Why Isn't Chinese Food Hip?
Crispy lamb filets with chili cumin from Szechuan Gourmet. Photograph taken by Kathryn Yu
Wall Street Journal food writer Raymond Sokolov poses this very question as he decries the dearth of both high-quality, high-end Chinese restaurants in America and contemporary non-Chinese chefs in American kitchens who rarely look to China for inspiration.
Is he right? I have an opinion, but I'm sure many other serious eaters do as well.
I think he is correct in saying many excellent American chefs are more likely to find inspiration in other Asian cuisines, namely Japan, Thailand, and Korea. But it must be noted that David Chang makes a better pork bun than any I've had in a New York Chinatown restaurant. He also makes a fried chicken at Momofuku Noodle Bar that clearly pays homage to a Chinese dish found in many Chinese restaurants. In fact, when I tasted it for the first time, I asked Chang, and he flat out told me he was trying to replicate a dish he had eaten many times in lower Manhattan's Chinatown.
But another reason for the lack of Chinese influence on chefs might be the difficulty for American chefs to apprentice in Chinese restaurants, both in China and America. Sokolov mentions Sichuan cooking expert Fuschia Dunlop as a beacon of Chinese food in the west, but Dunlop is one of the few westerners who has attended cooking school in the Sichuan province.
I also take issue with Sokolov's characterization of Chinese restaurant food in America. Maybe the ma po tofu was somehow lacking when Sokolove tried it at Szechuan Gourmet, but there is much great food to recommend there, including a killer lamb with cumin. I've also had first-rate Sichuan food at Grand Sichuan Eastern with none other than Dunlop herself, who seemed quite impressed with the place in general. Finally, I would urge Sokolov to head down to Chinatown Brasserie for some of Joe Ng's incredible dim sum.
Do you think Chinese food is still hip?
Szechuan Gourmet
21 West 39th St, New York 10018 (b/n 5th and 6th Avenues; map)
212-921-0233
Grand Sichuan Eastern
1049 2nd Ave, New York 10022 (b/n 55th and 56th Streets; map)
212-355-5855
Related
A Meal at Szechuan Gourmet: Your Weekend Eating Assignment
Another Manhattan Sichuan Restaurant Worth the Sweat
The Best Dim Sum in New York Isn't in Chinatown
Talking with Fuchsia Dunlop: One Englishwoman's Take on Food in China Today
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37 Comments:
When was Chinese food EVER hip?
Not that I have problems with that, because food is delicious regardless of hip factor.
I'm a huge fan of szechuan gourmet but this country is never going to clamor for sichuan food or any other region Chinese food the way we crave Babbo.
We don't have take-out italian or take-out french food. We have take-out chinese food. People are never gonna look past the fact that they think they can get the same level of satisfaction for a fraction of the cost.
I don't think chinese food has ever been hip and ever will be hip.
foodinmouth at 2:30PM on 09/09/08
It seems there are two issues: Chinese food not being properly represented in the States, and Chinese food not being "hip." Good points on the former, Ed, and to that I might add the frustrating problem of "real" or authentic menus being printed only in Chinese while Western customers get tossed a blah Americanized menu at so many good restaurants. Who's to say what becomes hip or when it will, but by declaring that a whole national cuisine is un-hip, I smell (or hope for) a backlash in store! (I totally disagree with foodinmouth, obviously.)
Cathy@noteatingoutinny at 3:02PM on 09/09/08
bring on the backlash. that's all i can say. if the country can prove me wrong, then all the better for my taste buds. :)
i think the market is efficient. we sustain what we want to eat. part of the problem is definition of what is chinese food. Ed's on point in saying Chang's pork buns are probably the best in all five boroughs. But we don't count that as chinese food? people go to momo restaurants, they're hip, the city keeps going back but... not chinese food?
who knows, maybe when Susur Lee comes to town, it'll change the dynamic of the dining scene. I just gotta see it to believe it. and maybe it's about how we define it.
(and i'm too lazy to capitalize correctly, sorry)
foodinmouth at 3:20PM on 09/09/08
There are a number of problems:
Quality. Unless someone starts making Chinese food of the same quality as one gets at high end restaurants in China then it will be the Wal-Mart of foods.
Authentic. Until most Chinese restaurant owners realize that Americans actually are quite adventurous in their eating, you will get the boring bland food served from the American version of the restaurant's menu.
Marketing. Quite frankly Chinese restaurant owners need to understand the meal is more than the food. Contrast this to, say, Japanese restaurants. Many Chinese owners start sushi places because they feel they can charge up and get higher margins because they will be selling an already marketed product (sushi).
When I go into a Japanese restaurant I generally assume it will be high quality, have some wacky menu items, and will be reasonably authentic. With a Chinese restaurant I assume low quality, generic menu items, and stuff no one in China actually eats.
chaevans at 3:29PM on 09/09/08
Yeah, the take out thing with Chinese turns a lot of people off taking it very seriously. When I went to China few years back I wasn't looking forward to the food part of it... but that ended up being the best part of the whole trip. And I've never eaten any food like that since I've come back to North America. Mind you, I don't seek out high end, authentic (or even take out) Chinese food here at home.
wandabun at 3:40PM on 09/09/08
My uneducated guess is that price is a factor. People seem to be okay shelling out upwards of $200 for quality Japanese and Italian meals, but bulk at investing the same in a Chinese meal. There's a Chinese saying "yi fen qian yi fen huo" which literally translates to "one cent of money gives you one cent of goods" -- you get what you pay for. As an example, one of Australia's top restaurants is Flower Drum, which serves exceptional Cantonese cuisine. You wait three months for a table and pay an average of $40 for a main. Most of us wouldn't expect to get quality sashimi for under $10, so why expect sashimi quality at that price in a Chinese restaurant?
onedaylingers at 3:55PM on 09/09/08
sorry, "baulk"
onedaylingers at 3:57PM on 09/09/08
Polynesian-Chinese fusion restaurants have a kitschy, hip aspect. I know of only one, though, and it's in NoNJ . . . called Chan's Waikiki. It's a good time. Pu-pu Platters and Mai Tais galore.
Taiwanese cuisine -- Chinese in origin -- was entirely overlooked by Sokolove. I love Taiwanese bubble teas, which I still think are pretty hip. Though they definitely had a fad thing going for a while. Beef Noodle Soup and San Bei Ji are my favorite dishes. Mmmm.
There's an authentic Taiwanese place here in the Pittsburgh, the Rose Tea Cafe. I'm gonna be in the Squirrel Hill neighborhood around dinner time (post music lesson), so I just might eat there tonight!
Susquehanna at 3:59PM on 09/09/08
How British of you onedaylingers...
lawofmurphy at 4:00PM on 09/09/08
At least in Los Angeles we can escape to pretty dang fine Chinese in the San Gabriel Valley. I don't think there's any place else like it in the US.
wavewench at 4:10PM on 09/09/08
I'm reading Dunlop's 'Shark's Fin and Szechuan Pepper' right now, and it makes me want Szechuan food even less than I did before.
Buckethead at 4:41PM on 09/09/08
Part of it might be that Chinese food is hard to make as architectural in presentation as French food. Food is chopped into chunks that are easy to pick up with chopsticks. Hard to get height and drama if everything just falls into a mixed-up pile. And who's going to pay $50 for a plate of mixed-up stuff?
Harlan at 4:45PM on 09/09/08
Harlan, not all Chinese food is chopped into chunks (I have photos to prove).
chaevans, while it is true that Americans are adventurous, not all Americans are. Just check out Buckethead's reaction to Dunlop's "Shark's Fin and Szechuan Pepper".
The bottom line is that Americans aren't willing to pay more (even a little more) for Chinese food. It has been ingrained that Chinese food should be cheap (in price). And if nobody's willing to pay just a little more, then a restaurant that charges a little more will get no business.
The irony of it all is that even if you pay a little more for Chinese food at a somewhat upscale Chinese restaurant, in most cases, you get a lot more (food) for your money.
tekna at 5:09PM on 09/09/08
All the comments on this post show that people have very strong feelings about Chinese food. I don't know how adventurous American palates are in general, but I don't think that most Americans who love Chinese food are clamoring for more authentic fare. But I don't think authenticity has anything to do with hipness. Faux authenticity, maybe. Americans have always resisted paying a lot for Chinese food, so onedaylingers raises a really good point. But does the price of a meal say anything about the hipness of Chinese food.
Ed Levine at 5:36PM on 09/09/08
Since when is Sichuan food the synonym of Chinese food? It is only one of the many major regional food originated from China. It is almost like writing a whole article saying "why American food is not hip" but only really focused on soul food.
sundae_1888 at 5:36PM on 09/09/08
Regardless of how you feel towards these two cuisines...chinese and french have always been considered classically the two greatest, most influential cuisine in teh world.
Chinese cuisine has been "hip", particularly in the asian countires so greatly influenced by it. In america, i simply attribute the lack of hte great, grand chinese restaurants that exist in other countires, simply because the fact is the chinese restaurant fad was at its peak in the eighties...
But i suspect thats all going to change.I really bleieve.. as even ruth reichel says, grand chinese cuisine is going to be making a big impact in the american dining scene
acomment at 5:41PM on 09/09/08
And also, for anyone questioning if the grandness ( the equivelency of what would be "haute" cuisine) of chinese food ever existed...
well the question wouldn't be posed in the wsj at all if chinese cuisine wasn't or hasn't been grand.... It is a real wonder why this hasn't happened earlier, but it is going to happen soon.....
Being a nation in large part of western palate, we seek to identify ourselves with the hipness, that is the rediscovering of offal cooked in western style .. It is now "hip" to cook roasted marrow bones and serve it with toast. I don't doubt very soon instead of braised cockcombs, we're going to be clamoring for swallows nest....braised chicken feet...etc.
acomment at 5:51PM on 09/09/08
The problem is the ignorace, such as the ignorace displayed by HARLAN.
I understand the lack of interset or understanding as i'm not exactly preaching to the choir here in America.
There is a differnece b/n say bistro french food, and then haute cuisine french food. One is obviously more geared toward casual eating, the other being a dining expereince. The same goes with chinese. To suggest chinese food is limited too chopped displays the problem. Its just not true.
Its a differnt type of beauty, which is why classicaly chinese/french have been consdiered worlds greatest cuisines..
Look to Steingarten, Reichl. They understand, and they're probablywondering the same thing too about chinese food in america.
acomment at 6:10PM on 09/09/08
I also strongly disagree with you Ed that authenticity doesn't have anything to do with hipness. Look at italian food...For years...its been spaghetti and meatballs, and it was a time when italian food wasn't particualry hip as in "haute" upper class refined cuisine. (Although in large part thats b/c historically unlike in china, italy didn't have the concept of refined "royal" cuisine)
Now that italian cuisine has become part of hip style cuisine, there s a trend to disscoicate the cuisine with its americanized style. These days it seems people are so worried about whehter or not they're eating their pasta al dente b/c its how the italians do it, not because they may or may not prefer al dente pasta. And there are more examples.
People like hte idea of eating something that is not only foreign and authentic, but also really enjoyable.
acomment at 6:20PM on 09/09/08
American's adventurous eaters? That's a joke. Aside from a tiny minority of people who read food blogs on a daily basis, American's are known as laughably UN-advanturous eaters. American tourists are responsible for hamburgers and hot dogs on menus throughout the world. American's by in large generally EXPECT to be able to eat these wherever they go.
wthrop at 8:13PM on 09/09/08
acomment, I agree with your plethora of comments, except for the grouping of swallow's nest with chicken feet as a comparison to offal. You don't see people climbing high on cliffs with precarious bamboo ladders to collect chicken's feet.
mmm... all this talk of braised chicken feet has given me a dim sum craving. Luckily I live in Toronto where authentic Chinese abounds.
dennisharvey at 11:11PM on 09/09/08
The short answer is we don't have the good stuff yet. The long answer has something to do with how heavy the stuff we do have can be.
Here's a lovely article on the subject by Nina and Tim Zagat:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/15/opinion/15zagat.html
DaveRud at 12:13AM on 09/10/08
@anybody: What is your definition of hip? As Ed pointed out, it seems like the meaning of that word is up for debate.
Reading these comments suggest that a general consensus of the word "hip" in a cuisine context might result in: (authenticity) + (high quality) + (high value) + (strong aesthetic appeal) = hip.
This is how Wikipedia represents "hip." And this is a Slate meditation on the word by Jesse Sheidlower, who currently edits the OED. What else is out there? Somebody else be the research dork for a minute.
Susquehanna at 8:45AM on 09/10/08
hip? who cares? it's delicious. unfortunately, i haven't really been able to find any good chinese food here in houston, and have to load up when i go back to new york to visit.
carriebwc at 10:04AM on 09/10/08
It has been ingrained that Chinese food should be cheap (in price).
That statement is true in the way that the restaurant operators have positioned themselves. I eat in Boston's Chinatown at least three out of five days a week, everywhere from sit down dim sum to Ding Ho takeout ($4 option), and you know what?, 99% of the food outlets in Chinatown are the equivalent of grubby diners everywhere else. Would you pay top dollar to eat at dingy place with confusing menus, shoddy service and a suspect health code adherence policy? No. Do you expect the exotic at a diner? No. It's simple, casual food with no pretensions on price, where the operator is dependent on daily volume, not the overall customer Maslow satisfaction.
Can you take it upscale and trendy? Of course you can. Just look at the Golden Temple out in Brookline. Food so good that it was rumored that ecstasy was an ingredient. They run a clean operation, provide valet service, a real bar, a DJ and comfortable decor, not to mention a staff that doesn't visualize their customers as cattle. And they can charge at a price level on par with a very good steakhouse, and have been doing it for quite a while now. So it's not that Chinese food isn't hip, it's that the vast majority is sold as simple everyday fare.
There are so many things that can be improved in the Chinese food industry that the list goes ad infinitum, but if you consider the proliferation of Asian restaurants (Thai, Indian, Japanese especially), it leaves no doubt that American are basically begging for more and better choices. There is plenty of business to go around and it's up to the operator to decide which market segment to pursue.
jayfallon at 12:08PM on 09/10/08
a lot of it probably has something to do with the majority of the first chinese immigrating to america being day laborers.
also, with the end of the gold rush, a lot of chinese were out of a job. however, there are always jobs in the restaurant business.
although for a time in the us, chinese people and its culture were a novelty (see kaplan's yellowface: creating the chinese in american popular music and performance), exotic foods need to be downplayed A LOT to fit american palates.
because it's been around for so long, and because what is considered good food might scare people off - shark fin soup, sea cucumber, etc - compared to sushi, it's hard for chinese food to be hip.
mlo at 12:21PM on 09/10/08
No debate on the meaning of "hip"? Nobody cares? Just trying to respect the question asked here.
To me, "hip" generally means being savvy in some interesting type of way. It's not necessarily good or bad. It's not cheap or expensive. It's not real or fake. It's not sexy or disgusting.
In the context we're discussing, it could be described as being "in the know" about Chinese food in any way, shape or form, i.e. fusion, upscale, kitsch, take-out, regional, whatever. And what is hip is subject to personal opinion . . . because being "in the know" about take-out is good to one person and bad/uninteresting to another person.
This wasn't so simple to grasp for me. But, of course, I'm sure it's a no-brainer for some. I'm waiting for someone to say they were born hip to the hip . . . . (cracking up).
Susquehanna at 1:35PM on 09/10/08
If you are going to those restaurants to eat Chinese food, then you are obviously not going to the right places. A lot of the "hip" Chinese restaurant serve awful food because the owners realize once they get popular to the Americans, they must cater the taste of the food to the American palette.
The problem why Chinese food is not hip is not because of the food its because of the marketing and how the business is run. Chinese food has already a very low market price and now that it is established many people do not want to pay more if they already got it at a low price. Low price of food usually means the food isn't refined. Chinese people are everywhere and they build awful Chinese take out to trick stupid people everywhere. Because the food is so prevalent like hot dogs, it is never seen as something very special. Chinese culture stresses prosperity. So when Chinese people want to go to to eat, they like to see giant plates of food, not small cuts of fish on rice. Because of this Chinese food is often looked at not being refined.
skinnyhippo at 2:50PM on 09/10/08
I've been making the exact same argument about Mexican food. It's nearly impossible to find upscale restaurants in or around Chicago. I'm not even looking for high end, just something other than fajitas and enchiladas....
DJ Dedd at 2:55PM on 09/10/08
I think part of it is due to portion sizes and America's preconceived ideas of what chinese food is. Chinese restaurants typically are family style and people go in expecting, fried rice, bbq pork, Genral Tso's chicken (invented in America!) and stir fries. I think if chinese restaurants branched out into high end tasting menus and use more "chinese" ingredients like dried and fermented products as well as branch into some molecular gastronomy or modern techniques, Chinese cuisine will become elevated to hip. Recently italian cuisine has had a resurgence due to the additions of modern innovations.
Restaurant marketing also plays into it. Thai restaurants have been great at reinventing Thai cuisine into a hip atmosphere (lots of ikea/futuristic style looking restaurants).
But most of all it's education. Right now there aren't any real innovative American Chinese Chef Stars other than Ming Tsai. And and he's not really that innovative! Michelin stars people. There needs to be world calibre chinese restaurants. Also, most people don't know that the chinese food they get in the US is different from the different regional cuisines in China.
madebytam at 3:50PM on 09/10/08
Forgot to mention earlier: I've seen those original Iron Chef episodes, and I'm not so sure I want the real deal! Lots of animal parts I'm definitely NOT used to seeing on a plate. Or ever.
DJ Dedd at 4:23PM on 09/10/08
I have to agree with Cathy (Comment #2) and this is because of very direct knowledge of the different menus in Chinese restaurants. My father married a wonderful woman from China almost twelve years ago and her family owns several well known Chinese restaurants in various suburbs around Chicago. When I visit them, I always sit at the "family table" (the big round table in most mid-grade Chinese restaurants that seems to always be reserved) and eat what is prepared for the cooks and family. It is outstanding, authentic and definitely NOT on the American menu with the meal typically consisting of whole fish that is roasted or fried in a wok, incredible vegetables, dumplings, and broths along with all the seasoning sauces made from scratch from peppers you would never see on the American menu.
When I tell my dad's wife's family that if they would serve what they serve at the family table and they could not only charge more for it but would make their restaurants stand out in the sea of take out places around Chicago, they tell me that American's would never like it so why bother.
breadchick at 4:50PM on 09/10/08
"American's adventurous eaters?"
That's an elitist attitude. People said the same thing when sushi started making its presence in the 80s and now look at that. I've lived in many countries in my life and Americans by far have the most diverse set of restaurants to choose from.
The downscale aspect of Chinese restaurants is due to the restaurants not the ingrained beliefs of the eaters. If a transplant from China could get funding and open a high end Chinese restaurant in the Time Warner building and actually made some high quality food it would do unbelievably well. I personally have given up on Chinese food in this city (along with Mexican).
chaevans at 3:44PM on 09/12/08
Because wealthy white people, for the most part, love bashing all things China and love praising all things Japanese.
How many people do you think would know that China and the US were both allies in WW2? Allied against - yup, JAPAN.
mfhughes at 4:59PM on 09/12/08
chaevans: Americans may have the most diverse set of restaurants to choose from, but how much of what is offered is actually un-Americanized fare from the original cuisine? You may have restaurants representing 500 different cuisines from around the world in one place. But if they all use ketchup and cheese to make their offerings approachable to the American palate, then how much diversity is there truly? As an example, how many Chinese restaurants have you gone to in America that serve whole, steamed fish? The Chinese revere fresh fish, simply steamed as one of the greatest expressions of culinary finesse. But the average American diner would run out the door if he had to deal with a fish head gaping at him. Ditto a suckling pig head.
onedaylingers at 2:33PM on 09/13/08
I had to laugh at oneday's comments about American diners dealing with fish heads or suckling pig heads, funny but true, at least we can enjoy watching Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern eating such things, and not have to worry about confronting them when we hit the buffets LOL.
iamon02 at 8:35PM on 09/15/08
The only thing I'd add to this is that the Chinese themselves are not percieved as hip, at least not in the "aspirational lifestyle" variety. Americans want to pretend, at least for an evening, that they are bistro-going Parisians or Romans at their local trattoria, as these cultures have romantic associations. As China becomes more promenant culturally and economically I think this might change; Americans will see the Chinese lifestyle as aspirational and will become more interested in authentic Chinese cuisine.
I agree with chevans, above, about restaurant decor as a factor in Chinese cuisine's lack of hipness. Many of the good, authentic restaurants in NYC's Chinatown have all the charm of a high school cafeteria. I like eating at these restaurants, but if I want nice ambiance I'll look elsewhere.
mslaas at 4:31PM on 09/16/08