I don't like most chocolate cookies. They're confusing: unless they're absolutely loaded with chocolate, they don't taste much like chocolate at all; on the other hand, they don't quite taste like cookie, either. Chocolate chippers, fine. Oreos, fine, because the filling saves them. The typical chocolate cookie, though, doesn't do much for me.

But chocolate biscuits are another story.

Say what you will about the British and their food, our friends across the pond are very good at dipping things in chocolate. And Fortnum & Mason's Chocolossus Biscuits are no exception. In fact, they may be the tastiest chocolate biscuits I've ever eaten.

True to its name, the Chocolossus is enormous (almost the size of my palm) and almost unbearably chocolatey (as much chocolate as biscuit). The crumbly interior, sparingly studded with nuts, tastes like a brownie in cookie form–and it's embraced by a half-inch shell of fine, dark chocolate. Is it a gigantic cookie-bottomed truffle? Is it a hunk of premium chocolate with a biscuity crumble nudged up inside? It seems wrong to call the Chocolossus a chocolate-covered biscuit, as if to imply that the chocolate plays a secondary role. It doesn't. It steals the show. And it's delicious.

Ever since my first bite I've been gleefully sharing the Chocolossus with everyone I know, and the reaction has been invariably the same: "It's huge." Crunch. "It's amazing!"

It is. And, better yet, it's available online. Thank goodness for globalization.


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