Alan Richman Doesn't Really Like Chicago Hot Dogs, Ouch
Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
GQ columnist Alan Richman hit what his Chicago hot dog-loving buddy called the dozen best franks in that hot dog-crazed town, but he didn't seem to love any. In fact, after reading his story twice, I don't think he got why Chicago residents are crazy about their tube steaks. His biggest problem: the way the hot dogs, loaded down with all the requisite Chicago toppings—chopped onions, sport peppers, tomato, pickle, and celery salt—fall apart when you bite into them.
Richman hoped to file his top five list, but couldn't even find five good enough to make the cut. He liked the Wiener's Circle, Byron's, Rockstar Dogs, and Hot Doug's. He refers to Superdawg in his story, but clearly didn't love it. In fact, he called what was delivered to his car in the famous Superdawg box, a "horror."
Ouch! Did he go to Gene and Jude's, my other favorite Chicago hot dog spot, conveniently just a few minutes from O'Hare? Fess up, Richman.
We also need our Chicago bureau chief Michael Nagrant to weigh in on this crucially important issue. And the rest of the serious eaters as well.
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18 Comments:
He's right.
They are a not so impressive mess.
peekpoke at 5:17PM on 09/17/08
I also think he's right. It's a hot dog hoagie or grinder or sub on a way too small bun.
I like hot dogs at ball games but not with all that nonsense on them.
If you want a hot sub, order a hot sub.
redfish at 5:43PM on 09/17/08
I love a good Chicago hot dog, as long as there is a proper ratio of bun to dog. At Gene and Jude's, they grill the hot dogs and top them with terrific french fries. Yum!
Ed Levine at 5:49PM on 09/17/08
I would have to respectfully disagree with the comments above and Alan Richman's opinion. For me at least, the chicago style hot dog is the very definition of what a hot dog should be (vienna beef or best's kosher dog on a S.rosen's poppy seed bun, mustard, onion, green relish, pickle, tomato, celery salt, sport peppers). Never grilled, but rather pulled out of a hot water bath. And so what if they are messy, isn't it more about taste? And they don't serve chicago style dogs at Cubs games so you can't even get a hot dog with "all that nonsense" at a ball game even if you wanted one.
misterhee at 6:20PM on 09/17/08
Outrageous. An insult, I say.
The eating of a Chicago dog is an athletic event - one of either balance or speed - but in either case you do not question the rules. You go for the gold and hope to be worthy.
murtaugh at 6:45PM on 09/17/08
I love that Richman felt the need to build up New York's hot dogs before going into his review of their loosely related cousin. Good grief.
Tip for eating a Chicago dog more easily: take the pickle spear off the sandwich and eat it separately. Much easier to handle that way.
me3dia at 7:05PM on 09/17/08
But ... but ... how could he? Misterhee--perfect description and great add on the S. Rosen's bun. Chicago dogs are best when they come from the nondescript corner place, two wrapped in paper and stuffed in a bag with greasy, thin-cut fries.
maered at 7:15PM on 09/17/08
If I lived in Chicago, I would prefer a minimalist dog like Gene & Jude's. They don't put tomatoes and a lot of other junk on it. Byron's is literally a salad on a bun. They put lettuce and cucumbers on their dogs, unlike most places in Chicago.
A guy from Chicago opened a place near me serving authentic Chicago style dogs using Vienna Beef and other ingredients shipped in from the Vienna Beef Co. It took me awhile, but I sort of aquired a taste for his dogs. The Vienna frank is milder than what we have in N.Y. and N.J. But it goes better with all of the ingredients. A Sabrett, Nathan's, Best's, or Hebrew National would overpower the other stuff and throw everything out of balance.
Superdawg uses a Sinai 48 Kosher frank, which is more well seasoned than Vienna. But it is skinless. Mr. Richman is wrong when he states that most grilled N.Y. dogs are skinless. Nathan's, Papaya King, Gray's, Katz's, and all the Papaya King knockoffs use natural casing dogs. Chicago places using Sinai 48 (Superdawg is one despite their claim of having a specially made dog) or Best Kosher are using a skinless dog. Those establishments using Vienna are split; some use a skinless version while some use a natural casing dog.
While taste is subjective and in many cases regional, I personally prefer a more well seasoned beef dog that is grilled, has a natural casing, with just mustard (preferably a spicy brown deli mustard). The focus should be on the frank and it's quality; not what you put on it. Although I can see how Chicagoans can like their style of dog, especially if they grew up with it.
hotdoglover at 8:02PM on 09/17/08
I've got to agree that Richman is onto something here, and is hitting a nerve, since I've felt the same way several times about various Chicago dogs. I love a good Chicago dog, but I've also been frustrated that way too many times instead of a good tasty combination of ingredients, I've been handed a messy, hastily-assembled conglomeration.
For every good Chicago dog I've had (which include such oddly different parts of the market as Hot Doug's and one of the older ladies at O'hare, who lovingly lines up the peppers and condiments), I've had two or three sloppy dogs that are wildly unbalanced with the toppings, and constructed so poorly that the only thing holding them together is the container. I wanted a hot dog, dammit, not a garbage plate made with hot dog ingredients!
kaszeta at 7:38AM on 09/18/08
A vote against Chicago dogs is a vote against democrazy - nay, humanity.
worldcupfever at 9:05AM on 09/18/08
I must chime in here. I live in NYC and ALWAYS prefer the hot dog with skin, grilled, tons of mustard and kraut, maybe some grilled onions, preferably in a top split bun (bun preference acquired while living in new england - it really is far superior, believe it or not).
Except in one instance: Michaels hot dogs in Highwood, IL. It is a fantastic, chicago style dog. Order the 'char dog, chicago style'. They 'char' it on a grill, which means they use high heat to give it a crust that imparts great carmelization and flavor (presumably from the millions of dogs that come before yours). I think it is a skin on dog, and they top it with good pickles (I always ask for extra on the side) and great sport peppers (extra on the side, please). I love the poppy seed bun (I wanna say top split, but cant gurantee it). No neon relish, no mealy tomato. Make sure you get cheese fries to go with it. Their cheese is melty and extremely tasty. Expecting nacho cheese I was floored the first time I tried it. It is 9AM and I wish i was there right now. It is always my first stop when visiting my gf family in the northern burbs of chicago land.
I have had other dogs in chicago, and did not like them. If you are in chicago and have a car and an afternoon, make the trip. It might even be worth taking the commuter train out there. It stops pretty close I think. If it is worth me spending my saturday going to redhook from uptown manhattan (and it certainly is, I do it), it is worth going to highwood from lincoln park or the gold coast.
If you want to make a full day of it, go to Buffos for an italian beef and/or their thin crust cheese pizza (and more cheese fries - I eat cheese fries everyday in chicago, but never in NYC). It is a mom and pop spot that is great. They were written up in Bon Appetite a few years back
jigga at 9:08AM on 09/18/08
Michael's is actually in Highland Park (and only about 1/3 mile from the Highland Park Metra train stop), but I would have to agree... it's a great dog! And the cheese fries... heaven!
michellej at 1:00PM on 09/18/08
I've never had a Chicago dog fall apart on me. Never. Just because some GQ poseur doesn't know how to eat a hot dog doesn't mean it is some kind of feat.
Garvey at 1:05PM on 09/18/08
Oh--wait a minute--Richman says he was cutting the dogs with a knife and fork. No wonder they fell apart. Loser.
Garvey at 1:08PM on 09/18/08
Chicago dogs take a while to stick, especially if you grew up on NY style or - gasp - Ball Park franks with ketchup and mustard. I think a lot of the disparaging between NYC and Chicago result from the "my __ is better than your ___" syndrome more than a true thought about each styles' merits. Besides, who wouldn't get sick of dogs after eating 12 in one day?
That said, I love Chicago dogs, though my first one didn't convince me of that fact. Still, they were strange enough that I kept coming back, and now they seem to be the perfect combination for this part of the country. Still, my first stop in NYC is usually a hot dog cart for some mustardy and oniony delights. Listen to Rodney: "can't we all just get along?" Hot dog lovers unite!
hungrymouse at 3:11PM on 09/18/08
the reason he didn't like it is because they forgot the cucumber! also, if it is going to be a beef or pork hotdog, it has to be an all beef Vienna hot dog. They are the best (I, however, no longer eat beef-do they make a chicken dog?)
misha1by at 5:08PM on 09/18/08
What's juvenile about a hot dog stand? Bolted swivel seats? Has this guy ever been to a diner?
If he cut his hot dog with a knife and a fork, he deserved to have it fall apart on him.
O_Leaozinho at 2:06PM on 09/19/08
The Chicago dog at Hot Doug's is all right, but the superior products are the various "specialty dogs" and the duck fat fries. The first time DH and I went, we had a Chicago style dog as a control and then proceeded to accompany it with a Greek dog (seasoned lamb sausage topped with feta, tapenade and skordalia), an Italian dog (chicken sausage with pesto and sun dried tomatoes topped with burrata and marinara), and the wild game of the day (I believe it was rattlesnake), along with a large order of duck fat fries. I do not believe any silverware was used in the eating process, other than maybe a spork to scrape some tapenade that got away out of the fries.
Based upon the above highly unscientific sample, I am of the view that anyone who cannot find at least one sausage product to rave about at Hot Doug's clearly needs to have their taste buds checked for proper functioning.
Mizbee at 12:59AM on 09/23/08