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The Absinthe Backlash Begins

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Photograph from _heather_r_ on Flickr

This past Sunday at an event in Seattle sponsored by the Washington State Bartender’s Guild, distiller Gwydion Stone and I presented a one-hour session on absinthe. Too bad nobody told us that, less than two years after its return to the United States, the once-forbidden spirit is passé.

That’s the sense you’d get, anyway, from reading the drubbing absinthe has taken in the past month in the New York Times and the San Francisco Chronicle. But as Jason Wilson noted last week at Table Matters, much of this criticism is coming from those who built up their own expectations (along with those of their readers) of absinthe’s return in 2007 with breathless repetitions of the spirit’s alleged properties as a sort of proto-psychedelic, only to discover that in reality, absinthe is just another kind of booze.

Okay, maybe not just another booze—one that’s flavored with anise, which to many people is uncomfortably close to the taste of black licorice (and it doesn’t help that some distillers, looking to cut corners or lacking a good understanding of the delicate balance of herbal flavors the spirit traditionally has, have exaggerated this flavor to a point that even a regular absinthe-drinker, such as myself, has a hard time choking it down). Adding to absinthe’s woes is the fetishistic frippery that has developed around drinking it; while it’s possible to enjoy a good absinthe with simply a glass, a little sugar and a carafe or small fountain of ice water, many bars consider serving absinthe an invitation for a floor show, and deploy arcs of flame and elaborate rituals when preparing a glass for a customer. And many absinthe drinkers, desperate to distinguish themselves from the martini-drinking masses with glasses of Mansinthe, a brand commissioned by Marilyn Manson, wind up overplaying their hand and make the whole situation embarrassing.

It was probably inevitable that all the excitement of having a long-illegal liquor suddenly return to store shelves would result in it being overhyped. But don’t blame the absinthe, especially now—while 2008 saw the release of several decent brands, along with a number of high-profile, incredibly crappy ones (likely the brands you’ll see spamming up the comments section, as is their habit), we’re at a point when some of the world’s best brands are entering the U.S. market. In addition to Gwydion Stone’s Absinthe Marteau, which is made in Oregon and is now available in several states as well as online, recent additions include the lovely Swiss brand La Clandestine, along with Duplais Absinthe Verte. This year will see the arrival of the first of the celebrated Jade absinthes from France, Nouvelle-Orleans, along with another excellent traditionally styled domestic brand, Absinthe Pacifique, made near Seattle.

Unlike the licorice and bitter-herb bombs that came on the market in 2008, these absinthes have a more delicate (though still pronounced) anise flavor, complemented by botanicals such as fennel and lemon balm that give the spirit a remarkable balance. Hopefully by the time these are stocked at your local bar, it will be possible to actually try the drink (and yes, it helps if you like anise, or at least can grow accustomed to it the way you did with radicchio or dark chocolate), without the inflated hype and resultant counter-hype currently surrounding absinthe distracting you every step of the way.

About the author: Paul Clarke blogs about cocktails at The Cocktail Chronicles and writes regularly on spirits and cocktails for Imbibe magazine. He lives in Seattle, where he works as a writer and magazine editor.

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31 Comments (1)

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31 Comments:

i'm a big fan of the anise flavor, being a regular Ricard drinker myself. but someone offered me a bottle of absinthe for my birthday last summer, and my husband took pictures of my friend and i after we took our first initial sips. far, far too licoric-ey for my taste. in fact, i found the whole thing quite vile.

i meant to add that i hope the better brands you mention in the article taste better than the stuff i had. like all liquors, some brands are better than others.

I prefer pastis. It's much tastier and less heavy handed. The best brand by far is HB. And the whole sugar and spoon thing is for tourists, no one does that. Just pour a good healthy splash over some ice and then some water over that till you get a pale yellow, almost white, cloudy mix. It's way to early to be talking about this anyway, I can only enjoy pastis in the summer.

@ simon, me too, i can only drink it when it's blazing hot outside. my grandfather used to drink it year round.

For some reason the link I made is not showing up blue, so here it is again:

http://www.distilleries-provence.com/index.php

Yeah seriously! Talking about this is making the cold harder to bear. Daydreaming now of sitting at a terrace with a pastaga in one hand a gauloise in the other...

i'm right there with you, but sans Gauloise :)

Thanks for answering my question, simon. The whole sugar spoon, dripping water nonsense is what has kept me from trying absinthe in the first place. i just can't be bothered. I'll remember to pick some up when the thaw finally comes.

Not to quibble, but the sugar-spoon thing isn't complete nonsense; unlike pastis, which typically comes pre-sweetened, most absinthes are bottled without sugar, and adding sugar to the spirit is not only traditional but completely appropriate.

Dripping the water through the sugar is an easy way to get the sugar to dissolve (sugar doesn't dissolve in alcohol nearly as easy as it does in water, though you can skip the step and just add simple syrup if you like your absinthe sweetened), and the water is a vital part of the equation: again unlike pastis, which is typically 40-45 percent alcohol, absinthe usually ranges closer to 60 or even 70 percent alcohol, so adding water is a must to make it palatable; it was never intended to be consumed straight.

While a number of improvised antics have been added to the preparation of absinthe to help drive sales, the sugar/spoon element is not only traditional, but actually serves a function.

I've never ever felt the need to use sugar in my absinthe. And good pastis isn't sweet. It just tastes better.

Everybody has different tastes; I don't use sugar in my absinthe, others do. And except for brands such as Pastis 51 or Henri Bardouin, I find many pastis way too sweet, and much prefer a good absinthe. Different tastes, as I said.

@callmenaomi - sure, an absinthe rinse is used when making a Sazerac, and when absinthe or any other highly aromatic, potently flavored spirit (Chartreuse, Islay single malt, etc.) is used as a rinse, it can lend a nice touch to many drinks.

By coating the sides of the glass rather than simply adding the absinthe to the drink, you're making the ingredient perform more as an aromatic, so you get a nice whiff of the botanicals as you're taking a sip of the drink. Only use a little bit (a teaspoon should do), as you don't want the rinse to take over the flavor of the cocktail, but a light rinse can really flesh out a drink's character.

Another good rinse is to use a really smoky Islay single malt like Laphroaig to give a rinse to a cocktail glass before pouring a Manhattan. That smell of smoke and peat adds a nice touch.

@Paul - true indeed. Some people enjoy Jägermeister for example... *shudders*

Speaking of Jaggermeister (shudder..indeed!) My Jaggermeister swilling BF thought it would be a great idea to have an absinthe party. He hooked me up with the whole ritual- fancy absinthe spoon, sugarcube, loache, etc.
After wrinkling my nose & sipping cautiously, I retched and compared it to (what I imagined) the taste of homeless guy underwear rinsed in scope and fennel. He concurred. We never did have that party.

Bisbee, I'm guessing you probably had an immitation brand. A well crafted absinthe is light, herbal, and refreshing, with a predominant flavor of anise.

I prefer absinthe to pastis due to its balance of flavors, with the fresh bitterness of the wormwood balancing out the sweetness of the anise. I don't use sugar anymore as I find it too sweet at that point. I find most pastis to be cloyingly sweet, although HB is tolerable.

Regarding the ritual, I second Paul's comments about the traditional preparation. However, if you're in a rush, or just find it not worth the effort, then I suggest preparing an absinthe frappe, and use simple syrup to sweeten. Quick, easy, and very refreshing.

I love black licorice and have yet to see any Absinthe in my neck of the woods (San Joaquin Valley, CA) I have always wanted to try it. Thanks for the comments...any online suggestions of where I could order a bottle?

@lamora - the most extensive online selection I know of is at DrinkupNY. Before you plunk down some change, you may want to check user reviews at The Wormwood Society to see which brands might fit what you're looking for.

@lamora: in the SJV you're not terribly far from the Bay Area, where St. George is located. They produce one of the best available domestic absinthes, and their distillery tour and tasting is way fun and pretty affordable (tour is free, normal tasting is $10, absinthe tasting is an additional $10). The next time you're in the Bay Area, head to Alameda and taste their stuff for yourself (and if you like it, buy a bottle).

*The author is totally not affiliated with St. George, he just happens to like their stuff. A lot.

I most certainly enjoy their absinthe, especially as a frappe. Lance is a good guy as well. However, I must place in one caveat. The St. George doesn't taste like a traditional absinthe. It's more of a modernized version with several twists. It's a bit heavy in the mouthfeel as well, which is why I prefer it iced, as it thins it out nicely.

I have to say that I'm not an anise fan... how does absinthe compare to Ouzo in that regard? I find ouzo to be unpalatable, even a more expensive variety, due to the strong licorice flavor.

Well, considering absinthe is a drink that is based primarily on the flavors of Anise and Wormwood, you might not be too into it. That's ok. It's certainly not a drink for everyone.

Seems like the New York Times article you referred to sparked a lot of conversation. We went down to Apotheke that week to visit with Albert Trummer, the owner/mixologist to get his POV on the piece. He reinforced the Donald Trump theory of PR...any is good, but he did acknowledge the negative bias of the author. Herr Trummers serves his own absinthe, and the category certainly fits the theme of the place since it does look like what you'd imagine an apothecary shop from the 1890's would look like.
Fad or trend? That's the question. I have noted this before in a comment, but from the feedback we're getting from retailers around the country both real and virtual (a lot of Absinthe is sold via e-comm) it's growing but from a small base. So it's sort of like the proverbial blind men feeling an elephant...everyone's POV determines their response.
So from our perspective as brand marketers (in the interest of transparency, we market Absinthe Mata Hari) the numbers show the category continues to grow rapidly in toto. As with any new category, there will be a flurry of brand entries, then a settling out period, and we'll emerge with a few brands that have demonstrated staying power (capital and time) and traction at retail.

Yeah, I'm not too big of a fan of black licorice, but the absinthe brand Le Tourment Vert that I tried was pretty good!

In the above post, I wrote "2008 saw the release of several decent brands, along with a number of high-profile, incredibly crappy ones (likely the brands you’ll see spamming up the comments section, as is their habit)".

I noted this based on a number of sock-puppet comments I'd received on my own blog, remarking on an absinthe-related post and gratuitously name-dropping a particular brand of absinthe-style beverage. I doubt it was sheer coincidence that all of these comments originated with the same ISP, just as I doubt the coincidence that it's the same brand that's being touted in the comment directly above this one. Took them a while, but the marketers who employ deception in their bag of tricks finally got around to commenting here. I would have been disappointed with anything less.

I should also note that in the above comments, Steveraye discloses that he's related to a company that has an absinthe product on the market. I hope other spirits marketers would follow his example and reveal their affiliation, rather than utilize cheap, deceptive tricks. Thanks for your comment, Steve--you have a great perspective on the industry.

its hard to know what absinthe is the best since it such a new thing in the states. Only way i know to find out is trial and error.

Well you should try Le Tourment Vert its supposed to be the most authentic absinthe with the green color and everything. My favorite part is using the spoon and sugar cube! Haha

I second that!

Paul, as you know, Joana attended your session at Tales of the Cocktail last year and found it both informative and engaging. Since then I've tried about 10 different absinthes and find Marteau among the best -in-class and I'm anxious to get my hands on Clandestine and Pacifique should they make their way to anywhere near here.

The backlash hasn't started here in any form in OK because, well, there's a very low awareness of what absinthe is and how it can be used so please continue to share your expertise and knowledge on the subject and evangelizing on what makes a proper absinthe and how it should be used.

As for the marketing side, I couldn't agree more. Steve Raye and BAT handle online writers and bloggers with respect and give the work that goes into writing such as yours its due. Others, however, see fit to use deceptive and degrading tactics to promote their brands. I hope everyone will consider the quality of such a brand before grabbing it off the shelf if they need to resort to such measures. "authentic absinthe" indeed...

Unbelievable! Finally an article with a list of absinthe that is actually good brands. Nouvelle Orleans, Pacifique, La Clandestine and Mansinthe are some of my favorites! If anyone is interested, there is also a nice list of reviews at Absinthe-Review.com

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