Served: The Perfect Waiter Job
I blog by day and wait tables by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
I remember winding down one of the first nights of service at my restaurant. We counted the money. To our happy surprise, it was a record-breaking night. We were all going home with plenty of cash.
We had opened just a few weeks ago, and we were still un-kinking the numerous kinks in our operation. My boss got to talking about how he hoped (and knew) his restaurant beat the many restaurants where he had worked as a waiter as a place to work. It beat them pretty hard.
“This is the best waiter job,” was the conclusion. Since then, I’ve thought a bunch about that proclamation, and concluded that in many ways, it is.
Here are my requisites for optimal serving conditions:
The Food and Drinks Rock
I’m not a great actor. If I’m really digging the crunchy, succulent wild mushroom arancini, I will tell you how awesome it is—with bubbly, sincere enthusiasm. If I think our new Japanese beer tastes like laundry detergent, any praise for it will sound half-hearted and unconvincing.
I am great at selling what I love. I think you’ll love it too. I want you to partake in the deliciousness. If I haven’t tried it, or if it is less than great, I’m not going to push it, and I’m certainly not going to push it well.
It’s so much more rewarding, too, to be serving food and beverages you can get behind.
We Wear What We Want
Maybe you’re thinking that it looks snazzy and professional when the waitstaff is dressed in matching skinny ties, or baby blue aprons. But it’s a slippery slope: first thing you’re sporting color coordinated polo’s, next thing you know you’re decked out in flair.
When J. first started working at my restaurant, a few weeks after we opened, she asked the owner permission to die her hair pink. She got it. “This isn’t fine dining,” our fine dining refugee boss declared, “you should be able to express yourself.”
J.’s hair has been spiky, pixie-ish, blue, platinum, red, pink, and black. She always looks hot. And she always looks like J.
I, too, once had to wear black suits, scratchy tights, and my hair pulled back. Perhaps it is leftover post-uniform trauma from too many years in my school’s little blue polyester skirts that makes me especially thankful that I can wear whatever I want to work. Within reason, anyway. I might get mocked for my short dress (“that’s a dress?”) or my favorite necklace (“are those Mardi Gras beads?”), but I am free to rock my wardrobe and my style. I don’t feel like I am playing a part in a play; I feel like I am playing myself.
It’s a Pooled House
It’s such a good plan. It breeds cooperation and teamwork. We all share in the pain of the heartless tourists who tip next to nothing, or in the abundant generosity of a table of friends. Over the course of the night, things tend to even out, anyway.
Where I work, the bartender seems to work equally hard and make a lot less in tips. Dividing things up is only fair.
Your Coworkers Are the Best
Even in a perfect restaurant, some of the customers will be less than perfectly fabulous. It is inevitable. Your emotional defense in these situations is always your fellow waiters (or bartenders, dishwashers, cooks, etc). It is extremely crucial that they get it, that they are cool people who have your back.
I am lucky in that many of my fellow waiters are obscenely hilarious. It’s always more pleasant to work when work is punctuated by the occasional fit of giggles. Also, the fits of giggles make the abuse from the abusive guests infinitely more bearable.
The single most important thing about work, as far as I’m concerned, is the people you are working with. If you’re saving the world, being creative, doing the most amazing stuff with utter jerks, it won’t be any fun. If you’re surrounded by people who you like, who you trust, who challenge you, and who support you, nothing can be that bad. Even an impossible rush, bratty children, and
You Want to Hang Out
I love working the “early” shift, although I do so rarely. After restocking the wine and doing my paperwork, I get to cozy up at the bar, rest my feet, chat with the cook, bartender, friends, and guests and have a glass of something wonderful. And maybe a bite to eat.
Since you spend so much time at work, it should feel like a second home. How much cooler is it to work somewhere where you actually like to spend your time?
Family Meal is Good
It’s hard to be serving food while hungry. One of the perks of working in a place devoted to the creation of quality food should be that you get to eat well.
This is sometimes the case, and sometimes sadly not. Regardless, I think it how the employees is fed says a lot about how the employees are treated.
Or maybe I say that because I am on my way to work now, very hungry, and hoping for something like pulled pork chipotle burritos, or pasta with greens and chorizo, or spicy chicken wings and a big roasted beet salad…
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10 Comments:
These are all solid points, especially pooled house. There's nothing worse than having huge inequities which breed jealousy and frustration, i.e. you make $75 when your co-worker makes $200.
I think the point that should also be mentioned is price. When I apply for jobs I make a point of looking at restaurants that charge $15-20 per entree. This is high enough that you'll be able to have some decent sales for the evening, but low enough that it's not fine dining. Am I the only one who looks at a menu before applying?
schwartz at 10:12AM on 11/18/08
This is totally true. I enjoyed my old job in the service industry (bartending slash waitressing) because of these same reasons (well, it was small enough that I was the only one who got tips since I was the only one working, so that cancels out crappy coworkers). :)
BTW, I feel you on the first item especially - I can't help but be honest "No, this is REALLY good... that one's only OK"
PS This might sound creepy, but I wound up at your restaurant last week and you were actually our server (your name was on our receipt). I debated saying something but thought that would be REALLY creepy, so I'm just saying it now, I had a really good time. Thank you for being such an excellent server - I can see why you love your job, you're great at it!
feistyfoodie at 12:03PM on 11/18/08
Love the pooled house notion. How can a customer tell if the restaurant practices this?
Likeswords at 12:21PM on 11/18/08
@feistyfoodie: Cool! Next time, say do say hi!
@Likeswords: I don't mind at all if a guest asks...I don't think there's any other way to find out.
Hannah Howard at 1:10PM on 11/18/08
a pooled house is good for 4 kinds of waiters:
1) offspring of the owner who do little or no work, but still feel they are entitled to share in the money.
2) lazy waiters
3) talentless waiters
4) dishonest waiters who invariably don't turn in their whole take.
Communism is a failed ideology that didn't work for nations and doesn't work for restaurants. The tip is an incentive to perform well and that incentive is revoked in a pooled house.
MikeTheWaiterDotCom at 9:13PM on 11/18/08
P.S. If one waiter walks out with $75.00 and one walks out with $200.00, then the one with sevety five needs to learn some skills from the one who made two hundo.. Peace.... :)
MikeTheWaiterDotCom at 9:16PM on 11/18/08
There are definite advantages and disadvantages to a pooled house. I work at a AAA 4 Diamond restaurant in Michigan. When we have buyouts and we all work the same party as a group, we pool. Otherwise, it's up to the individual to make sure the guests have the best night possible and get exactly what they want. Some of the servers have regulars who have been dining with them for 10 years. Am I going to tell him that I deserve part of that tip just because we wear the same apron? No way!
Besides, when the average price per person is about $100, the margin widens. If server A sells 2 ounces of Golden Osetra caviar and server B just had a bunch of in and out diners, should they walk away with the same money? No. I do believe in the individual rewards system. I don't hold a grudge when that happens, I just wait for my turn. Heck, I sold a Macallan 55 year old scotch to a table two weeks ago. The drink (2oz) cost them $1500 to enjoy. Should I share the wealth with the servers? Maybe I would buy them a round the next time we went out for a drink, but they've all been in the same boat as me.
Okay, I am done now before this turns into a bona fide rant.
DGibb at 12:41AM on 11/19/08
I think pooled house is fine in her situation because she hearts her coworkers and they all work together to ensure a great night. When you're all family and it's a small place, it's one thing, but when you've got a couple of lazy asses that no one else likes, pooled tips could create a really hostile environment, in which case it's up to management to abolish the shared tips rule (and/or fire the lazy asses).
If you'd been to Hannah's restaurant, though, you'd see that even with first time diners, there's a real sense of comraderie and food-loving-ness, everyone just wants to have a good time and be happy. So it really does work there, though I would be really angry if I had to do that and one of my teammates was an idiot who loafed around and got the same tips as me just because we pooled.
feistyfoodie at 12:14PM on 11/19/08
Hannah, are you allowed to say where your restaurant is located? I am planning a trip to NYC to visit my son over the holidays and am looking for new places to try.
floridayaya at 8:00AM on 11/26/08
I've worked in both pooled houses and non-pooled houses, and I definitely prefer pooled houses. And not because I'm a lazy ass, but because the competition and inequity get in the way of a guest enjoying himself. Of course in a pooled house, one should expect to be fired or yanked by his short and curlies if he doesn't pull his weight! There are many times when one server is free to help another, and in a pooled house she is motivated to do so. A pooled house is ONE ingredient in a well-run place. Excellent product, exceptional staff, and great management are necessary as well, of course.
bkc227 at 5:04AM on 12/10/08