Thanksgiving with a French Accent
I am first-generation American, and because my mother and her whole family is French, I have been given creative license over "my" holiday, Thanksgiving, since childhood--when I decided turkey was repugnant and ordered hot dogs from my mother's kitchen.
My tastes have since evolved into something more traditional, but my family, those dear stubborn Frenchmen, would never tolerate green bean casserole and corn bread. Some of the French people in my family, who will remain nameless, think corn is on this earth entirely to feed pigs, and they will not go near the stuff.
My family regards Thanksgiving as an excuse to feast, and with certain condescension to American tradition, we do feast quite Frenchly indeed. We start with the turkey, rubbed in herbes de Provence, and serve it with pomegranate-seared wild mushrooms, haricots verts amandine, potatoes au gratin, and granita made from Norman apple cider.
Thanksgiving for Two
This year, however, I am away from chez maman, and will be celebrating with my American father in our New York apartment, complete with its tiny kitchen and even tinier oven. The prospect of roasting a whole turkey for two people became too much for me to stomach, and for this year's menu, I decided to pare down--a trendy prospect, I believe.
This year's turkey is Provençal Turkey Roast au Riesling, white meat roasted with a crust of Dijon mustard and herbes de Provence and braised in Riesling and stock. As for the au gratin potatoes, I've merged several dishes into one, creating a savory Potato Grain and Stuffing Tarte whose pastry is filled with gratin potatoes and covered in my French nod to stuffing: baguette soaked in herbs and cream. The Thoroughly Modern Haricots Verts Amandine, highly traditional, get a modern renovation with lightening lemon zest and butter. And for dessert--true decadence: Pumpkin Brioche Bread Pudding.
Though I'm with my American half this year, I would never dream of giving up the French in my Thanksgiving. Just because my ancestors didn't personally sit down to supper with the Native Americans doesn't meant that I don't have everything to be thankful for. I think as Americans it's important to remember where we come from (because most of us have come from somewhere), and what America has given us. In one generation from Europe to America, this country has given my family and me unthinkable opportunities. And that is why, the last Thursday in each November, we never fail to say "merci" to America. Merci bien.
Thanksgiving with a French Accent
Provencal Turkey Roast au Riesling
Potato Grain and Stuffing Tarte
Haricots Verts Amandine
Pumpkin Brioche Bread Pudding
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6 Comments:
i'm half french as well and my parents always have a french twist on thanksgiving. my mom embraced thanksgiving because, like what you said above, america was her land of opportunity. however, there will always be a quiche on the table at thanksgiving, and the green beans will always have a frenchified approach to them. and she prefers to serve french desserts like a charlotte.
french tart at 3:34PM on 11/18/08
I've taken over the Thanksgiving duties in my family as well, and have instituted a non traditional menu, very much French influenced. Last year's was a big hit. This is what I'm making this year. Using traditional ingredients as a base from which to expand:
- sea scallop ceviche. Cider vinegar, plum, yellow bell pepper, honey crisp apple, shallot, parsley hazelnut oil.
- lobster terrine. Beets, parsnips, fennel, cipolini onion, tarragon, sundried tomato aioli, mixed greens, lemon vinaigrette. Pumpernickel crisp.
- foie gras ravioli. Sweet potato pasta, leek whites, fried sage leaves, chestnut consommé.
- chanterelle ice cream and smoked steelhead trout row. Mimolette and pancetta tuile.
- Turkey two ways: confit of dark meat with cranberries, brined and roasted breast with pan gravy
- cornbread dressing. Venison kielbasa, dried figs, chestnut, jalapeño.
- Brussel sprouts and shiitake mushrooms.
- Maple butternut squash soufflé
- Apple pie
- Pumpkin éclairs
- Pear and marzipan sorbet, Oatmeal stout and candied ginger ice cream.
simon at 4:24PM on 11/18/08
Well, hardly any ofour ancestors sat down with the pilgrims. My dear late MIL was born in Czarist Russia and came here as a toddler. She lived to be 99, and the whole family celebrated Thanksgiving as the biggest day of the year.America was very good to them, and they were more than a little grateful. It really is a day for all of us, believe me.
lemons at 5:35PM on 11/18/08
My family is Spanish but my NYC-born Cuban-American aunt always makes Thanksgiving dinner so although there are some Spanish and Cuban touches (flan for dessert is a near-guarantee) the meal itself was always fairly traditional, turkey, stuffing, mash potatoes, candied yams, etc, etc.
When I spent a semester in Grenoble, France in college our program director arranged for an "American" restaurant ("O Brother," really just a hamburger joint but the only place that attempted Americana) to serve up a Thanksgiving meal for us. They tried, they really did, but the meal was unabashedly French, from the presentation to the tarte aux noix pretending to be be pecan pie. It was certainly the only day in my entire time in France that I actually wished I was eating American food.
pearltellszoe at 6:02PM on 11/18/08
The husband lived in France most of his childhood with his parents who are Americans. Often when my MIL is here she will want to make something decidely French and I let her because I know it is nostalgic for my husband. I have been known to make something French to spark a memory.
My family, all Italians, are always glad for anything that is good food. I pepper in some Italian whenever I can.
I have more respect for France after I met Mr Tomato and family.
It is at this time of year most that I miss Julia Child. Her passing for some of us was like a dear cooking buddy had died. She was always in my mind the epitome of all things French.
When we are cooking in the kitchen during the holidays I often yell out to my MIL, WWJD (what would Julia Do?) while whipping egg whites or setting the table.
Most of us do not realize that refined dining was never made available to everyone till the TV and Julia.
JerzeeTomato at 12:46PM on 11/20/08
Here's Thanksgiving with a french accent:
Sanks-geeveeeng
:o)
juliebugsmama at 12:26PM on 11/21/08