Celebrity Chefs Are Everywhere But in Their Kitchens
Are we surprised that celebrity chefs aren't dutifully spending sweaty nights in their restaurant kitchens? The Telegraph investigates the presence of celebrity chefs in their restaurants' kitchens and bemoans, "celebrity chefs feel no compunction charging us top rates for the work of an underling." They liken absentee chefs to a tribute band playing "as stand-ins for the Rolling Stones."
The Telegraph set out to discover which rock star chefs might be found yielding a knife or stirring a sauce. The verdict: none. Jamie Oliver doesn't actually cook at Jamie's Italian in Oxford; Heston Blumenthal is nowhere to be found at his Berkshire spot, Fat Duck; and Gordon Ramsay's job description at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay entails overseeing the menu and visiting "occasionally."
We've asked before, are chef brands inherently evil? Is there an implied promise that a restaurant with a big name chef will serve food that has passed through those celebrity hands? Or do we understand that Gordon Ramsay is more likely sporting chef's whites for a photo opportunity than for a night overseeing the hot line?
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17 Comments:
I never expect the celebrity chef to be there but what I do expect is there style and their touch on the food. They got to be at the top because they are excellent at their craft and have developed a style and know how to delegate their talent.
Cheers,
Angela
WineUnleashed.com
WineUnleashed at 3:10PM on 08/07/08
I guess you guys nailed it, it'll be like going to a stones concert and watching some guys doing stones music....count me out, thats why I'll never set foot into one of those places unless the chef is doing the cooking and the overseeing...
Markbb at 3:30PM on 08/07/08
I've wondered the same thing Hannah;
And I must agree with Angela.
The other variables I might ask are:
Are they continuing their culinary education? Are they cooking at home?
They're still teaching the media's audience, right?
Because the way I see it, they're busy promoting themselves!
And they most likely deserve it and probably worked very hard to be where they're at today.
hungrychristel at 3:41PM on 08/07/08
Wasn't it Tony Bourdain who spoke about this not too long ago? I think it makes sense to me. Great chefs- no matter how great they are, don't want to spend the rest of their lives working like a dog in a hot kitchen day in and day out. I don't see anything wrong with chefs trying to make a go of earning a living off their reputation. And in many cases, they are taking the time to try and make a difference and educate people about nutrition and food.
ErikaWaz at 3:48PM on 08/07/08
What this is overlooked is the 'Celebrity' chefs normally do not cook as 'Executive' chefs long before they become famous or a brand. If the celebrity chefs help create the menu and educate the line cooks on technique and execution, I'm okay with them not being in the kitchen and someone else doing quality control.
What's more troubling are the celebrity chef restaurants that are simply not that good. I can list a handful in NYC that are overrated, overpriced, and simply money machines (Actually, I don't need to name them, Tony Bourdain has already called them out numerous times!). Why? because people who don't know better rave about the food and make it a scene.
BirdDoggie at 4:31PM on 08/07/08
I do take one issue with the summary. They could neither confirm nor deny that Heston would be cooking at The Fat Duck. Unlike the others, he does not have an empire of restaurants, so I would expect to find him around the kitchen.
arbeck at 4:38PM on 08/07/08
@arbeck...The Telegraph researchers couldn't get through to the Fat Duck, hence my conjecture that Heston was "nowhere to be found." Maybe you're right and he is around his kitchen; that would be nice!
Hannah Howard at 4:53PM on 08/07/08
The chef's role is to design the menu, cook it up a few times to make sure everything's good and then let the cooks prepare the food in the restaurant. I went to Emeril's once in New Orleans when Emeril was actually there, and all he did was look at each dish to make sure it was okay and apply garnish (Essence?). Diners eat the chef's food, it just wasn't personally cooked by them. I'm fine with this- it's not like Emeril can boil water, or even roast a chicken, any better than a highly trained line cook.
DanielJ at 4:54PM on 08/07/08
Bobby Flay's working in his restaurant "whenever he can," which I hear is a lot.
suburbangourmet at 4:57PM on 08/07/08
Unless things have changed, Rick Bayless is at his restaurant more often than not.
DJ Dedd at 5:19PM on 08/07/08
I agree with Angela but understand where Mark is coming from, though I disagree. Christel makes a good point about their culinary education and the path that their careers have taken.
I don't think that the implied promise exists once a chef becomes a "celebrity", whatever that means. There are cookbook tours and food show tapings and whatever else they do. I wonder if the chefs tend to miss working in the kitchen while they're off fulfilling the contractual obligations of a celebrity chef.
CanadianFoodieGirl at 8:35PM on 08/07/08
Silly newspaper. Isn't it a bit like expecting Steve Jobs to personally assemble your laptop? As long as the vision and quality are there, it doesn't matter who does the actual work.
kurteye at 10:18PM on 08/07/08
I have had mixed experiences at celebrity chef connected restaurants, so bottom line, it's like anyplace else. Give it a try, and if you're not pleased, don't return. The problem is when people are willing to overpraise mediocre food just because it comes with a famous name attached.
On a related issue, I have gone to well-reviewed local restaurants, had disappointing meals, and then been told by staff, "oh, our regular chef is off tonight." Maybe restautants should have to post signs in the windows, like theaters do when the lead part is being played by an understudy. Or else, if they know an inferior chef is cooking that night, lower the prices. Fat chance!
bluepiano at 10:25PM on 08/07/08
I view the head chef as the designer of the menu and the food on it. They need to develop the recipes.
They then need to ensure that those preparing the food are completely up-to-speed on everything to do. But, as someone previously said, Steve Jobs doesn't assemble your laptop.
If I go to a restaurant owned by Gordon Ramsay, I expect a completely different style, both in the cuisine and the atmosphere, from one run by Jamie Oliver. It is their styles and influence that I go to experience.
I can't afford the price to have either of these chefs to cook for me personally. So, I am happy with dishes designed and perfected by the celebrity chefs.
KuyasKitchen at 12:30AM on 08/08/08
These chefs have paid their dues... they built those restaurants. They are now business owners and just like any other successful business owner, they deserve to enjoy the fruits of their labor.
That does not mean they have to be a grunt in the weeds in the kitchen frying up cheeseburgers...
The author's logic is Flawed to begin with.
Kurteye's got the right idea...
ronzoni at 6:58AM on 08/08/08
For anyone who takes this point of view as valid, try a google of the author Jasper Gerard. It's clear from the history of his articles he makes a name for himself by negative spins on popular establishments including Premier League soccer, Elton John, and others.
He's nothing more than a negative hack (who apparently may have been sued and settled for libel while at the Observer). Take it for what it is and from the source...
BirdDoggie at 2:02PM on 08/08/08
If I go to a restaurant owned by a celebrity chef, I expect that the food will be in his style, the recipes either designed by him or at least in conjunction with him, and I expect that part of his reputation depends on the quality of the food produced by his restaurants.
I have certain expectations of a restaurant owned by a celebrity chef. But if I go to a restaurant owned by a different celebrity-- oh, like a basketball player -- I don't expect the basketball player to be in the kitchen, and I actually hope he isn't.
dbcurrie at 12:37AM on 08/09/08