Serious Eats City Guide Premiere: New York (How to Leave Here Pleasantly Full)
In every decent-sized city there are essential eating experiences, bites every serious eater should avail themselves of should he or she find themselves there. Here at Serious Eats we thought it would be fun to post guides to essential eating experiences in cities all over the world.
We're going to start with, what else, New York (hey, we live here) and move across the country and then the world. Over time our fellow bloggers, critics, food writers, cookbook authors, and serious eaters of all stripes are going to give us their take on the cities they have spent the most time in. We hope the Serious Eats community will also weigh in on the food of the cities they know and love. Before too long we'll have Serious Eats Guides to Deliciousness for every major food city in the world. Without further adieu, here's our guide to New York. Which of your favorites have we left out? Serious eaters want to know.
Best Pizza
Half artichoke, half plain pizza from Di Fara. Photograph from Adam "Slice" Kuban on Flickr
That's a tricky one. For purists, the Neapolitan style at Una Pizza Napolatana are hard to beat. Anthony Mangieri's individual pies are the lightest of airy pizza clouds, with a crispy exterior that represents pizza perfection. For elevated, classic New York slices, Di Fara in Brooklyn. Domenico DeMarco is the only person that's ever made pizza in his undistinguished storefront since it opened 44 years ago. For New Yawk coal fire brick oven pizza, Totonno's in Coney Island cannot be improved upon.
Una Pizza Napolatana: 349 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-477-9950. Di Fara: 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn NY 11230 (map); 718-258-1367. Totonno's: 1524 Neptune Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11224 (map); 718-372-8606.
Best Burger
This is a tough one, my friends, for New York is a burger lovers' paradise. For fancy pants burgers I like Telepan and the Union Square Cafe, and my most recent fave, Hundred Acres. For a mid-priced steakhouse burger I go to Peter Luger's (insist on it medium-rare even though they probably won't get it right the first time); for a classic burger I go to the Fairway Cafe or the Shake Shack. The fresh fries are way better at the Fairway Cafe than the as-good-as-can-be frozen french fries at Shake Shack.
Telepan: 72 West 69th Street, New York NY 10023 (map); 212-580-4300. Union Square Cafe: 21 East 16th Street, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-243-4020. Hundred Acres: 38 Macdougal Street, New York NY 10012 (map); 212-475-7500. Peter Luger's: 178 Broadway, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map); 718-387-7400. Fairway Cafe: 2127 Broadway, New York NY 10023 (map); 212-595-1888. Shake Shack: Madison Square Park, East 23rd Street and Madison Avenue, New York NY 10010 (map); 212-889-6600.
Best Ice Cream
Strawberry and mint chip gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Grom, Il Laboratorio del Gelato, and Otto for classic Italian low-air, low-fat gelato, Shake Shack for frozen custard, Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory for straight-ahead American ice cream. Have the peach in the summer.
Grom: 2165 Broadway, New York NY 10024 (map); 212-362-1837. Il Laboratorio del Gelato: 95 Orchard Street, New York NY 10002 (map); 212-343-9922. Otto: 1 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-995-9559. Shake Shack: Madison Square Park, East 23rd Street and Madison, New York NY 10010 (map); 212-889-6600. Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory: 2 Cadman Place West, Brooklyn NY 11201 (map); 718-246-3963.
Best Late-Night Eats
Blue Ribbon, where you should get the fried chicken. At Greater New York Noodletown, get the shrimp wonton soup and suckling pig.
Blue Ribbon Brasserie, 97 Sullivan Street, New York NY 10012 (map); 212-274-0404. Greater New York Noodletown: 28 Bowery, New York NY 10013 (map); 212-349-0923.
Best Bar Food
The Enoteca at Del Posto has great fried Italian bar snacks. The meatball sandwich at Gramercy Tavern is also excellent, and right around the corner from there is Il Struzzichini, where they know how to fry and grill with aplomb. In midtown I love the tarte flambe (Alsatian pizza with bacon) and the liverwurst at the Bar at the Modern.
Del Posto: 85 Tenth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map); 212-497-8090. Gramercy Tavern: 42 East 20th Street, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-477-0777. Il Struzzichini: 928 Broadway, New York City NY 10010 (map); 212-780-5100. Bar at The Modern: 9 West 53rd Street, New York NY 10019 (map); 212-333-1220.
Best "Date Night" Spot
A cheese flight from Casellula. Photograph by Ed Levine
At the tiny Casellula you'll find terrific sandwiches, small plates, and the best cheese and condiment pairings in New York, to go along with a smartly done set of wines by the glass. The lovely glow makes everyone look great as well—always important when it's date night.
Casellula: 401 West 52nd Street, New York NY 10019 (map); 212-247-8137
Best Japanese Food (Raw and Cooked)
Masa (I assume money is no object when it comes to sushi). Soto for cooked Japanese food. For ramen, Ippudo is a must, and a whole lot cheaper than Soto or Masa.
Masa: Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor, New York NY 10019 (map); 212-823-9800. Soto: 357 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10014 (map); 212-414-3088. Ippudo: 65 4th Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-388-0088
Best Cocktails
I'm not a big cocktails person, but the Flatiron Lounge seems to make serious ones, as does Pegu Club and For Employees Only.
Flatiron Lounge: 37 West 19th Street, New York NY 10011 (map); 212-727-7741. Pegu Club: 77 W Houston Street, New York NY 10014 (map); 212-473-7348. For Employees Only: 510 Hudson Street, New York NY 10014 (map); 212-242-3021
Best Market
Fairway facade. Photograph from Adam "Slice" Kuban on Flickr
I don't know that there is one single best food market in New York. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. Citarella, Eli's and Fairway all have a terrifc selection, but you have to know what you're looking for to make sure you're buying the best quality stuff. I also like the smaller, more personal markets like Blue Apron in Brooklyn. Of course the Union Square and Grand Army Plaza Greenmarkets are both terrific.
Citarella, Eli's, and Fairway: multiple locations. Blue Apron Fine Foods: 814 Union Street, Brooklyn NY 11215 (map); 718-230-3180. Union Square: 14th Street and Broadway (map); Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 8AM-6PM. Grand Army Plaza: Prospect Park West and Flatbush Ave (map): Sat 8AM-4PM.
Must Eat Before Leaving City
Shake Shack; Gray's Papaya.
Hot dog from Gray's Papaya, a slice of pizza from Di Fara, a burger from the Shake Shack.
Gray's Papaya: 402 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10014 (map); 212-260-3532. Di Fara: 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn NY 11230 (map); 718-258-1367. Shake Shack: Madison Square Park, East 23rd Street and Madison Avenue, New York NY 10010 (map); 212-889-6600.
Best Bagel
The mini bagels from Absolute Bagels—they have more crunch and less soft innards. Their minis are really close to the size bagels used to be.
Absolute Bagels: 2788 Broadway, New York NY 10025 (map); 212-932-2052.
Best Eating with a View
Porterhouse New York. Really good NY-style steakhouse where the chef-partner Michael Lomonaco is a serious cook, so the sides are just as good as the steak. The view is a bonus.
Porter House New York: 10 Columbus Circle, New York NY 10019 (map); 212-823-9500.
Best Chinese Food
Ma pa tofu with chili minced pork from Szechuan Gourmet. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Greater New York Noodletown for Cantonese food, Szechuan Gourmet for Sichuan food, Chinatown Brasserie for dim sum.
Greater New York Noodletown: 28 Bowery, New York NY 10013 (map); 212-349-0923. Szechuan Gourmet: 21 West 39th Street, New York NY 10018 (map); 212-921-0233. Chinatown Brasserie: 380 Lafayette Street, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-533-7000.
Best Old-School New York Landmark
Katz's Deli. Photographs from roboppy on Flickr
Russ and Daughters is my favorite only-in-New York spot for their smoked salmon and all kinds of old-school Jewish appetizers. Smoked fish of every variety is carefully selected by the Russ family for our serious eating pleasure. Right down the street, Katz's serves up a phenomenal hand-sliced pastrami sandwich. Avoid the lousy fries and cole slaw.
Russ and Daughters: 179 East Houston Street, New York NY 10002 (map); 212-475-4880. Katz's: 205 East Houston Street, New York NY 10002 (map); 212-254-2246.
Best Deli
There's no deli that does everything really well anymore. 2nd Ave. Deli for pastrami, french fries, and mushroom barley soup, Ben's Best for pastrami, Katz's (see above) for hot dogs, pastrami, and knoblewurst.
2nd Ave. Deli: 162 East 33rd Street, New York NY 10016 (map); 212-689-9000. Ben's Best: 96-40 Queens Boulevard, Rego Park NY 11374 (map); 718-897-1700. Katz's: 205 East Houston Street, New York NY 10002 (map); 212-254-2246.
Best Streetside Bargain Lunch
Gray's Papaya Recession Special or the barbecued pork banh mi sandwich at Paris Sandwich or the ribs over rice at Big Wong.
Gray's Papaya: 402 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10014 (map); 212-260-3532. Paris Sandwich: 113 Mott Street, New York NY 10013 (map); 212-226-7221. Big Wong: 67 Mott Street, New York NY 10013 (map); 212-964-0540.
Best Fancy-Pants Bargain Lunch
Pork dish from Jean-Georges. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Jean-Georges for the $14 a course lunch, plus you get the amouses. It's the regular menu.
Jean-Georges: 1 Central Park West, New York NY 10023 (map); 212-299-3900.
Best Brunch Without the Wait
Both Ouest and Telepan have great housemade bread baskets, good burgers, egg dishes a few more ambitious and unusual brunch entrees.
Ouest: 2315 Broadway, New York NY 10024 (map); 212-580-8700. Telepan: 72 West 69th Street, New York NY 10023 (map); 212-580-4300.
Best Bargain Italian Food
Cavatelli with broccoli rabe and sausage from Fiore. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Celeste on the Upper West Side, Bianca in the Village, Fiore in Williamsburg. Chef-owner Giancarlo Quaddalti provides value like no other great Italian cook in New York.
Celeste: 502 Amsterdam Avenue, New York NY 10024 (map); 212-874-4559. Bianca: 5 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10012 (map); 212-260-4666. Fiore: 284 Grand Street, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map); 718-782-8222.
Best Barbecue
Daisy May's barbecue food. Photograph from roboppy on Flickr
Barbecue is one of those things where each place in New York only does one or two things really well. Daisy May's whole roast suckling pig has to be ordered in advance, but the delicious short ribs are available every day. The Flintstonian beef ribs at Blue Smoke are a source of much gnawable pleasure, and the moist brisket at Hill Country is indeed a beautiful thing.
Daisy May's: 623 11th Avenue, New York NY 10036 (map); 212-977-1500. Blue Smoke: 116 East 27th Street, New York NY 10016 (map); 212-447-7733. Hill Country: 30 West 26th Street, New York NY 10010 (map); 212-255-4544.
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30 Comments:
Chinatown Brasserie for dim sum? Good lord why, when you're that close to chinatown? I went once with a big group and had a nice enough time but there was nothing exceptional about it (other than perhaps how exceptionally empty the dining room was that day...though that suited us fine with the big group we had). But far far better dim sum to be had a reasonably short walk away in Chinatown at numerous places. My personal favorite being the one whose name I rarely remember on Elizabeth St., just south of Canal, up the big elevator to a huge room that my husband likes to think reminds him of a massive Denny's for the Chinese (though more adequately compared to crashing a Chinese wedding). THAT is real dim sum. Not the sterile stuff at Chinatown Brasserie. Cheaper too :)
Nehna at 9:01AM on 08/28/08
Jing Fong is the dim sum spot I referred to btw...20 Elizabeth Street
Nehna at 9:04AM on 08/28/08
This is a neat idea, Ed. Have you considered publishing a full version it in a small, totable size, like that Not for Tourists book I see so often? I would totally carry one.
JustinH at 9:18AM on 08/28/08
This is terrific. I'm sure a zillion arguments can be made by a zillion people as with any list of this type, but for someone who's been to only a few of these spots, this is a treasure. Thanks!
pbelardo at 9:26AM on 08/28/08
Great list, and very thorough!
And for any out-of-towners really interested in visiting the aforementioned restaurants, some of them definitely deserve extra research. For example, if you've never heard of Masa and you think you might be willing to pay for expensive sushi? It's dinner only prix fixe and per person it's over $300 dollars.
Showing up to DiFara's for pizza on a Saturday around dinner time? Be prepared to wait.
foodinmouth at 9:39AM on 08/28/08
I love this, this is great! It's like New York eating for dummies, and I'm a dummy!
Laurel E at 9:48AM on 08/28/08
The dim sum at Chinatown Brasserie is the closest thing to modern day Hong Kong dim sum. Gum Fung is just a nasty mess of food to me.
dabestspooner at 10:22AM on 08/28/08
Gotta hand it you Ed, for a list of 20 places most people are gonna disagree with a handful of them, buts it pretty fair.
Late night Blue Ribbon for the fried chicken? It's really good but takes a back seat to the bone marrow!
BirdDoggie at 10:49AM on 08/28/08
@dabestspooner: I was under the impression that dim sum was a Cantonese speciality. Now, I realize that Hong Kong (Xianggang) was probably a part of Canton (Guangdong) pre-British hegemony, so what's going on?
@Ed Levine: I grew in NY Metro some time ago (I'm loath to admit), and I've eaten pizza all over the Greater NY Metropolitan Area. I don't recall Neapolitan style of pizza (Naples, not NYC) ever being "on the radar". Is this some sort of back-formation from the popularity of NY Neapolitan-style of pizza, that some curious chefs decided to go back to the source and import the style directly from Naples, say within the last 35 or so years?
Summerfield at 10:51AM on 08/28/08
Thanks for this, I will bring it October (for meals not covered at the Gourmet Institute). It's funny, in San Francisco we would have something like "quintessential California cuisine" but perhaps there is no category like that in NY?
cookingwithamy at 10:53AM on 08/28/08
I'm planning to visit New York in a couple weeks. The only question I have left is what to pack for dinner on travel day. I'm looking for something that can be stored in a cooler or at room temperature and be eaten at a highway rest stop. I was already thinking about a sandwich from Blue Ribbon Bakery but fried chicken sounds even better. Except. A mere month ago no less an authority than Ed Levine himself said the fried chicken sandwich at Blue Ribbon Bakery was consistently disappointing. So, is the fried chicken as fried chicken that much different from the fried chicken as a sandwich or has something changed dramatically in the last month?
stu_spivac at 11:12AM on 08/28/08
For best cocktails, you named some good places, but what about Death & Co. and PDT?
I could spend all day responding to your list; each item could be a separate post!
greenfield at 11:30AM on 08/28/08
@Summerfield: Neapolitan-style pizza, within the last 3 to 4 years, has been growing in popularity in NYC and throughout the U.S. It's still a small minority of the pizza market here in NYC, but Una Pizza Napoletana really put it on the map and on the radar of every "foodie" in the city.
Adam Kuban at 11:42AM on 08/28/08
For unsuspecting tourists, you might want to clarify that:
- Totonno's and Una Pizza are pies only. Totonno's pies can feed 2-3 people. Una Pizza's pies can feed 1-2.
- Most reputable pizza places don't do slices. Di Fara and Patsy's are notable exceptions. But non-New Yorkers often don't know this.
- Una Pizza is pricier than the others (possible out of towner sticker shock ahead) and there are no extra toppings per se (pepperoni, mushrooms, etc) and for the love of God don't ask him for BBQ chicken or anything.
- Totonno's has multiple locations but you only recommend the Coney Island one.
All of these are newbie mistakes that could easily be avoided and I hate to see pizza lovers turned away because they had different expectations.
I'm with greenfield on the cocktails. Flatiron is good but D&C and PDT are better, especially with Death & Co's new, expanded menu of 70+ cocktails. Tailor is also excellent but more on the avant garde side of things.
@cookingwithamy: Ed's list is pretty much "essential NY": pastrami on rye from Katz's, recession special at Gray's Papaya, smoked salmon at Russ & Daughters, bagels, pizza. The only other essential he left off was the egg cream.
kathrynyu at 12:02PM on 08/28/08
Also, lots of places known for late night dining in NY are open late only on weekend nights (Thursday through Saturday or Sunday). Here's a recent eGullet discussion on nicer, sit-down places who are open late Monday through Wednesday.
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=117680
kathrynyu at 12:07PM on 08/28/08
Great list! As a frequent visitor to NYC, I love adding the favorite SE places to my list of must-try places.
One thing I'd like to see in these city guides: best pick for single dining that isn't a cafe' or fast-food or counter service takeaway. I realize that the stigma of being a solo diner has lessened over the years, to where it's not such a big deal anymore, but I still occasionally find myself worrying and avoiding even not-so-swanky restaurants for fear I am going to get treated like the plague - especially in an unfamiliar city. Been burned a couple times I'm afraid, even though I tip generously and try not to arrive at prime-time dinner rush.
The Costuminatrix at 12:27PM on 08/28/08
I'm glad Ed still stands by Totonno's. I never understand when I hear talk that they have fallen off (something I've heard at various times over the last 10-15 years). In my experience they are one of the most consistent shops that turn out top quality pizza. It is, and probably always will be, my favorite overall pizza place anywhere.
sloppy at 12:38PM on 08/28/08
Ed you nailed it - as usual an earnest, informative, thorough post.
I couldn't agree more on Absolute Bagels, Blue Ribbon, and Totonno's.
I dislike Una Pizza Napolatana and would rank many other pies higher. To me UPN suffers from doing parts of its pizza TOO well. Pies there have a perfect crust, incredible cheese (I'm going to assume they justify the astronomical prices with the top-quality cheese), and great toppings - yet often, the flavor of the tomato sauce doesn't come through and create the glorious harmony of a true NYC pie.
Anyway, awesome list, I have a lot to try now.
z911empire at 1:35PM on 08/28/08
Masa is the type of place that if you can afford it you'd know about it and don't need a guide to point it out.
Feefiefoefum at 1:45PM on 08/28/08
The name of the cocktail bar you recommended is Employees Only. There's no "For" in the name.
JungMan at 2:48PM on 08/28/08
Under Barbecue, I agree with Ed that particular places are best for particular items. I would put RUB's burnt ends in the same category as his other "bests".
gustoct at 3:41PM on 08/28/08
Decent list but I have to disagree about the Chinese food in Manhattan. The Chinese food in Manhattan is pretty mediocre. If you want the good stuff you have to make a trek to Flushing.
Serious_Cynic at 7:54PM on 08/28/08
Yeah, the regular bagels at Absolute are huuuuuuuuuuuuuuge. But so tasty!
piccola at 9:43PM on 08/28/08
Where would you recommend the best steak to be had? I'm there for 2 nights and am eager to have a decent steak!
bklee at 4:26AM on 08/29/08
I really think that the best steakhouse experience can be had at Porter House New York: great view, serious prime, dry-aged steak, excellent
sides, and truly wonderful desserts. And you can usually get in, something you can't do on a moment's notice at Peter Luger's, unless you go for lunch.
As far as dim sum is concerned, the last meal I had at Jin Fong was less than mediocre. Joe Ng of Chinatown Brasserie is by far the best dim sum chef in NY. @stuspivak: The fried chicken at Blue Ribbon Brasserie is what I love, and I don't even think they sell it to go. You could either get a couple of sandwiches to go from Blue Ribbon Bakery or go to an Amy's Bread for a sandwich and a cookie. Or you could get a banh mi from either Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches or even some Chinese spare ribs from Big Wong. You will need a wet nap or two if you get the Big Wong spareribs. They are sticky, messy, and so delicious.
Ed Levine at 2:22PM on 08/29/08
Rethinking the Hamburger I would add the Lamb Burger at L'Express on PAS.
odaddyo at 5:08PM on 09/02/08
@Ed: when was the last time you tried dim sum in Flushing?
kathryn at 12:36AM on 09/13/08
I haven't had dim sum in flushing in years, kathryn. Where do you go in Flushing? I had lunch at Chinatown Brasserie yesterday. Phenomenal, and a great bargain for either the dim sum lunch or a lunch with four dumplings from a list of 8 or 10, and one stir-fry dish ($14). I know people are going to hate me for saying this, but Chinatown Brasserie is my favorite Chinese restaurant in New York these days. My bro had great Peking duck there yesterday for lunch.
Ed Levine at 5:13PM on 10/16/08
Perfect Team Corporation! Although I've heard good things about Ocean Jewels, Jade Asian, and Gala Manor.
http://www.chow.com/outer_boroughs_digest/4830
kathryn at 9:20PM on 10/16/08
@Ed: I think most New Yorkers might be over the Shake Shack burger - am I alone here? There is an amazing burger down in FiDi at a hotel bar - I would definitely add it to the list - at The Libertine..
carnirazzi at 7:55PM on 11/17/09