November 2008
Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 30, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Photograph from orionoir on Flickr
Julian Dibbel opines on how blogs relate to the fantastical Wunderkammer, a metaphor that can also be applied to food blogs (and busy kitchen cupboards):
The genealogy of Web logs points not to the world of letters but to the early history of museums—to the “cabinet of wonders,” or Wunderkammer, that marked the scientific landscape of Renaissance modernity: a random collection of strange, compelling objects, typically compiled and owned by a learned, well-off gentleman. A set of ostrich feathers, a few rare shells, a South Pacific coral carving, a mummified mermaid—the Wunderkammer mingled fact and legend promiscuously...
[via The Last Appetite]
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 30, 2008 at 6:00 PM
I'm one of those people for whom the annual white meat–dark meat debate is moot; I'm only really interested in the turkey's crisp, golden skin. If the makers of Howard's Crispy Fried Chicken Skins introduced a seasonal turkey skin product, I think they'd really be onto something. (Admittedly, I may be alone in thinking this.)
I can't promise that this is a regular feature of Howard's Bag-o-Gribenes, but mine contained an entire chicken wing, incinerated to a fine crackle. The smaller pieces were crunchy, salty, and less greasy than you might imagine, but left a lingering taste of old oil. They're probably best consumed with something palate-dulling, like lots of beer.
I never saw another bag at the Brooklyn deli where I bought the first one, or in any other store in New York, and the manufacturer has no website that I can find. Only a (withering) review on Taquitos.net convinces me that this wasn't some Twilight Zone snack encounter. Has anyone else tried, or liked, these?
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 30, 2008 at 5:00 PM
Photograph by Su-Lin on Flickr
London-based food blogger and Serious Eats community member Su-Lin shares her experience at last weekend's L'Aterlier de Chefs' macaron class on her blog, Tamarind and Thyme.
Considering how prefect the macarons came out, it seems like a good class. She includes some macaron-making tips, such as banging the trays with the piped-out batter to get rid of the air bubbles and letting the batter dry out before putting the trays into the oven. I did neither of these things when I made my first batch of slightly malformed macarons, which explains a lot.
Learn how to make your own macarons with our macaron recipe. And if you don't know what this "macaron" thing is, it's never too late to start with our Introduction to French Macarons.
L'Atelier de Chefs
19 Wigmore Street, Westminster, London W1U, UK (map)
020 74996580
atelierdeschefs.co.uk
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 30, 2008 at 4:00 PM
The term, that is, not the actual establishments. From Nicholas Lander of the Financial Times:
Over the past few weeks, as I have watched the most recent openings, read the latest press releases and talked to restaurateurs, I have been increasingly aware that 2008 may see the end of nothing other than the restaurant. By this, I hasten to add, I mean not the restaurant as an institution, but the name. Restaurateurs appear to be doing everything to avoid calling their new openings restaurants. [...]
Various reasons explain this. One is that the word "restaurant" is associated with expense. Another is the inexorable march towards the “café society” we all seem so comfortable in, where our working lives dictate that we want to eat perhaps from a less challenging menu than a restaurant normally offers.
I'm more comfortable in the "pizzeria society" and will remain firmly planted there.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 30, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Photograph from Beer and Rap on Flickr
SergDun of Grocery Eats completely goes off on the new Popeyes chicken biscuit sandwich. Warning: He curses up a storm in this post, so it's NSFW (if you have prying eyes reading your screen) and not suitable for delicate sensibilities.
I know I'm not much better because I f****** paid them to do it but still this is a waste. Yeah it's good but they are charging you a service that could be completed with a plastic knife.
I think it actually looks pretty good. Popeyes has great fried chicken and great biscuits. What's not to love? (Unless, of course, there's a mark-up for the assembly.)
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 30, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Theo, a self-proclaimed five-and-a-half-year-old (at the prime age when half ages matter), has trouble pronouncing "agar" and needs a step stool to see over the counter, but he can cook from the Alinea cookbook (previously reviewed on Serious Eats). His brother James (nine-years-old) isn't professionally trained either, but doesn't fret over a recipe with pheasant, gray shallots, and burning oak leaves.
While some home cooks have expressed frustration with the unapproachable quality of the Alinea cookbook ("it took seven hours and produced eight bites of food") these two munchkins have proved them wrong. It doesn't hurt that their father is Nick Kokonas, the business partner of Grant Achatz, Alinea's head chef. Both videos on both sides of the argument, after the jump.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 30, 2008 at 11:00 AM
Straight from Colorado comes a cookie with a bang. The Grand Junction Free Press was first to hip us onto these 9-mm-shaped sugar cookie made by Mary Lincoln, owner of the Slice O' Life Bakery in Palisade. Though Lincoln informed me I was behind the times and she was doing turkey-shaped cookies when I called her earlier this week, she promised that next week the guns would be loaded with butter and sugar and ready to go for $2 a pop.
Signs in Lincoln's store read, "No background checks" and “No waiting period." While Lincoln shaped a piece of cardboard to make her cookie cutter, we found an actual cookie cutter for sale ($12.95, from CopperGifts.com).
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 30, 2008 at 10:00 AM
What's Up With Eggo?
"Eggos are one of those things, like blue raspberry flavored stuff, that taste like their color: They taste 'yellow.'" —redzerostar
Salt Explained
"Oh thank god for this thread. I have 8 different kinds of salts and my best friend thinks that I have lost my mind however is see I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE!" —GretchinF
Gourmet White Castle Hamburger Stuffing Is Just a Bad Idea
"If you added a pound of butter to this mess it could have come from Paula Deen." —RichardCrystal
Mystery Meat Regularly Turning Up in Park; No One Knows Why
"Wasting meat is a crime. Arrest them." —JerzeeTomato
Take Thanksgiving to the Next Level with a Modular Pecan Pie-Cosahedron
"Now I know what to serve for dessert if the Borg drop by." —Tonecat
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It's a popular question for San Francisco Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer, who says people should "follow their passion and write, whether on a blog or on established websites. The unique, interesting and trusted voices will rise to the top.” Or you could just join Yelp.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 29, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Either legend or fact has it that the first written record of s'mores dates back to 1927. But chances are, they did it the old-fashioned way back in the Roaring Twenties—with a twig and a roaring fire.
Thank goodness for modern technology. This handy little gadget microwaves two perfect s'mores in 30 seconds. A water tank heats them through evenly (no more gushy marshmallow and cold, hard chocolate), and the arms hold the top graham cracker in place so there's no slip and slide. And it's dishwasher safe; although, chances are, you'll still get pretty messy.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 29, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photographs from Paris-Beijing Gallery
Beijing-based artist Ju Duoqi uses vegetables to recreate famous pieces of art. Guardian.co.uk has a video showing the artist in action. View more of her artwork at Paris-Beijing Photo Gallery.
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Carl Warner's Worlds of Food Art
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 29, 2008 at 2:00 PM
"There are things that, right now, we can't afford; there are other things that we can't afford to lose."
Photograph from Marcelo Alves on Flickr
It seems to me that France is devolving into America. I say devolving because, over the last however many centuries, the French have silently declared themselves the possessors of a superior culture, and we Americans have unreluctantly concurred. But now it seems that French culture is trotting doggedly on the heels of America. First Coca-Cola, then the smoking ban, and now the recession.
The New York Times quotes café owner Bernard Picolet as claiming, "The way of life has changed. The French are no longer eating and drinking like the French. They are eating and drinking like the Anglo-Saxons."
That doesn't only mean that they're drinking Coca Light instead of Café au Lait, but that they are eating on run, taking less time to linger over a cigarette and a café, taking their baguette to their desks and eating it as they work in a smoke free environment. Does that sound American? Seeing as how there is a bagel sitting next to my computer right now and a sign in the hallway that reads "No Smoking unless You are on Fire," I say guilty as charged.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 29, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Yo. Don't mess with me and my rolling pin shirt.
As if you haven't done enough rolling this weekend. But it might make a good holiday gift. It's $14.95 from buyolympia.com. [via The Kitchn]
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 29, 2008 at 12:00 PM
As we dig deeper and entrench ourselves in the recession, sales of such "basic" foodstuffs as Campbell's soup, Spam, and Kraft mac and cheese have seen an upswing. But for some, even those can be a luxury.
But ad agencies Leo Burnett/Chicago and Starcom remind Chicago shoppers that "Food shouldn't be a luxury." To drive donations to the Greater Chicago Food Depository, news ads picture such pantry staples as peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, soup, and broccoli posing for beauty shots with coiffed and coutured models.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 29, 2008 at 11:00 AM
A Touch of French: Cold winter nights are often spent craving the perfect soup, and Blake Royer's French onion soup with star anise certainly is a candidate.
Year of the Chicken: Ok, there is no chicken in the Chinese Zodiac, but with this Chinese five-spice lacquered chicken maybe there should be.
The Other Green Dish: Tis the season for Brussels sprouts, a vegetable that haunts many a child's nightmares. Kristen Swensson's golden-crusted Brussels sprouts just might be the ticket to change their minds.
Pumpkin Pie No More: Nicole of Pinch My Salt blog tried something new with her squash—she made grilled pumpkin in sweet and sour sauce.
Quick Cornbread: Sick of dinner rolls? Nick Kindelsperger shares his easy recipe for Pan De Elote, a Mexican pan cornbread.
Pretend It's Not Turkey: Sick of Thanksgiving? Cover up the taste of your bird with stir fry turkey with green beans, adapted from a recipe by Raghavan Iyer.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 28, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Words by Ed Levine | 
Looking for a good post-Turkey Day laugh? Want to impress your wine geek friends at the same time? Well, do we have a book giveaway for you this holiday weekend.
David Kamp (The United States of Arugula) and David Lynch (the sommelier, wine writer, and co-author of Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy) have joined forces to write The Wine Snob's Dictionary. The blurb on the cover tells all: "A nicely structured, lightly acidic (guide) to the baffling world of winespeak, from A to Z."
We're giving away five (5) copies of this extremely amusing book. You won't want to be without it this holiday season. To win, tell us your favorite ridiculous winespeak word or phrase. I personally love when a wine is described as "oaky." You have until 3 p.m. ET on Monday to leave a comment here.
Contest will end and comments will close at 3 p.m. ET, Monday, December 1, 2008. One entry per community member. The standard Serious Eats contest rules apply.
Comments are Closed.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 28, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Paul Simon enumerates 50 ways to leave a lover, but CakeSpy offers 50 ways to kill a Twinkie. While you could just eat them, you could also wait for a Teddy Graham infestation, well-stocked bookshelf for smashing, hungry snake, or noose. Got any others?
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100-Calorie Pack Twinkies
Gold Twinkies
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 28, 2008 at 4:00 PM
maille.com
It was with great sadness that I read the Guardian’s announcement that Unilever, which assumed control of the two mustard brands Maille and Amora in 2000, will close its historic factory in Dijon, France. The facility has been producing Maille, the iconic French 18th century mustard, since 1911. But in a country where authentic culinary origin is next to godliness, this Dijon mustard will no longer be made in Dijon.
In my home, populated by Frenchmen, we have no less than four flavors of Maille mustard on hand at any given time, and, in the fridge, at least two open jars of the 11-spice French mustard-based condiment Savora (produced by Amora). Apparently, the price of mustard grains has risen by 144 percent in one year. For me, the world financial crisis now really hits home.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 28, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Photograph from speechlessson on Flickr
Recently at Bumpkin, I cringed to hear an American tourist ask the waiter for an iced tea. They may do tea well in England, but they sure don’t do it iced. But I found an even better replacement.
London's extravagant and wonderful Italian corner Locanda Locatelli does Earl Grey sorbet. I would have taken a picture as proof, only they don't allow cameras in the restaurant. The bitter bergamot of the tea was pierced with a sweetness requisite to all sorbets, and the cold assuaged my American cravings for tea leaves brewed on ice. It was delicate, unexpected, tricultural, and a bit downright impertinent. For me, it was love at first bite. From a hot Southern wrap-around porch to the patio of an Italian villa to my London table.
The English may not serve iced tea, but Earl Grey is very, very cool.
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Posted by Deb Harkness, November 28, 2008 at 1:00 PM
On Fridays, Deb Harkness of Good Wine Under $20 drops by with Serious Grape.
I've got so much tryptophan in my blood stream and chaos in my house that all I can manage this week is to scrape myself off the couch long enough to tell you where you can go to do some Friday-morning wine quarterbacking.
If the site traffic here on Serious Eats and on my own blog was any indication, Americans were seriously concerned about what wine to serve with Thanksgiving. Despite my own best efforts to keep it low-key and relaxed, people worried.
You all did great--at least that's what the data on CellarTracker!, my preferred online cellar management program, tells me.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 28, 2008 at 12:30 PM
These leftovers come together as a light, flavorful, seasonal, and elegant brunch for all your relatives the day after Thanksgiving. The point with leftovers is: the less it looks like last night's dinner, the more you'll want to eat it.
The first recipe uses leftover turkey, but has nothing to do with the traditional white bread, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and turkey sandwich. My Leftover Thanksgiving Turkey Sandwich piles very thinly-sliced turkey breast with crispy bacon leftover from breakfast, a fresh lemon mayonnaise made with juice and zest, frisee lettuce, and Munster cheese, all sandwiched in a thin baguette or ficelle. It can be served cold or pressed like a panini. The result is hearty, but light from the lemon and the frisee, and very flavorful and proper and classy. It's a lovely sandwich.
For dessert, I make use of probably every leftover dessert item you may have lying around, plus cranberry sauce. For my Leftover Thanksgiving Pumpkin Pie Parfait, I crumble together the crust of a pumpkin pie, some leftover pound cake, and ginger cookies (anything would work) with amaretto, layer that with a custard made by mixing together the pumpkin pie filling and left-over vanilla ice cream (from the à la mode pie), and top with fresh cinnamon whipped cream. The crowning jewel: a syrup made of water, sugar, and cranberry sauce. The result is beautiful, modern, complex, but a cinch to make.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 28, 2008 at 10:00 AM
"Butter, cream, sugar, pie, stuffing, gravy, biscuits. These are the tools of the Thanksgiving eater's trade."
I was all set to write a short post telling you of my decision to avoid the scale the day after Thanksgiving, that I was going to delay getting on the scale until Monday. Surely serious eaters would understand, was my instant rationalization. My daily interim weigh-ins leading up to Thanksgiving were not cause for alarm. As of Thursday morning I was even (236) for the week.
I knew you all would understand if I took a pass today. Then I decided that it's easy to rationalize too many decisions to go off the dieting reservation, as it were. In fact, I remember all too many times in recent years I would use Thanksgiving as a rationale to eat a lot every day in the week before Thanksgiving.
There are rationalizations aplenty out there to pig out, aren't there?
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 27, 2008 at 8:00 PM
OK. So for many serious eaters out there, it's over. The bird has been carved, served, and eaten. You've gone back for seconds (and maybe thirds). You've had your desserts, had a nap. And you're obviously back online.
We hope you came through it all OK.
But we're curious—what was on your Thanksgiving menu? Why don't you share it with us here in the comments?
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 27, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Photograph from Ama in Ohio on Flickr
Cupcake Takes the Cake rounds up awesome Thanksgiving cupcakes and cakes, most of which resemble turkeys. I like the one above in particular for combining many cupcakes into one giant cake, besides that, it's adorable.
Related
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 27, 2008 at 1:00 PM
©iStockPhoto.com/JerryPDX
While the Serious Eats crew has been tirelessly toiling to bring you all the seriously delicious, entertaining, and newsworthy Thanksgiving morsels (it's actually been way more fun than toil) we could come up with, we wanted to take this opportunity to take a minute to wish each and every serious eater a happy Thanksgiving.
May your Turkey Day be filled with lots of seriously delicious food, good wine, and the sounds of friends and family enjoying each others' company.
Here at Serious Eats HQ we have lots to give thanks for: a fantastic, supportive community of serious eaters; the opportunity to share our discoveries with all of you; and the chance to eavesdrop and participate in the most passionate, discerning, and inclusive food conversations on the web.
Happy Thanksgiving, serious eaters.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 27, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Relax, blow off some steam, laugh. From the Production Rider for Kate Kershner's Holiday Visit Home Tour, an oldie but goodie from McSweeney's:
The following should be placed on or near the table at DINNER:
(2) Bottles of wine per person at table, preferably something cheap so VENUE doesn't bitch about how expensive it was during the course of the entire evening
(1) Bowl of mashed potatoes, skin ON. SKIN IS WHERE THE VITAMINS ARE.
(2) Bowls of stuffing, one cornbread and one plain. If there is so much as half a raisin in the stuffing, TALENT will immediately leave the table and possibly the city.
[via Buzzfeed]
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If you're of the pshaw-scoff-too-good-for-this mindset, then Endless Simmer suggests a special Thanksgiving menu: a cheese course, capon (rooster that's bred to be tastier than turkey), ethical foie gras, and sweet potato soufflé.
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Posted by Alaina Browne, November 27, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Save room on your Thanksgiving table for a paper turkey, because no matter how your real turkey turns out, it'll be more moist and delicious than its paper understudy.
Tip: This would be a great activity to give the kids to keep them out of your way while you're in the kitchen. Print out one for each of your lil' pilgrims. It's tedious enough to keep them occupied for a while.
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Sure the New York Times' Kim Severson is live-blogging her Thanksgiving. But is she offering a live cam, Twitter updates, a Flickr photo pool, weather reports, and temperature readouts from the turkey smoker? Didn't think so. Meet Turkey Tracker.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Time to put all that preparation to work. After you've had your morning cup and are awake, get that turkey going! Then move on to cook all the things first that keep longer—like stuffing, vegetables, and appetizers. And just remember to relax and enjoy all the work you have put into this day.
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Posted by Alaina Browne, November 27, 2008 at 12:55 AM
It's Thanksgiving eve and while most of you are probably prepping for tomorrow's big meal, we're watching Top Chef so you don't have to. Questions on my mind going into tonight's episode: Will Stefan and Fabio continue to dominate? Will Ariane squeak it out for another week? I have to confess I'm beginning to develop a bit of a crush on Fabio, especially after last week's elimination challenge. But onto the show!
Contestants are back at the apartment hanging out. We can tell they are getting to know each other because Richard has given them all nicknames. Jeff "Don Johnson" Fabio "Cute Italian" Leah "the flirt." But this is a competition! No time for fun. Cut back to the kitchen where Padma introduces this week's guest judge this round, Grant Achatz of Alinea, in Chicago. Contestants are appropriately awed by both his talent and recent recovery from cancer. Padma instructs everyone to draw knives, which are labeled with random numbers like 168, 188, for the Quickfire Challenge. The numbers refer to pages in Top Chef The Cookbook
. The chefs have one hour to put their own spin on a recipe of a previous contestant. And off they go.
[Warning, spoilers ahead.]
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Oh, two of my interests combined—word nerdery and the food world. Amuse-Biatch catches spelling errors on Top Chef. Couli instead of coulis and Jean-George Vongerichten instead of Jean-Georges. Yes, word nerds really do get excited about very minor things. See if you can spot any typos as you watch tonight. [via Eater]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 26, 2008 at 8:00 PM
The real deal turducken (meat involved). Photograph from Phil Romans on Flickr
The name might inspire an "oh, my!" face, but tofucken is actually just turducken made with tofu. Adapted from a recipe by Chef Paul Prudhomme (the bearded, hat-wearing dude from Louisiana with a line of cajun seasonings), Stefany Anne Golberg of Table Matters turns the "infamous carnival of carnage that involves three unfortunate birds" into an infamous carnage of soy beans and wheat gluten.
If you could combine multiple meats (real or fake) for a turducken-esque mishmash, what would they be? And what potentially inappropriate-sounding name would you give it?
Related
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Posted by Raphael, November 26, 2008 at 5:15 PM
Today we're excited to announce some improvements to our community member profile pages. Profiles now have tabs—there's a tab dedicated to comments and another dedicated to posts, which includes Talk topics and published Photograzing submissions. The new tabs allow us to display even more of your comments and posts. For example, here's mine. While you're checking out your new profile, don't forget to update it!
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From brining the turkey to checking for doneness, the San Francisco Chronicle has all the fundamental details.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 26, 2008 at 4:15 PM
If you're anything like Nicole of Pinch My Salt, you may have bought a pumpkin this week with the intention of turning it into pie. But there you are now, standing in front of your open fridge, staring wide-eyed at the turkey, the yams, the potatoes, the corn, the green beans, the apples, the bread. What made you think you could make a pumpkin pie from scratch as well? Um, no.
If you're overwhelmed or just want to try something a bit out of the norm this Thanksgiving, Nicole provides an innovative, facile, and Sicilian take on pumpkin for tomorrow: Zucca Gialla in Agrodolce, or Grilled Pumpkin in Sweet and Sour Sauce. The pumpkin is simply halved, peeled, grilled, and marinated. And then it's done. Nicole admits, "No, I never got around to baking those pumpkin pies from scratch. But this recipe is so delicious and so simple to make, I'm not regretting it all!"
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Cook's Illustrated's Foolproof Pie Dough recipe never fails us, but if you still need some extra confidence as you head into prime pie-baking season, Kim O'Donnel of the Washington Post makes it all a little less intimidating with her step-by-step pie dough tutorial—don't skip the photos!
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 26, 2008 at 3:30 PM
"If you aren't using your convection feature, you are missing out of a great technological advance in cooking," says Rick Rogers of Epicurious's Thanksgiving Countdown. He explains that using a convection oven speeds up cooking times and improves browning. Some of his tips:
Along with improved browning, I find that the pan juices reduce more quickly than conventional roasting from the blowing hot air, so check the pan occasionally and add more stock or water to moisten the juices. This isn't a big deal; every forty-five minutes or so to check is enough attention.
There are two general rules when converting a regular recipe to convection: Reduce the oven temperature by 25F, and reduce the cooking time by about one quarter. So, if you had a turkey recipe for 325F at 4 hours, you would lower the oven to 300F and let it roast for about 3 hours.
You don't have to lower the temperature though; Rick admits he never does, which results in a turkey that is a "gorgeous burnished brown."
Related: Ten Turkey Tips You'll Be Thankful For
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 26, 2008 at 3:00 PM
"I am fake." —anonymous stuffed turkey. Photograph from JP Puerta on Flickr
When uncles and grandmothers interrogate you tomorrow for being vegetarian, just savor your meatless drumstick and know that 7.3 million people in the U.S. join you. Juliet Lapidos of Slate tried four brands of faux bird and rated them according to appearance, meatiness, and taste. The winner? Not Tofurkey. Found in the hot foods section of Whole Foods, the Gardein Stuffed Veggie Turkey Roast won for its twinkie-shaped deliciousness (made of soy, wheat, peas, beets, and carrots).
"After my first bite, I felt a little anxious—I wondered briefly whether I'd mistakenly bought real turkey and glanced at my taste partner to see whether she, too, had a 'Wait a minute' look on her face." In conclusion, it was so good, it tasted like real meat.
Related
Vegan Thanksgiving Menu
No Turkey For Me! [Talk]
A Very Veggie Thanksgiving [Talk]
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Posted by Jamie Forrest, November 26, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Last year around this time, we offered our suggestion for the perfect Thanksgiving Day cheese plate, one that featured five delicious American originals that ran the gamuts of taste and texture.
This year, given the economic environment, we decided to simplify down to a single, powerfully flavorful cheese. With all that other food on the table you definitely don't need an entire cheese plate; just serve a square of Maroilles along with your dessert course to top off the meal in the right way. It's the perfect fall cheese, with its red-orange rind the color of fallen leaves and an earthy, rich taste reminiscent of mushrooms and roasted vegetables.
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Last weekend, a couple in Platteville, Colorado, opened up their farm to anyone who wanted free vegetable remnants from the harvest. 40,000 people showed up.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 26, 2008 at 12:30 PM
Times are tough and turkeys are expensive. Don't be shocked if your host serves you a stewed shoe tomorrow. But let's hope that host is a reincarnated Charlie Chaplin. (And that your vision turns entirely black-and-white.) Savor those shoelaces (the best part) and beware of evil shoe bones. This scene comes from Gold Rush, a mostly-silent film about the Little Tramp's adventure to an Alaskan gold rush town. The video, after the jump.
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When the UK division was warned that global sales would be down this year, they decided to go exclusively fair trade, in hopes of boosting revenue.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 26, 2008 at 11:15 AM
Community-driven tutorial website Instructables is holding a Take Thanksgiving to the Next Level contest featuring some interesting and unconventional Thanksgiving-themed foods. My favorite is the Modular Pecan Pie-Cosahedron made of 20 equilateral triangle-shaped pecan pies whose pans are held together by Amazing Magnets. The pie's creator turkey tek seems to have a penchant for giant pecan pies seeing as they're also behind this Giant Fractal Pecan Pie. [via Metafilter]
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Do as much precooking as possible. Bake bread, defrost pie dough and make pies, put together salad (but don't dress it yet), cut vegetables, and set table.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 26, 2008 at 10:00 AM
When I made a list of interesting people I wanted to interview on camera for a series called Chewing the Fat, Alton Brown was at the top of the list. I have always found Alton to be interesting, provocative, smart, and funny, so we were thrilled when Alton agreed to do it. Who did we get to shoot, direct, and edit the Alton videos? None other than Hamburger America director and author George Motz.
With the holiday season upon us, we thought it would be righteous to have Alton weighing in on one of our all time favorite Serious Eats subjects, pie. Needless to say, he shares our reverence for a great piece of pie and the piemakers behind them.
The Feasting on Asphalt DVDs are available at Foodnetwork.com and the book is available at Amazon.com.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 26, 2008 at 8:30 AM
It's early as I write this. Strike one.
My mind is fried from all the turkey coverage of the last two weeks. Strike two.
But when I look at this "breakfast of champions" created by Rebecca of Ezra Pound Cake, I experience a moment of clarity. A singularity of purpose. And that purpose is to procure the ingredients for this cheese-grits chile relleno dish and knock one out of the park.
I mean, look at that thing. Based on a recipe by Matt Lee and Ted Lee, it's all roasted poblano peppers (yum) filled with cheese grits (also yum), topped with roasted tomato gravy (oh, yeah). Plus, don't you love it when a food also serves as a serving vessel for itself?
I don't know how you could improve upon this thing.
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 25, 2008 at 10:45 PM
To Jack Donaghy's declaration that New York is "off cupcakes and onto donuts", I say: holiday ceasefire! Lay down your weapons and coo over Wild Cakes' Lilliputian turkey dinner, crafted entirely from fondant.
Yes, potatoes are perhaps over-represented (mashed and boiled?) on this Thanksgiving table, but who's counting? Not I. [via Yes But No But Yes]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 25, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Before you make that bread, read some of these tips.
Baking expert Dan Lepard of The Guardian contacted great bakers around the world to compile this list of 30 baking tips. The list includes contributions from some of our favorite bakers, such as Dorie Greenspan, Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery, David Lebovitz, Fanny Zanotti, Peter Reinhart, and Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito of Baked. Tips deal with breads, desserts, money-savers, and holiday gift ideas.
Related
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First Taste: A Pizza Preview of Jim Lahey's Upcoming Pizzeria, Co.
Fanny on How To Get an Internship at a Pâtisserie in France
Interview With Macaron Specialist Dorie Greenspan
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 25, 2008 at 5:30 PM
At the Alinea Thanksgiving, there are two magic words: "plastic" and "bag." Earlier today, we showed you turkey, the Grant Achatz way. (aka, throw it into a plastic bag). Not much changes in the stuffing department. Achatz calls it his bag o' stuffing, in lieu of the more traditional cavity o' stuffing. Since he's such a pro, Achatz doesn't need tongs when placing bags into bubbling-hot water baths. He scoffs at tongs. He uses his bare hands.
For the pumpkin pie, Achatz gives the baggies a break to whip out the blowtorch. "This doesn't look like pumpkin pie. This looks like Alinea. With funny gels and stuff," noted Nick Kokonas, an Alinea business partner. Those gelatinous pumpkin-bourbon cubes get tempura-battered, fried, and pierced with a cinnamon stick that gets the blowtorch sizzle treatment. Part two of the Alinea Thanksgiving, after the jump.
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A, in M. F. K. Fisher's case, is not for apple—it's for dining alone. The full text of her 1949 series An Alphabet for Gourmets is now available online, appropriately enough, on Gourmet.com. W is for wanton.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 25, 2008 at 4:30 PM
If the sight of piles of packaged birds leaves a taste in your mouth as tart as raw cranberries, consider sponsoring a turkey this year. Adoption is very hot right now—it was only a matter of time before it began applying to other species.
For $25, your turkey gets to live at a shelter for farm animals and have his own Thanksgiving feast (of squash). Turkeys have been giving us wings and legs and breasts for centuries. This year, I'm giving them a little bit of heart. They are an American bird, after all, and deserve something to be thankful for like everyone else!
Adopt a turkey this year at Farm Sanctuary. I just did. He's the hot gobbler pictured above. His name is Apollo, and this is what he has to say, according to the adoption agency: "Tell the world we have arrived—and we're ready for pumpkin pie!"
Handsome, and eloquent. I couldn't be more proud!
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Posted by Leah Greenstein, November 25, 2008 at 3:45 PM
The hoards of people stocking up for the Thanksgiving holiday on Sunday made the Hollywood Farmers' Market (map) feel like Lollapalooza with vegetables, which means the upcoming Santa Monica market on Wednesday may end up looking like Burning Man at the beach. The best way to battle the crowds this time of year is to hit the market with a plan and a heavy helping of patience. With that in mind, the Southern California farmers' markets have almost everything you need to have a delicious Thanksgiving. Don’t forget to thank your farmers!
Turkeys
Dozens of people lined up early this morning to pick up their organic, pastured turkeys from the folks at Healthy Family Farms, who also had an on-farm pick-up day today out in Santa Paula and will be in Santa Monica on Wednesday with the last of the birds. In addition to raising Thanksgiving turkeys on their new 124-acre farm, Healthy Family also raises organic pastured ducks and chickens and makes delicious Artisan goat cheese year round.
Brussels Sprouts
Piles of brussels sprouts like tasty green marbles.
If you don't already have brussels sprouts on your Thanksgiving menu, make sure to add them. Finally in season, these miniaturized members of the cabbage family are the perfect, nutty-sweet foil to Thanksgiving fare, especially sautéed with butter and pancetta and drizzled with a bit of sherry wine vinegar. Unfortunately, too many people have had poorly cooked (read: boiled) brussels sprouts, giving these little green wonders a bad reputation that foodies of conscience should strive to reverse. Just remember, brussels sprouts emit sulfur compounds when overcooked, that's what makes them smell like the inside of a 12-year old boy's gym locker and wet matches. Find the smallest, brightest green sprouts available and cook them within a few days of buying them.
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 25, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Photographs from Phil Dokas and _nickd on Flickr
"During almost 60 years of American distribution, we found only 1 out of 49 men will drink Jeppson’s Malört.... It is not possible to forget our two-fisted liquor ... the first shot is hard to swallow!"
This is how Jeppson’s own marketing team describes its product.
A growing Flickr photo pool documents people's facial expressions on first trying a sip of the Chicago-made wormwood brew.
John Hodgman, however, doesn't seem to have too much of a problem guzzling the stuff (after the jump). [via Coudal Partners]
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Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 25, 2008 at 2:30 PM
The Grocery Ninja leaves no aisle unexplored, no jar unopened, no produce untasted. Creep along with her below, and read all her mission reports here.
Photograph from tisay on Flickr
Before I knew vanilla, I knew pandan. Mind-boggling, I realize, but I was well into my teenage years before I set eyes (and greedy hands) on a plump vanilla bean, whereas my family had a pandan plant growing right at our doorstep. In fact, the corridor we shared with our neighbors was lined with pots of it—Southeast Asian cooks use pandan leaves to scent their dishes so frequently that it would be unthinkable to not have any on hand.
Also called screwpine, pandan (like vanilla) lends itself to both sweet and savory dishes. One of my earliest tasks as mom’s kitchen helper was to run to the door, pluck a handful of pandan leaves, and rinse the dirt off them for her “meez.” Mom would tie the leaves in a big knot and toss them into her pot, use them to line steamer baskets, wrap them around meat for grilling, or pound them with a mortar and pestle to extract their sweet, faintly grassy, emerald green essence. From plain, steamed rice and rich chicken curries to light-as-air chiffon cakes and wobbly jellies, pandan would add an unmistakable, wonderfully fragrant note to the dishes.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 25, 2008 at 1:15 PM
Clockwise from top left: Beef, citrus, abalone, and strawberries.
While catching up on friends' blogs, I ran across a beautiful food-related stamp from Mexico on Robyn Lee's Tumblr account.*
A little digging, and I had this bit of info from Wikipedia:
From 1975 to 1993, Mexico issued a series of definitive regular and airmail stamps in a uniform style depicting a great variety of products Mexico exports, such as beef, bicycles, tomatoes, and chemicals, each stamp bearing the Exporta logo. The series was added to over the years, and there are a great number of variants of papers, sizes, colors, watermarks, and plate flaws. A number of the stamps had burelage printed on their surface. Specialists have also identified 14 different weights and grades of paper used on the stamps. As a result of the collecting challenges, the Exporta issue has received a great deal of attention by collectors and is the most popular modern series.
The illustrations are the work of Rafael Davidson. More on him, and more of his stamps, after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 25, 2008 at 12:15 PM
It's no surprise that the American patron saint of molecular gastronomy wouldn't be satisfied with a humdrum oven-roasted turkey. Alinea's Grant Achatz walks us through a sous vide Thanksgiving (this is just part one; another is on the way). When his business partner Nick Kokonas first suggested the oven, Achatz responded with a stunned "No!" Psh, are you kidding him? It wouldn't be the holidays without a vacuum sealer and immersion circulator! Actually, Achatz says Ziploc baggies will work just fine. He even assures NFL lovers that sous-viding will not inhibit football-watching. Video, after the jump.
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Posted by Alaina Browne, November 25, 2008 at 11:00 AM
Photo by kevindooley on Flickr
Portfolio magazine's brief primer on salt breaks down some of its different characteristics like color and shape and how they affect flavor.
Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York presents a tray of 10 different salts to diners, while the restaurant Cyrus in Healdsburg, California, has both Maldon sea salt and pink Hawaiian salt on its tables for diners to experiment with. Salt-centric boutique the Meadow in Portland, Oregon, has 85 to 90 different salts at any given time, according to co-owner and self-described “selmelier” Mark Bitterman. “We’ve doubled in size every year since we started in 2003, but I think we’ve just hit the tip of the iceberg,” says Naomi Novotny, vice president of specialty salt purveyor SaltWorks
What's your favorite salt, and how many kinds of salt do you keep on hand in your kitchen?
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Clean the rest of the house. Buy any last-minute things you might need, such as salad greens and bread (if you're not making your own).
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 25, 2008 at 10:45 AM
Wallace and Gromit, our favorite clay-modeled inventor and his beagle, take a break from cheese enthusiasm to become baking entrepreneurs. The thirty-minute short film A Matter of Loaf and Death will debut on BBC ONE in December, and be released on DVD next year.
Business is booming at their "Top Bun" bakery—where facilities include robotic kneading arms—until a cereal killer gets loose. Gromit is nervous (but can only make petrified facial expressions since he lacks an actual mouth for talking) while the endearingly absent-minded Wallace is in la-la land, pining for Piella Bakewell, a former Bake-O-Lite bread commercial star. This is the duo's first showing since the Oscar-winning film The Curse Of The Were-Rabbit in 2005. [via Kottke]
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 25, 2008 at 10:00 AM
I blog by day and wait tables by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
When I bring the dude at Bar-10 a menu and a wine list, he is talking intently on his cell. When I come back to pour him a glass of spicy Portuguese red, he is again parleying tense, intense conversation loudly into his phone.
So I go talk to someone else, then return to B-10. The man dramatically snaps his phone shut. "Whew, sorry. That was my ex-wife."
I splash some wine into a glass for him to taste.
"She still loves me." Uh oh. A bit too much information from a perfect stranger.
"Do you like the wine?"
"Yes. My girlfriend wants me to stop talking to the ex-wife. But we used to be married! And my ex-girlfriend is back in the picture. She still loves me, too. But I have a girlfriend. And we're living together."
This man wants nothing more than to deliver a gory play-by-play of his soap opera life. There's no stopping him. I learn all about the girlfriend, who loves nothing more than to cook for him. She makes quality pasta.
He goes on. His ex-girlfriend is in desperate need of cash. Yesterday, he left a few hundred bucks in an envelope with her name on it with his doorman. She came to pick it up and had a breakdown in the lobby of his building—tears, screaming, and all. Her heart was broken. She was broke. What a sad story!
The man at B-10, according to his tale, is rich as can be. His troubles are with this trio of women vying for his heart, not with his bank account. But I, like the rest of the world, am thinking about money more than usual these days. And of course I'm thinking that this guy is nuts.
Good Luck
No one talks about the economy at my place, really. It's depressing. Instead, we talk about our new boar sausage, and what pairs best with the pumpkin oatmeal cookie ice cream sandwich. I vote for Elysian Night Owl Pumpkin Ale, hands down. We chat about which jerky wine director got the boot at a place across town, and J.'s great new playlist, and Obama.
We're lucky. My place is thriving.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 25, 2008 at 8:30 AM
Smart Money did a side-by-side cost comparison of a Thanksgiving meal for eight using all organic ingredients and a feast using conventionally sourced stuff.
The verdict: The all-organic meal cost $295.36, almost $170 more than the regular meal ($126.75).
What drove the cost of the organic meal through the roof? Not surprisingly, it was the $99.80 20-pound organic turkey, which cost a whopping $76 more.
Serious eaters: How organic are you going this Thanksgiving?
Put another way, is your Turkey Day going to be more Alice Waters or Sandra Lee? [via New York Times]
Related: The Cost of a 10-Person Thanksgiving Is $44.61
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 24, 2008 at 8:30 PM
Mark Bittman, aka "The Minimalist," has just come out with a revised and expanded edition of his now classic cookbook, How to Cook Everything (Completely Revised 10th Anniversary Edition).
We asked Mark for a minimalist Thanksgiving menu, and here it is.
I love the idea of a turkey that only takes 45 minutes to cook.
Mark Bittman's 'How to Cook Everything' Thanksgiving Menu
Forty-Five Minute Roast Turkey
"It's almost a given that time and oven space are at a premium on Thanksgiving Day, and this method of roasting turkey, unorthodox as it is, addresses both. Split, flattened, and roasted at 450 degrees (lowering the heat if the bird browns too fast), a 10-pound bird will be done in about 40 minutes. Really. It will also be more evenly browned (all of the skin is exposed to the heat), more evenly cooked (the legs are more exposed; the wings shield the breasts), and moister than birds cooked conventionally. But it works only for relatively small turkeys."
Turkey Gravy
" 'Gravy' is little more than thickened stock--essentially a reduction sauce--and when that stock comes out of a roasted turkey, it's pretty good stuff. It's no wonder people love it. Double or triple (or quadruple, if it comes to that) this recipe as needed."
Favorite Bread Stuffing
"This classic dressing is based on a wonderful recipe by James Beard; it's amazing with butter, but check out the variations if you prefer olive oil. Also, feel free to use whole grain bread for more flavor."
Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger
"Quite tart and even better on turkey sandwiches. Stir in 1/2 cup of raisins and/or chopped walnuts or pecans at the end if you like."
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 24, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Through highly accurate and scientific means, The Onion has come up with the Top Thanksgiving Turkey Substitutes.
Related: Ten Turkey Tips You'll Be Thankful For
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 24, 2008 at 7:30 PM
"I wanna nog your egg."
If you watched Stephen Colbert's A Colbert Christmas last night, I'm sorry. That was an hour you'll never get back. Only marginally funny, the show's best bit was perhaps the John Legend performance. The R&B star played a visiting forest ranger singing a song about nutmeg.
Legend: "I'll sprinkle your Christmas cream with my spice supreme
Colbert: "What about all-spice?"
"You know it leaves me cold as ice"
"Cinnamon?"
"Don't even think of putting that in"
"Cardamom?"
"It won't let me drop my love bomb"
The video, after the jump.
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Congrats to wittybob, klp1965, janetfaye, MMinNYC, and happyfoodie. Winners of Martha Stewart's Cooking School have been notified by email and also appear on our Contest Winners page. Thanks to everyone who entered!
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“Now I can reflect back and I got a win over Mike Holmgren. That’s something. That’s not just split pea soup.” —Jim Zorn, Washington Redskins head coach [via Extreme Mortman]
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 24, 2008 at 6:15 PM
With all the channels on broadcast TV and cable—and the inevitable episode repeats—it's hard to sort out what's new or worthwhile. Let us sort it out for you so you don't miss anything worth watching. Times may vary with region; check your local listings for exact hour and channels.
Recommended Show: Take a break from cooking and hours of eating by watching A Charlie Brown Thanksgiving on Thursday night. 8 p.m. ET, ABC
Monday (November 24)
Modern Marvels: "The Turkey." The turkey is the centerpiece of Thanksgiving dinners and one of the dumbest birds in the animal kingdom, but it has managed to survive since the dinosaurs; Butterball factory; turkey hunting; dining on turkey testicles and eggs. 8 p.m. ET, History Channel
Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Not What You'd Expect." Outrageous food in unlikely places. 10 p.m. ET, Food Network
Tuesday (November 25)
Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern: "Holiday Special." Andrew invites a group of diverse friends from around the world to celebrate their respective holidays. 10 p.m. ET, Travel Channel
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 24, 2008 at 6:00 PM
MSNBC talking head Keith Olbermann was on The Martha Stewart Show today, and the two got around to talking about Sarah Palin's turkey pardon/slaughter. (Leave it to Olbermann to bring up Palin.) Jezebel's got video of the exchange (Martha: "We know they get slaughtered for Thanksgiving, but that was an especially gruesome scene back there").
We've already talked about the Palin turkey video. No, what we're interested in today is Olbermann's WKRP in Cincinnati reference. If you remember the show, you may remember the episode Olbermann refers to, in which the hapless fictional station does a live turkey giveaway for an on-air Thanksgiving promo. They decide to drop the live birds from a plane for lucky listeners to capture. Thing is ... turkeys don't fly. Video of the WKRP scene, after the jump.
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If you read about Swallow Magazine on Daily Candy earlier but were disappointed that the actual Swallow website had no pictures to peruse, check out Eat Me Daily. They've got a set of photos showing various spreads from the first issue of this new biannual food mag.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 24, 2008 at 4:50 PM
Every Thanksgiving we check in with food magazine editors around the country to see how they have gone about putting together their Thanksgiving issues. Food and Wine's editor in chief, Dana Cowin, gave us some insight into how the magazine does Thanksgiving.
How do the ideas get developed? We think first how we can help people make Thanksgiving dinner. We try solve their problems. That's how we come up with our chart to help people cook Thanksgiving, no matter what kind of meal they want to serve. A lot of people cook a lot of dishes and they need help with timing and cooking space, so we show people how to use a grill as an extra oven and how to use the residual heat of their hot oven. Other people just want to put together a really fast, fretless,Thanksgiving meal. There's still a third group who are interested in showoff meals. The chart helps all three groups.
You also feature a Thanksgiving by a chef in Philadelphia, Jose Garces. While we like to give people the basics, we like to do something dreamy but not inaccessible. This year we break out of the American mold with Jose Garces, whose food we love. People are interested in Latin and Mexican flavors, and Jose brings those flavors into a Thanksgiving feast.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 24, 2008 at 3:30 PM
In this photo, a woman is modeling her turkey feather wedding dress.
No, seriously. The caption reads, "Turkey feather wedding bride Barbara O. Ehrhart, posing with prize turkey carcass." It was taken in 1947, in Turlock, California, by Charles E. Steinheimer.
I don't know anyone, fashionista or not, who would wear turkey feathers for her wedding. Based on other photos in this series, it appears Ms. Ehrhart used turkey feathers in all her bridal party's dresses.
But the real question here is did they cook the turkey she is posing with for their wedding feast?
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 24, 2008 at 1:45 PM
Words by Michele Humes | My last apartment was right down the road from Baked, so I've had many an indulgent breakfast at the bakery by the sea. As the proprietors themselves admit, many of their breakfast items blur the line between breakfast and dessert—but they're treats well worth indulging in.
Now that I'm no longer a short walk away from their many-flavored biscuits and mile-high cakes, I'll be relying on this week's Cook the Book pick instead. In Baked: New Frontiers in Baking, co-owners Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito share recipes for such firm customer favorites as cherry-studded Black Forest Cookies and Chipotle Cheddar Biscuits.
Each day this week, we'll be posting one of the team's signature retro-chic recipes. Pumpkin Whoopie Pies cry out to be served at a Thanksgiving gathering; Millionaire's Shortbread (sort of like a very large Twix bar) and Root Beer Bundt Cake, with their fresh twists on nostalgic flavors, are sure to please a crowd. The first of this week's recipes will roll out shortly, but first ...
Win 'Baked: New Frontiers in Baking'
Thanks to the fine folks at Stewart, Tabori & Chang, we are giving away five (5) copies of Baked. In the comments below, just tell us the dessert you enjoyed most as a child—and whether you've outgrown it.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 24, 2008 at 12:15 PM
How did the Phillies become world champs this year? Maybe because their fans stay well-nourished with projectile hot dogs. Hatfield Meats and our favorite chubby green furball mascot, Phillie Phanatic engineered a hot dog launcher and documented (mockumented?) the planning phases, which were sometimes tense given the Phanatic's temper. Like all good ideas, it started with a dream: "I liked to shoot things as a kid," says co-creator Eric Haman. As far as flying objects go, these look tastier than a home run or foul ball. The video, after the jump.
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"Myth: The pilgrims wore large hats with buckles on them. The truth: None of the participants were dressed anything like the way they’ve been portrayed in art. The Pilgrims didn’t dress in black, didn’t wear buckles on their hats or shoes, and didn’t wear tall hats. The 19th-century artists who painted them that way did so because they associated black clothing and buckles with being old-fashioned." [Neatorama]
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Shop for the rest of your perishable ingredients.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 24, 2008 at 9:30 AM
Photograph from on Laughing Squid on Flickr
If Santa's belly could transform into coke bottles, this might be the portly result. Not sure if the marketing team also wanted the shape (originally designed as a Christmas ornament) to be associated with "bombs," but they do have that explosive device look. [via Laughing Squid]
Related
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Posted by Carey Jones, November 24, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Remember these guys?
Of course you do. There may well be a box stuffed in the back of your freezer—even if it’s been there since 1994. Back in my freezer-breakfast days, Eggo made one thing: waffles. And they looked just like this. (Except for the Guitar Hero ad.)
But these days, the supermarket Eggo section is stocked with unfamiliar specimens. Eggo Toaster Cinnamon Rolls? French Toaster Sticks? Bake Shop Swirlz? Mini Muffin Tops?
The waffles are just one box among many. As much as Eggo evolves, though, some things never change: Everything is compact and toaster-ready, and everything comes in a cheery yellow box.
So how do these newfangled Eggos stack up?
Cinnamon Roll Minis
Four to a waffle-sized sheet, these “cinnamon rolls” were puffy bits of yellow Eggo dough, stamped into a spiral, with tiny dabs of cinnamon filling and icing inside. The distinctive Eggo taste completely overwhelmed these little guys. The unbalanced ratio of filling-to-dough meant that, unless you really sought out the filling, you’d think you were just eating an awkwardly shaped classic Eggo.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 23, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Is your Thanksgiving menu low on hardcore, gut-busting, gluttonous dishes? Let Paula Deen be your guide! While searching the recipes on her website, we came across some eye-opening gems. You know, dishes that are probably delicious but we're hesitant to make because they might immediately block major arteries upon contact with our lips. Here are some of our favorites that reinforce our love for Paula:
Related
Paula Deen is Trying to Kill Us, Parts 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 23, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Alaina Browne, November 23, 2008 at 12:00 PM
©iStockPhoto/Professor25
The blueberry's tart cousin, the cranberry signals the arrival of the holiday season and will be found on most of our Thanksgiving tables. According to the The Oxford Companion to Food
, it's very likely that cranberries were a part of the first Thanksgiving feast:
"When the Pilgrim Fathers arrived in N. America they found a local cranberry, V. macrocarpon, which had berries twice the size of those familiar to Europeans, and an equally good flavour. American Indians were accustomed to eating these fresh or dried, and adding the dried fruits as an ingredient in Pemmican (a dried, preserved meat product)...It was no dobut these large American cranberries which, at an early stage in the evolution of Thanksgiving Day dinner, were made into sauce to accompany the turkey, which became established as its centerpiece."
Celebrate Thanksgiving with some of our favorite cranberry recipes.
Cranberry Recipes
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: If you bought a frozen turkey, start defrosting now.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 22, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Photograph from MetroWest Daily News
An unidentified meat lover in Framingham, Massachusetts, has been regularly leaving butcher-quality cuts of raw meat under a tree in the Town Centre Common since October. While dogs may be excited, people are just confused. After testing the meat, police and town officials have yet to determine its origins, but concluded that the meat doesn't seem to be tainted.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 22, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Deep fried turkeys may be delicious, but making them can result in serious burns if you don't follow safety precautions. To avoid having to call 911 because your house is burning down, get this Oilless Turkey Fryer for $199.
The fryer uses infrared cooking technology, which "penetrates meat evenly and seals in juices, resulting in a moist inside and crispy outside without the hassle or fat of cooking with oil." Just add your own propane tank and you're ready to go! [via Uncrate]
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 22, 2008 at 4:30 PM
World Leaders Eating While Rome (And Everywhere Else) Burns?
"Make them all eat instant ramen until they stop fighting and figure out how to fix some stuff." —madball911
Dispatch from the UK: Turkish Delight
"I had never heard of it until a box showed up at work last year. I love the rose candies. If I close my eyes I feel like I'm inside a rose. Another guy at work said it tasted like a grandmother. Guess its not for everyone." —christopher
In Videos: Snoop Dogg on 'Martha,' Making Cognac Mashed Potatoes
"This was pretty much the best video I've seen... EVER! If only to see Ms. Stewart say Crackalackin." —bobfole
Blood For Breakfast? Fear Not!
"I'd try it, and probably like it, but the thought of it gives me a small case of the creeps." —Laurel E
An Ode to the Morning Bun
"Count me in the sticky bun and coffee cake crowd.... but i gotta admit—that morning bun would sure go well with my coffee right NOW!" —MikeTheWaiterDotCom
'New Yorker' Turkey Cartoon Caption Contest
"I thought if it would work best if I quit Cold Turkey." —JudgeFudge
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 22, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 22, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Clockwise from top left: President Dwight D. Eisenhower carves a turkey, children in the U.K. eating Thanksgiving dinner, Thanksgiving at Byrd Station, foreign students experience the holiday.
More holiday images from the Life Photo Archive on Google. From military children celebrating Thanksgiving in the United Kingdom to Thanksgiving dinner in Antarctica at Byrd Station in 1964, it doesn't appear this holiday's feast has changed. While the clothing is different and most of the photos are in black and white, the people and the food are the same. Families are still apt to welcome friends and foreigners to their tables, all the while sticking to the basic turkey and various accompanying side dishes.
The image of Dwight D. Eisenhower's Thanksgiving meal in 1952 had me imagining what President-elect Barack Obama might have this year and if, someday, pictures of him carving a turkey will be in historical archives. And, what if we ever elect a vegetarian president? What would he or she carve?
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Prepare cranberry sauce and then refrigerate.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 21, 2008 at 9:30 PM
©iStockPhoto/MentalArt
We're all thinking about two things this time of year: turkey and eating turkey. To make both of these easier for serious eaters, we've compiled everything you need to know about turkey in one handy guide. Have a question we haven't answered? Leave a comment—serious eaters are always happy to help.
Serious Eats' Ten Turkey Tips You'll Be Thankful For
What Kind of Turkey to Buy
Last Thanksgiving, Ed grappled with all the
popular turkey adjectives: organic, heritage, kosher, and basted, for example. According to our research, these terms still mean the exact same thing as they did last year. We make it easy for you to understand with
How to Read Turkey Labels.
More tips, after the jump.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 21, 2008 at 7:30 PM
Yes We Can Eat Obama's Favorite Pizza: Our Chicago eater Daniel Zemans checks out Italian Fiesta Pizzeria and finds out just what our President-elect raved about.
Poetry In a Scottish Burger: Despite the traditional costumes in this California restaurant, Tam O'Shanter Inn is nowhere near Disneyland, though the house burger left Damon Gambuto with a smile on his face.
A Biscuit By Any Other Name: At Pine State Biscuit in Oregon, Allison Hemler digs into more then their delectable signature dish.
Txik...What?: Even though you might have a hard time saying Txikito, this Basque restaurant in Chelsea got an A- for food and atmosphere.
British Pizza: Bloomberg Television searches for the best pizza in London, the verdict: Franco Manca.
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 21, 2008 at 5:45 PM
With all the channels on broadcast TV and cable—and the inevitable episode repeats—it's hard to sort out what's new or worthwhile. Let us sort it out for you so you don't miss anything worth watching. Times may vary with region; check your local listings for exact hour and channels.
Recommended Show:
Tyler Florence is providing a compilation of Food Network's favorite Thanksgiving recipes with "All Star Thanksgiving Recipes" this Saturday night. I'm pretty much just interested in the turkey sweet potato shepherd's pie and pumpkin banana mousse tart. Saturday, 8 p.m. ET
Saturday (November 22)
Secrets of a Restaurant Chef (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "The Secret to Risotto." Mushroom risotto; frisee salad; warm bacon vinaigrette. 10:30 a.m. ET, Food Network
Down Home With the Neelys (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Home Sweet Home." Smashed broccoli mashed potatoes; chicken fried steak with gravy; berry-berry turnovers; iceberg wedges with creamy French dressing and bacon. 11 a.m. ET, Food Network
Giada at Home (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "California BBQ." Giada prepares a festive menu with Todd's favorites for an outdoor California style barbecue. 1 p.m. ET, Food Network
Barefoot Contessa (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Bread Winner." Salmon cakes; panettone bread pudding; pappa al pomidoro. 1:30 p.m. ET, Food Network
All Star Thanksgiving Recipes: Tyler Florence shows off some of Food Network's best recipes for Thanksgiving, straight from all of our favorite chefs. 8 p.m. ET, Food Network
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 21, 2008 at 4:00 PM
International Sandwich: Joshua Bousel takes the basic grilled cheese to new heights by creating a Middle Eastern grilled cheese on pita with dried mint.
Dairy-Free Pie: Who says you must have milk and butter to bake? Vegan cookbook author Dreena Burton shares her recipe for chocolate pumpkin pie—a dessert so good, no one will know it's vegan.
Eat Your Greens: And enjoy them too with a Martha Stewart recipe for Sicilian-style sauteed greens, a dish that can be made with kale, broccoli or spinach.
Beer for Breakfast: Well, maybe not a cold one, but Amanda Clarke suggests adding a brewski to your Belgian waffles to enhance the flavor.
Edible Bowl: When you stuff a bell pepper or tomato, you get the joy of eating your container as well. Tara Mataraza Desmond shares her Meat Lite dish for the week, stuffed poblanos with tomatillo salsa.
Dress the Salad Too: Just because the turkey gets all the attention, there's no reason to leave the lettuce bare, Nick Kindelsperger spruces his up with Thousand Island dressing, good also for a hearty Reuben sandwich.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 21, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Every Thanksgiving we check in with food magazine editors around the country to see how they have gone about putting together their Thanksgiving issues. Everyday Food's editor, Deb Puchalla, gave us some insight into how that Martha Stewart–owned mag does Thanksgiving.
How did you approach Thanksgiving at Everyday Food this year? We're five-years-old and we've done tactics and strategies, so this year we wanted to do something with feeling. We looked at different regions of the country for inspiration. So we have warm and fuzzy Southern Thanksgiving that's rich and a little heavy, we thought we would give it some energy. More people are guests than cooks at a Thanksgiving meal, so we wanted to have portable dishes. Myself, I'm going to my sister's house, so I'm bringing a side dish. People get creative with starters and side dishes.
What about the turkey? We feel compelled to do Martha's Turkey 101 and to cover basic roasting techniques. Everyone's worried about overcooking their turkey, so we have you basting frequently, adjusting the oven temperature, and letting it rest before you carve.
What are your Thanksgiving plans? I'm bringing two things to my sister's, cranberry sauce because I can make it a couple of days in advance—I might add a little ginger to give it some zip—and pear and almond cream tart. This is what we do in my family: We eat in moderation during feast so we can indulge ourselves with multiple desserts, and then we make killer sandwiches with the leftovers a couple of hours later.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 21, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Lucy Baker, November 21, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Thanksgiving is more than a little overwhelming. There's a turkey to roast, potatoes to mash, and pies to bake, not to mention hors d'oeuvres, first courses (green salad with cranberry dressing or butternut squash soup?), sauces, and condiments.
And while you'll never catch me scooping cranberry sauce from a can, or dipping my drumstick into bottled gravy, I will confess to baking last-minute cornbread from a box. Incredibly cheap, impossibly easy, and ready in minutes, cornbread mixes are a decent option when you're short on time yet still want to serve fresh-from-the-oven bread with your holiday meal.
With so many cornbread mixes on the market, I decided to limit my taste test to the three least expensive, most basic brands. With each, the yield was enough for an 8x8-inch pan of cornbread.
- Hodgson Mill, Whole Grain Cornmeal and Wheat Four Cornbread and Muffin Mix ($1.69)
- Jiffy, Corn Muffin Mix (40 cents)
- Key Food (supermarket generic), Quality Easy Corn Muffin Mix (45 cents)
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 21, 2008 at 1:30 PM
While watching TV last night, I caught the news snippet of Alaska Governor Sarah Palin pardoning a turkey and then talking to reporters about something afterward.
I have no idea what she was talking about, though, because I was too busy gawking at the turkey slaughter going on behind her. The video, after the jump. Don't worry, MSNBC, where the clip originated, has blurred any gory details.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 21, 2008 at 12:15 PM
A year and a half ago, Mike Sula of the Chicago Reader embarked on a project. The Whole Hog Project would follow three mulefoot pigs (Edna, Erma, and Endive) from birth (on a Wisconsin farm) to death (at a slaughterhouse) to an afterlife (at Chicago's Blackbird restaurant). The hairy oinkers, known for having uncloven hooves like mules, would be spotlighted in a fancy six-course dinner.
"I've never seen my food walking around before," his friend and and videographer throughout the project, Mike Gebert of Sky Full of Bacon, admitted. Why were they putting themselves through this? Mulefoot pigs are an endangered American breed that, two years ago, only had 200 to their name. While eating an endangered animal seems like a bad idea, farmer Linda Derrickson debunked this theory: “If you treat them like a zoo animal they’ll become zoo animals." To foster the animal's genetic vitality, you actually should eat them.
In an era of blogging and meta-blogging—when old-fashioned reporting can fall by the wayside—it was touching to stop and watch Sula's story unfold, in both words and Gebert's videos. Watch both parts of the Whole Hog Project, after the jump.
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Posted by Deb Harkness, November 21, 2008 at 11:15 AM
On Fridays, Deb Harkness of Good Wine Under $20 drops by with Serious Grape. This week, serving wine 101.
A lot of wine will be served at dinners all over America in the next week. There will be family dinners, pre-family dinners, Turkey Day dinners, and “We Survived!” dinners.
Naturally, a lot of people are wondering how to serve wine to maximize its flavor.
Here's a handy primer on how to serve wine, including how to chill wine quickly, proper serving temperatures for a range of popular wines, and whether or not you should let red wine breathe. You can use this advice all year around—but it's especially nice during the holidays to cross one worry off your list.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Purchase ingredients for cranberry sauce and any other things you want to prepare this weekend.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 21, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Photograph courtesy of Robb Walsh
Need another easy, filling and delicious finger food for your football parties? Robb Walsh of the Houston Press featured atomic deer turds as a treat for the Texas tailgaters.
Ground venison sausage, jalapenos, and cheese wrapped into a neat little ball? How could you go wrong? Walsh also lists variations on the dish by using different meats, cheeses, and animals to name the turds after. I for one love jalapeno poppers so this dish is right up my ally. What's your favorite gaming finger food?
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 21, 2008 at 9:00 AM
I had lots of lunches and dinners out this week, so my resolve was being tested on a twice-daily basis most of the week. I was with a chef friend/fellow dieter this week at my favorite ramen place Ippudo. He summed up our situation quite well: "Hey, we're fat guys who don't want to be fat any more. So we just have to eat half of what we're served." And that's just what we did.
There we were, slurping and spooning down bowls of delicious noodles, incredibly flavorful broth, and wonderful, just fatty enough slices of Berkshire pork, having a high old time, enjoying ourselves immensely, when we did the heretofore unthinkable.
Fifteen minutes into our bowls of stupendous soup we just said, in the immortal words of the great fighter Roberto Durán when he sat in his corner of the ring and didn't come out for another round of pummeling and pounding: "No Mas" (No More).
More "No Mas," after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 21, 2008 at 7:30 AM
For the times you want quick, easy scrambled eggs, minus the eggs: here's a recipe for tofu "scram." Chris Brunn of Gapers Block combines tahini, sesame seeds, soy sauce, lemon, and ripped-up pieces of tofu. He recommends tofu with a firm, solid texture.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 20, 2008 at 7:00 PM
My father, a bonafide anglophile, warned me: "When you move to England, watch how they eat!"
"What do you mean, dad?" I laughed at him. "Don't they eat like everyone else?"
"No—you'll see. They pile everything up on their fork as if they were stacking up a Leaning Tower of Peas at the end of their tines."
Sure enough, as is usual, my father was completely right. There's a lot of chat about which way of eating is correct: the European method, where the fork remains in the left hand, and the knife in the right, or the American method, where the fork rests in the left hand while the food is being cut, and then moved to the right in order to eat.
But what about the English method?
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 20, 2008 at 6:30 PM
Photograph from spiffae on Flickr
I've found myself in this same position many times while trying to figure out what to eat in the food court at Japanese shopping center Mitsuwa in New Jersey. It's hard to choose from so many enticing bowls of meticulously arranged plastic food—plastic food that looks surprisingly close to the real thing. This display doesn't actually glow green in real life, but I like the eerie feeling it gives the photograph taken by Ben Duchac.
Related
Jersey 'Food Court' Dispatch: Mitsuwa Marketplace
I Bought the Entire Spinal Column of a 700-Pound Tuna (Oh, Yes I Did)
Battle of the Fake Food Chefs
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 20, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Every year on the third Thursday in November, corks pop at midnight in celebration of the arrival of the year's Beaujolais Nouveau, a light, fruity red wine from the Beaujolais region in France. While the wine's debut is a celebration for its home country, in the United States this wine symbolizes Thanksgiving. It's also cheap, easy to find, and very drinkable.
Gary Vaynerchuk, author of 101 Great Wines, described the wine as having, "Aromas of fresh rhubarb pie and little hints of black pepper." The flavor, he wrote, is, "Full of beautiful, complex fruit, with a slight soapy quality. It's like Mr. Bubbles meets Smucker's jam." Even with that slightly off putting description, Vaynerchuk actually loves Beaujolais Nouveau.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 20, 2008 at 5:30 PM
Photograph by Alicia Mazzara of DCist
What's better than pumpkin pie? Deep fried pumpkin pie! Alicia Mazzara of DCist shows you how to make deep fried pumpkin pies with her recipe and photo gallery. "These delicate, flaky hand pies are like biting into a cinnamon sugar doughnut with a pumpkin center," she says. How could anyone resist? How?
Related
Baking With Dorie: Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie
Dreena's Chocolate Pumpkin Pie
Spiced Pumpkin Pudding Pie
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 20, 2008 at 5:15 PM
Each week we round up our favorite posts and recipes from our friends at The Kitchn.
This week, the Kitchn confronts the annual late-November question: white vs. dark meat. The taste difference lies in the bird's muscle tissues. Dark meat is gamier because of the chemicals, proteins, and fats in the wing and thigh muscles.
Also on the Kitchn, California cuisine, making instant oatmeal sans Mr. Quaker, ripening green tomatoes, and cranberry sauce not-from-a-can.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 20, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Earlier this week Google made the web a cooler place by adding historic photos from Life magazine to its image archive. We took a look around to check out how Thankgivings past looked.
Today, here's a photo of different types of fruit relish from 1959. LIFE featured these dishes as a substitute for cranberries, which were banned at the time because of contamination. The berries had been dusted with a weed-killer called aminotriazole, which caused cancer in rats. This scare came two weeks before the holiday, causing desperate housewives (the 1950s kind) to seek other options.
Lucky for the cranberry lovers out there, in 2008 our ruby-red side dish is safe to eat.
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Posted by Michael Nagrant, November 20, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Sometimes when you get pretty much everything you want, the few things you can’t get take on a much bigger sense of importance than they deserve. This has generally been true regarding beer in Chicago. Home to great local breweries like Two Brothers, Goose Island, Three Floyd’s—and not to mention mega-stores like Sam’s and Binny’s replete with aisles and aisles filled with more craft brewed beers than there are stuffed animals at an FAO Schwarz—you’d think we’d be sated.
But, no, we're not. For years, we longed for that Texas export Shiner Bock or the sweet lager of Brooklyn Brewery, and more recently the brews of Bell’s from Kalamazoo, Michigan, when they lost their distributorship. In these parts, securing a box of New Glarus Spotted Cow (not sold outside of Wisconsin) is akin to scoring a bag of premium of Humboldt County’s top notch kush. But, while some of these brews have been worth the wait, most of them weren’t much better or more distinctive than our bevy of homegrown options.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 20, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
Continue reading »
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Posted by Gordon Mark, November 20, 2008 at 2:30 PM
If you're looking to get a new food-related videogame, decide what's worth playing by checking out these trailers for the recently released Cooking Mama: World Kitchen, and the upcoming What’s Cooking? with Jamie Oliver and Iron Chef America: Supreme Cuisine. Watch the videos after the jump.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 20, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Last year, in our Store-Bought Stuffing Mix Showdown, all the boxed stuffing contestants were priced between $2.49 and $4.99. This year, we decided to defy the recession and test-run Williams-Sonoma's La Brea boxed stuffings, priced at the comparatively astronomical $10 to $12 per box.
I tested the two flavors on offer this year: Harvest Blend, with pecans and cranberries, and Classic, with Herbes de Provence and chestnuts. While the Harvest Blend is the pricier of the two at $12, the pecans and cranberries are included in the box, while the recommended roasted chestnuts for the Classic are sold separately at a whopping $16.50 a jar.
So how did they fare among our eager Serious Eaters?
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 20, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Fill the cylinder of the Turkey Cannon with your favorite cooking liquid, stick a turkey on it, and let it roast to perfection. Like in a beer can chicken, the liquid helps cook and flavor the bird from the inside, resulting in a faster cooking time and more flavor. [via CNET]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 20, 2008 at 12:00 PM
When humans leave the room, and the turkey decorations are left alone in the kitchen, they can't help themselves. They must attack the pumpkin pie. While squawking with joy, their little paper bodies try to digest. Holiday centerpieces seem so harmless and inanimate, but key word: seem. The poor cat—the more likely pie attacker—will probably get all the blame. The video, after the jump.
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 20, 2008 at 11:15 AM
If I could choose to live anywhere in Portland, it would be right near Pine State Biscuits. A staff of friendly twenty-somethings run the kitchen stations, cranking out orders of their famous biscuits slathered in sausage or mushroom gravy, with fried chicken, eggs cooked to order, and various seasonal sides—including hash browns, grits, and braised greens. You can expect to wait on a weekend morning—ours, including the line and food preparation, was about a half hour. This is not a brunch spot to linger at, so tables turn over frequently.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Start cleaning your house.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 20, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Photo by Lani Bouwer
Despite my love for Thanksgiving food stuffs, not everyone chooses to indulge in the succulent turkey, meaty gravy, or butter-filled mashed potatoes. They choose to go the vegan route. But just because the meal lacks meat or dairy products doesn't mean they can't celebrate with a delicious Thanksgiving feast.
I asked Dreena Burton, blogger and author of Eat, Drink & Be Vegan, Vive le Vegan! and The Everyday Vegan, about what she will be serving during her meatless holiday. She recommended:
I also hit up a couple of veganish friends of mine, Lani Bouwer and Halston Bruce. Lani has hosted or attended vegan Thanksgiving for the past four years, usually bringing her staple dish, Vegan Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes. Halston, who has recently gone raw food crazy, recommended Mushroom Gravy.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 20, 2008 at 8:30 AM
When I made a list of interesting people I wanted to interview on camera for a series called Chewing the Fat, Alton Brown was at the top of the list. Why? Because whenever I have watched him on the Food Network or chatted with him (ever so briefly) when I was an Iron Chef judge, I have always found Alton to be interesting, provocative, smart, and funny. We were thrilled when Alton agreed to do it. Who did we get to shoot, direct, and edit the Alton videos? None other than Hamburger America director and author George Motz.
On this week's Chewing the Fat, Alton Brown talks about what he discovered about the whole notion of hospitality when he hit the road in Feasting on Asphalt. We figured hospitality is a worthy subject come holiday time. Alton says that regrettably hospitality has come to mean showmanship. That, he says, is not what eating food that's been cooked for us is all about.
The Feasting on Asphalt DVDs are available at Foodnetwork.com and the book is available at Amazon.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 20, 2008 at 12:30 AM
What possessed me to volunteer for Top Chef blogging duty? By 11 p.m. I am usually asleep in my comfy chair strategically located in front of the TV. Don't worry, serious eaters. I will persevere. I am your loyal and humble Serious Eats Top Chef correspondent, at least for the time being. And, by the way, I'm totally hooked. I have a Top Chef jones. In fact, I found myself really looking forward to tonight's episode, especially when I found out the first challenge involved hot dogs. I got to trot out the "dog eat dog" play on words. What else could a food writer want? Go, Eugene, Mr. Hawaiian, who started as a dishwasher, go. As for you, Stefan, the man with the Euro-centric attitude, I know you can cook, but I hope you crash and burn. Boy, I'm all riled up about this, aren't I?
On to the show, where, as Fabio put it, "It's not how many dragons you kill, it's who takes home the princess."
[Warning, spoilers ahead.]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 19, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Thanksgiving is a fascinating holiday. We run around combining canned things with boxed things with jarred things. While the meal is arguably the tastiest of the year, some familiar ingredients are strange. A good strange. A strange we love to hate. But strange nonetheless. It's this gastronomic oddballness that unites us as American eaters each November.
Canned Cream of Mushroom Soup
A man in a suit must have said, "How can we sell more boxed onion strings?" And so the dependence on canned cream of mushroom soup was born. The familiar murky-colored sludge contains a mushroom fleck or two. Dare we suggest a replacement in green bean casserole? Oh, how the onion strings would throw a fit! And let's be honest, dinner guests might too. (Well done, boxed onion string moguls. We are hooked.)
Alternative: Anthony Bourdain's mushroom soup
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 19, 2008 at 6:45 PM
Photograph by David Hagerman of Eating Asia
If you find yourself in Jakarta, this looks like the man you'd want to buy your satay (or "sate" in Indonesian) from. Between his happy face and confident stance holding that wad of stick meat, I would trust anything he cooks. Robyn Eckhardt of Eating Asia was lucky enough to try his food after waiting in a long line. (Smiling Satay Man seems to have a following.)
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Posted by Jamie Forrest, November 19, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Yes I am, according to a Chow video called "How to Serve and Cut Cheese" with Laura Werlin, noted cheese expert and author of many books including The New American Cheese.
There aren't any hard and fast rules when serving cheese—or any other food, really. You're only doing it wrong if you don't like the end result.
Serving cheese should be easy, not fussy; it should be fun, not stressful. That said, some of the guidelines in the video can help direct you towards a positive cheese-serving experience.
Serving tips, after the jump.
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According to the Boston Globe, recent brain scans and genetic testing suggest that some people overeat because they don't get as much pleasure out of food (which is linked to the hormone ghrelin) so they keep eating in an attempt to feel satisfied.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 19, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
Continue reading »
Comments are Closed.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 19, 2008 at 1:45 PM
Every Thanksgiving we check in with food magazine editors around the country to see how they have gone about putting together their Thanksgiving issues. The reductive and obsessive Chris Kimball, founding editor and publisher of Cook's Illustrated and host of America's Test Kitchen, is always refreshingly honest and forthcoming.
"I am not in favor of green vegetables. I'm a white, tan, and orange food guy."
Your subhead on the pumpkin pie piece in the magazine is fighting words in some quarters: "The best thing about pumpkin pie is that you only have to eat it once a year." Once in awhile we do back and do something again if we learn something about it in the interim. I made our old pumpkin pie recipe for years. It was fine but not fabulous, so I gave it to our test cooks and told them start again. I really like what they came up with [recipe]. In a custard pie there is no reason to use fresh sweet potatoes or fresh pumpkin for that matter.
For your turkey recipe this year you take apart the bird. Turkey parts is radical, I know. I don't cook my turkey this way, but it does solve the problem of the white meat drying out [recipe]. Cook's Illustrated is a democracy, it's a republic, it's not a monarchy, we don't tell people what to cook, we simply respond to surveys of what people want to talk about. The fact is a lot of people don't want to flip a 20 pound bird. I personally don't care about the skin, if you want crispy skin you have to do a lot more work. My attitude is it's 50 percent easier not to worry about the damn skin.
Tell us about your green beans. This is a variation on a theme [recipe]. You combine steaming and sauteing. This recipe starts with sauteing and then you end up steaming the green beans for a couple of minutes. It's a basic approach to vegetables on a stove top that works really well.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 19, 2008 at 12:30 PM
I thought this edamame popping keychain was cute, but it's got nothing on Mameshiba, a Japanese character of a bean that looks like a dog; "mame" means bean and "shiba" is a dog breed. The first time I watched this compilation of Mameshiba animations I flipped out, hardly able to contain the cuteness that is a fat, little green bean dog head popping out of an edamame pod. Even natto—fermented soybeans—look cute.
Your reaction might be different, especially if you can understand what the bean dogs are saying. Commenters at Cute Overload point out that each bean spurts out a random fact, or "mame-chishiki" (trivia, or bean knowledge), right before its supposed to be eaten. This video in particular is a remix of the real episodes, turning already useless facts into absurd non-facts. Watch the video and read the translation after the jump. (And if you're interested, there's a Mameshiba version of the edamame keychain, which you can currently pre-order.)
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 19, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Photograph from greenwenvy08 on Flickr
According to Jennifer 8. Lee of the New York Times, Costco—which has a well-deserved reputation as a progressive, worker-friendly company—doesn't take food stamps. This makes no sense.
Lee reports that Costco offered three reasons for this:
1. They did not think they would qualify based on the federal government requirements.
2. It was too expensive to adapt their equipment to accept food stamps.
3. With their annual fee/bulk-purchase model, people on food stamps probably could not shop there anyway.
Lee's story painstakingly refutes each of these rationales. The fact that this policy continues in the midst of our economic meltdown seems particularly cruel and nonsensical.
And given Costco's progressive reputation, it's ironic that the Times is also reporting today that "Wal-Mart Stores Inc. plans to give more than 90 million pounds of fresh food annually to the nation’s largest nonprofit organization addressing hunger, Feeding America."
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Clean out refrigerator, no holds barred.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 19, 2008 at 10:15 AM
When I was a little girl, the Turkish Delight existed only as a fictional confection in the winter wonderland of Narnia's The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. I asked every adult I knew if they could tell me what Turkish Delight was, that sugary sensation that led Edmund to betray his family and country in order to live with the murderous White Witch. But no one knew—so I conceded that it was a delicious figment of C. S. Lewis's imagination.
I waited until I was twenty-four years old to taste Edmund's Adam's apple. And then I found it, behind the glass of a British sweets shop, plump and dusted in a White Witch's snow shower of sugar.
For those like me, who lived in ignorance, Turkish Delight is a soft jelly candy, squares of squishy rose and lemon. The sweet inner gushing bite is tempered by the not-quite-sweet starchy outer sugar that, like a pleasant detergent, washes the cloying syrupiness away. There's something about it that always reminds me of a prim and happy and bright English Christmas. Not exactly worth betrayal and treason, but good enough to justify the sugar-snow mustache.
Turkish Delight: Does it still live in your imagination, or have you tried it? And if the latter, did it live up to your childhood expectations?
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"Turkey Day is my Olympics!" —Serious Eats community member JerzeeTomato, in a comment from last year that we just rediscovered today. Trotting it out again this year because, really, it's timeless.
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Posted by Carey Jones, November 19, 2008 at 8:30 AM
There are several schools of thought when it comes to breakfast pastries. There are the French loyalists, who rely on a time-honored repertoire of croissants, brioche, and pain au chocolat. Then there’s the anything-goes sweet tooth contingent—lovers of sticky buns and coffee cake, donuts and muffins, not bound by patisserie tradition but looking for a breakfast that’s gooey and satisfying.
Can these two camps ever reach across the aisle? Yes, they can—in the morning bun.
In my mind, the morning bun is the perfect synthesis of the classic croissant and the irresistible sticky bun. Call it a croissant in cinnamon roll clothing. It’s made of a buttery croissant dough, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar (and often walnuts or pecans), then rolled into spirals. Each one is baked in a muffin tin, and when the morning buns rise, they spill up and out of their little slots. Kept in close quarters, the bottom stays a bit doughy, like a sticky bun interior, while the top lifts into an appealingly flaky, cinnamon-speckled dome.
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After working in Britain, Poles are returning home with tastes for shortbread, speciality teas, and honey-infused bitter. Insert Polish joke here. (And I can say that, 'cause I'm Polish.)
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 18, 2008 at 6:30 PM
The striking images above are by Corey Arnold, whose website bio reads as such:
Corey Arnold is a photographer and Alaskan crab fisherman. During October, January and February he can (or cannot) be found aboard the F/V Rollo in the Bering Sea. The rest of the year is packed with travel, gallery exhibitions, magazine and ad photography assignments with a bit of backyard gardening, cat maintenance, and skateboarding in Portland, Oregon.
Arnold's photos from his Fish-Work series go on view tomorrow at Charles A. Hartman Fine Art in Portland, Oregon (134 NW 8th Avenue, Portland OR 97209; map; 503-287-3886), and will be up through December 20. [via Sullivan]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 18, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Sushi Time is a new iPhone app meant to demystify potentially scary sushi terms. For example, you enter “fugu," swipe the screen, and there's a photo of what resembles yellow-tail, but wait. It's potentially toxic, says the magic phone. Phew, good thing you didn't order that craziness. [via Jamie Forrest]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 18, 2008 at 5:15 PM
Snoop Dogg was on Martha today, making cognac mashed potatoes.
I prefer butter. Lots and lots of butter. And here's how Martha prefers them. Video, after the jump. [via Kathryn Yu]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 18, 2008 at 5:00 PM
From the Telegraph:
For Feast, a forthcoming series due on Channel 4 early next year, Heston [Blumenthal] interprets historical banquets and cooks an entire pig in a sous-vide.
"We couldn’t find a water bath big enough so we went to a hot-tub warehouse," he says. "We took the limiters off so it went up to 62C and we cooked it at this temperature for a day and a half. Then we spit-roasted it, cranking the heat up so it got the browning. It was the best pig that I ever tasted."
The rest of the profile is worth reading, too. And there are recipes for cooking with sherry.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 18, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Images from Guy Fieri's T.G.I. Friday's commercial.
A recent conversation between T.G.I. Friday's spokesman Guy Fieri and a TMZ cameraman:
TMZ: “I thought you only eat at Friday’s.”
Fieri: “No, I’m a Food Network chef, man, so I just do commercials for Friday’s. You know how it is.”
TMZ: “You like Friday’s?”
Fieri: “It’s a good gig.”
TMZ: “Good there?”
Fieri: “They back up one of my shows, called Ultimate Recipe Showdown.”
[via Food Network Addict]
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 18, 2008 at 3:15 PM
I am first-generation American, and because my mother and her whole family is French, I have been given creative license over "my" holiday, Thanksgiving, since childhood--when I decided turkey was repugnant and ordered hot dogs from my mother's kitchen.
My tastes have since evolved into something more traditional, but my family, those dear stubborn Frenchmen, would never tolerate green bean casserole and corn bread. Some of the French people in my family, who will remain nameless, think corn is on this earth entirely to feed pigs, and they will not go near the stuff.
My family regards Thanksgiving as an excuse to feast, and with certain condescension to American tradition, we do feast quite Frenchly indeed. We start with the turkey, rubbed in herbes de Provence, and serve it with pomegranate-seared wild mushrooms, haricots verts amandine, potatoes au gratin, and granita made from Norman apple cider.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 18, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 18, 2008 at 2:45 PM
Turduckens and churkeys were so five minutes ago. A quaducant—following the Russian matryoshka nesting doll model of meat—would be quail's breast meat stuffed in duck's breast meat stuffed in a deboned pheasant. Buy a six-pounder on Cajun Grocer for $59.95. Meat multi-tasking like you've never seen it before.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 18, 2008 at 1:45 PM
In this week's New Yorker food issue, the cartoon caption contest involves a man holding a big turkey under his arm. Got a good caption idea? According to a Slate piece earlier this year, you want to get inside the man's head and make sense of his bird-holding beliefs and intentions.
Finalists for this week's cartoon will appear online Monday, December 1 and in the December 8 print issue.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 18, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Nationalism can be expressed in anthems, sports teams, and now, dinner plates. Eat that corned beef on an Ireland-shaped dish and your kraut on the "Czech combo" (a dish combining the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, and Hungary). Each is white, ceramic, and $17.99. [via Neatorama]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 18, 2008 at 11:15 AM
Photograph from cobalt123 on Flickr
"The American Farm Bureau Federation’s 23rd annual informal price survey of classic items found on the Thanksgiving Day dinner table indicates the average cost of this year’s feast for 10 is $44.61, a $2.35 price increase from last year’s average of $42.26."
How much are you spending on dinner this year? Cutting back?
[Voice of Agriculture, via Epi-Log]
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Stock up on liquor and wine.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 18, 2008 at 10:00 AM
As a part of our Celebrity Chefs Holiday series, some of America's best-known chefs and food television personalities share their favorite holiday dishes, provide recipes for them, and even tell us who will be at their holiday tables. Today we talk to Bobby Flay, famed restaurateur, Food Network personality, and cookbook author.
What's your favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal? My favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal is definitely the "oyster" of the turkey. It's usually my first taste of turkey of the day and usually the best.
What are you doing for Thanksgiving this year? I cook Thanksgiving every year at my apartment in New York, and we usually have about 40 people. It ranges from family to good friends and some of my employees from the restaurants who can't make it to their hometown for the holidays. This year's menu will have a Latin flavor with influences from Cuba, Spain, and South America. Just a couple of examples: The turkey will be roasted with chimichurri, the sweet potatoes will be combined with mashed plantains, and the cranberries will be sweetened with guava.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 18, 2008 at 9:30 AM
This may look like death by chocolate, but terminal baker Amanda of Slow Like Honey made it as an attempt to live for herself after burning out baking for other people. This dessert, a brownielike chocolate cake peppered with chunks of toffee, was, in her words, entirely selfish. "It encompasses all the things I need in a dessert. Sweet and salty. Moist yet firm. Highly addicting, seriously. If you are looking for something to eat straight out of the pan, then you’ve found it."
Hey, Amanda, we know you were doing this dessert for yourself, but how about making us one?
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 18, 2008 at 8:30 AM
I blog by day and wait tables by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
I remember winding down one of the first nights of service at my restaurant. We counted the money. To our happy surprise, it was a record-breaking night. We were all going home with plenty of cash.
We had opened just a few weeks ago, and we were still un-kinking the numerous kinks in our operation. My boss got to talking about how he hoped (and knew) his restaurant beat the many restaurants where he had worked as a waiter as a place to work. It beat them pretty hard.
“This is the best waiter job,” was the conclusion. Since then, I’ve thought a bunch about that proclamation, and concluded that in many ways, it is.
Here are my requisites for optimal serving conditions:
The Food and Drinks Rock
I’m not a great actor. If I’m really digging the crunchy, succulent wild mushroom arancini, I will tell you how awesome it is—with bubbly, sincere enthusiasm. If I think our new Japanese beer tastes like laundry detergent, any praise for it will sound half-hearted and unconvincing.
I am great at selling what I love. I think you’ll love it too. I want you to partake in the deliciousness. If I haven’t tried it, or if it is less than great, I’m not going to push it, and I’m certainly not going to push it well.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 17, 2008 at 7:00 PM
It's good to know a po'boy preservation society exists. These dedicated folks organized the second annual Po'Boy Preservation Festival, happening this Sunday on five blocks of Oak Street in New Orleans. We were at last year's inaugural fest, and this year the same po'boy fanaticism is expected—panelists on the sandwich's history, a taste-test from local vendors, and even some love for the po'boy's Italian cousin, the muffuletta.
Many theories exist as far as the naming genesis goes: a derivation of the French "pour boire" (literally means "to drink," but colloquially, a "peace offering.") Or they were the free sandwiches given to strikers (the poor boys) in a 1929 strike against a New Orleans streetcar company. Or just a Franglais hodgepodge of a phrase, "pour le boy."
Regardless, it's baguettelike bread filled with shrimp, oyster, catfish, spicy sausage, roast beef, or soft-shell crabs. Even French fries get in there sometimes. This year, about 30 vendors are competing for the "Golden Loaf Award," including Parkway Bakery (roast beef po'boy), Jacques-Imo's Café (duck), and Acme Oyster House (the classic oyster and shrimp). The event homepage even has a live countdown until Sunday's fest.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 17, 2008 at 6:30 PM
This weekend EU officials met with representatives from developing nations to conclude a G-20 summit focused on how the economy will affect the world's poorest.
What was on the dinner menu? According to MSNBC:
Fruitwood-smoked Quail with Quince Gastrique; Quinoa Risotto; Landmark Chardonnay “Damaris Reserve” 2006; Thyme-roasted Rack of Lamb, Tomato, Fennel and Eggplant Fondue; Chanterelle Jus; Shafer Cabernet “Hillside Select” 2003; Lolla Rosa, Red Oak and Endive; Cider Vinaigrette; Baked Vermont Brie with Walnut Crostini; Pear Torte; Huckleberry Sauce; Chandon Étoile Rosé.
Said one commenter: "Leaders are only at the G-20 Summit for the meal."
Here's the question of the day, serious eaters. Should our world leaders be chowing down on such fancypants fare in the midst of the global financial tsunami?
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 17, 2008 at 5:15 PM
With all the channels on broadcast TV and cable—and the inevitable episode repeats—it's hard to sort out what's new or worthwhile. Let us sort it out for you so you don't miss anything worth watching. Times may vary with region; check your local listings for exact hour and channels.
Recommended Shows: Food Network features a mini-series of Thanksgiving-themed shows to inspire and assist home cooks during the holiday season. Dear Food Network will feature answers from all the network's chefs including personal favorites Alton Brown, Ina Garten, and Michael Symon. One episode to record is Thursday night—it's all about Thanksgiving leftovers. Monday through Thursday, 9 p.m. ET
Monday (November 17)
Good Eats (warning, a video plays automatically on site: "American Classics: Creole in a Bowl." Alton explores the cultural and historical influences on the New Orleans classic, beans and rice. 8 p.m. ET, Food Network
Dear Food Network (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Thanksgiving Disasters." Guy Fieri, Tyler Florence, Michael Symon and Sunny Anderson, rescue viewers from Thanksgiving Day disasters. 9 p.m. ET, Food Network
Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Real Deal Italian." Guy checks out classic Italian eateries in Baltimore, San Diego and Pittsburgh. 10 p.m. ET, Food Network
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 17, 2008 at 4:45 PM
We've listed a few of our favorite New York City Thanksgiving restaurant menus, but if you want a broader selection, or live anywhere else, try OpenTable's Thanksgiving reservation selection. You pick your city, then neighborhood, and up pops a list of restaurants offering Thanksgiving reservations, along with a short menu description, price, and service hours. Then you just click to make your reservation online. Much easier than brining a turkey.
Directions: Visit OpenTable.com, select your region, then scroll down for the Thanksgiving 2008 link. You can then tweak your neighborhood, cuisine, and price. Happy Thanksgiving!
Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Denver, Houston, Las Vegas, Los Angeles/Orange County, Miami/Southeast Florida, Minneapolis-St. Paul, New York City, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Washington, D.C.
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Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 17, 2008 at 3:15 PM
The Grocery Ninja leaves no aisle unexplored, no jar unopened, no produce untasted. Creep along with her below, and read all her mission reports here.
I believe the simplest dishes are also the easiest to mess up. Take the plain omelet, for instance, or just steamed rice—both are so clean of flavor, so unadulterated, that there's nothing for you to hide your mistakes behind. No cloak of smoky spices, no razzle-dazzle of MSG—just the purest expressions of egg and grain.
And so it is the case with kaya—a rich, fragrant custard that South-East Asians like to slather, along with a generous dollop of salted butter, on their morning toast. Made with eggs, coconut milk, and sugar, there are many, many online posters who promise that kaya is a cinch to make—so long as you have the patience for it. And that, I guess, is my problem. I have zero patience for standing over a pot, stirring spoon in hand, steam fogging up my glasses. (It's the reason why I never make risotto.)
And yet, the silken, caramel sweetness of kaya, with its siren song of unctuous coconut bewitches me. Three times I have attempted to make the stuff form scratch, and three times I have ended up with a pan full of scrambled eggs. Sweet, coconutty, completely unsalvageable scrambled eggs.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 17, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 17, 2008 at 2:40 PM
Baskin-Robbins has a turkey cake which, fortunately, is supposed to taste like cake, not turkey. Instead of stuffing, there's ice cream inside (your choice of flavor) and those aren't turkey legs, they're sugar cones. Does this make anyone else really happy? Serves 12 to 16 mouths, and available at select locations for $37.58.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 17, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Words by Michele Humes | Martha Stewart doesn't do things in half measures. Whether it's cookies or canapés, Stewart aims to be comprehensive and definitive. (She succeeds—I consider her Hors d'Oeuvres Handbook to be the font of all finger-food knowledge.)
Her latest enterprise, Martha Stewart's Cooking School, is downright encyclopedic. Only Martha could pull off a textbook that looks like a glossy magazine and reads like a conversation. And what a conversation. In this book, you'll learn how to sharpen a knife, make fresh pasta, identify cuts of meat, and master the soufflé. The book stays current by supplementing the traditional French curriculum with American and international flavors: There are detailed guides to Indian and Southeast Asian spices, dashi gets equal billing with classic French stocks, and the Great American Hamburger has its very own section.
Each day this week, we'll be posting a classic recipe that will stand you in good stead this Thanksgiving. Perfect Turkey Gravy, Garlic Rosemary Mashed Potatoes, and One-Bowl Chocolate Cupcakes aren't going to blow you away with innovative flavor combinations—the wow factor is in the flawless technique.
Win 'Martha Stewart's Cooking School'
Thanks to the good folks at Clarkson Potter, we are giving away five (5) copies of Martha Stewart's Cooking School. In the comments below, just tell us your favorite Martha Stewart recipe of all time—we all have one!
Contest will end and comments will close at 3 p.m. ET, Monday, November 24, 2008. One entry per community member. The standard Serious Eats contest rules apply.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 17, 2008 at 12:30 PM
Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fishes (MAFF) put together a little Sims-like video to highlight the state of the country's food supply. Japan imports 60 percent of its food, and the ministry points out that has led to the fattening of the Japanese people and presents a security issue as the global population grows. It's fun to watch the little isometric illustrations do their thing, but it brings up an important issue that all nations should be considering. The vid, after the jump.
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Posted by Deb Harkness, November 17, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Each week, Deb Harkness of Good Wine Under $20 drops by with Serious Grape. This week, some welcome advice, whether you're hosting or attending a holiday dinner.
"It helps to remember that what your guests will talk about the next day is not the wine."
People start sending me queries about Thanksgiving wine in September. Every year, I'm struck all over again by how completely stressed out people get about what wine they should pour to go with the turkey. It is worth mentioning at the outset that traditional Thanksgiving fare goes with pretty much everything—sparkling wines, rosés, whites, and even reds. It's actually difficult to find a wine that is awful with turkey, mashed potatoes, and Parker House rolls.
Still stressed? How can you conquer your wine anxieties if you are hosting a Thanksgiving dinner? And if you are a guest, how can you help lower the stress even more?
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Confirm guest list and make name cards.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 17, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Even if you don't like percentages and figures, the financial crisis has caused everyone to be a little more aware of numbers. Lucky for us, the idea of number-crunching can be converted to chocolate-munching.
Tina Roth Eisenberg of the blog Swiss Miss, clued us in to Mary & Matt's chocolate pie chart. At five and a half ounces, the chocolate breakdown works to, 70 percent milk, 20 percent dark, and 10 percent white. How do you like those numbers? I just wish there were something like this when I was studying the math section for the GREs, I am sure my score would have been higher.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 17, 2008 at 9:30 AM
I think Olga of Sassy Radish is a genius. Why? Because she pinpointed the problem with Magnolia's red velvet cupcakes: the vanilla icing. With her Red Velvet Cupcakes, Olga opted for the Magnolia cake recipe but created a traditional crown of cream cheese to establish red velvets as the king of all cupcakes. She used an entire bottle of red food coloring—how's that for royal blood?
Olga is adamant that homemade cake is as easy as purchased mixes. In her words, "The whole thing was a cinch—and a delicious cinch at that."
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Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2008 at 7:30 AM
The English breakfast is a massive undertaking. While its exact composition varies across the British Isles, ordering a full fry-up will get usually you bacon, eggs, sausages, potatoes, baked beans, mushrooms, tomato, and toast, at a minimum. And on this piled-high plate sits the brekker’s most notorious member—thick slices of black pudding. Translation? Blood sausage. Good morning, indeed.
I’d lived in London for several months before I first tasted black pudding. The idea of blood sausage had never appealed to me, and since I cooked for myself in my little flat kitchen, I hadn’t yet confronted the full-on breakfast. Until I visited an Irish friend, that is. He opened his refrigerator one morning to find it nearly empty. “All I have are eggs and things. Is that all right?”
To my American mind, eggs followed by “and things” means: bacon. Maybe toast. But ten minutes later, I was handed a plate of eggs, sausage, and thick, dark rounds of black pudding. Ah, yes. Blood for breakfast. I’d known about black pudding, sure—known that traditional restaurants or old Scottish grandmums might try to sneak it on my plate. But a 20-something city-living bachelor kept it on hand? Maybe this stuff was more than just a novelty.
So as a polite guest, I gingerly bit into a piece. And to my great surprise, it was delicious. Meaty, sweetly spicy, studded with barley and oats. It wasn’t nearly as strong or gamey as I thought—it didn’t taste tangy or, well, bloody at all. Hearty and warm, it settled nicely in my stomach, like a good breakfast should.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 16, 2008 at 9:00 PM
If you come across a riled-up couple of animal crackers, hold onto them. They went for $7.25 on eBay. As a kid, and now, I'd probably just eat the humping cookies, unaware of the jackpot involved. [via Geekologie]
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This past week the Boston Globe ran the obligatory "when times get tough, the tougher, cheaper cuts of meat become more popular" story. In fact, I prefer cheaper, slightly tougher cuts even when times are not tough. Which would you rather chow down on—skirt steak or filet mignon? No contest, right?
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 16, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Feel the soothing sensation of edamame beans popping out of their pods, over and over and over again, with this Japanese Mugen Puni Puni Edamame Beans Popping Key Chain from Bandai. These aren't your normal edamame beans; there are 12 different faces, ranging from "Old Man" to Panda." Unfortunately, it's currently sold out, but when Strapya World gets its next shipment, I'm going to buy five of them for hours of non-stop entertainment. Watch the edamame beans in action, after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 16, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Ben Franklin once wrote his daughter to share his love for a certain feathered bird:
For my own part I wish the Bald Eagle had not been chosen the Representative of our Country. He is a Bird of bad moral Character. He does not get his Living honestly...For the Truth the Turkey is in Comparison a much more respectable Bird, and withal a true original Native of America.
As Tim Carman of the Washington City Paper notes, Franklin was also concerned with tenderizing this wattle-bearing poultry.
His favorite method? Electrocution.
“Birds killed in this manner eat uncommonly tender,” he wrote.
Maybe not the first thing you pictured in Thanksgiving cooking techniques.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 16, 2008 at 5:00 PM
Photograph of Yushin from eerkmans on Flickr
Yushin, the restaurant owned by the organizations behind Japan's whaling program and whaling fleets, is planning to close. A whaling industry spokesman says the closing is due to high operation costs and the fulfillment of promoting whale meat consumption; environmentalists attribute it to a weakening whaling industry. [via Coldmud]
Related: Thar It Blows—Japanese Whaleburgers
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 16, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Men's Fitness picked five American bars for the beer geek. In Washington D.C., they send you to Brickskeller, famous for having a binder with 1,000 different bottles divided by region. What they fail to mention: most often Brickskeller is out of at least half. Another option, at least if you like Belgian brews, is Brasserie Beck, which also has tasty beer-friendly foods (pork, cabbage confit, mussles).
In Brooklyn, they recommend Spuyten Duyvil. Under the same ownership, Spuyten Duyvil Grocery is a tiny shop crammed with imported beers that come with tales of the beer's origins, compliments of the shopkeepers.
The piece also lists favorite microbreweries, including Allagash in Maine, Firestone Walker in California, and Rogue in Oregon.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 16, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 16, 2008 at 1:00 PM
[via Wunami]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 16, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Urlesque shares these pictures of the cooking instructions at Japanese chain restaurant Kuro-Hitsuji, which specializes in Mongolian barbecue—or as the restaurant says, "Ghengis Khan cuisine." The instructions features illustrations accompanied by "ghetto-fabulous" English translations for no apparent reason. Next time I get Mongolian barbecue, I'll be sure to cook my meal using the "fizzle to the sizzle" method.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Prepare foods that can be frozen, like pie dough and meat stock.
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 16, 2008 at 10:00 AM
As Pinkberry, Red Mango and a thousand imitators battle it out for yogurt supremacy, the Vietnamese have been quietly making their own addictively sharp (but non-frozen) yogurt snack, da ua, or sua chua, for decades.
Diane from White on Rice Couple shows us how it's done. The secret ingredient? Sweetened condensed milk. The star player in dulce de leche mellows the tang and gives the yogurt a silky, gently set consistency. Sprinkled with in-season pomegranate seeds, as Diane serves hers, it makes an unusual alternative to the pomegranate yogurts now making the soft-serve rounds.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 15, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Photograph from carlwarner.com
Carl Warner's food photography has been circulating on the web for the past year, but we've never blogged about it on Serious Eats. If you haven't seen them before, his over-the-top food landscapes are amazing; by utilizing broccoli as trees, heads of garlic as huts, Brussels sprout leaves as waves, and loaves of bread as hills, Warner manages to create these foodscapes that at first glance look like foliage and land, not fruits and vegetables.
Pieces such as Garlicshire and Broccoli Forest seem to combine classic food still lifes by Paul Cezanne with computer-generated images from Lord of the Rings.
Related: Photo of the Day: Meatscapes
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Gobble Gobble: It's that time again and this week we shared Lidia Bastianich's Roast Turkey recipe to help you make your bird cooking decisions.
The Best of Both Worlds: Pepperoni Ramen Pizza just might be the best invention ever and helped Karol Lu win the Second Annual Ramen-off at Brooklyn Kitchen.
Breakfast Anytime: Blake Royer has no qualms with making paprika-spiked home fries with poached eggs for every meal of the day.
The Good Kind of Flaky: Turning out basic biscuits isn't always easy, but Amanda Clark shares her simple way of baking them.
Bugs Bunny Would Be Proud: Soup season is upon us and Nick Kindelsperger is stirring up a steaming bowl of carrot and ginger soup.
Squish Squash Yum: Winter vegetables grace the food isles and with the aid of Kristen Swensson's spaghetti squash with ricotta, sage, and pine nuts, your table can be adorned in the same manner.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 15, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Uh, best idea ever? Photograph from That's What You Think
Winnie of That's What You Think discovers the deliciousness of grilled doughnuts when she picks up a jelly doughnut and an eclair from Peter Pan Bakery in Brooklyn on the way to a backyard barbecue. How did they turn out?
The exterior becomes a crispy hot shell that gives way to juicy, molten insides and takes on the slightest hint of smoke and maybe just the faintest little happy leavings of whatever sausages (from the Polish butchers up the street) and steaks (from the Greenmarket) had just vacated the grill real estate.
Mm, meat-tinged doughnuts. I'm there.
Related
A Guide to the Best Doughnuts in New York
Cooking with Kids: Bacon Doughnuts
The Serious Eats National Doughnut Honor Roll
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 15, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
Continue reading »
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Make any decorations you may want to put up, like leaf arrangements or a cornucopia.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 15, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Photograph by Robyn Lee
As Americans cut costs, they're starting to put more Spam back on the table.
But these days, consumers are rediscovering relatively cheap foods, Spam among them. A 12-ounce can of Spam, marketed as “Crazy Tasty,” costs about $2.40. “People are realizing it’s not that bad a product,” said Dan Johnson, 55, who operates a 70-foot-high Spam oven.
I love the mental image of a 70-foot-high Spam oven.
Related: How to Make Spam Musubi
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 15, 2008 at 11:00 AM
According to our handy site-metering utility, the top 10 most delicious items on Serious Eats this week were ...
1. Does Your Grocery Store Have You Crying Tears of Joy?
Do you have a local grocery store that you've sworn undying loyalty to?
2. In Defense of Breakfast: A Morning Manifesto
"Artists might say that the eyes are the windows to the soul. I’m going to go out on a limb and say that, for a food writer, breakfast just might be the same. So what's your stance on breakfast? Can't stomach it, or can't live without it?"
3. Dinner Tonight: Scalloped Potatoes
"Though I'm not a scalloped potatoes veteran, I have nothing bad to say about these. Too often scalloped potatoes come out greasy and bland. Here, the cheese is minimal, and the broth, herbs, and onions made this an immensely flavorful meal. Though I'm sure it wasn't the healthiest thing I've eaten in a while, it was so fun to revisit the childhood classic—and discover it could still surprise me."
4. Served: A Colorful Cast of Customers
"There are some “types” of people who I have come to expect in the restaurant. I’m not eager to typecast, but it’s amazing how people so often behave, at least during our brief interactions, in some very predictable ways. Here, an incomplete cast of characters."
5. 'Top Chef' Season 5, Episode 1 Recap
"All right, Top Chef junkies. Listen up. Your jonesin' days are over for the time being. Tom, Padma, Gail, and the rest of the resident and guest experts have been joined by 17 aspiring top toques in New York City. Based on tonight's first episode, it's going to be a doozy of a season. My favorite introductory quote came from Daniel, a twenty-something chef from Babylon, New York: 'I was so unnoticed for the longest time.'"
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 14, 2008 at 8:30 PM
Over on Tina Brown's Daily Beast website, comedian Jessi Klein goes off on foodies:
Let me be clear: I really love eating and I love food. I think anyone who knows how to cook anything is a genius, and I always appreciate the time and love that goes into a home-made meal. And I love going to restaurants. I love menus and forks and appetizers and the anticipation of desserts. But I hate that foodies feel like every meal has to have the same wow-factor as their birthday blowjob. I once tried to make dining plans with a foodie friend and it took over ninety minutes to agree on a place that met all of her qualifications for ambiance, cuisine, and service. You would have thought we were negotiating Israeli borders.
There's already some discussion going on about this in a Talk thread started by z911empire, which is where we first got wind of this blog post, so I'm going to close comments here and direct you there.
And, oh, did you know there's even a Wikipedia entry for the term foodie?
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 14, 2008 at 6:15 PM
With all the channels on broadcast TV and cable—and the inevitable episode repeats—it's hard to sort out what's new or worthwhile. Let us sort it out for you so you don't miss anything worth watching. Times may vary with region; check your local listings for exact hour and channels.
Recommended Shows: Plenty of Thanksgiving-themed shows preview this weekend on the Food Network; tune in to watch The Cooking Loft and Secrets of a Restaurant Chef to see new takes on traditional dishes–and you know you can't go wrong with Giada or Ina's holiday suggestions. Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Saturday (November 15)
Tyler's Ultimate (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Ultimate Turkey Dinner." Oven-roasted turkey breast with leeks and dried fruit; roasted turkey gravy; grainy mustard mashed potatoes. 9 a.m. ET, Food Network
The Cooking Loft (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Thanksgiving Alexandra." Alex shares her Thanksgiving recipes. 9:30 a.m. ET, Food Network
Secrets of a Restaurant Chef (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "The Secret to Pork Loin." Pork tenderloin; homemade applesauce; warm cabbage slaw. 10:30 a.m. ET, Food Network
Cooking for Real (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Talkin' Turkey." Sunny's sweet-savory glaze; casserole; mini pies. 12 p.m. ET, Food Network
Giada at Home (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "A Family Thanksgiving." Giada serves a Thanksgiving meal with a twist. 1 p.m. ET, Food Network
Barefoot Contessa (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Thanksgiving Countdown." Herb roasted turkey breast; sausage and herb stuffing; homemade gravy; celery root and apple puree. 1:30 p.m. ET, Food Network
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 14, 2008 at 5:15 PM
Photograph from Elijah on Flickr
"The Delicious Parts of a Whale Explained" may not be the real name of this diagram from Japan, but I like it. Methinks the whale looks a little too happy considering the context though.
Related
The Anatomy of a Swine: Good, Good, and Real Good
Behold the Bacon Pig
Photo of the Day: Pig Tattoo
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"The UN has no more food to distribute in the Gaza Strip," reports the BBC. Israel has been denying the transfer of all goods into Gaza for about a week.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 14, 2008 at 3:30 PM
Do you know where you're getting your turkey this year? Not yet? Then we've got a contest for you. The good folks at D'Artagnan are providing us with a turkey a day to give away to one lucky Serious Eats reader from today until Sunday, November 23.*
D'Artagnan is a purveyor of many things delicious—from pâtés to sausages, foie gras to wild mushrooms, game meat to truffles. But what we're especially interested in right now is their turkey.
D'Artagnan's certified organic birds are fed organic grains and pure spring water—no protein supplements, added poultry or fish byproducts, pesticides, or herbicides. Additionally no antibiotics, no growth hormones. The result is a poultry with great flavor, tenderness, and a 25 percent lower fat content than standard commercially raised turkey.
We will be giving away 12- to 14-pound organic free-range birds for the duration of the contest. Contest is open only to participants in the continental U.S. Details after the jump.
Continue reading »
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Every Thanksgiving we check in with food magazine editors around the country to see how they have gone about putting together their Thanksgiving issues. Today we talk to Gourmet editor in chief Ruth Reichl.
How did you approach Thanksgiving at Gourmet this time around? I feel like every year we think about what people want to EAT for Thanksgiving. So we turned it around. Instead of thinking about the people eating around the table, we thought about the people doing the cooking. Me personally I cook for four or five days for Thanksgiving, so I want a meal that's going to keep me occupied and interested for a long time. So for the magazine I said to my staff, "Let's come up with a challenging menu.
You even included a vegetarian Thanksgiving menu. Why not? There are lots of serious vegetarian home cooks out there. Vegetarians love Thanksgiving, too.
You also have a great Thanksgiving menu in the magazine for those of us who are time-challenged. Let's not forget about the home cook that really doesn't have time. So I told the test kitchen to come up with a real no tricks, no silly shortcuts three-hour path from kitchen to table. We even had a stopwatch, so we timed the whole thing from start to finish. In the end we figured out that it will take people closer to four hours, so that's what people will find in the magazine.
How did it turn out? It's a great menu. Everything is in it is completely delicious. It's a real meal, all really serious food.
You even have a Latino Thanksgiving menu this year? Last year we did all these different ethnic Thanksgiving menu variations, but regrettably we didn't include a Latino menu. So we decided to do it up right this year. Boy do I love this one. The chipotle meatballs are so delicious, as is the chorizo cornbread stuffing.
What are your personal favorite recipes from this year's Thanksgiving issue?
Haricot Verts with Bacon and Chestnuts
Chipotle Meatballs
Mango Pomegranate Guacamole
Wild Mushroom Bundles
Turkey Jook, really easy and it's a really big improvement on turkey tetrazini.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 14, 2008 at 2:00 PM
We're bananas for what goes on in Talk. There's so much useful, funny, and interesting stuff going on that we almost can't keep up. Here's some of the discussion that's piqued our interest this week.
Chewing the Fat: Alton Brown on Fried Chicken
"Colonel Sanders pole dancing!!! That is why I *heart* Alton. I'd like to see HIM pole dancing....er....wait, maybe not."—juliebugsmama
Popcorn Eating Technique from an Asian Mom
"I think Bruce Lee Roy from The Last Dragon patented this technique =P"—johnnytakes5
'Top Chef' Season 5, Episode 1
"I knew Patrick was a goner as soon as he walked into the grocery store and said (paraphrasing): 'We have a whole course about Asian cooking at my school.'"—sarag22
Who Should Be Obama's White House Chef?
"Since the New York newspapers have taken to calling him 'bam,' i think the natural choice for his chef in the white house would be Emeril Lagasse."—cybercita
In Videos: Sashimi Song by Keyboard Cathy
"Gotta love Asian fusion served up with a side order of crazy."—liwinegirl
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 14, 2008 at 12:15 PM
Switzerland has been keeping a little secret from us: they grow spaghetti. On trees. During the spring of 1957, the crop was especially fertile. The pasta strands hung there like any apple or pear would, and farmers reaped the noodly harvest. Now, if only they could get their act together on a meatball bush.
We linked to this back in April of 2007, but the BBC investigative report on spaghetti farming was a little difficult to navigate. Here it is, easy peasy, after the jump.
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Gordon Ramsay's plan for world domination is making progress. His fourth branch of Maze (with outlets already in London, New York, and Prague) is slated to open in Melbourne in February 2010. [via Coldmud]
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 14, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Back to the 1950s: In Eagle Rock, California, Damon Gambuto stumbled on The Oinkster, a retro fitted slow, fast food joint with hearty burgers and peanut butter and jelly cupcakes.
Detroit Soda Sighting in Chicago: Michael Nagrant relives his Motor City childhood at Steve's Deli in Chicago, where they carry the trademark Detroit soda, Vernor's Ginger Ale.
A Slice to Bring Home to Mama: New Yorkers know pizza and the line around Sal's Pizzeria is a good sign you won't be disappointed.
Tried and True: Like Hollywood, Cassell's is a classic, and Nick Solares immortalizes their burgers—especially the buns.
Inaugurate This Pizza: When the Obamas move permanently to Washington D.C., they will surely miss the Hyde Park haunt Italian Fiesta Pizzeria, responsible for our new President-Elect's favorite pie.
Go West, Young Eater: Ed Levine hit up The West Branch in the Upper East Side, where comfort food takes on new meaning.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Shop for any groceries you need for your weekend of precooking.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 14, 2008 at 10:00 AM
The U.S. isn't letting anything in from China that contains milk, due to concerns of melamine contamination. So far, the industrial chemical has left tens of thousands of Chinese infants sick, and at least four dead, reports the Wall Street Journal.
The ban will include such products as infant's milk, regular milk, chocolate, cheese, ice cream, and pet food.
According to the FDA, shady stuff was happening. Some Chinese producers were watering down milk to make it go farther while adding melamine to increase the nitrogen and protein content to disguise the tampering.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 14, 2008 at 8:45 AM
I admit it. My life is not exactly made to order for conventional dieting programs. In any given week I end up going to a couple potential diet-busting events that could make my Friday morning Serious Eats weigh-in problematic. So I've adopted some strategies and tactics that may sound nutty but have been surprisingly effective.
For example, I weigh myself every day, which Weight Watchers frowns on as regular practice. I know my weight can fluctuate two and even three pounds depending on how much water I am retaining, even without going to one of these food events. But by getting on the scale every day, I get some sense of how I have fared each day and can adjust accordingly. If daily weigh-ins worked for Muhammad Ali when he was in training for a fight they can work for me as well. I'd love to be able to float like a butterfly and sting like a bee. Wouldn't you?
There were two events this week that could have been disastrous. And to make matters worse, the most difficult event to navigate took place yesterday, Thursday, a mere 18 hours before my public weigh-in.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 14, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Photograph from geekgirlunveiled on Flickr
One summer I worked in the tea industry, and remember learning that oolong was held in high esteem. When referencing the semi-oxidized tea (somewhere between green and black), people usually looked at me funny. "Oo-who?" Jane Black at the Washington Post investigates the stigma against oolong.
Part of oolong's lack of wide acceptance can be traced to a fear factor. Unlike green and black teas, which require one steeping, oolongs benefit from multiple infusions. That is because the leaves are picked when they are bigger and thicker, and multiple rounds of hot water help the flavors blossom and intensify. As a result, the Chinese and the Taiwanese like to drink oolongs gong-fu style. The words, which are sometimes written as "kung fu" (like the martial art), mean a skill acquired through practice.
You heard of oolong? Ever drink it?
Related
MC Elemental Raps About Tea
The 'Mate Latte' Rhyme, Fated or a Coffee Shop Travesty?
Bon Jovi Tea Set
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 13, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Photograph from Travis Hornung on Flickr
Our Snapshots from Asia correspondent Wan Yan Ling has already done a great job hipping us to odd produce, like red-fleshed dragon fruit, dried dragon eyes, pulasans, and rambutans.
The Web Ecoist reminds us that some things look more science fiction than edible. For example, the Kiwano melon has monstrous green goo in its center, Romanescu broccoli looks like it hosts a tiny civilization on its bright green peaks, and the dragon fruit appears to have just come out of a video game. (In case you don't know how to eat these foods, check out Weird Food.)
So what's the most exotic fruit or veggie you've eaten?
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 13, 2008 at 6:15 PM
Photograph from passiveaggressivenotes on Flickr
I'm surprised my turtle hasn't left me a note like this yet. My roommate Jessica is by far the better parent of Cecil, our red-eared slider turtle (named after the old man-voiced turtle in Looney Toons). This is a non-passive-aggressive thank you to Jessica for making sure Cecil is not dead. Jessica and Tiffany should be friends.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 13, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Each week we round up our favorite posts and recipes from our friends at The Kitchn.
This week, The Kitchn shares entries from their Best Pie Bakeoff, including this "Pie of the Vine" made of grapes, which is vying for most "original."
Also on the Kitchn, how to make bubble and squeak, nutritional yeast explained, tips on saving failed buttercream frosting, and crystallized ginger.
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That's a lot of tax payers' money spent on training caviar inspectors.
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Posted by Michael Nagrant, November 13, 2008 at 5:00 PM
Vernor’s Ginger Ale, the green labeled brew which once had a crazy bearded Viking gnome as its mascot, is pure elixir of liquid nostalgia. While I grew up in Detroit, it was the ubiquitous beverage that filled the basement fridge at my Polish grandparent’s house. I still remember peering over a glass of the stuff for the first time and getting knocked over by stinging carbonated ginger droplets that shot up my nose. This still applies. Try huffing a freshly poured glass of it today and it’ll kill your nostril hairs like Chinese mustard.
In addition to drinking Vernor's Ginger Ale all the time, every late November we’d head out to the annual Detroit Thanksgiving Day parade and eke out a spot on the curb across from the old Vernor’s factory on Woodward Avenue. Sweaty from my Michelin Man-puffy snowsuit and David Bowie Ziggy Stardust-period worthy moon boots, I’d stare at the Vernor’s logo and long for a draught.
The Vernor’s folks left Detroit years ago (much like me) and secured national distribution. And so, living in Chicago, it’s easy enough to find the stuff in the grocery store these days. Finding it in a restaurant, on the other hand is impossible—that is until Steve’s Deli opened a few weeks ago.
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Posted by Lucy Baker, November 13, 2008 at 3:30 PM
Spice cookies are about as diverse as they come: There are gingersnaps, gingerbread men, hermits, and Lebkuchen, to name just a few. Personally, my favorites have always been the kind that are big, soft, and sprinkled with sugar. And while simple molasses-laced cookies are not difficult to make from scratch, I couldn't resist the potential for instant—and delicious—gratification when I spotted the packages of Betty Crocker Limited Edition Gingerbread Cookie Mix ($2.79) at my local supermarket. Sweet, spicy cinnamon flavor in only 20 minutes? Could it be true?
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 13, 2008 at 2:45 PM
Stabuckoholics can now buy a Gold Card for $25. They advertise a bunch of vague perks ("exclusive offers and discounts"), but as Cruftbox points out, the main one is 10% off most purchases. That means if you spend $250 a year on Starbucks, you'll break even.
Let's consider the two types of Stabuckoholics. Those who buy the prole drip coffee, and those who fork over for fancy stuff with whipped cream.
Mathematically, if you factor in the card's two free drink opportunities (upon purchase and your birthday), here's how the two types will break even:
Drip Coffee Types: 136 small cups of drip coffee (just under three a week or 11 cups a month)
Fancy Folks: 42 four-dollar drinks (just under one a week or four a month)
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 13, 2008 at 1:15 PM
What is the first thing you do when you get off the plane at Heathrow? If you are anything like me and usually opt for the red-eye, chances are you go straight to your hotel. If you are lucky enough to call that hotel Claridge's, leave your bags at the door, and stop in for a Rich Organic Dark Chocolate before dragging yourself to your room.
Claridge's serves, hands down, the most delicious, and most lovely, hot chocolate that I've ever experienced. And I say experienced because that is what it is, an experience—particularly English in its refinement, and particularly European in its quality. It arrives in Wonderland tea party-style, with whimsical mint-striped cups and pitchers, one filled with hot milk, the other with pure, perfect melted chocolate. Mix to your taste, and stir with the freshly toasted white and pale pink marshmallows alongside for the purpose.
Take a deep breath and a long sip. You've arrived.
Claridge's
49 Brook Street, London, W1 United Kingdom (map)
+44 20 74992210
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 13, 2008 at 12:00 PM
In addition to buttery croissants, macarons, and duck confit, France now brings us some bad-ass can throwing skills. Can you recycle your soda and juice containers with such panache and accuracy? Watch the video after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 13, 2008 at 11:30 AM
As Ed pointed out in his report on Top Chef's premiere last night, a bond formed among three gay cheftestants: Patrick, Jaime, and Richard.
"Team Rainbow" was born over a glass of wine and testaments to being "sooooo gay." Jaime was in the second she said, "I have a T-shirt that has a rainbow on it. I'll totally wear it." To celebrate, the Bravo network made its own "Team Rainbow" T-shirt for all viewers supporting the multicolored pride. Watch a clip of the bond forming after the jump.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Make a plan for how you will execute the meal. Decide what can you make before Thanksgiving, like cranberry sauce or boiling potatoes for mashed potatoes, and figure out how long it will take to cook things on the holiday.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 13, 2008 at 10:45 AM
This time of year, it seems the leaves are falling into my path at every corner. There is one leaf, however, that—as I wade through puddles of red and crispy orange—I have yet to encounter.
Brenda Pederson of Culinary Fool blogs that elusive fall leaf, Maple Cream Cookies. A Canadian delicacy, the leaf-shaped cookies are filled with maple cream, made from 100% pure maple syrup. This cookie is a definite Canadian seasonal supermarket must. Has anyone tried them or found them in the States?
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Learn about the origins of your favorite ring of boiled and baked wheat in this short history of the bagel by Joan Nathan of Slate. For a longer history of the bagel, check out Maria Balinska's recently published book, The Bagel: A Cultural History.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 13, 2008 at 8:30 AM
About six months ago we decided that it would be fun to produce more original video segments for Serious Eats. When I made a list of interesting people I wanted to interview on camera for a series called Chewing the Fat, Alton Brown was at the top of the list. Why? Because whenever I have watched him on the Food Network or chatted with him (ever so briefly) when I was an Iron Chef judge, I have always found Alton to be interesting, provocative, smart, and funny. We were thrilled when Alton agreed to do it. Who did we get to shoot, direct, and edit the Alton videos? None other than Hamburger America director and author George Motz.
On this week's Chewing the Fat webisode, our man Alton goes deep into the world of fried chicken. Southern fried chicken, to be exact. Alton and his crew show up at what is one of the world's great fried chicken joints. The crew eats all the available chicken, leaving Alton holding the bag—or should I say, his hog. Does he end up going fried chicken-less? Watch and find out.
The Feasting on Asphalt DVDs are available at Foodnetwork.com and the book is available at Amazon.
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Posted by Carey Jones, November 13, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Blueberry French Toast from Shopsin's. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr.
As your new Serious Eats breakfast correspondent, ready to take you on a journey of the pre-noon delicious, I feel the need to first defend my favorite meal of the day. As meals go, breakfast is a polarizing one. In this country, at least, no one denies the need for lunch or dinner. But for many otherwise serious eaters, breakfast is overlooked or under-enjoyed—a granola bar gobbled in the pantry, a drive-through cup of coffee, or nothing at all.
There’s a litany of typical breakfast excuses: "I’m not hungry in the morning." “I don’t have time for a full meal." "My stomach complains if I eat before noon." Some people just aren’t breakfast people. (Which is funny, when you think about it. Few claim not to be “dinner people.”) But in the opposite camp are the devoted breakfastophiles—those who couldn’t imagine starting the day without a hearty fill-up.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 13, 2008 at 12:00 AM
All right, Top Chef junkies. Listen up. Your jonesin' days are over for the time being. Tom, Padma, Gail, and the rest of the resident and guest experts have been joined by 17 aspiring top toques in New York City. Based on tonight's first episode, it's going to be a doozy of a season. My favorite introductory quote came from Daniel, a twenty-something chef from Babylon, New York: "I was so unnoticed for the longest time."
You're 25, dude, how long could you have gone unnoticed?
What's interesting to me is how quickly casual viewers like me immediately find people to root for in the very first show. Jaime the tattooed lesbian chef from where else—San Francisco—I'm with you. It looks like you have cooking chops and soul. Eugene the tattooed Hawaiian who started as a dishwasher without any kind of culinary school training? You're the little chef who could. My God, what's going on here? I may have a bias in favor of chefs with tattoos. On the flip side, I already have a visceral dislike of the two patronizing European chefs, Stefan the Finn, and Fabio, the Italian dude from Florence.
The show is populated with archetypes galore: gay and tatooed lesbian chefs ("we are so gay"), snobbish Europeans ("you think a vinaigrette is an emulsion?"); and the seasoned journeyman cooks, Carla, the African American woman from Chicago in her forties (there are just too many names to remember in the first few episodes) and Ariane, the 41-year-old woman with two noninfant children who owns a restaurant with her husband in Montclair, New Jersey.
WARNING: SPOILERS AHEAD.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 12, 2008 at 8:00 PM
Clockwise from top left: Jerome "Chef" McElroy from South Park, Mrs. Lovett the baker from Sweeney Todd, Ned the pie-maker from Pushing Daisies, TV chef Jackie Chan from Mr. Nice Guy.
Unlike the pies of Mrs. Lovett (Helena Bonham Carter) in Sweeney Todd—made of priests, poets, and other victims of the upstairs barber shop—those of Ned (Lee Pace), the pie maker on Pushing Daisies, are not alive. (You know, berries and butter and stuff.) Either way, pie has a special significance in television and cinema, as does food in general.
Zap2it put together this slideshow of 43 fictional characters who spend their time in the kitchen. Who are your favorites?
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 12, 2008 at 6:00 PM
This photo caught my eye while I was paging through my Flickr contacts. It's a wall mural comprising cuts of meat at the restaurant Fette Sau in Brooklyn. Taken by Mintyfresh of the knitting blog Pepperknit.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 12, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Red Mango, the frozen yogurt chain that's not Pinkberry, just launched a pomegranate yogurt this week, adding a third flavor to the menu's "original" and "green tea." Oddly enough, Pinkberry is also introducing a pomegranate flavor next week, except it doesn't advertise the POM Wonderful juice as an ingredient, as with Red Mango's version.
For me, the appeal of pomegranate is in the seeds. The crunch, the tang, the way they mysteriously dissolve in your mouth. But pomegranate-flavored yogurt? Does pomegranate even have a defined flavor? (Other than generic reddish, tartish fruit?)
It's not Red Mango's fault that the yogurt isn't overwhelmingly pomegranate; I'm not sure pomegranate even knows what it should taste like. Extracting the "essence" of the fruit, but leaving the seeds behind, seems fruitless. (Ha.) For a more pomegranatey flavor at Red Mango, my approach would be the original yogurt with a side of seeds.
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 12, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Want a way to serve pie to your cat without getting a stomach ache? Etsy seller CatzillaCrafts offers an organic catnip pumpkin pie toy for $6.99 a slice, guaranteed to keep the kitty away from the kitchen when you're baking for the holidays. The hand-sewn pie features a realistic "flaky pie crust" and a "dollop of whipped cream."
CatzkillaCrafts also offers carrot cake, cherry pie, doughnuts, eclairs, banana pancakes, and red velvet cake toys. Though I don't think your cat will really care what shape the catnip comes in, at least you can convince yourself he or she is as food-obsessed as you are.
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"The Naked Chef" has a new video game called What’s Cooking? and it offers something Cooking Mama lacks—100 real recipes. Each one is by Oliver, and comes with an image of the completed dish, an ingredient list, step-by-step instructions, and Oliver's additional comments. Related: 'Cooking Mama: World Kitchen' Preview
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 12, 2008 at 12:30 PM
Singer/songwriter Cathy Wiegand, also known as Keyboard Kathy, likes sashimi so much that she wrote this song dedicated to the "sushi without the rice." I'm not sure whether her sashimi passion is endearing or discomforting—maybe somewhere in between. Close your eyes and you might think you're listening to a musical about sashimi and Chinese food. Watch the video after the jump.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 12, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Photograph from mollycakes on Flickr
Ever struggle with a recipe? We all have. Pastry chef Shuna Fish Lydon puts things in perspective with 11 1/2 rules on recipes:
Rule #1: Recipes are guides.
Rule #2: A recipe is not out to get you.Rule #11: A recipe in one state, in one city, on one continent, at one specific altitude, does not, I repeat: does not necessarily work on another that is totally different.
Rule #11 1/2: Recipes change based on many a variable: class, climate, tradition, religion, animal husbandry practices, air quality, altitude, financial choices, wars, famines, economic downturns, thriftiness, shelf-life...
A good reminder next time you're wrestling with a dough that won't rise or cookies that disappoint.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Start compiling a list of all the perishable ingredients you will need, save for the meat, which you should have all ready ordered.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 12, 2008 at 10:30 AM
What's the point of a recipe postcard? No, these are not from a kitchen accessories shop selling "Kiss the Cook" aprons and oinking pig fridge magnets, but from a regular English stationery store, next to the usual "Greetings from England" postcards with laughing Oxford gargoyles and Union Jack underpants.
The question is, who should receive these? They say a way to a man's heart is through his stomach, and since the heart of my man lives across the pond, maybe I should woo him with recipes for food I would be making him. Or maybe, next time I am invited to a dinner party, and the hostess's food leaves much to be desired, my thank you note can be something along these lines—nice squash risotto, here's how it should have been done.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 12, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Here's a possible popcorn eating technique—good for those times when your popcorn is extra buttery—from My Mom Is a Fob (FAQ in case that title makes no sense to you). Definitely more refined than my technique, which is to shovel bulging handfuls of popcorn into my mouth.
Related:
Blogwatch: Herbed Popcorn
Cook the Book: Spicy Buttered Popcorn
Red Carpet-Worthy Popcorn
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 11, 2008 at 9:45 PM
Not the Wegmans in question, but probably just as awesome nonetheless.
In some ways, I can totally relate to this woman. Because, even though I've only been exposed to Wegmans a couple dozen times—and all very briefly—I love the place.
One of my sons said, “Mom, are you really crying about this?” My daughter buried her head. I knew that (1) I was a complete loser, (2) I will forever love everything that reminds me of my hometown, and (3) I will always have a thing for Wegmans. My fellow flat-A-accented upstate friends understood: Something we all grew up with had moved in next door and now was everyone’s.
Wegmans is a chain of grocery stores that started in Rochester, New York, and that now has locations in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia. It's completely amazing—great prepared food, good produce, a gigantic selection of groceries, health and beauty supplies, organic stuff, and various and sundry.
We didn't have anything close to it in my hometown. But how 'bout you? Do you have a local grocery store that you've sworn undying loyalty to?
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"... If the white meat is handled like a chicken breast and just barely cooked through, it remains moist and tender. And if the dark meat is cooked for a long time, with moisture, it becomes so tender it gains the consistency of pulled pork. The way to achieve both of these states simultaneously is to braise, and the best starting place is not with a whole turkey but with turkey parts—specifically, thighs and breasts." [New York Times]
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Posted by Jen Maiser, November 11, 2008 at 8:00 PM
I attended two farmers' markets last week, and may go to another today. It probably had something to do with the elections.
With the exception of writing about the importance of eating locally and supporting small farmers, I don't tend to use my online writing to talk politics. There are many cogent opinions about politics around the Internet, and I don't like to bore you all. But I will say this: Many of us Californians were put through the ringer last week. It was an extremely bittersweet week as we watched the results of the presidential election at the same time as our anti-gay marriage amendment and a proposition to give more freedom to our chickens, pigs and cows both passed.
But at the end of the day, and despite all politics, many of us gather at the farmers' markets. They are becoming the town squares of today, and they are a great place to meet up with friends and socialize at the same time that you pick up fresh produce from local farmers. Going to farmers' markets is one of the most grounding activities that I do.
At the San Rafael Farmers' Market, I was really excited to see chanterelle mushrooms. Chanterelles are foraged and found on the forest floor in the Pacific Northwest and in California. The season begins in the north and heads southward. A few weeks ago, we could only get chanterelles from Washington State, but the chanterelles I bought last week were from Mendocino County, California.
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Candy Blog takes issue with the Belgian part of Trader Joe's new Belgian 100-calorie chocolate bars (0.63 ounce per bar): "Just because the country has a great history and a good reputation for producing good chocolate doesn’t mean that just because it’s Belgian that it’s better, or even good."
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 11, 2008 at 6:30 PM
Just when you thought no gecko could be any cuter than the Geico gecko, along comes this Hawaiian hottie. According to National Geographic, who voted it one of the best photos of 2008, the lithe lizard shimmied down the restaurant wall, stole a lick of a vacationer’s dessert, and ran off. He may not have good table manners, or be able to speak or save you fifteen percent or more on car insurance, but he has a very refined palate. How can you be mad at something so cute for running out on the check?
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 11, 2008 at 5:55 PM
When you're in a bind, the Swiss Army knife usually does just the trick. Nail file, screwdriver, and all-around snipper of things—what a little superhero. But what about when your tummy grumbles? Also an emergency, except the knife can't really help. Introducing the Swiss Chocolate Knife. A one-time use, but what a good time it would be. [via Gizmodo]
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Posted by Jamie Forrest, November 11, 2008 at 4:30 PM
Every Tuesday, Jamie Forrest drops by with Serious Cheese.
Yesterday's Wall Street Journal ran an interesting article about folks who have given up the corporate life for a life on the farm making cheese. It profiles Wisconsinite Brenda Jensen, whose Hidden Springs Creamery burst on the scene last year with a first place finish in the fresh sheep's milk cheese category at the American Cheese Society annual competition. Crafting small batches of hand-made sheep's milk cheeses, Jensen is beating a new path in a state with an entrenched dairy industry that is decidedly non-artisanal and heavily cow-focused.
I (and probably most cheese lovers) have at least fantasized about leaving their urban existence behind to start a small cheesemaking operation. There's something about the connection to the land and to history that makes cheesemaking particularly appealing to those disillusioned with the ennui of corporate living. The New York Times, in fact, ran a story not too long ago about urban hipsters leaving behind their "trucker hats" for the simplicity of rural life.
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In the past, it has been Regis Philbin and various little kids. Related: Alton Brown chews the fat with Serious Eats [Yahoo Finance]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 11, 2008 at 3:45 PM
Photograph from lauromaia on Flickr
The “Mother Road”—or what’s left of it—turns 82 today. Which reminds me, serious eater robincat asked in Talk about serious eating options along the historic highway. There are only a handful of replies so far. Come on, people! There's gotta be more great food along this route. Get your kicks on in Talk.
Comments are Closed.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 11, 2008 at 2:45 PM
As a part of our Celebrity Chefs Holiday series, some of America's best-known chefs and food television personalities share their favorite holiday dishes, provide recipes for them, and even tell us who will be at their holiday tables. Today we talk to Lidia Bastianich, famed restaurateur, public television personality, and cookbook author.
What's your favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal and why? My favorite part of Thanksgiving is that it is an all-American holiday. Being Italian, every family holiday we celebrate in the Italian tradition, recipes, and customs. On the other hand, on Thanksgiving I cook mostly American: pumpkin pie, sweet potatoes with brown sugar and molasses, warm apple pie with ice cream, and a big roast turkey with stuffing and cranberry-quince chutney. America offered my family and I refuge and the possibility of a new life when I was only 13. This is the holiday where I especially feel American, and the nature of this holiday makes me feel especially grateful to this country. On Thanksgiving as we gather around the table every year is an affirmation, Italian of origin, we feel truly blessed and grateful to be Americans.
What are you doing for Christmas this year? Who's going to be there? What is the menu going to be? Christmas Day will most likely be at my house and my brother with his family of five, Tanya and her family of four, Joseph and his family of five, Joe's in-laws and sister in-law's family of six will come over for dinner. (The menu, after the jump.)
Could you share a favorite Thanksgiving recipe with the Serious Eats community? Everybody loves the butternut squash tiramisù and the cranberry-quince chutney I make.
What's your favorite part of the Christmas meal and why? A moving moment for me is when the whole family is around the table. We say grace, and the aromas of the food fill the air, and I feel very gratified when I serve the capon tortellini soup and Olivia, Lorenzo, Miles, Ethan, and Julia, my five grandchildren devour it and ask for seconds. At that point I know they have been nourished with food and love, and they know it as well.
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To make 49 pounds of honey: "The yield filled many, many jars—half-pints, full-pints, and twelve-ounce.... The honey is a delicious and flavorful mix from flowers and fruit and vegetable blossoms from my garden. Come and have a look at this lovely, golden treasure."
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Despite the rough year, Starbucks still brought in $10.4 billion.
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Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 11, 2008 at 11:30 AM
The Grocery Ninja leaves no aisle unexplored, no jar unopened, no produce untasted. Creep along with her below, and read all her mission reports here.
The Russian housemate adores mulled cider. This wouldn’t be a problem except, come fall, my usually easy-going housemate morphs into a mulled cider dictator and gets monopolistic about fridge space – insisting that there is no room for any other kind of beverage. No oj, no soy milk, no nothing save for yet another jug of mulled cider. And while I used to love the stuff, palate fatigue is real… and I have no use for it on my cereal.
Hence, this year, us housemates are plotting an intervention: employing the logic of gradually weaning smokers off cigarettes with nicotine gum, we’re going to wean said housemate off mulled cider by tempting him with something different. We’re going to supply him with a fling. Thus far, our research is complete and our kitchen experiments are well on their way to success. We believe we have found a Jezebel to charm the pants off a dedicated mulled cider man.
As with most solutions to modern day pickles, we found our answer by reaching back in history. Originating from the Incas, chicha morada is a sweet, refreshing beverage made from purple corn or maiz morado. Everyone has a slightly different recipe for making the drink, but the basic formula involves simmering purple corncobs with pineapple rinds (how economical!), cinnamon, cloves, and lime juice. Some cooks like to add apples and quinces to the mix, but that, to my mind, is gilding the lily.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Assemble your tablecloths and napkins—purchase them, if necessary—and make sure they're cleaned and pressed.
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 11, 2008 at 8:30 AM
I blog by day and wait tables by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
A couple came from Chicago to visit New York City for the weekend. Their plans included two Broadway shows and a trip to my restaurant. They showed up to eat after the first of their theater engagements, glowing. They had a blast; they adored the show.
The place was bustling with our usual late night rush. The couple, two guys, squeezed into the end of the bar and ordered some wine. Then, one of them saw something. He turned to the other, “was that the woman in the play we just saw?” he asked, checking out a lady across our little restaurant.
Upon closer examination, it turned out a sizable part of the cast was hanging out at a table in the corner, eating cheeses and meats and drinking bubbly. They come by often after their show. In fact, they’re friends.
The guys were a little star struck. They needed encouragement from A., a fellow server, to say hi to the musical table. But say hi they did.
They ended hitting it off with the cast. There was a bit of room at their table, so the two men wedged in and shared a bottle of wine.
The couple told the actors about the show they were going to see the following night. Turns out, the cast of that show was hanging out a few tables away, also devouring a plate of cheese.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 11, 2008 at 7:30 AM
From the Presurfer comes 50 Strange Buildings of the World. There are three food-themed buildings in the mix. Above, from left, the Kettle House in Texas; the Longaberger Basket home office in Newark, Ohio; the Pickle Barrel House in Grand Marais, Michigan.
But my favorite food-themed building by far is The Donut Hole in La Puente, California:
Photograph from GarySe7en on Flickr
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 10, 2008 at 9:00 PM
Amazon.com
The New York Times recently devoted the Books section to children's books, with one piece focusing on those that discuss childhood obesity.
In Bebe Moore Campbell's I Get So Hungry, the protagonist Nicky gets teased at school. "Nicky Thicky." Her mom says she comes from a lineage of big-boned women. Her curious relationship with food climaxes when her teacher, Mrs. Patterson, must be hospitalized for her obesity. The moral is that kids are influenced by eating patterns, especially emotional eating, and need guidance from adults as to what's "healthy."
About a third of kids in the country are overweight, and according to the article, about half of New York City's public elementary school kids are overweight. Though children should continue chasing ice cream trucks, drinking juice boxes, and picking out snacks for soccer practice, learning about moderation early can't be a bad thing.
Related
California Launches Federal Program So Kids Will Eat More Fruit and Veggies
'Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs,' The Movie
Meatastic Children's Book Illustration
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If you're familiar M.I.A.'s work and stylings, it's a very unexpected list, to be sure. Still not as good as the Foo Fighters' rider (bacon as "God's currency").
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 10, 2008 at 8:00 PM
This one's making the rounds on Digg today: An evolution of Pabst advertising. From the days when dubious claims of healthfulness were used, through unfortunate racial stereotyping, through some surprisingly diverse ads, and finally—though not a true advertisement—the beer's infamous appearance in David Lynch's Blue Velvet.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 10, 2008 at 7:00 PM
My, how far we have come in pirate cake pan innovation. That of yesterday, and pictured above, those of today. This new-age one is available from JCPenney for $31.99. [Hat tip to Jaden at Steamy Kitchen]
Related
Geek Cakes
Massive Birthday Burger Cake
How to Make a Pizza-Themed Cake
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"BioBeer, as it's called, has three genes spliced into special brewer's yeast that produce resveratrol, the chemical in red wine that is thought to protect against diabetes, cancer, Alzheimer's and other age-related conditions." [Discovery News, via Boing Boing]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 10, 2008 at 5:45 PM
Emo Cows listen to Dashboard Confessional and wear tight pants, because they know you will eat them. They are so sad, they must sport the side-swept bangs. Such furry cattle with such raw emotions. [via Super Punch]
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Posted by Gordon Mark, November 10, 2008 at 5:30 PM
With all the channels on broadcast TV and cable—and the inevitable episode repeats—it's hard to sort out what's new or worthwhile. Let us sort it out for you so you don't miss anything worth watching. Times may vary with region; check your local listings for exact hour and channels.
Recommended Show: The fith season of Top Chef premieres Wednesday night! Check out our preview of the first episode Top Chef New York. 10 p.m. ET, Bravo
Monday (November 10)
Good Eats (warning, a video plays automatically on site: "Flat is Beautiful: Going Crackers." Homemade crackers. 8 p.m. ET, Food Network
Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (warning, a video plays automatically on site): "Doin' Their Own Thing." Guy discovers restaurants with unique recipes near Salt Lake City, Utah; in Chicago, Illinois; in Omaha, Nebraska; and in Montreal, Canada. 10 p.m. ET, Food Network
Late Show with David Letterman: Jamie Oliver is a guest. 11:30 p.m. ET, CBS
The Tonight Show with Jay Leno: Martha Stewart is a guest. 11:35 p.m. ET, NBC
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A veggie burger may not pass for a meat-based burger, but that doesn't mean it tastes bad. Monica Eng of the Chicago Tribune shares her picks for best veggie burgers around the city, in creative categories such as "Tastiest Pick for Mushroom Haters," "Best Sweet Potato Veggie Burger," and "Tastes Most Like a Chicago Hot Dog."
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 10, 2008 at 3:45 PM
Top Chef is back this Wednesday on Bravo at 10/9 central time with 17 new cheftestants in New York. "Bright knives, Big city" is their little mantra. The first quickfire will weed out the worst apple peeler. Each person has 15 apples to peel—but no peelers allowed, just knives. Tom Colicchio isn't messing around either. Too much apple flesh cut, and you're cut. Yes, somebody will leave the Big Apple for an apple. Watch clips from the first episode after the jump.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 10, 2008 at 1:45 PM
Words by Ed Levine | Just in time for the holidays and this week's Cook the Book giveaway comes Ina Garten's new book, Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics. I love Garten's books and recipes for three simple and satisfying reasons:
1. Her recipes always work
2. They're eminently doable
3. Boy, does the woman know delicious
I also feel that Garten manages to empower home cooks in a thoroughly appealing and noncondescending fashion. Whenever I make one of her recipes, I'm supremely confident it's going to turn out well.
For this week's recipes we chose dishes that are perfect for any kind of a holiday get-together, from a Thanksgiving feast to a casual cocktail party or potluck dinner with friends and family.
Doesn't roast shrimp cocktail sound delicious and easy for an appetizer or a pass-around? Or how about the orange pecan wild rice? Yummy! And this Thanksgiving I'm definitely going to make the roasted butternut squash salad with warm cider vinaigrette.
Win 'Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics'
Thanks to the good folks at Clarkson Potter we are giving away five (5) copies of Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics. In the comments below, just tell us your favorite basic dish that your friends and relatives insist you serve at gatherings.
Regular Serious Eats contest rules apply. Comments must be left here by noon ET on Monday, November 17. Winners will be chosen at random from among eligible commenters.
Comments are Closed.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 10, 2008 at 12:30 PM
There are lots of things you can do with a microwave, other than the social norm (warm up leftovers). You can throw in a jar of Fluff or a plastic doll's head, and wait to see if it blows up. Or, throw in a pile of marshmallows with Christmas lights on top, then see if that blows up. A few guys put on lab coats and channeled their inner mad scientists. It's a six minute video, but if you like blowing stuff up vicariously, watch after the jump.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Start grocery shopping for basic, nonperishable foodstuffs, like pickles, olives, nuts, wine, etc.
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"Gastón Acurio has restaurants in nine countries, a culinary school, and a hit television show. So how come you’ve never heard of him?" [Portfolio]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 10, 2008 at 9:45 AM
Must Wash Hands, a photo blog documenting "employees must" signs in restaurant loos. I heard once that the proper amount of hand-washing time was however long it took you to sing "Happy Birthday." Let's all not sing that aloud in the can, though. [via Eat Me Daily]
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"The credit crunch, rising unemployment and plunging stock prices have forced upscale Washington restaurants to lower their sights. Some of the most exclusive are offering affordable fare such as pizza, burgers and sandwiches alongside the Maine Lobster medallions and Russian caviar." [Bloomberg]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 10, 2008 at 7:30 AM
From left: Art Smith, Rick Bayless, Daniel Young
The New York Daily News reported on Sunday that three chefs are supposedly under consideration for the Obamas' White House chef. They are former Oprah chef Art Smith, authentic Mexican chef and food oracle Rick Bayless, and NBA star Carmelo Anthony's personal chef, Daniel Young.
I don't know if any of the three are seriously in contention for the job (the reporting was not exactly definitive), but if they are, I think Art Smith would be the odds-on favorite. In any case, the story got me thinking about who could or should get the job.
Serious Eaters, this is your chance to put forward your suggestions for filling the Obamas' White House chef job. After the jump, our suggestions.
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Photograph from Jamoker on Flickr
"Democracy is even tastier when served with waffle fries."
—anonymous
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 9, 2008 at 6:00 PM
For dexterous hands, illustrator Jason Shogreen takes the Bloods gang sign one step further with this "blood sausage" gang sign. [via Eat Me Daily]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 9, 2008 at 5:00 PM
Speaking of hunting, have you always wanted your thermos to look like ammo? This shotgun canister will earn you major points with outdoorsy hunter types. $24.77, from greatbigstuff.com [via Boing Boing Gadgets]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 9, 2008 at 4:00 PM
A study that examined the lead levels of more than 700 residents in North Dakota revealed the hazards of eating wild game shot with lead bullets. People who ate wild game killed with lead bullets had higher levels of lead than those who didn't. Although not dangerous for most people, North Dakota health officials recommend that pregnant women and children under six years old avoid eating venison killed with lead bullets.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Preorder your meats to guarantee the best cuts and birds. You should average about 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of meat per person.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 8, 2008 at 6:00 PM
"The sky is falling!" That's what Chicken Little said and then panicked after an acorn dropped on his head. Even though he comes from a fable, it appears chickens might be terrified of things in the sky.
In London, the Telegraph reported claims from a farmer that the presence of hot air balloons were causing her chickens to go into hysteria. But, in their attempt to hide, the birds bump into enough other frightened poultry, or walls, causing their unlaid eggs to explode inside their bodies, killing them.
This bit of news is surprising and sad. But fortunately, the ballooning company has agreed to steer clear of the hen's fields now.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 8, 2008 at 3:00 PM
In this video from Philly.com, Stewart admits she's never had a cheesesteak. Sure she's had a cheesesteak, just not in Philly. Come on, Martha! Philadelphia is, like, 90 minutes away (on a good traffic day)! Given a Pat's and a Geno's cheesesteak to try, she calls Pat's bland and says Geno's is better, though she doesn't seem that enthused about cheesesteaks in general.
Related: Pat's vs. Geno's on Colbert Report
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 8, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Lazarus Wine is made by people who are blind and uses the Braille alphabet. Madrid-based agency Baud designed the beautiful, innovative label, which comes in black or bright yellow. [via Swissmiss]
Related: Braille on Beer Cans in Japan
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It's from Philanthropy Roundtable, so it understandably has a heavy philanthropic focus. Still, there's some biographical background that may be of interest to Chick-fil-A fans.
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Plan your menu, and work out how much food per person you will need. Bookmark it: Butterball's Calculators and Conversions tools.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 8, 2008 at 9:00 AM
According to our handy site-metering utility, the top 10 most delicious items on Serious Eats this week were ...
1. Election Night Party Food
You all must have been busy cooking up poll-watching grub Tuesday night. See also: Election Night Party, from SE Talk.
2. Grilling: North Carolina Vinegar Barbecue Sauce
Heated discussion on the authenticity of our grilling contributor Joshua Bousel's North Carolina barbecue sauce recipe. It's gettin' hot in here. [from Recipes]
3. Why Don't Professional Chefs Use a Garlic Press?
"I have a garlic press that I love. I use it daily, whenever I need to add garlic to any of my recipes. It is quick and simple and easy to clean. I have noticed on Food shows on television, that almost all of the professional chefs, slice their garlic or hand chop it. It seems a waste of time to me. Can anyone out there enlighten me?" [from Talk]
4. President-Elect Barack Obama in 1,240 Cupcakes
There are a lot of Barack Obama–themed baked goods out there, but a picture of Obama made from 1,240 cupcakes is a whole other level of Obama food art. Zilly Rosen of Zillycakes in Buffalo, New York, made this cupcake mosaic.
5. Sweet Potato Fries: Who Likes These Things?
I get all Andy Rooney and talk trash on sweet potato fries. Who's with me? Who's against?
Continue reading »
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 7, 2008 at 8:00 PM
My dad, since day one, decided he hated mayo. Anytime we're at a restaurant, it's the same drill: him asking if mayo is on stuff, him specifying no mayo, and him basically scaring the server so bad, they wouldn't think to put mayo anywhere near him. Secretly, I always want to whisper to the waiter: "He's not really allergic to mayo."
Because it's all a lie. He won't break into hives or anaphylactic shock.
Yesterday's Washington City Paper broached the same topic: is it wrong to dislike a food, but at restaurants, call it an allergy? Most servers and chefs know your games. They know certain ingredients (like chicken or pepper) aren't likely allergens, but they'll give you fibbers the benefit of the doubt.
Are you guilty of the lies and games? You know you're not actually allergic to black licorice and cod liver oil!
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 7, 2008 at 7:30 PM
Desert Nostalgia: Our Chicago man Michael Nagrant was zapped to his past with D'Amato's tiramisu.
Burger Train: At Carney's in Southern California there is a severe lack of circus folk, but an abundance of box cars serving up tasty beef patties.
Fashionable Hot Dogs: Ed travels great lengths (half a block from Serious Eats HQ) for Charlie's Fashion Hot Dogs, where he dares Charlie to make a knish dog (a hot dog inside a big pillowy knish).
Italy, Studying Abroad in Chicago: Slice into the pizza-making skills of three Italian chefs (from Florence, Rome, and Sardinia) at I Monelli Trattoria Pizzeria in Chicago's Lincoln Square area.
If the Packers Love It: Mark Murphy, owner of the Green Bay Packers, left a note at Kroll's West in Wisconsin, touting it the best burger in the state.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 7, 2008 at 6:00 PM
I had to do a double-take when I saw this photo of a steamed mini crab dumpling in Renée Suen's Flickr. I've seen some creatively shaped dim sum in my life, but never a pink dumpling in the shape of a crab, complete with pincers, a speckled "shell," and black sesame seed eyes. Renée says that the dumpling was filled with fresh crab meat, shrimp mousse, and vegetable sprouts. To get your own pink baby crab dumpling go to Lai Wah Heen in Toronto.
Related
Photo of the Day: Little Dumpling
Photo of the Day: Giant Soup Dumpling
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Posted by Michael Nagrant, November 7, 2008 at 5:30 PM
Dim sum in these parts has basically jumped the shark. While we’re no Vancouver or San Francisco, we have a couple of really solid options, Phoenix and Shui Wah. Problem is like every brunch spot in the city, they’re so popular, you usually spend more time getting jostled by other fanny pack clad patrons waiting for a seat in the lobby than you do eating.
As a result, my dim sum consumption is pretty much in line with my green leafy vegetable consumption, which is to say, pretty much zero. Last Sunday, though, I pulled myself out of bed, won the culinary lotto, and found myself with only a five-minute wait at Shui Wah.
Shui Wah is home to the best chicken feet in town, pretty damn good “Baby bone-in satay," a Mongolian-style beef in gravy (though I’m not sure which beefy “baby” it is, since I’ve never asked, though sometimes you just don’t want to know), and lots of crisp fried and steamed dumplings.
There’s one particular dish, though, that I was just reminded of this particular morning that trumps all others: salt and pepper squid. The Shui Wah salt and pepper squid (aka protein fries) are rice flour–dusted, deep-fried, and sprinkled with seasoning salt and so much MSG that they basically taste like fried chicken sticks.
Plates of these goodies disappear from tables like McDonald’s french fries from their red cardboard pouches after you leave the drive-in window. They’re so good that, a few days ago, I’m pretty sure I ate Verne Troyer’s weight in squid sticks. Better yet, I didn’t even mind getting jostled by fanny packs.
Shui Wah
2162 South Archer Avenue, Chicago IL 60616 (map)
312-225-8811
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 7, 2008 at 4:00 PM
We're bananas for what goes on in Talk. There's so much useful, funny, and interesting stuff going on that we almost can't keep up. Here's some of the discussion that's piqued our interest this week.
How not to say, "I love you":
"I used to write little 'I love you' messages on the outside of their snack baggies, until my son brought his lunchbag home with the baggies empty and the messages unceremoniously scribbled out. When I questioned him about it, he got really embarrassed, and felt bad that he might have "hurt my feelings" but said, 'Mummy, I love you too, but when you write messages like that to me in my lunch the other boys tease me!'—juliebugsmama
What does a sweet potato french fry want?:
"It just wants to be baked in its own skin until its spitting sugar and then given a little pat of butter."—Soigne
Fashion dogs:
"Dang, that knish dog looks great! Too bad NYC is such a long walk from Michigan at lunch time..."—LunaPierCook
Proposal for a new holiday:
"But when is National Teenagers Make Dinner Night? Heck, I'd even settle for National Teenagers Do the Dishes and Take Out the Garbage without Complaining Night."—Dee
Don't peel a watermelon at home:
"Uh, I cannot describe in human words the carnage that would result were I attempt this."—C
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 7, 2008 at 3:30 PM
Gangsters did it during prohibition and now, even though liquor is legal, you can too. Gourmet's Ian Knauer shares his quick and easy recipe using juniper berries and spices. If you just want to spruce up a bottle of cheap gin, add sloe berries, a relative of the plum. This makes a ruby red, sweeter drink.
The base for making gin is vodka, so if you are like me and your stomach turns with each sip of the juniper berry-infused beverage, there are other things you can do to flavor it. Sauver featured a recipe for pineapple-infused vodka where you take sugar, vodka, and a whole pineapple. You let it sit in a glass container for two days and then strain it.
You can also infuse vodka with ginger, vanilla beans, bubble gum and even bacon.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 7, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Seasonal Marshmallows: Amanda Clarke develops a recipe for pumpkin-spice marshmallows, good for adding a kick to yams or sprucing up a cup of hot cocoa.
Decadence Has a New Name: And that name is glazed doughnut bacon egg cheeseburger. It has to be the most elaborate combination of fast food ingredients ever.
November 4th Cake: St. Louis food writer Ann Lemons Pollack explains the history of Election Cake, a patriotic dessert since Jefferson days.
Bacon Makes Everything Better: It's hard to find fault with the orecchietta with cauliflower and bacon dish, then again, it's hard to find fault with bacon.
Cactus, Not Caucus: When was the last time you cooked with a cactus? Never? Well, here is your chance with a recipe for seared steak tacos with cactus paddles.
Not Too Early for Turkey: The bird will have its moment later this month, but in the meantime, try this smoked turkey soup from the Meat Lite gals.
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Posted by Deb Harkness, November 7, 2008 at 12:45 PM
On Fridays, Deb Harkness of Good Wine Under $20 drops by with Serious Grape. This week, she stands up for cheapo wines.
Photograph from filtran on Flickr
In today's Wall Street Journal Tastings column, two of the country's most distinguished and level-headed wine journalists (Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher) announced their annual wine gift pick for the holidays.
Usually, this wine is expensive, hard to find, or both.
This year, it's a case of Gamay from the Beaujolais—one of the world's best wine bargains.
Gaiter and Brecher explain why they made this unorthodox choice: "a single, very expensive bottle of wine seems as dated as bloated executive bonuses." Is America ready to put aside its love affair with $100-plus bottles of wine with 95-plus ratings from the major critics? I think so. I think 2009 might be the year of the budget wine.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 7, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Did your parents love you as much as the dad behind Lunch Bag Art, a blog that shows the cute lunch bags he draws each day for his kids? Mine may have been, but couldn't show it because they weren't as artistically inclined. I hope Dylan and Dana keep the bags even after they finish their lunches.
Related
'Moldy' Bag Deters Lunch Thieves
The Most Disgusting School Lunches
Cute Cuddle-Worthy Bento Boxes
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Today's Thanksgiving Planning Tip: Plan how many people you will serve and make a guest list.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 7, 2008 at 10:00 AM
I was hoping that two barriers would be broken though this week--the more important one of course was Barack Obama becoming the first African-American president we've ever had. Watching the election returns with friends Tuesday night, I have to admit I had tears streaming down my face at 11 p.m. Eastern time when CNN and others announced Obama had the requisite 270 electoral votes necessary to become our next president. My son, Will, called from college right then, and though he is just about as cool a customer as president-elect Obama, I thought I even heard a quiver in his voice.
The second barrier I hoped to break this week was seemingly much more mundane: my own personal 240 pound barrier.
I know in the larger scheme of things, breaking this barrier is not very important to many people. But it does really matter to me and the people in my life who would like me to be around long after Obama has served his two terms in office.
Here's the problem with these two barriers breaking at the same time. The election was both stressful and celebratory (at least for me), and those two conditions are not usually conducive to weight loss. Consider the week I had, after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 7, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Photograph from Kevin Lawver on Flickr
Most Californians probably aren't awake yet, but when they rise, I hope something like this is waiting for them. Breakfast burritos are as West Coast as the vineyards and wheat grass. Growing up there, I had no clue that in other states, people didn't eat a massive hunk of food the size of Hulk's arm before noon. It just seemed so normal.
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Posted by Alaina Browne, November 6, 2008 at 8:44 PM
We'll be doing a bit of housekeeping on the site tonight beginning around 9 p.m. ET. We expect it'll take an hour to complete and during this time commenting, posting to Talk, and Photograzing will be disabled. Thanks for your patience, we'll be right back!
UPDATE: And we're back! Thanks again for your patience. 10:04 p.m. ET
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Cupcake blog Cupcake Takes the Cake interviewed Zilly Rosen, the baker and artist behind the 1,240 cupcake mosaic of Barack Obama's portrait, about how she made the mosaic along with other cupcake-related questions.
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"I’m black, you see, and I haven’t gained a pound since college. I skip breakfast most days, have maybe half a sandwich for lunch, and sometimes I forget to eat dinner. Just slips my mind. Yesterday morning, I woke up to a new world. America had elected a Skinny Black Guy president." —Colson Whitehead, Skinny Black Guy
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 6, 2008 at 5:15 PM
Photograph by Michele Humes
If your first reaction to this photo isn't, "BUUUNNNNIIIIIESS!!! AHHHH!!! EEEEHEEHEE! BUNNIIIESS!!!" then something's wrong with you. Because that was my reaction, and God knows I'm the definition of normalcy.
These rabbits, Brodsky and Peanut, belong to Michele Humes of the food blog Fine Furious Life. In an entry about innate likes and dislikes with food, she explains that while Brodsky loves carrots, Peanut won't touch them. Michele's dislikes include floral note, tarragon, and fennel. I would try to think of my own, but I'm too distracted by the adorably fluffy bunnies.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 6, 2008 at 5:00 PM
Each week we round up our favorite posts and recipes from our friends at The Kitchn.
This week, The Kitchn is celebrating high-pie season with a Pie Bakeoff. Enter the "classic" or "creative" category before next Monday for a chance to win lots of sweet pie-related stuff.
Since the Kitchn is in total pie mode, we made this a pie-themed roundup. Learn à la mode strategies, three approaches to the crust, how to make mini mince pies, and why one baker harbors anti-pie sentiments (gasp!).
Continue reading »
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 6, 2008 at 4:50 PM
Earlier today, I mentioned Bob Bacon trouncing Matt Fries in Colorado's District 14 State Senate election on Tuesday. In the comments there, Serious eater amanda0730 reminded us all of the "Would you rather give up bacon or french fries?" thread from July 29, 2008, in Talk.
With 56 serious eaters reporting, I'm ready to call that "election." Bacon wins by a landslide, giving this porky product a clear mandate to dominate our plates and palates for years to come. The eaters have spoken. The breakdown:
The issue: Would you rather give up bacon or fries?
Give up bacon: 15 (26.7%)
Give up fries: 28 (50%)
Undecided*: 13 (23.2 %)
Total serious eaters reporting: 56
Like some ballot initiatives, this one may have confused some voters, as a negative vote for one was a positive vote for the other.
* The elections commission here at SEHQ determined that undecided "voters" were those trying to give up neither, both, or folks who gave vague or hard-to-interpret answers.
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 6, 2008 at 2:00 PM
With all the intense preparation needed for Thanksgiving dinners, a baking mix or sauce mix here and there isn't going to make or break the authenticity of your meal. The key is to use mixes that actually make life easier, rather than ones that complicate your free time. While I may not be preparing a whole meal for the holidays, the least I can do is bring a side dish, or perhaps, a bag of fresh buttermilk biscuits. So when Ed Levine handed me a pack of Organic Southern Buttermilk Biscuit Mix ($10.50 at Williams-Sonoma, at stores only) to try at home, I happily obliged and got to work.
The tools necessary: the mix, a stick of unsalted butter, and a cup of milk. Easy enough, right? My verdict, and the final biscuits, after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 6, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Alissa Ruxin, an American with a masters in public health, was looking for a job in Africa--because Africa has overwhelming public health needs, she thought--but she found a kitchen opportunity instead. With no background in the hospitality industry, she and her husband Josh started Heaven Bar and Restaurant near the commercial center of Kigali, Rwanda, in the Kiyovu neighborhood.
Here, food is just one of many priorities. Also on the list: boost the economy, support tourism, and create jobs with livable wages and healthcare for orphans and other vulnerable youth. Not only does the concept and setting sound beautiful--a large terrace overlooking hilly Kigali decorated with hand-made furniture from Rwandan artisans--but the menu looks tasty too. Pumpkin squash soup, charcoal slow-roasted aubergine with yogurt and browned butter, dry-rubbed barbecued pork ribs.
Now, after opening four months ago, Heaven is looking for a head chef and manager. Feel like going to Rwanda? Ruxin is fine with short or long-term time commitments, and promises that Rwanda is safe, peaceful, and ready to rebuild post-genocide. If interested, email heavenrwanda@gmail.com.
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"Rule #3: Man, completely unaided, chooses a 'published' recipe from any source, or Internet. Getting the recipe from 'her' cookbooks is allowed, but man gets bonus points if the recipe isn't already somewhere in the house." May we suggest the Serious Eats Recipes archive? [menmakedinnerday.com]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 6, 2008 at 12:00 PM
I never thought of applying the word "peeling" to a watermelon, but this Japanese chef shows that with a good chef's knife and steady hands, you can peel an appropriately-sized watermelon...in 30 seconds. You know, for all those times you need watermelon flesh ASAP. Watch the video after the jump.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 6, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Halloween is over, but we still feel a bit devilish. So when blogger Brilynn of Jumbo Empanadas asks, "What's your favourite hors d'oeuvres or appetizer," we responded by Blogwatching her picturesque Shrimp-Topped Deviled Eggs. Retro-chic at its best and most delicious.
Besides deviled eggs, any other appetizers worth selling your soul for?
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 6, 2008 at 11:00 AM
John Scalzi
You might even say it's a landslide. That's Bob Bacon (D) vs. Matt Fries (R) running for Colorado's State Senate District 14. See the final tally here. I hope Bacon can reach across the aisle to Fries. I think their common ground is anywhere you can find a good burger. [via John Scalzi]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 6, 2008 at 10:30 AM
After eight weeks, a team of four brave Washington Post souls completed a little thing called Cupcake Wars, where week-by-week they sampled any cupcake they could get their paws on inside the Beltway. The winner: the chocolate ganache cupcake from Georgetown Cupcake, a spot that's only nine months old but already sells cupcakes to cultish proportions (4,000 on Saturdays).
Editor Joe Yonan—who I saw recently and miraculously looked exactly the same size—came up with a Ten Commandments of Cupcakes. Notable laws include:
1. Learn to walk before you run. Perfect the classic vanilla and chocolate cakes with complementary frostings before you step up to other simple combinations, and long before you try something like Summer Peach Meringue Pie Cupcake. Actually, never try Summer Peach Meringue Pie Cupcake...
3. Don't overbake...If you have cupcakes in the oven right now, go check them, because they're probably done—or overdone.
6. Respect your vanilla extract, and respect your chocolate. Vanilla is a flavor, not a synonym for "white."
Related
Serious Eats City Guide: Washington, D.C.
The Attributes of a Great Cupcake, by Ed Levine
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 6, 2008 at 8:30 AM
About six months ago we decided that it would be fun to produce more original video segments for Serious Eats. When I made a list of interesting people I wanted to interview on camera for a series called Chewing the Fat, Alton Brown was at the top of the list. Why? Because whenever I have watched him on the Food Network or chatted with him (ever so briefly) when I was an Iron Chef judge, I have always found Alton to be interesting, provocative, smart, and funny. We were thrilled when Alton agreed to do it. Who did we get to shoot, direct, and edit the Alton videos? None other than Hamburger America director and author George Motz.
This week's Chewing the Fat finds Alton discussing race, class, and food. In fact, as Alton himself notes, it's impossible to take a motorcycle eating trip down the length of the Mississippi River without discussing these issues. Ms.Clara Brantely, the extraordinary African-American woman Alton is conversing with, is the cook at Jim's Cafe in Greenville, Mississippi.
The Feasting on Asphalt DVDs are available at Foodnetwork.com and the book is available at Amazon.
Continue reading »
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 6, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Photograph from Augapfel on Flickr
Another amazing moment in garbled translation: Elaborate Bacon. Even better is the tagline: "Piece in heart! Fragrance in Mouth." Yes, after savoring the fragrance of the elaborate bacon in my mouth, that piece is going directly to my heart.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 5, 2008 at 9:00 PM
At Serious Eats, we have a little repository of links we call "The Link Garden." During the course of the day, when someone, anyone, on the SE staff sees something good to blog about but doesn't have time to do it, they "seed" the Link Garden with it. This musing on sweet potato fries by Houston food writer Robb Walsh was one of the seeds planted yesterday, and I volunteered enthusiastically to "water" it.
You see, I hate sweet-potato fries.
"What? You hate sweet potatoes?" Erin asked in follow-up when my comment appeared in the Link Garden.
"No, I like sweet potatoes—and will likely be eating them on the 27th. I hate sweet-potato fries."
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 5, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photograph from shastio on Flickr
There are a lot of Barack Obama–themed baked goods out there, but a picture of Obama made from 1,240 cupcakes is a whole other level of Obama food art. Zilly Rosen of Zillycakes in Buffalo, New York, made this cupcake mosaic yesterday to show her support; I hope that it was eaten today in honor of our next president. [via Cupcake Takes the Cake]
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Friend or Fan Lisa on Facebook.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 5, 2008 at 3:35 PM
As a part of our Celebrity Chefs Holiday series, some of America's best-known chefs and food television personalities share their favorite holiday dishes, provide recipes for them, and even tell us who will be at their holiday tables. Today we talk to Mario Batali.
What's your favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal and why? I love the stuffing and the gravy, they represent the most personal components of the meal. I don't think I'm alone in this regard. Doesn't everyone love stuffing and gravy?
What are you doing for Thanksgiving this year? Who's going to be there? What is the menu going to be? We're going to my sister-in-law's house with my wife Susi's family. I do not know the menu. It's really fun to go to somebody else's house and just enjoy the holiday.
Could you share a favorite Thanksgiving recipe with the Serious Eats community? My Goat Cheese Truffle recipe. It's good any time of the year, but somehow it just feels right to serve it at Thanksgiving.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 5, 2008 at 3:30 PM
Clockwise from top left: Mario Batali, Thomas Keller, Cat Cora, and Lidia Bastianich.
As part of our commitment to provide serious eaters with the most informative and entertaining holiday food content, we will bring you unprecedented glimpses into the holiday lives of some of America's best-known chefs and food television personalities. People like Mario Batali and Thomas Keller will talk about their favorite holiday dishes, provide recipes for them, and even tell us who will be at their holiday tables.
First up is serious eater Batali, currently starring in PBS's Spain... On the Road Again with Gwyneth Paltrow and Mark Bittman.. He'll be followed by, among other folks, Lidia Bastianich and Cat Cora. We'll let the rest of the A-list chefs be a surprise.
Celebrity Chef Holidays: Mario Batali »
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 5, 2008 at 2:30 PM
The Ethicurean, a blog devoted to the organic and sustainable eating ethos, is predisposed to love a film like Food Fight (not to be confused with Foodfight!), where the premise rests on the same mantra. But get ready for a plot twist—they didn't love it.
Here’s where I bite the nice hands who fed me the DVD review copy. We three found ourselves squirming restlessly in our pews. Too many putative saints were being paraded past us on litters of glistening lettuces, and the familiar hymns sounded off key in their new arrangements.
Ethicurean founder Bonnie Powell watched a preview copy (screenings are just in Los Angeles currently) and while she found it beautiful visually, said it could have used "a little less food, and a little more fight." Media savvy icons like Alice Waters, chef Dan Barber, and activist Michael Pollan were very celebritized, whereas no-name farmers didn't get much love.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 5, 2008 at 12:45 PM
“You are the Taishou! Taishou! The owner who won't refuse any press interviews. The cat who makes ramen noodles,” as the theme song goes.
Based on a Japanese comic book that later turned into an anime series, Neko Rahmen Taishō is an upcoming film about an angry-looking kitty named Taishou who becomes a ramen master. He uses his skills to create an array of weird dishes: canned cat food (adored by a food critic in one episode); dessert ramen with soy sauce, strawberries, and milk; and ramen composed of partially rotten ingredients. On a more appetizing note, his miso ramen, the favorite of his main customer, appeared a bit safer.
The movie, directed by Minoru Kawasaki and released in Japan on December 29, will feature an all live cast save for Taishou and another cat (who looks like his nemesis in the trailer), both played by giant stuffed animals and puppets. Watch a clip from the anime series, after the jump.
Continue reading »
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Egg-laying hens and veal-bound calves everywhere rejoice! With California's Proposition 2 passing yesterday, the farm animals will get ample wiggle room in those cages by 2015.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 5, 2008 at 11:30 AM
You may still be on a Halloween sugar high, but there's one more sweet you've got to eat. Nicole of Pinch My Salt tosses her sweet potato slivers with garlic, salt, and fresh rosemary then roasts them before serving the "fries" with a buttermilk blue cheese dipping sauce. She touts her little sweets as a savory alternative for "those of us who aren’t a huge fan of sweet potato dishes that are overly sweet"—a viable option for Thanksgiving.
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In anticipation of next week's return to Top Chef, Bravo launched a restaurant finder where alum and new contestants give their thumbs-up on 250 restaurants in the U.S., as well as a few sprinkled in France, Spain, and Italy.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 5, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Longtime fisherman Randy Hartnell; photo from Vital Choice
My Alaskan friend recently shipped me ten pounds of fresh salmon he caught in the Kenai River. Not a bad cardboard box to find waiting on your doorstep. My first batch—cooked with lemon, sea salt, and pepper— was so tasty, I wanted to jump up and down and invent a happy dance called "The Salmon."
Unlike the light pink, over-boiled salmon at Ikea (sorry Ikea)—and most salmon of my childhood (sorry Mom)—this one was a deeper, almost-red shade. Why is Alaskan salmon so much better? To understand, I went to Randy Hartnell, a longtime Alaskan fisherman and founder of a wild fish and berries company called Vital Choice. After over twenty years of fishing and educating people on sustainability issues, Hartnell knows his stuff and explained some basics of salmon.
Why is wild salmon almost twice as expensive as farm-raised? Comparing the two isn't "apples to apples." They have little in common beyond a shared name. As with other natural, whole foods, "cheaper" is as far removed from "good for you" as a piece of tree-ripened fruit is from artificially flavored orange soda.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 5, 2008 at 8:30 AM
Photograph from Rick on Flickr
Answering an emergency call Monday night, Swiss police trekked out to a rural road where motorists reported "a long trail of blood." They followed the mysterious red strip for 12 miles before realizing it was cargo from a butcher's supply van. The barrel of pork blood had spilled accidentally en route to a sausage factory.
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 4, 2008 at 6:30 PM
We're going to suspend our blogging for the day, since, like us, most of our U.S. audience will be glued to the TV tonight. Here's a fancy gadget from Google that shows election results as they roll in—and they're just starting to as we post this.
In the meantime, we'll leave you with this, from the Washington Post food blog, A Mighty Appetite: Where's Food on the Next Presidential Agenda?
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 4, 2008 at 6:00 PM
I like this idea—popping popcorn with herbs in the pot. I'm about to settle in for a long night of election results. What better than a nice big bowl of popcorn with an added twist? Passion for Eating, where the photo above comes from, has the instructions.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 4, 2008 at 5:30 PM
First it's pig parts, then it's sisig! Photographs from Burnt Lumpia.
How could you not want to read a blog post titled "Five Point Pork Exploding Heart Technique"? In this latest post from Marvin of Southern California-based food blog Burnt Lumpia, he unboxes a special package he received last week: a cooler filled with heritage breed Ossabaw pig parts, specifically belly, jowls, and ears. To celebrate the joyous bounty of pork, he will turn the parts into five delicious, pork-centric Filipino dishes to be enjoyed by his wife and him as the rest of us on the Internet simple stare and drool.
The first dish he makes is the porkalicious spicy sizzling sisig:
Sisig is a spicy and sourish Filipino dish usually comprised of pig ears, snout, and cheeks (and sometimes brain!) that have been boiled, grilled, and fried (yes, it's cooked thrice) with spicy chilies and then served on a hot sizzling platter. In other words, it's a platter of sizzling pig's face (and sometimes brain!).
Follow Marvin's recipe to make it at home. Stay tuned for his next four dishes for ideas on how to make the best use of a cooler full of pig parts.
Related
How to Butcher a Whole Pig's Head
How To Cook Pig Tails
Farm-Raised Ossabaw Pigs, Old School and Seriously Tasty
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 4, 2008 at 3:45 PM
When faced with cute Japanese candy, my brain tends to switch to "automatic Japanese candy response mode" by taking whatever candy is in front of me and placing it into my shopping basket. I have no choice but to buy what goes into my basket. No choice. Even if it's something as ridiculous as Takoyaki-ya San, a gummy candy meant to resemble octopus-filled dough balls. I saw it while shopping at Mitsuwa in Edgewater, New Jersey, where I only had to look at the package for two seconds before deciding, "This probably isn't worth my money, but I'm going to buy it anyway."
I wasn't enticed by the takoyaki resemblance though—the best part was that you had to make the candy yourself out of various powders and gummy bits that required stirring and shaping into their final forms. Would the final product look anything like takoyaki? Would it even be edible? The questionable results, after the jump.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 4, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Photograph from whirledkid on Flickr
Twenty-five California schools will participate in a federal program called the Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Snack Program, the goal of which is to get kids to try spinach, cabbage, and other scary good-for-you stuff from the ground.
For a school to be eligible, at least half the students must qualify for free or reduced-price lunches, according to the Los Angeles Times. The program first launched in 2002 with 25 schools in Iowa, Indiana, Michigan, and Ohio, as well as a Zuni reservation in New Mexico. Said one 10-year old from a participating Santa Monica school: "Not to brag or anything, but I've always been pretty good about my fruits."
Alice Waters's vision for the state is spreading, since this can only mean more schoolyard gardens, more salad bars, and less fruit snacks.
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Posted by Jamie Forrest, November 4, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Photograph from WordRidden on Flickr
As we close in on the last few months of a year many of us would soon rather forget, it seems somehow fitting to delve a little deeper into a class of cheeses whose pungent spice can soothe the aching heart: the blues. Like winter, blue cheeses are loathed just as much as they are loved. But love them or hate them, blues are some of the most important cheeses in the world, and some of the most interesting.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 4, 2008 at 1:30 PM
I love the idea of this blog—comparing a popular foodstuff to a similar but (sometimes) lesser-loved version. With voting for the superior snack.
On that note, when am I getting my Hostess Pie?
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Apparently so: "Flavour in ice cream is only released when the fat content–which carries the flavour–is warmed in the mouth to at least body temperature. During licking, the tongue is coated with a thin layer of ice-cream which is more quickly warmed and the flavour is detected by the large surface area of the taste buds present on the tongue." [via The Food Section]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 4, 2008 at 12:00 PM
When an election lasts this long, people start doing all kinds of crazy stuff. For one man, that meant rendering the faces of both presidential candidates on slices of American cheese. Artist Esteban Pulido used liquid photo emulsion for his art piece, which will be on display in Normon, Oklahoma, at Forward Foods through the rest of the day. CNN even sent a crew out there to document the decomposition, which is nasty and, according to Pulido, metaphorical. Short video, after the jump.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 4, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Sometimes actions, and food, speak louder than words. It may have been a queen who declared, "Let them eat cake!" but Bakerella insists that democracy can be just as sweet. These stunning and patriotic little cake pops are Bakerella's "sweet reminder" to take your bite out of the American pie today: VOTE!
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 4, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Eater Chicago isn't happening. Which makes us all a little sad—in some ways. All the news of openings and closings and comings and goings would have been well-handled by the Eater formula. An Eater site would have been a sort of recognition that Chicago had truly made it as a food city. Alas, it wasn't meant to be.
So, aside from our own regular coverage of Chicago eats, we wanted to list some of our favorite Chicago food blogs.
- Hungry Magazine: Serious Eats contributor Mike Nagrant helms this bona fide food magazine. He and his contributors update daily with a new review, think piece, recipe, or food memoir, always accompanied by great photography
- MenuPages Chicago: Edited by Helen Rosner, this aggressively updated site has got some sharp and funny writing—the Review Revues, the news roundups, and the original content make it a daily stop. A nearly unhealthy obsession over Grant Achatz and Michael Nagrant
- Drive-Thru, by Gapers Block, is a good-looking all-around smart Chicago food blog
- 312 Dining Diva: Aggregates the press releases like nobody's business. The daily posts are a must-read for knowing who'll be at the clubs, which chefs are on the move, and where to find dining and drinking deals around town. It's pink
- Time Out Chicago: OK, so it's a print magazine, but not only is all the weekly content available online, but there's also the TOC blog that seems totally plugged in: They're the ones who broke both the appointment of Ari Bendersky to helm Eater Chicago—and the news of the site's indefinite postponement
- LTHForum: Not a blog, but a super-active forum that's the place to go for up-to-the-minute news on openings, closings, chefs, and special events
Did we miss any?
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 4, 2008 at 8:30 AM
I blog by day and wait tables by night. I'm excited to bring you Served, dispatches from the front of the house. Enjoy!
I miss cooking. It's not that I don't spend plenty of time futzing in my kitchen at home, roasting veggies and searing salmon. Baking batches of cookies is my procrastination activity of choice. But there is nothing like cooking in a restaurant.
I (mostly) love waiting tables, but sometimes I long for my kitchen days of yore. A cook wouldn't have needed to be patient with the guy who asked me a grand total of 11 times last night why we didn't have a scotch list. We're a wine bar; we don't have a liquor license. I explained this twice, and then switched to dirty looks. They didn't deter the nine subsequent queries.
Both the front and back of the house can be frustrating, demanding, rewarding, infuriating, and amazing places to work. In my humble experience, here's why:
1. Cooks create: They make stuff with their hands. Mayo, capers, and cornichons get turned into remoulade; ducks get boned, cured, and plated with oranges; tart shells get pressed into molds and filled with lemon curd.
Sure, it all comes out the other end eventually. Food is fleeting—it's not as if cooks are building houses. But cooks have tangible, satisfying fruits to show for their labor. I found this deeply rewarding.
Waiters? Not so much. Doing the serving piece in the service industry means there is nothing concrete that comes out of working your ass off. If your guests have a great night, you feel a little proud. But for me, this does not come close to the satisfaction of creating awesome food. So, one point to BOH
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 4, 2008 at 7:30 AM
Before the maple syrup sogs up pancakes, it's just clear sap sitting in sap sacks. Jack Schmidling documents the process, which started last winter (sap flow needs freezing temperatures) and has now entered the boiling and jarring phases. He heats the sap until it reaches half the concentration of syrup, then cools and reduces the liquid to reach actual syrup consistency. This year, Schmidling tapped sap from 23 silver maple trees. [via Neatorama]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 3, 2008 at 9:00 PM
Photographs from Huffington Post
Staring at the screen tomorrow night, watching as states light up red and blue, will require energy. Depending on the winner, it may also require comfort food. Here's some ideas for your election night party menu:
Savory
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Last night, Julie Powell watched a "rough" cut of Julie and Julia, the movie (where Ed makes a tiny cameo!) inspired by Powell's 365-day and 524-recipe blog project. "I see my name in magazines in very close proximity to names like 'Meryl' and 'Nora' and take it in stride. But somehow seeing yourself—or a Rom-Com-ed, slimmed-down, considerably less foul-mouthed version of yourself—on a movie screen is a whole different thing."
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 3, 2008 at 7:30 PM
We know you've been waiting for this, so we won't keep you in suspense any longer, bwahahahahahah. The winners of the inaugural Serious Eats Pumpkin-Carving Contest are:
1. Grand Prize
OMNOMNOMNOMNOM, by sunkid
Prize: Viking Professional Chef's Cutlery Starter Set (includes: 5-inch flexible boning knife, 8-inch chef's knife, 4-inch paring knife).
2. First Runner Up
Castle of the Wicked Witch, by stike
Prize: 8-inch Viking Professional Chef's Knife
3. Second Runner Up
No Country for Old Men-o'-Lantern, by gavinworth
Prize: 4-inch Viking Professional Paring Knife
4. Third Runner Up
Joker-o-Lantern, by jenhappy
Prize: Williams-Sonoma Pumpkin-Carving Kit
Note from the Serious Eats Team: Hope your thumb is healing nicely!
Thanks to everyone who entered. This was a really tough decision, with everyone here arguing for different pumpkins. This was a lot of fun. Can't wait till next year!
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 3, 2008 at 6:30 PM
Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Caged chickens are right up there with gay marriage and Barack Obama on California's ballot this year. If passed tomorrow, the hot button Proposition 2, or the Prevention of Farm Animal Cruelty Act, will prohibit the "cruel confinement" of California's pigs, cows, and chickens. Farmers would have until January 1, 2015, to increase space within crates and cages or go entirely cage-free.
While many farmers and vets are behind the happy vision of animals being able to stretch their legs, the opposition argues that it could put local egg farmers out of business. If cage real estate gets too expensive, eggs will have to be imported from Mexico (where cage roominess standards don't exist). The birds, when left wild and outside, could also run into infections like bird flu and salmonella, argues Californians for Safe Food.
Business aside, it's hard to watch videos of pent-up animals (where they can't even turn around) and not feel awful. Yes on Prop. 2 says consumer egg prices would go up "by a few pennies per dozen," which is probably better than the hidden price animals pay. Oakland North, UC Berkeley journalism school's online news project, breaks down the issue really well.
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Congrats to wwaaww, scrumptiousphotography, her5boys, Catrona_sweeps, and lo82070. Winners have been notified by email and also appear on our Contest Winners page. Thanks to everyone who entered last week's Cook the Book!
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Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 3, 2008 at 2:25 PM
The Grocery Ninja leaves no aisle unexplored, no jar unopened, no produce untasted. Creep along with her below, and read all her mission reports here.
Many people love autumn—the gorgeous fall colors, plentiful apples, hot mulled cider, zany-shaped squash, leftover Halloween candy, etc. I'm no fall grinch, but I completely overdosed on apples as a poor grad student (seriously, I'm talking ten apples a day instead of real food), and am now wary of them. I'm sure my love affair with apples will revive one day, but meanwhile, I'm staying away from them until there's absolutely nothing left to eat in the fruit department.
But in fall, what else besides apples can I add to my breakfast muesli—that would not make the food mile hall of shame? Fortunately, living in a college town with a serious horticultural research scene has its perks. (Even if it does seem the cows outnumber us humans.) These emerald beauties you see are a marvel of nature—harvested in fall, yet tasting of sunshine and blue skies. Since I discovered them at the farm stand down the road (also known as the Cornell Orchard Store), I've been sneaking into the kitchen and popping them by the handful at every opportunity (they are very pop-able).
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Posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 3, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Words by Lucy Baker | Simon Hopkinson is dismayed by the current state of mustard. Specifically, of "the half-used jar of very good, expensive Dijon mustard that has lived on that warm kitchen shelf forever—and yet is still in use. I have been known to throw other people's mustard away... This simply won't do."
In truth, Hopkinson is less upset about wasted condiments than he is about what they stand for: our collective trepidation in the kitchen, our growing reliance on prepared foods, and our impatience when it comes to cooking a traditional meal. Hence, we buy a pricey jar of French mustard, add a teaspoon or two to a recipe we make once, and then forget about the mustard entirely, in favor of can't-be-bothered take-out dinners.
It should come as no surprise then, that his first cookbook, the smashingly successful Roast Chicken and Other Stories, was named "the most useful cookbook of all time" by the British magazine Waitrose Food Illustrated. Above all else, Hopkinson wants us to actually cook his recipes, as opposed to just "idly turning the pages...until the microwave pings."
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 3, 2008 at 1:00 PM
The blog Eat Me Daily did some nice number play with Thomas Keller's new book, Under Pressure:
Number of photographs of Thomas Keller that appear in Under Pressure, his new cookbook dedicated to the art of sous vide: 10
Number in which he is frowning: 7
Number in which he is smiling: 2
Number in which he is neither frowning nor smiling, but appears to be dancing the macarena: 1 (page 98)
Year in which Keller says he began vacuum-packing food: 1986
Under Pressure is Keller's tome that delves into the world of sous vide cookery.
And now, to spread the pain, I've got something after the jump for you.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 3, 2008 at 12:00 PM
This past weekend, Saturday Night Live was all about the John McCain appearance (and had very few food references), but we forgot to tell you about the weekend before, with Mad Men actor Jon Hamm promoting an innovative product.
Jon Hamm's name conveniently lends itself to some toilet humor wordplay: Ham that belongs in a bathroom stall? Near the sink, you'll find a nice garnish for the perforated squares of pink meat: mustard soap (which contains no real soap). Watch the video after the jump. And does your name also carry homonyms for a weird food product?
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 3, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Vanessa of What Geeks Eat warms the cool fall air in Wisconsin with one of the hardiest breakfast foods out there, biscuits and gravy. This savory dish always reminds me of long road trips and an early morning breakfast at a random truck stop off the highway. It also reminds me of home, and eating at the Denver Diner. Oh, how I crave the succulent buttermilk biscuits and spicy sausage gravy.
Vanessa posted her recipe, but for the vegetarians out there, you can easily substitute a pack of ground veggie sausage and add a dash of cooking oil to make it richer.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 3, 2008 at 8:30 AM
With budgets tightening across all economic strata in this country, many families are selectively bypassing organics to save money, according to the New York Times' Andrew Martin. The question that I find even more pressing is whether people are going to stop shopping at farmers' markets across the country, which are generally more expensive than both conventional and organic supermarkets.
What are serious eaters everywhere doing to save money? Are organically and/or locally grown produce still important to you? As Martin put it, are consumers going to decide they can no longer afford to let their conscience dictate their shopping list?
I for one will not stop supporting my local farmers. I have always felt that local and sustainable trumps organic, but now that we've had our first frost here in the northeast, locally grown food is going to get harder and harder to come by. Local apples will continue to be available all winter, though the longer they are off the tree, the worse they are. I am willing to buy conventionally grown lettuce, celery, carrots, and onions at my local supermarkets because I don't believe that organic produce grown in California and trucked or shipped 3,000 miles to New York is any tastier or better for me.
After the jump, how I'm saving money in these tough times. How are you saving money and still eating seriously these days?
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 3, 2008 at 8:00 AM
Savvy Housekeeping
If you're in the habit of incorporating cottage cheese into your breakfast, you might want to know how to make it. It's pretty darn easy and makes good use of any milk you might have that's about to go bad. It takes only some vinegar, a thermometer, and cheesecloth—along with a colander and a pot. Savvy Housekeeping has the details.
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Posted by Lucy Baker, November 2, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Last Friday, Great Britain's Daily Telegraph reported that "sales of custard over the last six months have increased by 20 per cent compared to the same period last year." The global financial crisis has reached a frightening crescendo, and consumers are attempting to "ward off the economic crisis with nursery fare from their childhood."
What's true in England is also true here in the United States: the popularity of cheap, comforting foods such as boxed macaroni and cheese and instant chocolate pudding is on the rise. More people are cutting back on food costs by staying home and cooking for themselves, and the meals they are making are often composed of bargain staples and pre-made ingredients.
But just because we're tightening our belts figuratively doesn't mean we must tighten them literally. I wanted to see if it was possible to prepare a silky, creamy, totally indulgent French dessert for next-to-nothing. What did I choose when I hit my local supermarket, jar of pennies in tow? Dr. Oetker's Classic Crème Brûlée Premium Dessert Mix. At $1.79 it serves four, which breaks down to a mere 45 cents a person. It doesn't get much cheaper that that.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 1, 2008 at 8:30 PM
Holiday Dessert from Bon Appétit: In all it's ginger crusted glory, spruce up your Thanksgiving table with a lavish pumpkin cheesecake.
Stir Fry This: The cool thing about stir fry is that you can substitute almost anything for the basic ingredients as long as you keep the core herbs and protein, like the lemony chickpeas in this recipe.
It's Not a Red Twinkie: Tapping into childhood memories of spongy red cake, Amanda Clarke successfully tests out her version of cranberry zingers, only no plastic wrapping.
Orange and Black All Over: Just when you thought this spooky squash couldn't get any more exciting, along comes pumpkin gelato in a dark chocolate cup with a dash of mint.
Delicious Crumby Veggies: Another tasty Thanksgiving oriented recipe, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower gratin, which is coated in a toasted pine nut and bread crumbs.
Double the Sauce: As if one pasta sauce wasn't enough, Bucatini alla Lipari combines two. One consists of pureed nuts and garlic, and the other a basic tomato sauce with onions. Mix them together and watch the magic.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 1, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Well, you can't have your cigarette and smoke it too, but now you have the option to drink it. The Dutch company that created Liquid Smoking decided to give it a fruit flavor instead of cigarette flavor. The herbal drink is meant to help smokers in nonsmoking situations, like at the doctor's office or on an airplane. According to the Daily Mail, the drink "promises an instant high followed by a "euphoric calming feeling."
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 1, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Photograph by FotoosVanRobin on Flickr
Sweet potatoes are not to be mistaken with yams, even though the terms are often used interchangeably. Sweet potatoes are the common red-brownish skinned root vegetables with sweet orange flesh and semi-smooth skin; there is also a variety with yellow flesh, with a taste resembling a mix of potato and apple. Yams usually have a rough dark brown skin, similar in texture to tree bark, with a white, purple, or red flesh. Yams do not have orange flesh. Therefore, most of what you see in the supermarket labeled as a yam is in fact a sweet potato (thanks to the U.S. Department of Agriculture), so keep your eyes peeled, cause you're bound to be confused.
Sweet potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to cook that taste like candy without adding too much sugar. I usually make two at a time to make enough for a couple portions. For the simplest and most comforting mashed sweet potato recipe, cube and boil them for 15-20 minutes, or keep whole, poke a few holes, wrap in foil, and roast in the oven for 45-55 minutes. When done, remove the skin without burning your fingers, add a teaspoon of butter and maple syrup (brown sugar or agave nectar also work) and mash with a fork. My mom likes to roast the orange and white fleshed potatoes together for color variation, and adds plenty of orange juice and a dash of cinnamon.
Sweet Potato Recipes
Pioneer Woman's Sweet Potatoes
Sweet Potato Spoon Bread
Sweet Potato Gratin with Onions and Sage
Sweet Potato Salad with Caramelized Onions and Guajillo Chile Dressing
Vanilla Mashed Sweet Potatoes [101 Cookbooks]
Sweet Potato and Sausage Soup [smitten kitchen]
Curried Lentils with Sweet Potatoes and Swiss Chard [New York Times]
Sweet Potato Fries w/ Basil Salt and Garlic Mayo [Food Network]
Alton Brown's Sweet Potato Waffles [Food Network]
Orange-Flavored Sweet Potatoes with Oatmeal Cookie Topping [Epicurious]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 1, 2008 at 1:00 PM
I don't know about you, but I'm not afraid to admit that I am befuddled by menus at certain Asian restaurants. To the rescue comes EGullet co-founder Steven A. Shaw's new book, Asian Dining Rules. I really like this book, as you can easily tell from my blurb (hey, it's my blurb, so it's not plagiarism to reprint it in its entirety):
Whether you're a General Tso's chicken freak who has a hard time using chopsticks or an ultra-refined sushi aficionado looking for your next fugu fix, you're sure to find something informative, entertaining, and/or diverting in Shaw's book. Asian Dining Rules is refreshingly and suprisingly unsnobby, and a discerning must-read for any serious Asian food eater.
Notice how I managed to squeeze "serious eater" into my blurb? Anyway, thanks to Steven's publisher, William Morrow, we've got five (5) copies of Asian Dining Rules to give away. How do you win it? Tell us what your most befuddling ordering and dining experience at an Asian restaurant has been to date. You have until 3 p.m. ET Monday to leave what I hope will be a thoroughly embarrassing comment.
Contest will end and comments will close at 3 p.m. ET, Monday, November 3, 2008. One entry per community member. The standard Serious Eats contest rules apply.
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 1, 2008 at 9:00 AM
According to our handy site-metering utility, the top 10 most delicious items on Serious Eats this week were ...
1. Chewing the Fat: Alton Brown on Doughnuts
Alton Brown and Ed Levine chat about the art of the doughnut.
2. Cooking with Kids: Bacon Doughnuts
"See these awesome maple-bacon doughnuts I made? I actually can’t take any credit for them. The idea came from Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland, Oregon, where they serve a maple bar with bacon strips on top."
3. The Haute Cuisine 'Submarine' Burger from Father's Office in Los Angeles
"It is a hot day in Los Angeles. I have a plane to catch in a scant two and a half hours, yet I am heading in the opposite direction from both my hotel and the airport. I am on a mission to eat what has been widely lauded as the best burger in L.A." [from A Hamburger Today]
4. America's Regional Candy
Like sports teams and hot dog styles, candy inspires fervent regional loyalties. Thanks to the Great Depression, the candy industry was booming during the early 1900s, when a nickel was all people could afford for a high-energy snack or meal. It's kind of scary—maybe exciting for the sake of candy—to think we've come full circle, but regardless, economic crisis or not, we'll never stop loving the candies from home.
5. Served: Welcome to the Restaurant World
"Guys, stop for a second," P. orders, gesturing with her wine bottle as if it were a weapon. It is after midnight, and we are still running around in full-fledged frantic mode. "Let's hold a moment of silence." J., P., and I grasp hands and summon a focused, deliberate prayer: "Please, please, no crazy restaurant rush."
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