Vietnamese Surf and Turf at Chicago's Hai Yen
January in Chicago means there are at least four months until prime grilling season. Maybe even five, as Chicago generally goes from face-numbing frigid winter straight to swampy summer in May, with nary a nod—except for a couple of drizzly, windy days—to spring. But right now my second floor window box is covered in a couple inches of prime snow dust, my windows are fogged by a roiling swirl of flakes, and my street, thanks to our cheap mayor Richard Daley, is an unplowed mess. Breaking out the grill is about the last thing I’d do.
Still, the palate knows no season, and it’s always prime time for smoky treats. There’s no lack of spots to secure such goodies in Chicago either, but last week I was reminded of one of my favorite grilled treats at Hai Yen, a cozy and clean Vietnamese joint up in Chicago’s little Vietnam neighborhood: Tom Cuon Thit Nuong. It may sound like a Peter Piper-worthy culinary rhyme, but it's actually grilled rolls of tender beef slices wrapped around creamy shrimp. This one-bite surf and turf comes straight from the kitchen with a sweet, charred caramelized skin perfumed with honey, lemongrass, and sesame. Dip them in a fish sauce-funked ponzu-style citrus sauce, take a bite, and you may never go back to the metal kettle and briquette show again.
Hai Yen
1055 West Argyle Street, Chicago IL 60640 (map)
773-561-4077
haiyenrestaurant.com
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6 Comments:
HEY!! As my favorite podcast (Chowcast) says---even when it's cold outside, fire is still hot! C'mon Chicago--wear a warmer skirt and grill!
bruisedbuddha at 11:42AM on 01/15/09
Piker! I did pulled pork just the other night.
It took a lot of hot water carried from the house to dislodge the ball of ice in the bottom of my smoker, but after that it was easy.
By the way, has anyone noticed that there's a Hai Yen near Clark & Diversey now? Which even if it's dumbed down for yuppieville, is a big improvement for that area....
Sky Full of Bacon at 11:51AM on 01/15/09
Uhm did you really describe nuoc cham as a type of Japanese ponzu sauce?
jayevee at 4:37PM on 01/16/09
No, they actually serve a citrus dipping sauce that likely has nuoc cham in it...but in general the sauce they serve is otherwise very similar to a ponzu.
Michael Nagrant at 4:49PM on 01/16/09
Ah, so it has nuoc mam (fish sauce) in it, and not nuoc cham (fish sauce with lime juice, chili, garlic, etc)...
jayevee at 5:28PM on 01/16/09
Right, but it's more orange citrus based...no garlic, though some chili.
Michael Nagrant at 6:06PM on 01/16/09