Snapshots from Italy: Sfoglia or Frolla?
From left: Frolla and sfoglia.
The conversation went something like this:
Friends: "We're going to Naples tomorrow."
Me: "Really?"
Friends: "Yes. Business. Do you want us to bring you back a sfogliatella?"
Me: "Of course. It is my favorite pastry, ever."
Friends: "Frolla or sfoglia?"
Me: "Both!"
Friends: "We knew you would say that."
When it comes to sfogliatella, this is an enduring and significant question among Neapolitans. Sfoglia, also known as riccia, refers to the shell-shaped version that most of us are familiar with, made with tissue-thin dough that is stretched and then rolled to create overlapping, irresistibly crisp layers. The frolla variation features soft, tender, flaky dough that literally melts in your mouth. Both pastries contain the same delicious filling, made from semolina, ricotta, sugar, cinnamon, eggs, and bits of candied citrus.
The history of the sfogliatella is also varied. Most accounts position its appearance around the early part of the 18th century; some credit the pastry's creation to nuns living in the convent of Santa Rosa, not far from the town of Amalfi. The inspiration has been debated, but my favorite passage says: "Only the patience and free time of women locked in convents could allow for such work, stretching strips of dough several meters long and only a millimeter thick...." Eventually, sfogliatella made its way from the virtuous, hardworking sisters to the royal court and city of Naples.
From left: The innards of sfoglia and frolla.
Sfoglia and frolla each have their own legion of fans, although it seems that the crisp sfoglia has an edge in the competition, myself included. I'm a sucker for those shattering, delicate layers with just the right amount of chewiness. I don't know why the frolla version never really made it over to the States, but it is growing on me, the softness of the dough complements the texture of the filling nicely. Two of the most historic and best places to hold your own frolla vs. sfoglia taste test are at Pasticceria Fratelli Attanasio and Pasticceria Carraturo; both are located around Naples' central train station, an area that Neapolitans believe has the perfect atmospheric conditions to make the best sfogliatelle. Mine had to travel by a Eurostar train this time, but I recommend you try them warm and fresh from the oven.
Naples is facing some serious problems right now. A protracted garbage crisis; feckless, ineffective politicians; and the evils of organized crime are presenting significant challenges to this fascinating and culturally rich Italian city. But Naples perseveres as it always has, and the sfogliatelle are still pulled from the ovens every 15 minutes.
Pasticceria Fratelli Attanasio
Vico Ferrovia 1/2/3/4, Naples
Pasticceria Carraturo
via Garibaldi 59, Naples
About the author: Gina DePalma is the pastry chef at Mario Batali's Babbo restaurant in New York City and the author of Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen. She is currently in Rome doing research for her next book and further exploring her passions for Italian food.
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15 Comments:
I've never had the soft version but love the crisp one. My inlaws sometimes refer to them as lobster tails.
bobbob at 8:41AM on 06/03/08
Reminds me of the days of my youth in the North End of Boston.
I LOVE Lobster Tails! We used to go to only ONE place for them: Mike's Pastry. The pastry was so crispy, and the Lobster Tail Cream was so perfect. (I'm swooning just thinking about it.............)
Brownie at 8:54AM on 06/03/08
Just what I need. Another yummy type of sfogliatella. My dad is from Naples (Italy, not Florida) and I've never heard of the frolla variety. I guess someone had to come up with a quicker way to encase that yummy filling (vs. the zillion layered version).
chiff0nade at 9:38AM on 06/03/08
I hope to have a conversation like that someday.
I've tried sfogliatella a few times, but have yet to find one I really like, even though it seems like the perfect equation for deliciousness. :( Now I know I need to get myself to Naples!
roboppy at 9:58AM on 06/03/08
This reminds me that there's at least one place in NYC that makes an amazing sfogliatella... out on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, methinks? A business associate brought some to a meeting and they were wondrous. I must track them down...
missginsu at 12:25PM on 06/03/08
You had me until the citron. YUK!
jackiecat at 7:32PM on 06/03/08
I am a longtime fan of these.
These are the best places I've found for sfogliatelle:
Pasticceria Bruno
506 Laguardia Pl
New York, NY 10012-2591
Pasticceria Natalina
5406 N. Clark
Chicago, IL 60640
fleurdesel at 10:53PM on 06/03/08
Sfogliatelle! Brings back memories of my wonderful trip to Napoli :-) I was told there that the best place to try sfogliatelle is at a place called "Scaturchio", in front of Piazza San Domenico.
It's really a shame that the city keeps having these garbage crisis...I thought it was a beautiful place, really a pity that these garbage issues keep coming back.
MariannaF at 9:20AM on 06/04/08
You cannot compare a lobster tail to a sfogliatella. Lobster tail filling is cream, almost cloying. A well-made sfogliatella is light and with a copy of espresso, perfection!
mariacee at 9:36AM on 06/04/08
I love sfogliatelle! The best place to buy them in Montreal is:
Pâtisserie Alati-Caserta
277 Rue Dante, Montreal, QC H2S 1K3
(514) 277 5860
I have great childhood memories of going to buy sfogliatelle at Pâtisserie Alati-Caserta with my parents right after church (which is located across the street) every Sunday. I won't buy them anywhere else!
Liliana at 7:40PM on 06/04/08
Oh man, sfogliatelle are my favorite pastries in the world as well. I've never had a good one in the United States, though. :(
arianell at 12:26AM on 06/08/08
Now THAT'S what i'm talkin about.
Half the reason I had to buy your book!
Can't wait for the next entry...especially if it's more sweets.
dj_evol_eno at 4:26PM on 06/23/08
Sorry, mariacee, but I must correct you seeing as you not only show your ignorance, but choose to pass it on to others via this blog. Lobster tail pastry is the sfogliatella dough which simply has the filling omitted, allowing it to change shape by elongating in the oven. I will give you this much, though - in the United States and other places outside of Italy it CAN be cloying (overly sweet,) but that you should not to blame on the pastry, but rather on the American mentality that cheaper is better! Ethnic sweets in the U.S. are almost always sweeter than in their original countries because sugar is cheap and takes up space. Buy yourself a coda d'aragosta (lobster tail) in Italy and I'll bet you're surprised to see it would probably offered to you completely hollow - just dusted in powdered sugar - but sooo flavorfull and not too sweet. Even when it DOES come filled with cream over there its not too sweet because that is not the standard and the people would reject it. Context is everything - and being well educated on the topic about which you write doesn't hurt either.
Vincenza at 11:04AM on 09/02/08
I wish I could find sfoglia here in the US as good at those at Pasticceria Carraturo! My husband and I stayed in Napoli for a week this spring and our hotel, Hotel Casanova, was directly across from Carraturo. We got delicious, warm sfoglia and cappucinos there every morning. Best breakfast ever!
PDXFish at 10:23PM on 12/23/08
Never found a decent Sfogliatelle where we live. A few years ago we became so desparate we learned to make them. Found a recipe in Nick Maglieri's dessert book. Have been making them a few times a year ever since. They are a labor of love as they take at least two days and each time I have to re-learn the shaping. They are not easy. One bakery here did make them but you had to catch them just as they were taken from the oven as they stored them in refrigerated cases which made them tough and soggy at the same time. Of course in the North End of Boston they never seem to be refrigerated, selling out in a few hours and without the American hysteria about spoilage.
aajay at 2:37PM on 08/15/09