Are we surprised that celebrity chefs aren't dutifully spending sweaty nights in their restaurant kitchens? The Telegraph investigates the presence of celebrity chefs in their restaurants' kitchens and bemoans, "celebrity chefs feel no compunction charging us top rates for the work of an underling." They liken absentee chefs to a tribute band playing "as stand-ins for the Rolling Stones."
The Telegraph set out to discover which rock star chefs might be found yielding a knife or stirring a sauce. The verdict: none. Jamie Oliver doesn't actually cook at Jamie's Italian in Oxford; Heston Blumenthal is nowhere to be found at his Berkshire spot, Fat Duck; and Gordon Ramsay's job description at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay entails overseeing the menu and visiting "occasionally."
We've asked before, are chef brands inherently evil? Is there an implied promise that a restaurant with a big name chef will serve food that has passed through those celebrity hands? Or do we understand that Gordon Ramsay is more likely sporting chef's whites for a photo opportunity than for a night overseeing the hot line?