Why Don't Recipes Include Salt Amounts?
"Given the importance of seasoning, it's odd how often it is overlooked in recipe books," notes Bee Wilson in her Telegraph piece on specifying quantities of salt in recipes. She points out that Indian chefs tend to be precise in specifying how much salt to use in a recipe and when to add it, but other chefs will list salt or pepper without a quantity. Although this may work for accomplished chefs, "for the inexperienced cook it can be hard to judge."
My experience as an inexperienced cook lacking intuition is that not being told how much salt or pepper to use in a recipe usually results in something that tastes less than palatable. If I use too much I'll ruin my dish; if I use too little it'll taste bland. I'd rather err on the side of bland than something that tastes like a salt lick. Unfortunately, this means I cook more for sustenance than deliciousness. (On the upside, no one ever asks me to cook for them.)
How do you cook? Do you appreciate it when recipes specify how much salt to use or would you rather add what you see fit?
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34 Comments:
Except in baking, where salt controls yeast development, the amount of salt can easily be increased after cooking, at the table, to the desired taste of the individual diners. Hence the expression "season to taste".
srhcb at 8:14PM on 08/18/08
In modern times, I suspect it's at least part political correctness. You dare not encourage salt consumption lest the food police come knocking.
peekpoke at 8:32PM on 08/18/08
I add salt when cooking if it adds a physical function, for example, when sweating vegetables (salt draws moisture out of cells). For seasoning, I actually don't add any salt and pepper while cooking; I let my eaters add it at the table. Salt thresholds vary by individual; those who eat salt routinely (such as I) have a high threshold, where as those who don't eat a lot of salt have a low threshold. So, what tastes good to me may very well be too salty for someone else. Therefor, I allow people to season at the table to their own liking.
ilovebutter at 8:55PM on 08/18/08
I'm in favor of seasoning and tasting throughout the cooking process. If each stage tastes properly seasoned as you go, your final product will taste right.
Joy Manning at 9:20PM on 08/18/08
Even when a recipe specifies, I tend to ignore it. I fell like I'm especially sensitive to salt and when there is too much, it can really ruin a meal. Best to wait and taste before adding any salt!
windattack at 9:24PM on 08/18/08
My general rule of thumb is to grab a pinch and sprinkle over the surface area of what I'm cooking. I'll adjust more for depth if its a sauce pot, dutch oven, or thick cut of meat.
But taste as you go is the best way to confirm.
BirdDoggie at 9:50PM on 08/18/08
I agree with @Joy Manning. I season as I go, which lets me correct as I go.
Learning to use salt was hard, I admit. As a kid, my grandmother over-salted everything to the point that I thought it was inappropriate for food. My grandmother's mashed potatoes tasted like lumpy pretzels. Combined that with the 'health' issues sodium received and I swore it off for many years.
Like @windattack, I grew very sensitive to it.
When I learned more about it (and thanks be to Alton Brown), I changed my tune. Finding out that something tastes more like itself was part of the reason. I did a test with two halves of a tomato, one salted and one unsalted. The salted one wasn't salty, it was more tomatoey.
So now, boiling water gets salted for potatoes or pasta. Meat gets salted. Veggies get salted. Everything gets a little to fit the newest quantity and tasted. I use kosher during the cooking process and sea salt in my magnum grinder for finishes and at the table.
And the point of it all? Salt it, but never taste the salt, that's too much.
MikeSims at 9:52PM on 08/18/08
Bravo, peakpoke, I agree - don't want to be politically incorrect.
But you have to take cooking with a grain of salt.
Oy.
Nonny at 10:17PM on 08/18/08
Season at every step of the process and taste everything at every step as well. The reason why it's hard to specify how much salt to use in non-baking recipes is because your ingredients will vary greatly in their natural salt content, so it's next to impossible to determine ahead of time how much you will need until you taste it. Taste season taste season taste season.
simon at 10:18PM on 08/18/08
I always season as I go (and re-season as I add ingredients), and taste as I go as well. I don't over-salt; I guess I've developed a "feel" for it over the years (I produced my share of over-salted dishes when I was in my early teens though:-)). I don't care if salt and pepper amounts are specified in a recipe (I never follow recipes anyway as I look for ideas rather than for instructions in recipes), and if I were to write a recipe, I wouldn't be able to provide an exact amount for salt and pepper used.
I find that if the food is not seasoned when being cooked, you cannot "make up for it" by adding salt at the table, it will not be the same at all. My mother-in-law is a staunch supporter of the "everybody can salt their own food at the table" theory, and I'm sorry to say that it just doesn't work. Think about it - no matter how much salt you sprinkle on top of, say, a bland meatball, it will remain a bland meatball. With a lot of salt sprinkled over it.
brooke29 at 10:52PM on 08/18/08
growing up my mother never salted anything while cooking. she let us all do that at the table. she was a horrible cook.
the reason you salt things during the cooking, IMO, is so that when you get the finished dish, it has an enhanced flavor throughout. if you just wait and put salt on your food it tastes just like it sounds, bland food with salt ON it.
i agree that it takes practice to know how to properly season something. but its worth it in the end. It seems simple, but seperates spectacular dishes from pedestrian. if something as simple as salt can do that, im going to take the time and master it!
concreteoatmeal at 10:57PM on 08/18/08
The products that we consume were once living organisms, and, as such, they will have different levels of salt already present in them. "Season to taste" takes this into account...peace
iwannacook at 11:20PM on 08/18/08
I agree with @iwannacook and @Joy Manning, but to add to @iwannacook's point - if a recipe for say some pasta sauce calls for a can of tomatoes, unless the recipe specifies the brand of canned tomatoes (which may not be available everywhere), it's very difficult to specify something like salt. Add to that different preference levels for salt, as well as different sizes of salt crystals between brands of kosher salt (let alone the difference in amount of salt between 1 tsp of X brand kosher salt and 1 tsp of Y brand table salt), it's really almost impossible to specify.
Tasting is an important part of cooking, whether you're an amateur home cook or am experienced chef, and seasoning your food with salt is probably the most important skill you could ever learn!
w at 11:27PM on 08/18/08
I'm definitely more fond of pepper than salt...especially with creamy soups.
I use sea salt in our everyday cooking, and I agree that it's something that comes with experience and tasting. Always start with just a pinch or 2 - it's much easier to add a little more than to take away too much.
While we use very few prepared foods, canned tomatoes and beef and chicken bases always seem to have more than enough. Salt is definitely an "enhancer", but like others have said, you shouldn't actually taste the salt.
thewrighttaste at 12:36AM on 08/19/08
I brought this exact point up to a chef I worked with once! Of course he proceeded to look at me as though I was from the moon and I shut my mouth from there on out.
For the untrained, amateur cook, it can be incredibly difficult to gauge "to taste," even throughout prep. I think more advanced recipes (meant for more advanced cooks?) can use this wording, but basic recipes for beginners should be more specific.
And while we're discussing salt, I'm really excited to try all the amazing "new" salt varieties becoming available now. What does one use Jurassic salt for?? Australian pink?
lonelyanchovy at 12:58AM on 08/19/08
Even if a recipe includes an amount of salt (baking is the exception), I will add pinch by pinch and taste it a lot so it ends up exactly how I like it. When I first started cooking, I almost always under-salted everything, but with practice I figured out how much to add.
I think learning to taste the food your cooking is an incredibly important part of becoming a better cook.
cate_cooks at 1:01AM on 08/19/08
I always appreciate it when cookbooks tell you how much salt and pepper to add. You don't have to follow what they say, but if you're a new cook it will give you an idea about where to start. I am terrified of oversalting and can use a lot of guidance myself, even though I cook all the time and have been trying to get better at tasting every step of the way for a few years now.
Robin Bellinger at 7:55AM on 08/19/08
I agree with a number of comments here, esp. about how adding salt during the cooking process is different than at the table. Although salt is salt chemically, different processes yield different shapes of crystals and determines whether salt adheres to food or bounces off.
Besides preferences and conditioning to different amts of salt, there is a decided range in human sensitivity to seasoning. What I taste may be quite a bit more or less sensitive than what you taste. No cookbook could ever account for all of this, your best bet is cooking to your own or family's tastes.
Brupie at 9:25AM on 08/19/08
Season as I go.
bessfour at 9:33AM on 08/19/08
I think you should salt to taste because everyone has different concepts of what "salty" is. Thats why chefs leave it out of recipes most of the time.
gillsnthrills at 10:31AM on 08/19/08
@W: Why should salt crystal size matters? A teaspoon is a teaspoon. Either you're getting fewer crystals that are bigger or more crystals that are smaller. Size matters for other reasons, such as sprinkling salt on top of cookies or determining how long the salt will take to dissolve (smaller crystals would dissolve more quickly).
What MikeSims says reminds me of the salt section in Michael Ruhlman's The Elements of Cooking (which I'm reading now - great book). Ruhlman says that a properly salted pasta water should taste like perfectly seasoned soup.
I've never paid too much attention to salt. I salted pasta water because I was taught that it's what you do but didn't otherwise know why or question it. I'd sprinkle a pinch over what I made, but I wouldn't necessarily consider whether or not the dish really needed it. Now I'm trying to be more conscious about it and ask myself whether the dish needs salt, whether or not it's a dish that I usually add salt to. Also, I've been using fleur de sel more often recently than iodized salt. It tastes better and gives something extra to the dish. For a long time I've been aware that salt enhances the taste of food and tastes especially good with sweet things so I keep that in mind.
Perhaps recipes should say things such as "1 tsp of salt or more, to taste" or "Start with 1 tsp of salt. Add more until it tastes like [insert simile/flavour/dish here]", or maybe cookbooks for beginners should include such notes in the introduction to the book.
CanadianFoodieGirl at 11:18AM on 08/19/08
@CanadianFoodie: Actually, a teaspoon is not teaspoon when it comes to the size of the ingredients. In the same way that "1 cup green beans, chopped" is not the same as "1 cup chopped green beans". Smaller things pack together more tightly, more efficiently. So a teaspoon of fine salt will weigh more (and contain more sodium) than a teaspoon of coarser salt.
Dee at 12:46PM on 08/19/08
Except for baking (or brining), I'd rather just do it my own way. That said, when a recipe specifies, I'll usually follow its lead, assuming I trust the source (Ina Garten is one example - she and I seem to have similar seasoning preferences).
I think the point is that it's all really a matter of taste at heart, so unless there's a chemical reaction at stake, I go with what feels right, and adjust at the end.
One note - if a cookbook does list salt quantities, it's really important to read the introduction or notes to find out what kind of salt they're using. A teaspoon of kosher salt does not equal a teaspoon of iodized salt.
MegB at 12:49PM on 08/19/08
One of the more useful cooking tips I ever got was to add salt (and pepper, if needed) at each step of the process, rather than all at once at the beginning or the end. I think it helps make sure each element of a dish is properly seasoned.
misha at 1:55PM on 08/19/08
In a forum deidcated to 'serious foodies' I am amazed that so many people dont realize that recipes are not blueprints... they're guidlines. You probably should be reading Rachel Ray's site if your're too timid to make a judgement call on something as basic as seasoning...
Add salt - taste - ask yourself, "is this better than before?" if yes then add some more - repeat until the answer is 'no' then stop.
Chefhorn at 2:38PM on 08/19/08
Heat a 1/8 inch thick, 99.9% pure aluminium ,10 inch saute pan to percisly 412F (use an infered surface probe calibrated to your exact elevation for accurate results) next measure the sugar content of the tomotes. Using the following excell spreadsheet, find the coorespnding cell that maches the brix content and add exactly the amount of salt caled for. make sure the the salt has less than 2% dissolved minerals...
THATS why you specific salt in recipes, because the factos that govern it's usage are so variable that it's impossible to specify..
Chefhorn at 3:00PM on 08/19/08
deidcated
guidlines
your're
aluminium
percisly
infered
tomotes
excell
coorespnding
maches
caled
factos
@Chefhorn -- A quick glance of those two posts reveals at least 12 misspellings of simple, common words. Perhaps before you criticize others with such smart-ass comments, you should at least how to spell above a 4th grade level.
Now excuz me, my chikon pot pye is redy to eet. Hav a nize daay.
FastFoodCritic at 7:24PM on 08/19/08
Ha ha ha ha ha, Chefhorn!
But you forgot to mention that each of the people's tongues who will be tasting the final dish have to be individually measured to be sure the tastebuds are in the right places and extant then they must be swabbed and tested by the CSI Team for chemical sensitivities!
Only then can the correct salting process of the dish continue.
foodvox at 7:30PM on 08/19/08
You guys are brutal.
Peace, love and salty.
Nonny at 9:38PM on 08/19/08
Hey FastFoodCritic - let me see you 1 thumb a response via a blackberry on a bumpy subway while holding a venti latte and see if you fare better!
Chefhorn at 10:41AM on 08/20/08
was there any salt in the venti latte?
onepercent99 at 12:39PM on 08/20/08
Hey Chefhorn - I don't use a blackberry, there are no subways where I live, and both my thumbs were lost in a horrible 'vagina dentata' incident years ago.
But it does sound like a challenge to type that way.
FastFoodCritic at 5:38PM on 08/20/08
In Maine we have an old adage that Lobster should be cooked in water that is as salty as the sea. In fact, when we're down on the beach, the water that fills the pots is indeed from the Atlantic itself. I learned when I moved to Oregon that the same holds true for Crab.
When I lived in Brooklyn way back when, I had the luxury of being invited at least once a week to join her quite large family for dinner. Pasta was always served. She explained to me one night that the reason her pasta was so good was that the water she boiled it in was as salty as the mediterranean.
But for other dishes, I have to agree with the majority that taste as you go works best. That said, everything benefits from some salt prior to service. It helps to bring out all the natural flavors.
MrMouse at 10:16PM on 08/20/08
Oh dear! Salt can be tricky for a new cook, in all the ways others have mentioned. I hope I can add a little :)
When a recipe calls for "salt to taste" it means taste it first, then if you think a little salt would help, add some, "because most people who have tasted this recipe like a bit of salt with it."
I break "rules" all the time, mostly regarding seasoning; I encourage new cooks to experiment, too--except in baking where precise measurements are much more important. As I eat a lot of raw foods, it's easy for me to pick up a cucumber, tomato, radish, celery stalk, lemon, orange, cantaloupe or watermelon and just take a bite. From there I can choose salt, pepper, vinegar, cheese, etc. or nothing at all. But my taste preferences will likely be different from yours. Say I'm making chicken broth: I add a lot of onions and celery, plus lemon juice--those nearly negate the need for salt.
Salt is one of my favorite seasonings (and crucial in preserving), but because I like the look, feel and taste of the expensive or imported ones (Maldon is my most affordable), I save it for garnish and wouldn't (i.e., can't afford to) put it in pasta water. In fact, I don't always put salt in pasta water, and maybe I should, but I got on a low salt kick and perhaps I just got lazy. The few times I cook pasta it's almost always in leftover veggie water, or with a bouillon cube (which is mostly salt), or some variety of seaweed.
By switching to a larger grain/flake size, I've found I use less salt--a goal one should consider, especially if you eat processed foods and/or don't read labels. If you've been eating "fast foods," you probably have developed a love for salt, but for the wrong reasons. Take French fries--ever tried oven fries? Slice (leave the peel on), toss with olive oil, a pinch or two or three of coarse salt and freshly ground pepper (add rosemary, yum!); cook until the texture appeals to you. Serve with dips or eat as is. They don't become nasty overnight like fast food fries do.
Depending on the soil, fertilizers, water conditions, etc., my celery may taste very different from my neighbor's. I'm no nutritionist, but excess sodium in many American's diets can cause health problems, as can sugar, fat, and other stuff that is OK in smaller doses, but devastating in larger amounts.
I hope these comments give new cooks some confidence :)
RawFoodie at 12:54AM on 08/21/08