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New Sustainable Sushi Guides Available Oct. 22

20081016sustainablesushi.jpg

While we're all very familiar with the sustainable agriculture and farm-to-table movements, sustainable seafood has gotten lost in the shuffle. With all the sushi Americans consume each year, you'd think there would be more concern for the history of how sashimi gets to your table and what's done to the environment in the process.

According to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program, "Sustainable seafood is from sources, either fished or farmed, that can maintain or increase production into the long-term without jeopardizing the affected ecosystems."

It's easy to go uninformed about your fish if you don't ask questions. Most sushi restaurants don't provide specific origins, and asking a chef can be intimidating but might be the only way to get a clear answer.

Thankfully, on October 22, new sustainable seafood/sushi wallet guides will help arm you for your conversation. Blue Ocean Institute, Environmental Defense Fund, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium held a tasting event at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan recently to promote these guides, which are color-coded to indicate how smart your seafood choices are, from environmentally-friendly fishing and farming practices to health concerns. The tasting menu at the event was provided by the first all-sustainable sushi restaurant in the country, Tataki, in San Francisco: the mouth-watering rolls included suzuki (striped bass), amaebi (sweet shrimp), and a deluxe sashimi plate including yellowfin tuna, wild Alaskan salmon, mackerel, and skipjack tuna, among others.

More info about the guides, some of the surprising listings, and more resources, after the jump.

Here's the key from the guides:

green-sushi.png for the best environmental and health choices
yellow-sushi.png for sufficient alternatives
red-sushi.png for what to avoid

A good portion of popular seafood consumed in America is listed in the red category, including Atlantic Halibut, Bluefin tuna, Imported King crab, Atlantic or farmed salmon, octopus, and freshwater eel. Some of the most popular sustainable choices include U.S. caught Albacore tuna, Alaska wild salmon, and U.S. farmed shrimp.

For better choices, here are some steps you can take:

1. Ask the chef.
2. Reference your guide.
3. If you're without the guide, text "FISH" and the species name to 30644.
4. Visit fishphone.org to view a guide on your phone.
5. Then, at home, visit any of these online guides, provided by Blue Ocean Institute, Environmental Defense Fund, and Monterey Bay Aquarium.

You can order the print guides to be mailed, but you will also be able to view the updated listings online as well. I recommend getting the print version—they're perfectly sized for the credit card slot in your wallet, and your friends will clearly see how serious you are about your sushi.

7 Comments:

Thanks for featuring the sustainable sushi story. You can get instant access to the Monterey Bay Aquarium's recommendations on your mobile device (sushi and all our other regional seafood guides) by connecting to www.SeafoodWatch.org. And, through Oct. 28, take part in a virtual sushi party nationwide. Details on the Aquarium's Facebook page. -- Ken Peterson, Monterey Bay Aquarium

My favorite neighborhood sushi spot, Masu East (in Portland, OR), is closing on November 1st for a week to transition into a sustainable-only sushi restaurant. I'm incredibly excited and can't wait to go. I've so far been unable to resist the temptation of a good toro...

Devlyn, thanks for the info. I'm excited to know that we are going to have a sustainable-only sushi restaurant in Portland. I hope more people and restaurant owners become aware of the plight of the overfishing and turn to the sustainable option.

Please join our sustainable sushi event on the Leather District Gourmet. I've extended the deadline to include the National Sushi Party/Sushi Advocate challenge. Let's see how many Serious Eaters can rise to it!

I was also at the FCI event and have a slideshow on my blog if SE'ers are interested in seeing some of the event.

Thanks,
Jacqueline Church
The Leather District Gourmet [at] wordpress [dot] com

Some of my clients in the international fisheries and aquaculture industries have some hard questions for the authors of these guides:

* Why is nutritional guidance being given to the public without any peer review or even the availability of the underlying medical assertions?

* Since the guides conflate “mercury and other contaminants” – even citing fish like salmon with scant trace amounts, how can consumers avoid confusion about the specific health threats being alleged?

* If these guides actually dissuade some consumers from eating seafood altogether, as the federal government has warned can occur from alarmist nutritional information, wouldn’t that deny Americans proven and vital health benefits of eating fish?

* Is it appropriate for environmental lobbying groups to be providing nutritional advice to the public in the first place?

So that platter of sashimi looks like my dinner!

@emcerlain: You make some interesting points that bring a measure of balance to the debate--especially about whether environmental lobbyists should be allowed to give nutritional advice without medical review of those assertions. Can you point our readers to resources for additional information about these concerns?

To broaden the discussion, Sushi Otaku discusses the limited effect an outright ban of endangered fish has on their populations. He advocates instead for sustainable practices, like a return to hook-and-line fishing. Promoting sustainable fishing is the best way to protect the oceans' biodiversity. (And the first step toward doing that is to simply ask your fishmonger for it.)

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