burn. Normal cook behavior.” The dude always rolled up his chef jacket, proudly flaunting his grotesque appendage. “He thinks it will help him get laid,” the enlightened coworker explained.
Would an enormous burn help him get laid? I will never know. But it did lend him a sort of crazy, macho credibility in the kitchen.
Front of the House
Nobody wants their waitress to be spouting blood or coughing into their food or in their face. Still, where I work, it is now our responsibility to get our shift covered if we can’t wait tables—whether it’s because of the flu or because you just can’t miss Aunt So and So’s birthday dinner.
This weekend, like everyone I live with, I came down with some kind of nasty sick. I was coughing, sneezing, sweating. I was a hot mess. My first thought: Who can work for me?
I called up my three options and left raspy, pleading messages. “Please can you work tonight? I feel like death.” It was Saturday. They absolutely needed a server. I put my phone by my bed and crossed my fingers.
A text from D.: “Sorry! I’m already working. Feel better.”
That left two. In the hours I alternated sleeping, basking in despondency, and worrying about what would happen if nobody could cover my shift.
Lucky me, A. came through. I got to spend the night curled up in bed, trying to recover.
“I owe you one. Or seven,” I texted A., relieved.
“No. I’m getting paid,” was his response.
Fair enough. I was forfeiting several hundred bucks. But instead, perhaps I could wake up the next morning better able to breathe and function. Sometimes, one has to put their health first. After all, a pale, dizzy, hacking waitress is never a good look.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.

26 Comments:
I was a server for a while before cooking on the line in a busy restaurant. I know how you feel but if you are that sick, that's just unhealthy for everyone in the restaurant. Those germs are going wild wherever you go. You can make a lot more people sick, just stay home! The health inspector asked the head chef how he handles sick workers, of course he said they stay out of his kitchen.
joanpieroni2 at 9:30AM on 02/03/09
Oh my god... I live right around the corner. I totally would have worked there on opening day!
Zach Brooks at 9:39AM on 02/03/09
there are no sick days, and there are no breaks, which is why so many folks in the restaurant industry smoke. it's the only break they can get for a mere few minutes. my mom once asked my husband about lunch breaks, which made him chuckle.
french tart at 9:46AM on 02/03/09
I've always found that side of the restaurant business somewhere between horrifying and disgusting. This is a business based on serving food, after all - hygiene is supposed to be paramount! How many customers end up with flu a few days later because a server or cook couldn't take a day off. How many alerts in the newspaper have I seen because a cook with hepatitis didn't tell their bosses and stop working - hopefully as many as there should be, because I'd hate to be one of the people who finds that out the hard way.
sarahdlr at 11:16AM on 02/03/09
The last place I worked frowned greatly upon calling off sick. My worst offense was working with pink eye. I would have been written up for calling off because my eyes itched. However, pink eye is very contagious. I was wiping my itchy, watery eyes all night. As a server, I had to look at people and they must have been horrified. I tried to use a bev nap every time I wiped the tears from my eyes, but sometimes, a napkin wasn't right there. I touched countless plates and glasses and did 75 silerware roll ups. I wonder how many guests got itchy eyes.
Barbieri13 at 11:23AM on 02/03/09
I'd imagine that knowingly allowing sick individuals to work would be some sort of health code violation. Anyone remember Typhoid Mary?
jboylee at 11:59AM on 02/03/09
I worked for a place for five years, and called in sick once. That was because I had a serious throat infection and couldn't swallow or breathe. The owner was unhappy. Seriously unhappy.
I also gave them three month's notice when I left. Mind, I was leaving the country to get a Master's degree. Didn't matter. They were still unhappy.
I worked a full shift behind the bar with a dislocated knee. I put on an apron and washed dishes when no one else was around to do it. I am still the only person at that joint who has done every single job.
But at least I'm not bitter...
NotAmerican at 12:19PM on 02/03/09
Heh, I don't work food industry, but I do work in a job that consists of me being the only employee on site (and manager on duty) from 11pm to 7am- so I don't have the convenience of co-workers to call up. The earlier I know I'm missing a shift the better- a good week advance is typically what's needed, so calling in sick is one of the last things on my list, especially since it usually ends in the general manager having to cover my shift after being there all day.
comicsan at 2:09PM on 02/03/09
This is sort of a dirty little secret about the restaurant industry. Yes, it's unsanitary and horrible, but it happens every day, everywhere. I've never heard of a restaurant that doesn't operate this way.
No breaks, no sick time, no vacations. That seems to be the industry standard.
Kerosena at 4:11PM on 02/03/09
only if you were wearing latex pants and pink hair extensions while sneezing and coughing, would you be considered a 'hot mess'.
dmarina at 4:18PM on 02/03/09
I am currently plotting my way out of the industry. This kind of stuff of one of the major reasons why. I too have been asked numerous times about breaks. I laugh heartily every time. It's kind of funny but not really. I want to have a family that I can see at regular hours & go on vacation with. In the overwhelming majority of restaurants that's not an option. Therefore, long term the biz if not for me.
Knockout Ed at 5:20PM on 02/03/09
This occurs in patient care as well. Most of us drag ourselves in to work even though we're infectious -- of course, there are some people who stub their toe and call off too. The other downside is that even during weather (tornado, snow, hurricane) emergencies when all vehicles are ordered off the streets, we are still required to go in to work...
Cassaendra at 5:39PM on 02/03/09
Thanks for making me appreciate my job even more!
rockymountainmarta at 6:47PM on 02/03/09
I used to work in a bakey where, on top of serving bread and pastries to customers, I was responsible for measuring, slicing and pounding slabs of butter for the hundreds of croissants we made.
One week, I had pneumonia -- the kind that comes with fever, chills and endless phlegmy cough. I called the night before my shift and told the manager I was sick; she didn't even consider getting a replacement, just said I was expected at 11 a.m., sick or no.
I felt bad for everyone who bought food there the next day.
(Now, at my "real" job, it's slightly different. I'm encouraged to stay home when I'm sick, but I don't get sick pay, so I always go in to work, even if I'm useless and contagious. It's my revenge.)
piccola at 9:17PM on 02/03/09
Yep. That's the way it is. Last week there was a question on Serious Eats about the worst table you had ever had. Someone took the opportunity to say that her husband doesn't tip if his glass is empty for 5 minutes. The next day, at work, I was hyper aware of how long it took me to make refills. At the height of our rush I dropped a glass from above my head. On the way down it sliced open my leg (I wear shorts). It wasn't bad, but it kept bleeding. My first thought? How can I get back out there? People are waiting for their drinks, food needs to be run... It just kept bleeding though, even through the bandage I was eventually able to get from my manager. Yuk. And, I'm sure that my tips weren't as good on the tables I had then because people had to wait.
When I tell people that you can't call in sick, they are horrified. But, until guests start complaining to management (who can't call in sick either) and corporate, it will continue. Restaurants have to have a body on the floor, even if that body is half dead. Nobody wants that guy to have to wait that 5 minutes. The health inspector is there for an hour once every three months. It is really not a preventative.
twosavoie at 8:42AM on 02/04/09
I did get a break at the restaurant at which I worked when I was in high school, but that was only because child labor laws require minors to take a break. As soon as I turned 18, break time was over. The worst part of the no break policy is that the later it gets, the busier it gets.
Barbieri13 at 9:28AM on 02/04/09
I have never worked in the restaurant business and this horrifies me. I can only comment from the customer's point of view and I DEFINITELY do not want ANYONE who is sick near me, let alone, near my food! I can't believe you guys don't get breaks either!!! This is shocking - I guess I better not ever look "behind the scenes", I'd probably never eat out again...
ddvierra68 at 2:24PM on 02/04/09
I've been a waitress--and when I was hospitalized with a severe infection, I was darn sure I wouldn't have a job when I got out. I did, but I got stuck with the crappy shifts for weeks...
StarryRose at 8:08PM on 02/04/09
@twosavoie: You also forgot to note that the person who didn't tip when he didn't get his glass filled from being completely empty after 5 minutes was in a restaurant that had NO customers.
Cassaendra at 7:52PM on 02/05/09
@ddvierra68 - You might not want to look behind the scenes at your grocery store either. I've worked a number now and my latest current stint is no different than the rest. Zero breaks, zero call-ins. Calling in is a pretty good way to get fired. They'll just replace you with someone off the street that doesn't feel that they should take the day off when they're vomiting. And, if they don't fire you (probably because they can't - yay union) there will be harassment for the next few weeks due to your not showing for "a little illness." If you'd like a window on this - atm in my bakery department the girl who's currently in the spotlight for not showing - her dad died. There are no breaks for death. What are you thinking!? Get those fat-laden sugar bombs on the shelves. We have America to kill people! Ah. Retail food service. Gotta love it.
I feel especially bad for the "lifers" as we call them. Those people who aren't like myself college students just taking a job to get by. These people are going to deal with this for the rest of their lives. (Or until they get really sick and miss a few days or their family members die....)
feriorrenna at 10:46AM on 02/07/09
There's a lot of sympathy here, which is great, but also consider that many of these "lifers" or professional waiters make upwards of $150,000 per year. The entry-level financial analyst makes less than half that, and even though that occupation allows sick days, they're often still at home, crummily hung over a computer screen doing some sort of mental labor.
po0pie at 11:18AM on 02/09/09
Really??? Professional waiters make $150,000 a year??? I don't buy that for a second. Maybe, MAYBE, at the highest of high end places in NYC. Anywhere else- I doubt it.
Kerosena at 5:24PM on 02/09/09
po0pie what are you smoking? I was considered a lifer, in the biz 20 years in management. Those rules (non rules) apply to everyone except the GM and the owner. Sick, what's that? Waiters making $150K a year, pipe dream even in NYC (perhaps staff makes that at Per Se but I doubt that). I still live and work in NYC but in a different industry and I get weekends, holidays, sick days, personal days and yes vacations - time off, how glorious. When floor staff is out everyone pitches in if you can't bribe, cajole or guilt someone into working a double or changing their one day off per week plans. Try getting 2 days off per week and get them together, rare but I was lucky in a few establishments. Restaurant is tough, especially in the US where staff are treated less then dirt by a majority of management and by many customers. In Europe people go to school to become waiters. They are certified, get health benefits, and generous time off and don't forget the TIP is included on the check. It is a true profession there. Here it is your back up to what your real agenda is - actor - dancer - singer - writer - musician - artist - etc. in a majority of the NYC restaurants (high end establishments usually have what is termed as professional staff). No one has yet address what a waiter gets paid, outside the tip, per hour. When I left the industry in 2002 waiters were making $2.15 per hour. I know it has gone up because the minimum wage has gone up but wait staff NEVER makes minimum wage. The difference is supposed to be made up by the tip. You do the math...........
I was always well liked by my staff where ever I worked. My management philosophy was satisfy the customer and that meant helping out on the floor where ever I was needed. I was never above my staff, I was a working participant.
quaxo at 11:46PM on 02/09/09
$150,000 a year would mean over $11,000 a month. $11,000 a month would mean over $2500 a week. $2500 a week would mean close to $350 a day, working every day. Not likely. My best week ever in serving was a $1000 week, but other times I walked away with $30 in my pocket and a free meal.
NotAmerican at 3:20AM on 02/11/09
it's like being a soldier in a war .... soldiers never call in sick.
it's a love-hate relationship. you can't live with it or without it....
the restaurant biz.... just one of those things.
pooch at 4:10PM on 02/13/09
If restaurant owners were smart, they would hire an extra cook person and work all the cooks plus the extra a shorter week, maybe longer day,and they would always have back up, and everyone needs a break, just take it and make them cover for you, or hold up a dinner for 10 minutes, who cares.
you cooks deserve it, thats hard work.
cocoloco at 3:47PM on 03/16/09