Just because J. Kenji Alt is one of our burger correspondents on AHT, doesn't mean he's scared of tofu. Over at Goodeater, he argues that tofu shouldn't be a meat substitute, but a delicious addition to meatopia. In fact, he thinks homemade tofu can rival pork belly.
As he notes, "you can't make a great burger with bad meat, and you can't make great tofu with bad soy milk." Start with a quart of the best unflavored soy milk you can find and add a couple drops of nigari. He makes a good case for coagulated soy bean juice, considering he's such an adamant carnivore.