Serious Grape: The Next Big Grape
Every other week, Deb Harkness of Good Wine Under $20 joins us to talk some Serious Grape. Here's the latest.
Before Sideways, did you buy lots of Pinot Noir? Or did it take the film and its famous line about Merlot to get you off the ubiquitous red wine of the 1990s in favor of something a bit lighter on its feet?
Wine grapes have as many promising upswings and dismal downward trends as your stock portfolio. Whenever two or more wine enthusiasts are gathered in a room, sometime after the second glass of wine the conversation inevitably turns to crystal ball gazing and trying to figure out what the next big grape will be. Which grape will capture the public imagination like Pinot Noir?
There is a surprising amount of consensus when it comes to the next big red. Most of us think it will be Petite Sirah.
Don’t let the name fool you. This is a big tannic grape variety that is actually a French cross between Syrah and Peloursin. It never bowled anyone over in its native country, where it produced very low yields, but give it some hot California sunshine and you have a wine that tastes like a very-berry Zinfandel that walked through a tannic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard with a dark chocolate bar clutched in its fist.
Drinkable when young, wines made from Petite Sirah have the potential to age beautifully for ten years and more. Some of them are silky, others have a heart of darkness at the core. They pair with the same rich and robust foods that you would serve with a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Zinfandel, yet have expressive blackbery, coffee, and cocoa flavors that are unlike anything else. Some of my favorite Petite Sirahs made in this country come from Enkidu, Four Vines, Judd’s Hill, Michael-David, and Twisted Oak. If you visit these sites you will see that winemakers dedicated to Petite Sirah are a bunch of mavericks, who love thinking outside the box and pushing the envelope.
These excellent, age-worthy Petite Sirahs have suggested retail prices of $24 to $35. While they aren’t the cheapest red wines in the market, they are priced well below Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Sauvignons of comparable quality. That’s because the buzz is still building. If you like your reds big and have the space to store a few bottles and drink them over the next decade at holiday dinners and other special events, I think you’ll find that the wine in your stash will deliver far more than you paid for it in flavor and enjoyment.
The Next Big White?
While Petite Sirah is poised for a leading role as the next big red, what about white grapes? That’s a lot harder to predict. Chardonnay has been the dominant white grape variety for decades, and though U.S. drinkers have flirted with Pinot Grigio (ah, the 90s!), and are now dabbling in Riesling, I’m not sure either will emerge as America’s new favorite white. And the likeliest alternatives—Viognier and Albariño—still have a ways to go if they are going to take a star turn. Both have the body and style to draw wine drinkers’ attention.
But at a time when most Chardonnay drinkers are turning to unoaked versions because they’re tired of their wine tasting like toothpicks, Viognier producers are putting their juice in barrels to make them taste more like Chardonnay. This doesn't seem like the right decision from where I stand. And we’re still in the earliest days of Albariño production here in the U.S. so we’re not sure what the grape is going to be able to do over here—although recent bottles from Bonny Doon and Bokisch suggest that there may be some tasty surprises in store.
If you want to get in on Petite Sirah before the stampede starts and the prices rise, check out the wines mentioned above and visit the Petite Sirah advocacy site, P.S. I Love You to find out more about the grape and for a complete list of member wineries who grow the grape in the United States. If you have your own predictions for the next big grape—red or white—leave them in the comments. We’ll check back in a year or so to see how our predictions are faring.
View other entries from Serious Grape.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
20 Comments:
For a lot of people, Petite Sirah will be a bit of a leap from their comfort zone. It's big, brassy, almost the anti-Pinot Noir. But I think you're right--Petite Sirah has all the signs of being the Next Big Thing.
You're spot on about Viognier. I find it's a great fit between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which should appeal to fans of both of those grapes. Good calls!
Bill Wilson
Wine For Newbies
WineForNewbies at 1:25PM on 08/15/08
Great article, I'll have to check them out.
Personal experience from the wine bars in NYC, Chardonnay still dominates the whites, but there is some migration to some northern Italian grapes such as Gavi and Arneis.
BirdDoggie at 1:26PM on 08/15/08
I would disagree on Petite Sirah being the next big thing. I don't think people are looking for another big, bold grape. I think Tempranillo may be better poised grab the public's attention. It is at least familiar to more people who have had Spanish wines, but plenty of California producers have started to use it.
For white wine, I would choose Albarino. I know locally, Albarino is been a big seller in the local wine stores. They are also stocking many more producers of Albarino.
RichardA at 1:34PM on 08/15/08
I am less than thrilled by the current obsession with Pinot Noir. Even in the best Burgundies, I find it too light and fruity. Recently I have been very happily surprised by straight Cabernet Franc, and it's Spanish descendant Mencia. I also love some pure Zinfandels. Syrah on its own, other than the great Hermitage bottles, doesn't do it for me. Overall though, I'm a blended wine fan. Be it from Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone, California, Spain or from South America. Finding the next big trendy single varietal red wines seems to me to be mostly an American obsession.
As for whites, Grüner Veltliner and Sauvignon Blanc are my favorites. And I'm really enjoying the rosés being produced with non-traditional grapes. This is how I've really enjoyed Pinot Noir the most. Kamen Estates makes a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé that is to die for but is next to impossible to find.
simon at 1:35PM on 08/15/08
mmm...
This article REALLY makes me wish my Friday evening would come faster!
hungrychristel at 1:36PM on 08/15/08
The next big white is not a grape, it's a grain. Sake has been growing in the US and is about to reach critical mass. One particular subcategory, sparkling sake, has huge potential on restaurant menus, since it comes in little one (generous) serving bottles.
dhonig at 1:44PM on 08/15/08
Mmmm, sparkling sake sounds great. Gonna have to try that, tonight perhaps.
simon at 1:49PM on 08/15/08
My favorite wine description ever: "A wine that tastes like a very-berry Zinfandel that walked through a tannic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard with a dark chocolate bar clutched in its fist."
I respectfully request that the flavor profiles of all wines be personified from this point forward. Much obliged.
ellis at 2:23PM on 08/15/08
Great Pinot Picks - I have tried Four Vines, Twisted oak and Micheal David. I just had a bottle of Omaka Springs Pinot and it was amazing!! That is a must try.
Wheresmydamnanswer at 3:06PM on 08/15/08
@ellis ~ "A wine that tastes like a very-berry Zinfandel that walked through a tannic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard with a dark chocolate bar clutched in its fist."
I must memorize that description and blow my wine expert friends away. If you listen carefully, you'll hear their jaws hit the floor. 8-D
PerkyMac at 3:13PM on 08/15/08
nero d'avola for red and ribolla gialla for white. you can quote me on that.
internet at 3:16PM on 08/15/08
I'll have to try the Petite Syrah. I was on the Pinot Noir bandwagon was early as 1997. Lately I've been enjoying the various blended reds available that are comprised of shiraz and/or grenache in combination with other grapes (such as mouvedre).
For whites I really like New World sauvignon blancs. I like their juiciness and they go great with spicy foods (which I eat a lot of). But, I also like chenin blanc and viognier, especially on a hot summer afternoon with a picnic lunch!
Amandarama at 4:04PM on 08/15/08
I'm with simon regarding Gruner Veltliner - so refreshing in the summer. But Viognier is quite popular here. Spanish reds are my vote for the next big thing.
PeanutButter at 5:39PM on 08/15/08
Great picks from all of you. For what it's worth, I think Tempranillo is the next next big red, perhaps followed by Cab Franc. I love the idea of sake for the white. I think the problem with ribolla, gruner, and arneis is availability here in the US. Amandarama and Simon will like Petite Sirah, based on what they are enjoying now. And if Sauvignon Blanc was going to do it, I figure it would have by now--but I'd be happy to be proven wrong.
Ellis, you've discovered one of my quirks: wine personifications. Not all my reviews have them, but a lot do. One day you'll get sick of them--then I'll switch to music or something. But I'm glad you liked it.
Keep the predictions coming!
Deb Harkness at 7:22PM on 08/15/08
I wonder about the future of Malbec. It seems every time I bring a few bottles to a party or dinner, the Malbec is everyone's favorite, particularly among those who aren't wine-nerds. Its flashy and accessible with mostly solid QPR to boot.
AbacusFinch at 8:01PM on 08/15/08
For a new white, I have to go with vinho verde. Excellent summer whine, very light and refreshing. As far as reds go, a good high altitude malbec is tops in my book.
jboylan at 12:01AM on 08/17/08
I second Mr. AbacusFinch. Malbec is easy to pronounce, and has that berry-lushness that stands between merlot and pinot noir, without merlot's thick plainness or pinot's disappointing pale color and acidity. Petite sirah appeals to men once they learn it's tougher and brawnier than a cabernet, but men don't drive wine purchases (I don't think).
The next white? I'm guessing something that won't have chardonnay's or pinot grigio's soft plainness (this is a word I find so often useful with wine). I suggest sauvignon blanc.
mrslucas at 10:58AM on 08/18/08
I've got my money on Grenache for the next big red. Although Malbec would easily be my second choice...
jennasuz at 12:57PM on 08/18/08
i see Rose coming on strong. seriously. made from nice italian reds. perfecto!
mcc32 at 1:27PM on 08/18/08
Malbecs from Argentina can be wonderful and affordable, but its chief competitor for new grape to me is Carmenere from Chile - had a stunning version over the weekend that most would have guessed to be pinot noir, yet it had much more structure and cost only $18.
Albarino is a strong contender for white, yet my personal tastebud favorite would be roussanne. Gruner Veltliner would be a third choice.
Grigio and S/Blanc had their chances yet did not get it done.
carter at 3:25PM on 08/18/08