Market Scene: Thanksgiving at SoCal Farmers' Markets
The hoards of people stocking up for the Thanksgiving holiday on Sunday made the Hollywood Farmers' Market (map) feel like Lollapalooza with vegetables, which means the upcoming Santa Monica market on Wednesday may end up looking like Burning Man at the beach. The best way to battle the crowds this time of year is to hit the market with a plan and a heavy helping of patience. With that in mind, the Southern California farmers' markets have almost everything you need to have a delicious Thanksgiving. Don’t forget to thank your farmers!
Turkeys
Dozens of people lined up early this morning to pick up their organic, pastured turkeys from the folks at Healthy Family Farms, who also had an on-farm pick-up day today out in Santa Paula and will be in Santa Monica on Wednesday with the last of the birds. In addition to raising Thanksgiving turkeys on their new 124-acre farm, Healthy Family also raises organic pastured ducks and chickens and makes delicious Artisan goat cheese year round.
Brussels Sprouts

Piles of brussels sprouts like tasty green marbles.
If you don't already have brussels sprouts on your Thanksgiving menu, make sure to add them. Finally in season, these miniaturized members of the cabbage family are the perfect, nutty-sweet foil to Thanksgiving fare, especially sautéed with butter and pancetta and drizzled with a bit of sherry wine vinegar. Unfortunately, too many people have had poorly cooked (read: boiled) brussels sprouts, giving these little green wonders a bad reputation that foodies of conscience should strive to reverse. Just remember, brussels sprouts emit sulfur compounds when overcooked, that's what makes them smell like the inside of a 12-year old boy's gym locker and wet matches. Find the smallest, brightest green sprouts available and cook them within a few days of buying them.
Cauliflower

A Romanesco cauliflower at Finlay Farms.
Another oft-maligned and turkey-friendly veggie is finally in season: cauliflower. Like brussels sprouts, broccoli, and cabbage, cauliflower is a member of the brassica family, which probably explains why people have a similar love-hate relationship with it. Fortunately, it can withstand longer cook-times much better than brussels sprouts. It also marries particularly well with strong flavors like saffron or garlic, and is delicious in creamy gratins. The Escher-esque Romanesco variety found at Finlay Farms is always a favorite, and it's sure to wow your guests with its geometric beauty.
Sweet Potatoes
Perhaps the most famous of root vegetables this time of year, sweet potatoes are a common staple at most Thanksgiving tables. My family loves them mashed and topped with marshmallows baked gooey and golden, but they're also great roasted, whipped and made into chips. The darker orange sweet potatoes are often called yams, though they're quite different than the real yams found in West Africa. Often called "garnet," these are sweeter and a little less starchy than their lighter-colored counterparts. If you're looking to make something that's light and fluffy look for sweet potatoes with lighter flesh, if you want something that will hold it's shape try the darker ones.
Carrots

"Ode to orange" carrots at McGrath.
Orange could easily be designated the official color of Thanksgiving, especially with the beautiful carrots available right now from McGrath farms among others, though I'm particularly partial to the violet-colored Purple Haze variety. These root vegetables are sweet and earthy and taste great roasted or braised with fresh herbs. Pick ones with healthy green tops. If you're not going to use them right away, cut off the tops, which will draw moisture out of your carrots and make them limp.
Apples
Apples have a wonderfully long season in California, and with all the amazing varieties that Cirone Farms grows in See Canyon you can't possibly get bored. The Winesap and Goldrush apples are perfect for Thanksgiving baking, perfectly balancing tangy acidity and juicy sweetness. These crisp varieties hold their texture when cooked and are deep shades of red (the Winesap) and gold (Goldrush) that, if you leave the skins on, lend a festive hue to tarts, pies, crisps and more.
Have a happy Thanksgiving everyone!
In Season
Carrots
Beets
Brussels sprouts
Apples
Spinach
Cauliflower
Sweet potatoes
Winter squash
Coming Soon
Lemons
Oranges
Limes
Mandarins
Turnips
Parsnips
Celery root
Bloomsdale spinach
Kale
Chard
Mustard greens
About the author: Leah Greenstein is a Los Angeles-based food and wine writer. Her favorite bumper sticker says: Talk Nerdy to Me. She also pens the blog SpicySaltySweet.com.
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6 Comments:
i've only heard of bloomsdale heirloom variety spinach. is bloomsbury similar?
dmarina at 3:53PM on 11/25/08
Thanks for catching my typo. Will fix that. - Leah
Leah Greenstein at 3:59PM on 11/25/08
What a great market report, Leah. You're absolutely right, the Farmers' Market was an absolute MAD HOUSE. I got there early, and the place was JAMMED with people loading up their shopping bags. I left most of my shopping for tomorrow....maybe not such a great idea, considering your Burning Man comment.
ah well.
Foodwoolf at 6:18PM on 11/25/08
I was going to make brussell sprouts for Thanksgiving but for some reason they were SO expensive. For 1 or 2 people ok but for 15 people no way. $2.99 for a small pack of them, I wonder why???
joanpieroni2 at 8:51PM on 11/25/08
I'm not sure where you live joan, but they're not nearly so expensive at L.A.'s farmers' markets; I think less than a dollar per pound. Perhaps they're not grown locally?
Leah Greenstein at 9:00PM on 11/25/08
I would die to have a decent farmer's market in my podunk town in central CA. But, brussels sprouts will always be my favorite veg. Price be damned. Steamed, braised, roasted, NEVER boiled...always fresh. With bacon, shallots, in a gratin, or simply roasted with olive oil and sea salt. They are cheaper here, .99 a pound in season, or 3.99 for a huge stalk.
lamora at 11:18PM on 11/25/08