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After a lengthy residence on the Greek isles, my yogurt loyalty has decamped to Quebec.

I'm a little obsessed with Montreal-made Liberté yogurt. When asked to pick me up a tub or two, Serious Eaters Robyn and Ed, sensing the urgency in my voice, returned with eight.

Where Greek yogurt is thick, dense, and strained of whey, in some cases, almost to chalkiness, Liberté has a looser consistency. If Fage can be likened to heavy cream whipped to firm peaks, Liberté is whipped to soft; both are rich, but one is airier on the tongue.

Full-fat Liberté is exceptional; low-fat merely pretty good. The range includes an organic line, a number of fruit-on-the-bottom flavors, and a totally superfluous "Six Grain" variety containing—why bother?—a nubbin or two of whole grains. None in particular really stands out to me; I'd happily eat the yogurt, with its pitch-perfect tang, plain.

I think I've found my Holy Grail of yogurt—what's yours?

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