It was with great sadness that I read the Guardian’s announcement that Unilever, which assumed control of the two mustard brands Maille and Amora in 2000, will close its historic factory in Dijon, France. The facility has been producing Maille, the iconic French 18th century mustard, since 1911. But in a country where authentic culinary origin is next to godliness, this Dijon mustard will no longer be made in Dijon.

In my home, populated by Frenchmen, we have no less than four flavors of Maille mustard on hand at any given time, and, in the fridge, at least two open jars of the 11-spice French mustard-based condiment Savora (produced by Amora). Apparently, the price of mustard grains has risen by 144 percent in one year. For me, the world financial crisis now really hits home.


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