Hard Ciders at Thanksgiving, So Underrated
I'm all about mixology, but even I'll admit that while there are certainly exceptions, cocktails are best suited as a pre- or post-prandial enjoyment. And while others are weighing the benefits of Thanksgiving-friendly wines, Jason Wilson at the Washington Post reminds us of a seasonal, suitable and historically appropriate accompaniment to the meal: cider.
As Wilson points out, cider has a bad rap: most commercial brands are overly sweet, excessively carbonated and downright insipid. Cider deserves much better. During the colonial era and the nation's early years, hard cider was popularly consumed by people of all ages and classes. More flavorful and, in many cases, safer than water in those pre-treatment days, cider was easy to make using the fruit grown on most any homestead.
And as Michael Pollan pointed out in The Botany of Desire, Johnny Appleseed—now Disneyfied into an apple-chomping wanderer—was providing a necessary service to early pioneers by giving them the means to produce this staple beverage.
Fortunately, many growers are rediscovering traditional apple varieties that make exceptional cider, and there are products on the market that show how complex and nuanced good cider can be (and, it should be pointed out, these ciders are typically on the dry side—a far cry from many of the sugary mass-market varieties). Aspall, from the UK, is bright and crisp, and even better, relatively easy to find.
Wilson also recommends French ciders such as Eric Bordelet Sydre Argelette and Cidre Bouche from Etienne Dupont, as well as Farnum Hill's Extra Dry, which is made in New Hampshire.
I'll be packing some Aspall Dry as well as a bottle of Cidre Bouche to my in-laws for Thanksgiving; anybody else planning on serving cider for the big event? And if you’ve got a favorite brand, please let us know.
About the author: Paul Clarke blogs about cocktails at The Cocktail Chronicles and writes regularly on spirits and cocktails for Imbibe magazine. He lives in Seattle, where he works as a writer and magazine editor.
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8 Comments:
Definitely! Since I'm in the UK for Thanksgiving this year, local cider is the obvious beverage to accompany the meal! I'll probably pick up a few bottles of Henny's Frome Valley at Sainsbury's on my way to my friend's apartment to cook. Not only is this my favorite commercial brand, it's been on sale for the past three months!
ChristineB at 6:47PM on 11/26/08
I spent a semester in London and we drank Strongbow like it was our job. It's crazy cheap and comes in convenient 2-liter soda-like bottles. It tastes like apple juice mixed with seltzer but is fabulous for college students on a budget!
jrmanor at 7:06PM on 11/26/08
I fell in love with Bulmer's while I studied abroad in Ireland, and you can pick it up everywhere else as Magner's. So delicious!
poke87 at 7:11PM on 11/26/08
I absolutely love Sam Smith's hard cider. Nice, appley flavor.
ilovebutter at 8:24PM on 11/26/08
California Cider Company in Sebastapol, CA makes a perry cider called Ace that's AMAZING. I think the apple is a little too sweet, but they make a dry hard cider called Joker that's good for people who like their cider drier.
amanda0730 at 11:56PM on 11/26/08
Fell in love with Strongbow during my study abroad year in Scotland--as my palate's evolved a tad I know there are other options, but there's nothing like a bottle of K (the closest thing I've found in the states) to take me back to drizzly friday evenings in Dundee hanging out with friends and sucking down pints over delightfully greasy pub grub. Considering that the US once was known for ciders, i think it's a shame it's so hard to find a decent brand over here! I must see if I can get our local wine shop to lay in some Aspall...
OKLibrarian at 12:37AM on 11/27/08
Try perry...it's cider made from pears. Not as sickly sweet as most apple cider.
Also, look out for local ciders. I live in Cambridge, and the university club has a cloudy, non-fizzy cider made locally which is incredible. Just because it's local doesn't mean it's good, but it's a great way to expand your palate and learn what you like.
NotAmerican at 2:10AM on 11/27/08
OKLibrarian, I'm not sure what part of the country you live in, but I've never had a problem finding Strongbow in the Midwest or Northeast (literally any grocery store in WI has it). I've recently relocated to CA so I'm not sure about the availability here... I'll have to check at the 'ol Safeway.
Embackus at 3:28PM on 12/02/08