An Open Letter to Alice Waters and the Good Folks at Slow Food Nation
Dear Slow Fooders,
The Slow Food Nation event is upon us this weekend in San Francisco, and I'm feeling a little forlorn that I'm not out there. The organizers have put together what looks like an impressive set of events, with interesting panels, compelling speakers, and lots of seriously delicious food.
Buying local, sustainably raised food is laudable but not enough. Photograph: NatalieMaynor on Flickr
We all love the idea of the Slow Food movement and what it stands for, namely supporting sustainable, artisanal food. All serious eaters are down with that notion.
But merely believing in Slow Food as a cause is in and of itself not enough. I have always found the Slow Food movement here in the U.S. to be more about nonspecific soaring rhetoric and less about specific actions we can all take that actually further the cause of slow food in America. Eating delicious, sustainable, artisanal foods and calling attention to those foods is laudable, but it is not enough.
Because right now in America there are hundreds of artisanal food purveyors under siege, threatened by the mushrooming homogeneity of our food culture and the march of "progress."
In writing about the food culture in America over the last 20 years, first in New York and then across the country, I have seen an alarming trend that does not bode well for the Slow Food movement or for serious eaters everywhere. Irreplaceable American artisanal food purveyors, some more than a hundred years old, are closing down their shops and restaurants. Some close because they haven't figured out a way to adapt to contemporary taste. Others close because of financial pressures. Still others close because their owners are tired and getting old and they either don't want their sons and daughters to work with their hands for such long hours, or that next generation has no interest in doing so. Whatever the reason, the result is fewer food shops making food the traditional, artisanal way, by hand, the slow food way.
Where is this happening and to whom? It's happening everywhere around the country. Sausage makers, bread bakers, mozzarella cheese makers, tamale makers, pit masters, fish fryers. All are under siege everywhere there are slow food traditions. I have detailed these folks' travails in books, magazine and newspaper articles, and now blog posts over the last 16 years. Others have, too. The fantastic work being done by the Southern Foodways Alliance in this area cannot be lauded enough. Think about the phenomenal way it marshalled the forces behind the Slow Food sentiment to reopen Willie Mae's Scotch House after Katrina. Southern Foodways is not alone. Food writers on blogs and websites, at major newspapers, and at glossy food magazines, have also attempted to make people to pay attention to this frightening attrition taking place at warp speed.
And yet for some reason, the Slow Food movement has not adopted this issue as its own. It would be an issue in which it could take concrete actions to preserve these American food traditions. Wouldn't it wonderful if Slow Food decided to take concrete actions to save local slow food businesses? The organization would immeasurably enrich the lives of so many American artisanal food makers that are in dire jeopardy of disappearing. And the result would be lots of seriously delicious food for all of us and, more important, the preservation and perpetuation of so many of our invaluable food traditions.
Rosa Morrone, in her bakery, which closed last year. Photograph from morronebakery.com
Just in the last few months New York has lost a fine Italian bread bakery, Morrone's (which, by the way, made the best onion rolls on the planet). The Morrone family just closed up shop, though they continue to live above the store. Their gorgeous ovens remain intact, and I am sure they would love to see fresh, hot, crusty bread coming out of them in the near future, baked by family members working with established younger artisanal bread bakers like Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery or Amy Scherber of Amy's Bread, and an army of interns from cooking and baking schools.
Let's take action before it's too late. We are losing too many artisanal food purveyors in this country, and it is unnecessary. Together, all of us, slow fooders and serious eaters everywhere, can make a difference.
I am sorry to be missing the event in San Francisco this weekend. But I'm even sorrier that so many honest food purveyors in America are being threatened with extinction.
Have a good time in San Francisco, slow fooders. Eat a perfect peach for us. We'll be there in spirit. Between bites and speeches, think about how your cause might actually become a movement. Together we can preserve, maintain, and even move forward so many delicious food traditions—if only we put our money and our minds where our mouths and stomachs are.
Sincerely,
Your friends at Serious Eats
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17 Comments:
Hear, hear!
I've always perceived the slow food movement in North-America as an elitist group of privileged white people with very selfish interests and that's why I've never been interested in it. I do agree with most of the principles of the movement, but I just can't adhere to it. I'd rather work towards more good food for more people than work for super-awesome food for the happy few.
SqueezeBottle at 10:25AM on 08/29/08
I could not agree more. Tell me what would be more effective at growing the Slow Food Movement: a big organic food party in San Francisco where attendees can yet-again bow at the feet of Alice Waters and, not to mention, that will get drowned out in the news by a big-arse storm about to hit New Orleans, a presidential candidate about to announce his V.P. pick, and another who just came off a historic speech. OR taking all of the money (not to mention time) put into that party and, instead, using it in the form of business loans to small, artisan bakers who use ingredients from local farms, grants to help farm markets with marketing and other services, or for young farmers starting organic farms to help get them through those first few years.
I could think of about 20 more better ways to use that money and effort to help promote slow food on the local level, where you are most likely to get the greatest bang for the buck. Because that help is not going to arrive any way else. In Pa., for example, the Governor's office actually had the temerity earlier this year to crow about giving a whopping $75,000 to help farm markets across the ENTIRE state with things like marketing, buying equipment, etc. Yet the city of Pittsburgh -- which is smack in the middle of a whole host of small farms within 50-60 miles that produce beautiful organic produce, grass-fed and pastured meats, etc. -- is spending $400 million on a tunnel that will go a few hundred yards under the river from one pathetic tourist destination to the sporting stadiums. Talk about your priorities.
I'm thankful for Slow Food Pittsburgh, because it does a great job of supporting and promoting local farmers and purveyors of artisan foods. But the parent organization needs to reconsider its priorities and get back to the grassroots.
Fillippelli the Cook at 10:41AM on 08/29/08
I agree with this post and with the comments. I live in San Francisco and many of the events this weekend are ridiculously expensive, and therefore only available to those with disposable income. My biggest beef with Slow Food is that they seem to have no interest in expanding the movement to reach diverse communities, specifically low income communities. I have found that Slow Food has only reached the wealthy communities here, who honestly, do not need any more resources when it comes to choosing and buying local foods. I also know that many of the communities whom Slow Food currently ignores would be open and receptive to Slow Food practices. When I first moved to San Francisco, I tried to contact Slow Food about this issue, and I offered my services as an unpaid intern expressing my interest in working on this issue and figuring out ways to expand the Slow Food movement. I received no response.
banana at 11:06AM on 08/29/08
This is all good and welcome advice as Slow Food has its sort of coming-out party in America. For all the merits of this movement--I helped launch the chapter on the East End of Long Island--Slow Food has had an ongoing challenge of reaching into new communities, and reaching more deeply into our everyday lives.
Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini once told me that the first challenge was reaching beyond Italy into the rest of Europe, then beyond Europe into America. His dream, he said, was reaching Africa, Asia and Latin America, where most of the world's food diversity and food culture still remains.
Still it's a positive sign for our collective culinary consciousness that Slow Food Nation is happening. And even those who can't be there can be reminded to get to know the folks in our food community and enjoy their wares to keep them in business.
Brian Halweil at 11:43AM on 08/29/08
@Ed
Your understanding of "slow food" is certainly different than mine.
Slow food stands for "good, clean and fair food."
not "supporting sustainable, artisanal food."
From the Slow Food web site, the organization was created "to counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world."
A bakery closing in New York will have little, if any, effect on the slow food movement; you can follow the slow food philosophy without ever setting foot in a restaurant or bakery.
Your post starts out talking about slow food, but the main theme is American artisanal food makers. You can certainly have slow food without the latter.
Don Luis at 11:52AM on 08/29/08
"You can certainly have slow food without [American artisanal food makers.]
I think the point Ed is trying to make is that Slow Food's scope SHOULD include promoting and protecting all local artisanal makers, wherever they may be. Even here in America.
simon at 12:52PM on 08/29/08
As a Slow Food member in the Charlotte, NC region for the past three years we've been tackling a lot of challenges with 100% volunteerism. We do what we can but it's hard work especially with a still very young organization.
Slow Food first and foremost has been an educator. Be glad that some small portion of the population is paying attention to the food crisis and is using the plate as a window into the problems and searching for solutions. Those with means may have helped bring the movement into the States years ago but we have a predominance of educators in our membership.
If you follow Alice Waters at all you know of the edible schoolyard initiatives. All over our state we have helped foster those. In our local convivia we've started a pilot project in lower income educated areas to bring the garden into the school and hopefully we can build a replicate-able program from it. Again, 100% volunteer efforts. I wish we were the Sierra Club or some other large body of lobby intent that could pay for more regional directors to help with coordination and sustain all the free passion that is utilized.
We've been working against the elitist mentality since inception. All you can do is work on bringing in new members, meet, cull projects people are passionate about, and deploy. Make new connections with other like minded groups, and flex your message. Are there expensive food gatherings, you bet. It's how we fund everything. You have another good idea? Let's say we recycle those with means to those without, but don't think it's a lot of rich snobs just lolly-gagging. Everything has a means to an ends and ours brings about a lot of branding, understanding, and vision to those who may have never had it before.
We are at the beginning of a long road and we all need to do our part to help. Which in our area, I don't care if you are a member or not, just come play a role, help help help. Drop your dogma and roll those sleeves up!
-andy | http://slowfoodcharlotte.org
ciordia9 at 1:31PM on 08/29/08
To counter Banana's point, many of the events are priced very reasonably, like at about $10 a ticket. A few big dinners are quite expensive, but then they are fundraisers, and they are dinners, so you expect them to be expensive. I'm actually quite impressed with the breadth and accessibility of the events this weekend. Unfortunately for me, almost all of them are sold out, so I will not be driving in from Sacramento to attend.
Elise Bauer at 2:09PM on 08/29/08
Don Luis, your comment, IMO, is misguided, in that my experience has been that, by and large, it's the small food artisans that rely most heavily on "good, clean, and fair" food. The fact is that many people still don't have time to cook, to plant gardens, to make "slow food" an integral part of their life, but there is a small but growing bunch, even those who are not among the elite, who will support independent restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, etc. who they know source their food from farms and purveyors who do represent what slow food is all about. The two - the artisan baker and the movement to get people to learn more about where their food comes from and how it is produced -- are often inextricably linked.
ciordia9 makes some excellent points, but to me, it seems like Slow Food seems to rely very heavily on high-end events to bring in resources. I realize that this is just the beginning of a movement, but once you get that elitist tag, it's hard to shake.
Fillippelli the Cook at 3:33PM on 08/29/08
@Fillppelli
It would not be the first time my comment was misguided.
Speaking of misguided:
"The two - the artisan baker and the movement to get people to learn more about where their food comes from and how it is produced -- are often inextricably linked."
You can't really think knowing about where your food comes from and access to a commercial bakery are "inextricably linked"?
I live in the central mountain region of Puerto Rico. We don't have "independent restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, etc.". We grow much of our own food, and we share what we can't use with family and neighbors. They do the same. We also cook 95% of the food we eat at home.
What we do buy, we try to put back into the local economy. We only buy Puerto Rican beef, chicken, pork, and coffee.
That, to me, is more about slow food than picking up a nice rye bread in Manhatan (although I miss them dearly).
I simply don't accept the argument "we don't have time to produce our own slow food, so we buy it already prepared".
One last point (promise): I have nothing against artsan food producers. I love them. The good ones are very good at what they do.
Don Luis at 4:29PM on 08/29/08
Thanks for writing this Ed, many of us have been saying & thinking the same thing for awhile now.
Kim @ apizza scholls
Kim Nyland at 5:37PM on 08/29/08
The whole concept and conversation bores me.
I'm not saying that's neccesarily bad. So do Olympics.
srhcb at 9:12PM on 08/29/08
Ed, I hope SFN does inspire more folks to seek out and support slow food businesses, whether local or national or international at their core. I would add two other challenges to the list. From the folks I've spoken to - whether farmers/ranchers or the folks who run shops like Marone's - one of the biggest problems is the distribution system (or lack thereof) to support smaller, call it niche, operations. Many refer to it as "Sysco Disease." The other is awareness or maybe in more classic real estate terms, poor location.
OliverRanch at 10:22PM on 08/29/08
i am going to the charcuterie workshop. it's suppose to among other things address how it help to save a family business. i really wanted to go to the workshop about throwing a four course dinner for four for under 50 dollars. there are a lot of points that ed talks about that are very valid and i am interested to see how slow food addresses them. i'll report back on sunday!
evilchefmom at 1:42AM on 08/30/08
I am once again knocked out by the level of discourse on this thread. Andy in Charlotte, it sounds like your Slow Food chapter is doing great work, as I'm sure most if not all of the local chapters are doing. One of the points I was trying to make is that Slow Food needs to really dig into food communities all over the country and try to perpetuate local food traditions, even if they involve bakeries or pizzerias not using organic flour or barbecue joints not using heritage pigs. Many a pitmaster I know is scared of scaring off his or her regular customer base by raising the price of a barbecue sandwich a dollar (or even less) to pay for the more expensive designer pork. Do we penalize them for that or should we just acknowledge that they're trying to do the right thing and cook food the "slow" way.
Ed Levine at 3:13PM on 08/30/08
I am all for the so called "slow food movement". I have attended an event or two. I applaud you folks out there who are sticking your foot in the door and saying " This is the way food is supposed to be". I was born and raised in Nebraska. 99 % of the food we ate was local. We had so many tomatoes, corn and zucchini on our kitchen counter, I can't tell you! Not mention the peaches, cherries, mullberries...Oh, and we fished for trout not too far from my house! Our neighbors had there share of extra food, too. Fresh eggs, watermellon, milk, even a side of beef once in awhile. ;) And we all shared it. I love that concept. Now, I live in California and continue to grow as much "real" food as I can in my garden. I am blessed! But others, not so much. Our world's population has increased dramatically. Because of that, land, which we must have to grow nutrient rich foods has become sacred. The farmer who truly care about the product he or she is putting out is so very important! to all of us. Now and in the future.
V in CA at 8:04PM on 08/31/08
I find a lot of the anti-Slow Food rhetoric cranky and overwrought. We risk wasting a lot of energy by being too sloppy and arbitrary in identifying who our opponents are supposed to be. Slow Food is not against any of the things the commenters here (and Ed) are proponents of; on the contrary, it's vociferously in favor of them. Even without being a member, I can tell you that the long-term aim of the outfit is not just to swell its own membership rolls--the world isn't going to become a better place simply because a lot of people join a particular organization. What it's about is ideas, values, standards, all of which are stridently, pervasively democratic. "Elitist," "effete," and such labels--which get so facilely applied to Slow Food--are generally not terms that come to mind when one is talking about such folks as Wendell Berry, Vandana Shiva, Michael Pollan, and Winona LaDuke. And yet those very people are Slow Food's heroes, all present at the San Francisco event! My plea is, please don't conjure up enemies and animosities where they simply don't exist and have no reason to. There's way too much work to do!
Barry Foy at 11:49PM on 09/01/08